From VBTM10A@prodigy.com Sun Mar 26 11:49:44 EST 1995
Article: 10135 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!prodigy.com!usenet
From: VBTM10A@prodigy.com (Dennis Wodtli)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MAXIMAT 7 MACHINING CENTER
Date: 4 Mar 1995 02:55:59 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 20
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3j8krv$a8m@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: inugap3.news.prodigy.com
X-Newsreader: Version 1.2

I have an opportunity to buy a Emco Maximat 7
machining center.  This unit is similar to the
Maximat Super 11.  It has flat ways, gearhead, 2
speed motor, and gearhead mill.  A local dealer
thinks they quit making it about 10 years ago, and
he thinks they still make parts for it.  It has a
7" swing and 18" between centers.
Does anyone know anything about this unit?  Is it
good, when did they quit making it and is it worth
$2000?  It runs but has a piece broken out of the
hub on the chuck that has been brazed back on.
There is a parts list with the unit but no
operators manual or threading chart.

Thanks in advance for any comments.

PS: Would this be better than a Grizzly 8X18 or Jet 920?





From gmayner@access3.digex.net Sun Mar 26 11:49:45 EST 1995
Article: 10580 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!news.pop.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news1.digex.net!news3.digex.net!digex.net!not-for-mail
From: gmayner@access3.digex.net (G. Mayner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Can someone here make a wheel for a bandsaw?
Date: 20 Mar 1995 23:46:57 -0500
Organization: Don't you wish you knew?
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <3kllo1$kf0@access3.digex.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: access3.digex.net

I am trying to find someone to make a part for a very old bandsaw.  It 
has been in my family for decades so I don't want to throw it away.  
Parts are unavailable as far as I know.

What I need is a plate 10 inches in diameter 1/4 in thick with a rim on 
the outer perimeter 3/4 in wide. The center of the plate has a hub about 
1 1/4 diameter with a 1 in diameter hole in the middle.   If anyone is 
familiar with the wheels over which the band on a bandsaw rides you will 
understand what I mean.

I have contacted some local machine shops but none will have anything to 
do with such a small job.  (Maybe I need to open a small custom machine 
shop?)  :-))

I would appreciate any suggestions anyone might have.  Someone on 
rec.woodworking suggested I write a note here.

By the way, I certainly have no objection to paying someone to make the part.


Thanks!

Garry


From nanoka@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:49:46 EST 1995
Article: 10581 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: nanoka@aol.com (NaNoKa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need manual/info for Ammco 7" Shaper
Date: 20 Mar 1995 23:21:13 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 3
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3klk7p$ov8@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <xlch58D5HtKz.9ru@netcom.com>
Reply-To: nanoka@aol.com (NaNoKa)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

For shaper operations I would suggest Lindsay Book Publications. I have a
8'' shaper and used Lindsay to get a better understanding of all this
wonderful tool will do. Lindsay in listed in HSM and LIVE STEAM.


From rasta@cyberspace.com Sun Mar 26 11:49:48 EST 1995
Article: 10582 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cyberspace.com!cyberspace.com!not-for-mail
From: rasta@cyberspace.com (Taizan Matsudaira)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How to do: lost wax?
Date: 22 Mar 1995 04:48:34 -0800
Organization: C y b e r S p a c e - (206) 505-5577
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <3kp6b2$qnd@case.cyberspace.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: case.cyberspace.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

 
 I am looking for someone who knows how to or knows or a good book on the 
art of lost wax sculpting. I realize this is only SORT of metalworking, 
but as long as I'm at it... what's the melting point of bronze?


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sun Mar 26 11:49:49 EST 1995
Article: 10583 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk (Charles Lamont)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
Subject: Re: Forging a Froe
References: <D5ptI3.A41@dorsai.org>
Organization: None
Reply-To: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  13
X-Posting-Host: abdab.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 07:03:01 +0000
Message-ID: <801902550wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk

I am probably going to regret this, but what is a froe anyway? 

And while I am at it, a much more difficult question.  Why do I find 
the look and sound of the word, irrespective of its meaning, so 
peculiarly unpleasant?  I find it a sort of teeth on edge, finger-nails 
on slate kind of word.  It just looks wrong somehow.  Am I alone in 
this?  Will I be happier about it when I know what it means?

--
Charles Lamont




From nanoka@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:49:50 EST 1995
Article: 10584 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: nanoka@aol.com (NaNoKa)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wanted: Shaper vise
Date: 20 Mar 1995 23:40:21 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 1
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3kllbl$p9v@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: nanoka@aol.com (NaNoKa)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I am looking for a shaper vise for a 7'' table with 4''  T slot centers.


From sharris@pacificrim.net Sun Mar 26 11:49:51 EST 1995
Article: 10585 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.tamu.edu!baja.pacificrim.net!news
From: "Steven F. Harris" <sharris@pacificrim.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: George Barrett' s lathe and book
Date: 22 Mar 1995 00:25:24 GMT
Organization: Pacific Rim Network, Inc.
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <3knqpk$sbi@baja.pacificrim.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp5.pacificrim.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
X-URL: news:rec.crafts.metalworking

I=D5d like to hear from anyone who has experience with George Barrett=D5s 
lathe as described in his book =D2The Master Mechanics=D5 Manual Vol. 2=D3.  I 
wrote to him and got a small bit of info, but no price list for the 
mentioned castings.  Has anyone completed this project (at what cost and 
time)?  Does anybody have a used copy of the book that they would like 
to sell?  Is the =D2Baldrive=D3 hydrostatic drive system a good choice and 
have any other manufacturers used this system in their machines?




From jcraighead@mayo.edu Sun Mar 26 11:49:54 EST 1995
Article: 10586 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!dawn.mmm.com!newsdist.tc.umn.edu!mayonews.mayo.edu!usenet
From: jcraighead@mayo.edu (Jim Craighead)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hi-Freq module for mobile TIG
Date: 22 Mar 1995 13:21:03 GMT
Organization: mayo.edu
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <3kp87v$h9s@fermat.mayo.edu>
References: <3khnqn$46e@panix.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jrc01.mayo.edu
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.3

In article <3khnqn$46e@panix.com>, danw@panix.com (Dan Wold) says:
>
>Greetings,
>
>I'd like to put together a hi-frequency attachment for my portable welder.
>The welder is a 2-cylinder gas-engine driven capable of 225 amps AC output.
>DC output is 200 amps max. I believe the open circuit voltage is around 50v
>and the welding voltage around 25v. There is an aux 125v @30 amp AC outlet.

