Subject: Re: Myford ML-7 Lathe info Urgently Needed

From: [email-masked] (Peter Brooks)
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 1995 22:43:23 GMT

I've an article in an old (pre-color) copy of Fine Woodworking about a
woodturner who uses a standard metal-turning lathe.  Unless one turned
green wood, there should be no trouble with rust.  Grit could be a
problem with abrasive woods, such as teak or particle board, for that
matter.

Pete Brooks

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From: [email-masked] (John Darlington)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 02:07:30 GMT

In a previous posting, Reg Barron ([email-masked]) writes:
>>   . I have picked up>  the UNIMAT DB-200 to see if I can do what I want to do 
> (mainly turn some wood>  pens & pencils, which I may not be able to do because 
> of the clearance between>  centers, unless I want to turn each half separately, then 
> I will take it back>  & try to sell it to a metalworker/modelmaker).>  
>> >  Regards,
>>  JD 
>>  
>>>>>
> I understand that Blue Ridge Machinery sells extended (extra long) way bars, so 
> you may be able to replace the original ones and have enough 
> distance between centers to do pencils etc.   However, the original Unimat
> has a distance between centers of just under 7".   The mechincal pens & pencil in 
> my pocket are about 6".  So you may still be O.K.
>
>  Reg Barron
 
Reg,
	Thanks for the info on Blue Ridge you sent via e-mail. You are right
about the between centers being 6 & 9/10". The mandrel sold at Lee Valley is
set up so that you but a bushing on it, followed by a piece of wood for the 
lower section of pen, followed by the middle bushing, then the wood piece for
the upper pen section, and then the last bushing. Facing the lathe, the left 
(plain) end of the mandrel is secured in a Morse Taper which has been put in
the headstock and the right end of the mandrel (which is threaded and has a 
washer & nut to snug up against one of the end bushings & has a bit of a 
hollow end) is held lightly by a dead center.

On the Unimat DB-200, everything is the same except there is no Morse Taper so
the mandrel is held in the headstock by a drill chuck. Consequently, there is
not enough clearance for all those pieces. What I had to do was cut off a piece
of the mandrel (plain end) and I can only turn one half of the pen/pencil at
one time. 

I am sure this sounds very primitive to all you expert turners out there, but
after not being within shouting distance of a lathe since 1960, at 5:00 PM
Eastern Daylight Time yesterday, I had turned the top and bottom parts for a
ball-point pen out of a wood called Mopane. What with supper and 60 Minutes,
etc. I didn't get it assembled until about 12:00 midnight, but I was quite
pleased with myself.

Will I keep the Unimat DB-200?                       I'm not sure yet.
Will I call Blue Ridge about extension bars?         You bet!
Did I like turning that project?                     Absolutely.
Do I have any concerns?     			     Yes. I think that if
                                                     I'm going to add these
                                                     items to my craft shows,
                                                     I have to turn both parts
                                                     at the same time to make
                                                     it worthwhile.
Regards,
JD

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From: [email-masked] (John Darlington)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 02:07:30 GMT

Reg,