Subject: Re: Brass pipe soldering

From: [email-masked] (Jon Gellman)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 04:55:38 GMT

>> In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] (Stig
>Opdoehl) writes:
>
>> |> ...
>
>> |> On top of this double
>> |> pipe assembly a third pipe must be soldered vertically to the top pipe
>9barrel). how can > |> this third pipe de soldered on without the heat un
>soldering the first pipe assembly > |> (barrel/body)?

A way is to buy jewelers silver solder, which comes in at least 3 melting points, called
"soft, medium and hard". By using the hard first, you can then go down a grade and
 your first joint won't melt. You can assure not passing the melting point by placing
pieces of solder at the joints before, rather than touching it to the hot metal after, heating.

Jon Gellman		My computer is an old testament god,
[email-masked]		lots of rules and no mercy-Joseph Campell

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From: [email-masked] (Lawrence Boul)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 08:36:53

>    I don't know if this will work or not, but on small pieces of jewelry, I
>use yellow ochre(sp) on the previous solder to keep it from un-soldering.

>Hope this helps

>Carl Sutton

Carl,

What exactly is yellow ochre? - I know its a paint pigment but I guess you are 
not using watercolours.  How does it work.  I do a lot of scratchbuilding of 
models in brass, which is not unlike jewellery.  Your tip could be handy if I 
had more info.

Lawrence :-{

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From: [email-masked] (Jon Gellman)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 04:55:38 GMT

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From: [email-masked] (Lawrence Boul)
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 08:36:53

Carl,

Lawrence :-{

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From: [email-masked] (Carl Sutton)
Date: 10 Apr 1995 01:31:22 GMT

Hope this helps

Carl Sutton