 I am also interested in any info on high frequency exciters. If someone 
could post the frequency used for this purpose, I would be happy to post a
schematic for a high power oscillator. Using brute force, it should be 
pretty simple to make a transformer to couple the HF to the welder's main 
output.
 I have found texts that explain how to weld, but I have not found any
that explain the theory behind the technology.

Jim Craighead
Development Electronics
Mayo Clinic


From jcraighead@mayo.edu Sun Mar 26 11:49:55 EST 1995
Article: 10587 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!interactive.net!winternet.com!news2.mr.net!mr.net!dawn.mmm.com!newsdist.tc.umn.edu!mayonews.mayo.edu!usenet
From: jcraighead@mayo.edu (Jim Craighead)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cutting sheet metal (mild steel)
Date: 20 Mar 1995 12:47:23 GMT
Organization: mayo.edu
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <3kjtgr$ga1@fermat.mayo.edu>
References: <3k8565$57c@Kaos.deepcove.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jrc01.mayo.edu
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.3

In article <3k8565$57c@Kaos.deepcove.com>, chrsgson@deepcove.com (Chris Youngson) says:
>
>
>Can anyone help me with a problem I'm working on? I would like to know if 
>it would be feasible to cut sheet metal with a common woodworking router? 
>If so what sort of cutter could I grind or buy? I was thinking of 
>something like a simple 1/8" straight-fluted mill. Any suggestions or 
>comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanx, 73 DE VE7CST
>

 A router will turn too fast. Since most hand tools use a "universal" type
of motor, you could use a lamp dimmer (check the current rating on your
router and on the dimmer) to control the speed of the router. I would use
a carbide bit.

Jim Craighead
Development Electronics
Mayo Clinic


From brnzcaster@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:49:59 EST 1995
Article: 10588 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: brnzcaster@aol.com (BrnzCaster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: RE: First try at casting
Date: 21 Mar 1995 02:36:01 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 44
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3klvl1$rom@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: brnzcaster@aol.com (BrnzCaster)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

>>
Hello,
  I finally got everything together for my first try at casting this
weekend.  A friend and I where trying to cast a replacement for a
decorative cast iron piece that was part of a door bolt.  The piece is
a half cylendar with decorative groves and patterns on the outside.  All
of the patterns, are beveled so that (I thought) they could be pulled out
of a sand mold ok.  We where casting the replacement in aluminum.

  The problem that we had, was that the sand (petra-bond) would always
stick to the cast iron original when we tried to pull it out.  We tried
coating the cast iron piece with talc, paste wax, and finally with a high
gloss paint.  We got the best results with after we had painted the piece,
but it still had sand stuck to it in several places.

  What where we doing wrong?  Is there something that we should use to
coat the cast iron piece?  Was talc the correct thing to use as a parting
compound between the two halves of the box?

Thanks.

-- 
David Hoopes                              Exabyte Corp.
david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
Voice: (913) 492-6002 x3323               Lenexa, Ks  66214        

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: david@tallgrass.com (David Hoopes)
Subject: First try at casting
<<

David:
I use ARIDRY J-82MX casting sand, basically the same as the PetroBond you
are using. Assuming your pattern has no undercuts/lock-angles, is fairly
smooth and dry, try using common CORN STARCH as your parting compound.
I've used corn starch for years ... like it better than commercial parting
when using oil bonded sand.
Winston


-------------------------------------
Winston W. Harness
Metal Casting Services
73754.3177@compuserve.com / brnzcaster@aol.com


From darylb@bnr.ca Sun Mar 26 11:50:00 EST 1995
Article: 10589 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!NewsWatcher!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (Daryl Bender)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: UV Light source for Photoresist
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 13:01:19 -0500
Organization: bnr
Lines: 27
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <darylb-210395130120@47.8.3.84>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

I thought I'd post this (originally email) in case anybody else might find
it useful. It is what I have used for photochemical etching of brass. It is
the only source I've tried so I have no comparisons but it seemed to work
well. My exposure was 6min at 2ft using KPR photoresist (I think it's a
Kodak product).

The florescent tube is a Phillip's TL40W/09N (Made in Holland), they are
used as sun-tan lamps.

I use a standard 2 bulb 4ft florescent fixture to hold them. They told me
when I got them that I would need a heavy duty ballast to fire them up.
Since I was starting from zero I got the ballast (it was $60.00 about 7
years ago). The ballast is;

Phillips, RC-2S85-TPC. High Power Factor Rapid Start, 120V 60Hz 1.65A. It
is about 10.5"L x 3"W x 2.6"D.

I never bothered to find out if the ballast is nescesary. If you go this
route and have a fixture you might get the bulbs and try them out. If they
don't fire up then the working ballast is listed above. You should be able
to get all this at a place that specializes in commercial lighting. 

Cheers
Daryl                                                                      
                                                      
-- 
Working, but not speaking for BNR.


From robc@boi.hp.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:01 EST 1995
Article: 10590 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!nntp-ucb.barrnet.net!netsys.com!nntp-sc.barrnet.net!sony!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hpax!news1.boi.hp.com!robc
From: robc@boi.hp.com (Rob Cummings)
Subject: Steam Engine Wanted
Sender: news@boi.hp.com (Boise Site News Server)
Message-ID: <D5uCwv.2yv@boi.hp.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 12:19:42 GMT
Nntp-Posting-Host: hpbs4550.boi.hp.com
Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.9]
Lines: 8


Does anyone out there have a small steam engine they would like to sell.
I would like to find about a 5-10 hp engine to tinker with and possibly
run a air compresser, generator, well pump, etc. E-mail to robc@hpbs4550
.boi.hp.com
Thanks a bunch
Rob C



From billg63475@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:02 EST 1995
Article: 10591 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: How Do I Make A Tiny Live Center?
Date: 20 Mar 1995 23:15:54 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 6
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3kljtq$os0@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3kkpha$jon@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>
Reply-To: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

You might look at a Sherline products live center and duplicate it!
What are you going to hold the live center with?

The # at Sherline is 1-800-541-0735

Bill


From grantz5906@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:03 EST 1995
Article: 10592 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: grantz5906@aol.com (GrantZ5906)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Eisemann Magneto Co.
Date: 22 Mar 1995 09:46:48 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 6
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3kpd8o$huf@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <thompson.228.2F6F1D7D@psy.fsu.edu>
Reply-To: grantz5906@aol.com (GrantZ5906)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

These magnetos are still in use on many aircraft engines.  If the one you
have is similar you may be able to find parts from aviation suppliers.  If
you can get a copy of Trade-A-Plane just call those folks who deal in
magneto parts.  This magazine should be available at you local airport. 
Hope this helps.  Let me know .
Grant Ziebell


From johnf118@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:05 EST 1995
Article: 10593 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: johnf118@aol.com (JohnF118)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Need help on doing a NC retrofit to a SHE
Date: 21 Mar 1995 00:24:29 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 13
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3klnud$q2h@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <jay_d.17.00263D85@rmii.com>
Reply-To: johnf118@aol.com (JohnF118)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

     Just finished this conversion on my Sherline mill and love the
results.  I bought the electronics in kit form from a place called
Camtronics Inc., 18230 130th Pl. NE, Bothell, WA 98011.  Cost was around
$175.  Assembly was easy and the instructions were step by step.  
     I had the Dancam software, and did'nt like it at all.  I bought a
program from a place in Georgia called Minitech.  That cost about $250,
but works real nice.  It uses standard G-code files so programming is real
easy.
     I made all of the mounting hardware for the motors, and the limit
switches.  This was fairly easy to do and it saved a bundle.


JohnF118@aol.com


From jpfitz@delphi.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:06 EST 1995
Article: 10594 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: John Fitzpatrick <jpfitz@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal Patina Formulas
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 95 22:10:56 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <5+25WZo.jpfitz@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1d.delphi.com

 
I am looking for any and all formulas for my girlfriend who is going to school
for metals. Thanks in advance. Please e-mail your suggestions.
 
-Fitz
 


From darrell.markewitz@ambassador.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:07 EST 1995
Article: 10595 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!hookup!noc.tor.hookup.net!ambass!darrell.markewitz
From: darrell.markewitz@ambassador.com (Darrell Markewitz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: QUAD STATE info?
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 13:50:43 GMT
Message-ID: <9503221202461912@ambassador.com>
Organization: AMBASSADOR BOARD (519) 925-2642 HST/V.32bis
Distribution: world
Lines: 16        

Does anyone know waht weekend the 'Quad State Roundup' will be held this
year?

This is a regional blacksmiths conference that is held in Ohio every
year in September. May be either the weekend of 16 or 23.

I have a potental workshop one weekend or a craft show the other. i
guessed wrong last year and missed the conference (Damn!)

This conferance comes highly recomended, both in terms of content,
contacts and marketplace. i don't want to miss it again!!!!

Post me and let me know

Darrell
wareham.forge@ambassador.com


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:09 EST 1995
Article: 10596 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!olivea!decwrl!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and dies
Date: 22 Mar 1995 17:45:08 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <3kpnn4$196@news1.svc>
References: <1995Mar16.193446.25449@schbbs.mot.com> <3kmmq1$51q@crcnis3.unl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com

mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu (michael jensen) wrote:
 
The difference between a good general purpose tap and die and one specifically made for 
aluminum is moot when you are tapping by hand.

Michael,

After tapping with both types of tap into aluminum, I cannot agree 
with you.  An aluminum tap takes much less torque to drive, the
difference increases markedly with the size of the tapped hole.

1/4-20 is very noticable.  At 1/2 inch, the effect is startling.

Mike Rehmus



From thompson@psy.fsu.edu Sun Mar 26 11:50:10 EST 1995
Article: 10597 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!mailer.fsu.edu!ronpc.psy.fsu.edu!thompson
From: thompson@psy.fsu.edu (Ron Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Cut a way of valve
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 17:53:42 GMT
Organization: Psychology Dept., FSU
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <thompson.231.2F706425@psy.fsu.edu>
References: <D5tvz0.MB2@freenet.carleton.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ronpc.psy.fsu.edu

In article <D5tvz0.MB2@freenet.carleton.ca> aw955@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Robert Hoover) writes:

>I am working on doing a cut-a-way for a complex numatic valve.

>The nice thing is that the valve is a cylinder and all of its
>componets are on center. My problem lies in how to do the cuting

>so that the pieces in the valve will not fall out. I have thought
>about cutting the valve in half +.10 " so that I actually have
>some round edge to keep parts inside the valve. 

>Also There are several parts that I would like to cut in place BUT
>I am dealing weith several differnt metals. The main part of the
>valve is Stainless Steel with several parts of the internals being
>brass or sping steel. Would there be a problem cutting all these items
>at one time ?

>I would like to make sure I dont maul my only valve for this project
>by trying to mix cutting differnt materials.

>        Many Thanks

>        -R

I did a couple of diving requlators many years ago. The high preasure stage 
is similar to your valve I would think. I disassembled the thing and cut the 
body (plated brass) first, with a hack saw and then filed the cut surfaces 
smooth. You are right, you need to remove a pie shaped section and leave 
enough material around moving parts to lock them in. I left all of the 
internal parts uncut. If parts can turn or flex while cutting I would take 
them out and do them separately.

Ron 



Ron Thompson                      |     Internet:  thompson@psy.fsu.edu
Psychology Dept.                  |     Voice:     904-644-5563
Florida State University          |     FAX:       904-644-7739
Tallahassee,  FL 32306-1051       |     Amateur Radio N4FHO


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:11 EST 1995
Article: 10598 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!decwrl!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WANTED: How to WELD CAST IRON
Date: 22 Mar 1995 17:48:51 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <3kpnu3$196@news1.svc>
References: <tkopeD5M563.A22@netcom.com> <3kdtjk$6gt@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <HOLLEN.95Mar21133101@peg.megatek.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com

The easiest and cheapest way to heat up a casting is to put it
in a barbque or a pit in the ground.  You certainly are not going
to hurt the casting with charcoal which you might with a torch if
you overconcentrate the heat.

mike



From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Sun Mar 26 11:50:12 EST 1995
Article: 10599 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: The Feel of Aluminium
Message-ID: <1995Mar22.173301.4078@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <1995Mar18.003318.26764@ampakzo.uucp> <3kl5rt$quq@news.service.uci.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 17:33:01 GMT
Lines: 31

dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu () writes:

>I have pondered the feel of aluminum a few times.  Have you ever noticed
>that aluminum looks very much like aluminum?  If it's polished or not
>on the rack, or under the bench, when you spy the stuff you instantly
>know that it is aluminum.  As a matter of fact I have wondered if you
>know that it is aluminum just before you see it.  It seems that way.  Now
>if you touch it it will go out of it's way to tell you that it is aluminum.
>To be precise it will go out of your way to tell you it is aluminum.  It
>seems to be exactly the correct weight to please the touch but too light
>to juggle spheres.  If it is cool when you pick it up, it will warm and if it
>is warm it will cool when you touch it, but the truth be known you can rarely
>ever touch it.

>It is a jesting miracle, a true heart of plaid on a black velvet pillow.

>Dave Parsons

Well now, the tale to tell...
A friend was moving so had to get rid of a *LOT* of old stock from
his garage.  He let it be known to all who cut metal that such was
the case.  I went over to see what was there and off to the side was
a couple of slabs of 5/8" aluminum.  All told, 13 lbs of the stuff.
We all agreend that it's aluminum.  Not good for much as sheet stock
(paint, holes drilled, dented, dinged), but should do fine for casting.
Bought it.  Brought it home.  Started to scrape some paint off.  The
scrapings didn't feel right.  Add heat and get BRIGHT WHITE BURN!
Yeah, I have 13 lbs of magnesium.
-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Sun Mar 26 11:50:13 EST 1995
Article: 10600 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: First try at casting
Message-ID: <1995Mar22.174539.4463@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Keywords: casting
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <D5qwCI.Lq6@tallgrass.com>
Distribution: usa
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 17:45:39 GMT
Lines: 51

david@tallgrass.com (David Hoopes) writes:



>Hello,
>  I finally got everything together for my first try at casting this
>weekend.  A friend and I where trying to cast a replacement for a
>decorative cast iron piece that was part of a door bolt.  The piece is
>a half cylendar with decorative groves and patterns on the outside.  All
>of the patterns, are beveled so that (I thought) they could be pulled out
>of a sand mold ok.  We where casting the replacement in aluminum.

>  The problem that we had, was that the sand (petra-bond) would always
>stick to the cast iron original when we tried to pull it out.  We tried
>coating the cast iron piece with talc, paste wax, and finally with a high
>gloss paint.  We got the best results with after we had painted the piece,
>but it still had sand stuck to it in several places.

>  What where we doing wrong?  Is there something that we should use to
>coat the cast iron piece?  Was talc the correct thing to use as a parting
>compound between the two halves of the box?

>Thanks.

>-- 
>David Hoopes                              Exabyte Corp.
>david@tallgrass.COM                       11100 W 82nd St.          
>Voice: (913) 492-6002 x3323               Lenexa, Ks  66214        

Parting dust is rather important in the process.  One of the old
time parting dusts was simply diatomaceous earth -- buy it in
25# sacks at pool supply houses.  Wear good dust masks, silicosis
is possible with prolonged exposure.  I've been told that corn
starch also works well.

How are you ramming up the pattern?  Are you using a false cope
or bedding in the drag?  If the part is exactly half, I'd do
a simple drag, set the piece in place, set my sprue and riser,
and dust.  Then pack the cope.  To dust the piece, I use an old
parts bag -- the weave is loose enough to allow the dust to fall
through in an even coating but just tight enough to keep everyting
in when I don't shake it.  I've been told that an old sock works
well, too.  You want to dust from about 18" above the part so you
get a fine even coat over the pattern.
Petrobond is a very forgiving sand so you can over pound or under
pound and still get a decent casting.  When you have the feel for
it, you get excellent castings.

-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From dale@calon.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:14 EST 1995
Article: 10601 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.ksu.ksu.edu!news.mid.net!news.mci.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!miwok!news.wco.com!dale
From: dale@calon.com (dale)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Penny Bronze
Date: 21 Mar 1995 19:31:49 GMT
Organization: California Online
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3kn9j5$jds@news.wco.com>
References: <3jich3$blr$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com> <3jlpe9$o7d$1@mhadf.production.compuserve.com> <3jtrkc$ctd@comet.magicnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: calon.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0]

Johnson Cauthen (cauthen@magicnet.net) wrote:
> >does anyone have a suggestion for a commonly 
> >available material that can be used to generate dark brown to 
> >black?

> I Don't know of a chemical in any local store that will produce a brown/black patina.
> Try these people: Bryant Labrotory Inc.  (510) 526-3141, They sell to the public 
> chemicals used in patination and even have recipes.

For small items, we used to put them in an oven at ~250 - 300 degrees for 
several hours and they will darken quite nicely.  Great for copper and it 
will work for bronzes but takes quite a bit longer.

--
     +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
Dale Tersey                              Computer Recycling Project
dale@calon.com	                    
Alameda, CA, USA   94501                             (510) 523-2858



From bellas@soldev.TTI.COM Sun Mar 26 11:50:15 EST 1995
Article: 10602 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!paris.ics.uci.edu!news.service.uci.edu!ttinews!soldev!bellas
From: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Subject: Re: Homemade Anvils
Message-ID: <1995Mar22.182436.18243@ttinews.tti.com>
Sender: usenet@ttinews.tti.com (Usenet Admin)
Nntp-Posting-Host: soldev.tti.com
Reply-To: bellas@soldev.TTI.COM (Pete Bellas)
Organization: Transaction Technology, Inc.
References: <3kjqn2$c80@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3ki82j$1jv@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 18:24:36 GMT
Lines: 31

While on the subject of homemade anvils I have a couple more questions.
I am contemplating making an anvil out of railroad track. The problem is
that a 18" piece of track only weighs ~70 lbs and the rail head is not 
very flat or large. So here is my idea. I will use three 18" sections
of track, two side by side right side up, with the third inverted so that
the flat bottom is my anvil surface. Then weld the entire assembly
together. This would give me a good size flat working surface and about
200 lbs of mass. Crude ascii drawing follows:

          _________
        _|___   ___|_
       (   ) \ / (   )
        \ /  | |  \ /
        | |  | |  | |
        | |  | |  | |
        | |  | |  | |
        | |  / \  | |
     ___/ \_(___)_/ \___
    |_________|_________|
      

Questions, is railroad track heat treated at all? If not is there any way
for me to heat treat it, should I just do the section that is going to be
my top? Or is it just a bad idea. Thanks.

			-Pete-

* Pete Bellas                   "Cogito ergo spud"                         *
* Citicorp/TTI                       I think therefore I yam.              *
* Santa Monica, CA                                                         *
* bellas@gamma.tti.com                                                     *


From Latcecil@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:16 EST 1995
Article: 10603 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: Latcecil@ix.netcom.com (Cecil Dobbs)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FolkArt & Craft Exchange(tm)
Date: 21 Mar 1995 19:14:21 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 37
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3kn8id$ce@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-sj27-24.ix.netcom.com

If you are a folk artist or craft person (or if you know one) who wishes 
to explore new ways to exhibit and/or sell your art, please read on.

Latitude International(tm) is looking for folk-art and crafts made by 
indigenous and native people of the Americas.  Recently we established 
the FolkArt & Craft Exchange(tm) on the Internet's World Wide Web (WWW). 
Check us out: http://www.folkart.com

HOW EXHIBIT AND/OR SELL YOUR ART in FolkArt & Craft Exchange?

Step #1 	Tell us about your folkart or craft.  You may wish send 
us a picture.  Then we can mutually discuss how the FolkArt & Craft 
Exchange can be used by you to exhibit and/or sell your art.  

Step #2A 	If you decide to sell your art in the FolkArt & Craft 
Exchange then you must provide a written description (as you want it to 
appear) and a GOOD photo of the art in electronic format (we can help 
here if necessary). You determine the price.  Latitude places the art in 
FolkArt & Craft Exchange.  We receive a 20% commission ONLY if your art 
is sold.   You get the 80% !!

Step #2B	Exhibit Only your art. Often artists and collectors wish 
to share their art with the public but not wish to sell their art. The 
FolkArt & Craft Exchange has provisions to exhibit private collections 
at no cost to the artist or collector.

Again, if you know of hand-crafted products that are unusual and that 
you feel would do well on the internet, please contact us to explore the 
possibilities. email:  new-artist@folkart.com 

Cecil Dobbs, Jr.
Latitude International
1749 Killdeer Court
Sunnyvale, CA  94087
408.257.6461
408.255.7518



From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:18 EST 1995
Article: 10604 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!decwrl!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: West Valley Live Steamers' meeting 3/24/95
Date: 22 Mar 1995 18:42:05 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <3kpr1t$b3k@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com

The WVLS will hold its monthly meeting on Friday, March 24 at 7:30 PM at
the Stanford Linear Accelerator Center located at 2775 San Hill Road
in Menlo Park, California.

The subjects are:

Talk and project show on elaborate Erector Sets by Charles Palk and Philip Edwards.

Demo:

Drilling Square Holes . . . talk about a real thread here!

Best,

Mike Rehmus


From danw@panix.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:19 EST 1995
Article: 10605 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!pacifier!news.alpha.net!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!panix!not-for-mail
From: danw@panix.com (Dan Wold)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forging a Froe
Date: 21 Mar 1995 19:10:37 -0500
Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <3knptt$2dd@panix.com>
References: <D5ptI3.A41@dorsai.org> <801902550wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: panix.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Charles Lamont (Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk) wrote:
: I am probably going to regret this, but what is a froe anyway? 

: And while I am at it, a much more difficult question.  Why do I find 
: the look and sound of the word, irrespective of its meaning, so 
: peculiarly unpleasant?  I find it a sort of teeth on edge, finger-nails 
: on slate kind of word.  It just looks wrong somehow.  Am I alone in 
: this?  Will I be happier about it when I know what it means?

: --
: Charles Lamont

A froe is used for making shake shingles. It's like a long, flat wedge with
a handle attached. A froe could be made of flat bar measuring about 2"x1/4"
and 12-18" long. A piece of leaf-spring would be could. Weld a piece of pipe
to it to accept a wood handle.

Cut a log the length of the shingles you want. Put it on the ground and
pound the froe into it. Work the handle "TO and FRO" and split off your
shakes. 

-Dan

-- 
danw@panix.com
Daniel Wold                               239 City Island Ave,Bronx,NY,10464
finger danw@danw.dialup.access.net
Sysop: WORLD CITIZEN BBS  718-885-2346  14.4  24 hrs  FREE  Fidonet BahaiNet


From hollen@megatek.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:20 EST 1995
Article: 10606 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!megatek.megatek.com!hollen
From: hollen@megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WANTED: How to WELD CAST IRON
Date: 21 Mar 1995 13:31:06 -0800
Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California
Lines: 15
Sender: hollen@peg.megatek.com
Distribution: inet
Message-ID: <HOLLEN.95Mar21133101@peg.megatek.com>
References: <tkopeD5M563.A22@netcom.com> <3kdtjk$6gt@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
	<3kkai7$sl9@news.parc.xerox.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: peg.megatek.com
In-reply-to: richley@parc.xerox.com's message of 20 Mar 1995 16:29:59 GMT

>>>>> "Ed" == Ed Richley <richley@parc.xerox.com> writes:

Ed> Alternatively, there is (supposedly) a way to preheat the casting,
Ed> but I didn't have a large furnace.

I have heard (not done) that one can heat the casting to the proper
temp with a oxy/acetylene torch with a rosebud tip and then MIG weld
it.  Don't know any specifics.

dion


-- 
Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814     Email: hollen@megatek.com
Staff Software Engineer     Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Mar 26 11:50:21 EST 1995
Article: 10607 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!ub!csn!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: HSM articles in n parts
Message-ID: <1995Mar22.085345.9417@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 22 Mar 95 08:53:45 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <3ko9l2$ps6@saba.info.ucla.edu>
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming
Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
Lines: 27


In article <3ko9l2$ps6@saba.info.ucla.edu>, Flint Smith <flint@uclaue.mbi.ucla.edu> writes:
|>I just received my very first issue of Home Shop Machinist.
|>I was surprised to find that the articles have been divided
|>into a large number of portions.  Glancing through, I saw
|>a "part 6" and a "part 8".  At the rate of one issue each 
|>two months, these have been running for over a year!  This
|>seems excessive.

This is the main distinction between HSM and it's alter-ego, Projects
In Metal (PIM).  HSM often has multi-part projects, and PIM normally
has strictly one-part projects.  Also, PIM comes out in between the
HSM issues so it's not as long between "fixes".

|>I skimmed the "part 6" about making miniature C-clamps and it
|>seemed complete.  What was part 5, and how did it relate to 
|>part 6?  The "part 8" is definately a work in progress.

I don't have my issues handy; is the C-clamp one part of a series called
"Beginning Turning" or some such?  In this case, it's not a project but an
educational series.  The author felt that most HSM projects were fairly
advanced, and decided to do a series for beginners, starting with simple
operations such as turning.  So, while the series goes on and on, each
installment has been a complete project (so far!).  On the other hand,
the skeleton clock is an unusually long project, definitely advanced.

Jim


From yshan@bnr.ca Sun Mar 26 11:50:22 EST 1995
Article: 10608 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!corpgate!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bcarh8ab.bnr.ca!yshan
From: yshan@bnr.ca (Yogi Shan)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics,alt.engr.explosives,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.electronics,sci.materials,sci.engr,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.materials.ceramics
Subject: Thermal Lance (Update)
Followup-To: rec.pyrotechnics
Date: 21 Mar 1995 23:25:17 GMT
Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd.
Lines: 268
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3knn8t$7su@bcarh8ab.bnr.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcarh697.bnr.ca
Originator: yshan@bcarh697
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.pyrotechnics:26542 alt.engr.explosives:2574 rec.crafts.metalworking:10608 sci.electronics:108589 sci.materials:8894 sci.engr:13922 sci.materials.ceramics:461


As promised, here are the e-mails I received
on my request for information a little ways
back on the thermal lance/burning bar.

Thanks to those who were kind enough to 
respond or follow-up!


Yogi


****************************************************
In article <3i32ma$pgm@bcarh8ab.bnr.ca>, you write:
> 

<snip>

> Does anyone have any information on this interesting
> device?  Any published information sources or other
> references?  Anyone seen one in use.  What are they
> used for legitimately?

I wish I could provide concrete references, but unfortunately
exact titles slip my mind.  Good books on foundry practice
should have information on oxygen lances (I believe that this
may be a category of thermal lances in general).

(Oxygen lances are used to tap furnaces - or at least they used
to be.  I'm not sure how popular jet tappers have become)

> 
> The only thing I can guess is that the tube is Mg
> or an Mg/Al alloy, with either Mg or thermite as
> the filler.  However, thermite produces a temp.
> of 3000 C., which I wouldn't think would affect
> concrete.

I don't believe the tube material matters all that much.
I believe most oxygen lances are made of iron (which
is consumed during use).  When casting Al, etc., lances
made of the same material as is being cast may be used in
order to limit contamination.

The initial heat is provided with a torch (and the torch
is kept handy in case your fire goes out).  The reaction
between the metal and oxygen is usually self-sustaining.

As for burning through concrete, I believe that the glass
transition temperature for quartz is below 3000 C
(but I could be wrong).

Mark



I recall reading about these, but as I recall, the burning bar was just 
iron.  Not sure how you'd -start- one, but it should burn hot once 
ignited!  I think Mg or Al, though they might burn hotter, would also be 
consumed faster, and probably would tent to melt.



Thermal lances have a number of uses: everything from cutting
blocks of marble to penetrating safes. Yes, I am a locksmith, and
have read much of the legal (and illegal) use of burning bars to
penetrate containers.

The main bit of advice is: Don't use it. :-) The contents will
end up incinerated, most of the time. There have been certain measures
made in the security industry to prevent penetration of containers
through use of two factors: the first is the use of highly conductive
materials to wick the heat away from the burning point. The primary one
seems to be copper, although I suppose aluminum would now be cheaper,
as well as more efficient (although it melts at a much lower point.
Har har har har!).

The other one is plywood. Yup. Wood takes much longer to burn
through with a thermal lance than just about anything else. And, as anyone
who has ever operated one can tell you, the last thing someone has to
do when using a burning bar is think about "what's next?"- the bar burns
too fast! Magnesium... *sighs*. Wood charrs, then turns into a kind of
refractory material (akin to graphite, I would imagine) that becomes
difficult to blast away.

I suppose in theory a device could be made to thwart burning
bars quite readily: anything that emits liquid water. When burning metals
hit water, they form a hydroxide + hydrogen gas, which explodes. Heh.
SafeOwners' revenge, I figure. =-D

Anyway. I cannot point you towards references, as they are all
in kind of discrete locksmithing and vault books and periodicals. The
folks in alt.locksmithing might be able to help more; I do not have
my library at hand (grad school. Heh.).


How about posting a followup back to r.c.m. and the other
groups when it's about "resolved" ...

Focused 3000 C may not melt concrete but seems like it would expand it
enough to disintegrate it, perhaps explosively.



 I got one reference, the intro to 
The Oxy Acetylene Handbook (1960 edition) Union Carbide/Linde Divison

talking about the development of oxygen cutting equipment,
a  method developed for tapping blast furnaces was to
direct a jet of oxygen on to an iron plug.

continuing down the page, they mention the evolution from
oxygen jets in cutting with separate burners to an integrated
welding/cutting tourch 

later, in the chapter on cutting heavy sections, they
discuss the oygen lance  (using black iron pipe)
The key to this is the flow of oxygen, for many purposes
simply burning iron is good enough.
  In the pictures and discussion, they show use
in heavy scrapping (cutting 20 inch thick plate)
cutting in heavy casting, other steel mill operations,

I don't seem to have it, but have also read of its
use for demolition and on concrete... but this welding
book makes the point that it is for ferrous metals due 
to issues with oxide melting points and clearance.



yshan@bnr.ca (Yogi Shan) writes:
> 
> I remember reading when I was younger about
> thermal lances, aka "burning bars".  The device,
> consisting of a long metal tube, filled with some 
>... 
> Yogi

   Greetings!

 I have a set of encyclopedia titled "How it works: The Illustrated 
Science and Invention Encyclopedia" published by H.S. Stuttman and Co.
These date back to around '82 or so.  In volume 18, pg. 2397, They have a 
device known as a "Thermic Lance".  Now, these volumes were produced in 
England, and I'm told these devices are still in somewhat limited use 
over there...

Excerpt from above:

"The Principle on which most thermic lances operate is that when iron 
burns in a stream of pure oxygen a very hot, molten oxide is produced.  
This slag is used to melt concrete and metals and thus bore holes through 
them. 

The most common thermic lance consists of a long steel tube, 
commonly of 3/8 or 1/2 inch diameter, with one end open and an oxygen 
inlet at the other.  This tube is packed with iron core wire which 
provides the fuel for the lance. High pressure oxygen, at approx. 116-174 
psi is injected through the inlet and flows through the space between the 
core wire and the tube.

The lance tip is then held in a flame until the iron starts to 
oxidize in the oxygen stream, and then is put to the work.

They give examples of hot many holes need to be cut in order to 
slice through a certain sized wall, steel plate, etc.  A diagram is 
included, as well as some pictures, but I've given you most of the 
article. 

                                Hope this helps,


In article <3i32ma$pgm@bcarh8ab.bnr.ca>, you write:
|> 
|> 
|> I remember reading when I was younger about
|> thermal lances, aka "burning bars".  The device,
|>...

Hi,

Used them in Alunimium smelters and in a steel mill.
They aren't as exotic as you propose, the bar is a steel tube
usually about 1 in. O.D. with 7 steel wires inside (the
arrangement is a hexagon with a central wire). Normally you
start them with a natural gas/butane bottle and oxygen.
When the tip gets to bright red heat then you switch to 
oxygen only. The heat comes from burning the iron.

The temp of the flame is somewhere around 3000 C (from memory).
You are right that a burning bar will pretty much cut anything,
including concrete, refractories, etc.

I've used them to cut up outsized pieces of scrap Aluminium and
Steel. The disadavntage of them is that they are expensive to operate -
the oxygen consumption is very high and you only get about 5 to 10 minutes
burning out of a 5 meter bar.

The up side is that they are FUN to use - it's a real power
trip using one of these things.



Have seen your lance.It uses magnesium rods in a steel pipe(standard
water pipe).The oxygen is sent threw the pipe after you lite the mg.
           


Heard about similar thing many years ago. NAVY mechanics used it to burn 
through very thick plate. I believe it was jast a pipe feeding pure oxygen. 
It was not consumed itself. The plate was preheated with a torch. At that 
point pure oxygen was "blown" onto the surface. The steel itself was 
partially "burned", the rest was melted and flow away.

Could be I am totally wrong, but that is what I remember.


In article <3i32ma$pgm@bcarh8ab.bnr.ca>, you say:
>
>I remember reading when I was younger about
>thermal lances, aka "burning bars".  The device,

 Um ,I read a post posted to rec.pyro about a year ago about the 
 thermal lance ,apparently It's a hollow tube of magnesium about 
 6 or so feet long ,with an ordinary welding adapter at the end .
 it's screwed on to an oxygen tank ,and pure oxygen blasted through
 it. The tip of the lance is then ignited with a blowtorch ,and 
 starts merrily burning away at a pretty damn high temperature 
 which can slice through practically anything without a seconds 
 hesitation.
 The article I read also mentioned it slicing rather neatly through
 concrete blocks ,It's meant to be one of the uses It's put to.


Oxygen lances and burning bars are commonly used in the steel industry.

Oxygen lances, a steel (or stainless steel if you don't want the pipe
to be consumed) pipe through which oxygen is passed, work real good on hot
steel.  Once you light the pipe you can burn through any steel object
fairly quickly (with the exception of stainless of course).

Applications: opening ladles (when the default method doesn't work), opening
tapholes in furnaces when it gets plugged, burning off hot skulls off various
objects.

Burning bars are basically an oxygen lance with the pipe filled with Mg wire.
Here, you get some serious burning power.  You now do not have the safety net
of just being able to burn steel, you can burn holes through your refractory
as well.

We routinely use 1" and 1/2" diameter oxygen lances and 3/4" burning bars. 


Regarding your enquiry about thermal lances, i have seen them in 
operation for legitimate purposes.They are used in foundries and
metal casting operations for clearing pouring spouts. They are also
used for cutting large section ferrous or non ferrous metals that are
unsuitable for classical methods(saws, oxy cutting).They are 
particularly advantageous because they operate on non ferrous 
materials that are not usually able to be cut by the oxy acetylene
torches which rely on the rapid oxidation process eg steel. They 
rely on the heat of the reaction of the oxidation of the core to melt
the material.The disadvantage is the cut edge is untidy and the gases given off during the oxidation
of the Mg core wires are highly toxic.

More accurate information can be obtained from a welding materials
supplier eg Lincoln.



From eclipse@enet.net Sun Mar 26 11:50:23 EST 1995
Article: 10609 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!maple.enet.net!usenet
From: eclipse@enet.net (Gregory Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: square drill bit???
Date: 22 Mar 1995 23:46:10 GMT
Organization: Evergreen Communications
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <3kqcs2$jg@maple.enet.net>
References: <STUARTS.95Mar14160851@pickering.llan> <3k62vc$cab@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <1995Mar16.040840.5572@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <3k8lj3$6dg@news1.h <3k8u6s$4v6@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip36.enet.net
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.3
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:10609 rec.woodworking:69091


>In <3k8lj3$6dg@news1.halcyon.com> bobp@chinook.halcyon.com (Bob Powell) 
>writes: 
>
>>
>>
>>>>>A friend claims that there is a drill bit that can drill a square
>>>>>hole.  He can't explain how it works, he just keeps insisting that
>>>>>such a thing exists.  Is he completely wacky?
>>
>>While on this subject, what makes the hex-shaped holes in the
>>heads of an Allen-drive fastener?

For woodworking, the drill that cuts square holes is simply
a forstner bit mounted inside a square broach. The drill 
removes the bulk of the material and the broach is pushed 
through the hole behind the tip of the drill. The broach
is kept from rotating by a bar that clamps to the column
of the drill press. For metal you use a broach and an arbor
press and do it after you've drilled the pilot hole. 

*********************************************************
*Monuments in bricks and bone                           *                              
*                       Are built upon the words we own *
*********************************************************
*Your ideas are my own.                 eclipse@enet.net*                                       *
*********************************************************


From eclipse@enet.net Sun Mar 26 11:50:24 EST 1995
Article: 10610 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!maple.enet.net!usenet
From: eclipse@enet.net (Gregory Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Obituary
Date: 23 Mar 1995 00:01:23 GMT
Organization: Evergreen Communications
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <3kqdoj$jg@maple.enet.net>
References: <3karco$obs@crl3.crl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip36.enet.net
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.3

In article <3karco$obs@crl3.crl.com>, kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) says:
>
>Erich Thomson, owner and operator of the 15" gauge Redwood Valley 
>Railway, passed away on March 9, 1995 of a cerebral hemmorage.  Erich 
>
>JerryK
>Editor, GGLS "Callboy"


I'm sorry to hear this news! I now consider myself fortunate
to have met the man when I did. He was a most pleasant fellow
and one of the nicest met in my travels in California while
visiting live steam railroads 2 years ago. I really got a kick 
out of the scale bricks used in the construction of the engine
house at Tilden Park. 
Gregory Clark
MLS,RLS

*********************************************************
*Monuments in bricks and bone                           *                              
*                       Are built upon the words we own *
*********************************************************
*Your ideas are my own.                 eclipse@enet.net*                                       *
*********************************************************


From eclipse@enet.net Sun Mar 26 11:50:26 EST 1995
Article: 10611 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!maple.enet.net!usenet
From: eclipse@enet.net (Gregory Clark)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wanted: Steam Whistle Plans
Date: 23 Mar 1995 00:04:25 GMT
Organization: Evergreen Communications
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <3kqdu9$jg@maple.enet.net>
References: <3kcigr$gp0@baja.pacificrim.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip36.enet.net
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.3

In article <3kcigr$gp0@baja.pacificrim.net>, "Steven F. Harris" <sharris@pacificrim.net> says:
>
>Does anyone have plans for steam whistles such as advertised by Siskiyou 
>Manufacturing in Live Steam Mag?
>
>
I've got plans from Dick Bagley for the whistle he used to use.
*********************************************************
*Monuments in bricks and bone                           *                              
*                       Are built upon the words we own *
*********************************************************
*Your ideas are my own.                 eclipse@enet.net*                                       *
*********************************************************


From stauffer@htc.honeywell.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:27 EST 1995
Article: 10612 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!src.honeywell.com!not-for-mail
From: stauffer@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: UV sources
Date: 20 Mar 1995 08:28:48 CST
Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <3kk3f0$p31@moon.src.honeywell.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dons.htc.honeywell.com
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.91.4

If nothing else, sunlight will work.  For many resists it takes a few 
minutes, but it does work.  One needs to do a "test strip" (as the 
photographers say) to find the correct exposure.  Many home hobbyists do 
electronic PC boards that way.  Also, I have read reports of folks doing 
photo-etched brass that way.  Best to clamp negative to piece before 
carrying it outside, put it in box, uncover box when outside.


From gnell@crl.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:29 EST 1995
Article: 10613 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!nntp.crl.com!crl12.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: gnell@crl.com (Larry Cerutti)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: color code
Date: 20 Mar 1995 07:05:06 -0800
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <3kk5j2$e3r@crl12.crl.com>
References: <3hu92f$sau@martha.utk.edu> <D486JM.F0A@stortek.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl12.crl.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Mark McDade (303) 673-6841 (v040601@antares.stortek.com) wrote:
: breinig@utkvx.utk.edu wrote:
: : Breinig at ELECTRON.RMT.UTK.EDU

: : I have noticed color coded markings on the
: : ends of steel bar stock. What do these colors
: : represent? Does a standard system exist for 
: : identifing different types of steel?

: Yellow is O1 (oil hardening) for drill rod - don't know others.

: Mark McDade

: mark_mcdade@stortek.com

Hi Dave;

A standard system does exist to identify not only steel bars,but steel 
plate, tubing, stainless etc.

The code is too complicated to explain here,but any good reference book 
on metals should have it.

A couple of examples:
Carbon steel bars ;
black-M1010
yellow-M1044
green-1018, 1020

Hope this helps;

Larry Cerutti gnell@crl.com


From bill@tuson.SIE.Arizona.EDU Sun Mar 26 11:50:30 EST 1995
Article: 10614 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!noao!CS.Arizona.EDU!news.Arizona.EDU!tuson!bill
From: bill@tuson.SIE.Arizona.EDU (Bill Ganoe)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ticklevanian currency (was Re: The Feel of Aluminium)
Date: 21 Mar 1995 03:44:54 GMT
Organization: SIE Dept., University of Arizona, Tucson
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <3kli3m$18im@news.ccit.arizona.edu>
References: <3k7r2d$kvr@eplet.mira.net.au> <1995Mar18.003318.26764@ampakzo.uucp> <1995Mar20.062908.3543@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
NNTP-Posting-Host: tuson.sie.arizona.edu

In article <1995Mar20.062908.3543@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman) writes:
>bluejay@ampakzo.UUCP (Bluejay Adametz) writes:
>
>
>>In article <3k7r2d$kvr@eplet.mira.net.au>, kmurray@werple.mira.net.au   (Kevin Murray) writes...
   [snip]
>>---
>>In the exotic land of Ticklevania, the price of three souvenir
>>wristwatches is five Ticklevanian dollars and one pfennie (a
>>common coin not to be confused with our penny). However, one
>>souvenir wristwatch costs only one Ticklevanian dollar and five
>>pfennies.  Assuming that the Ticklevanians are good
>>mathematicians and fair in their business practices, what would
>>you expect to pay for two souvenir wristwatches if you visited
>>Ticklevania?? 
   [snip]
>Two Ticklevanian dollars, 10 pfennies.  The question is not how much
>you pay for two, rather what is the cost each if you buy 3?  It seems
>that either we have another coin, less than a fpenny or a dollar that
>has something other than 100 fpenny in it.
>-- 
>    - Barry Workman 

Looks to me like the Ticklevanian dollar is worth 3 2/3 pfennies.

-- 
Bill Ganoe -- U. of Arizona, SIE Dept **   Engineering:
bill@SIE.Arizona.EDU                  **      The ultimate art
520.621.2528                          **      of the human mind.


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:31 EST 1995
Article: 10615 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!decwrl!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: air compressor: quiet air supply
Date: 23 Mar 1995 01:34:06 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <3kqj6e$jmh@news1.svc>
References: <janecek-1503952118580001@janecek.tezcat.com> <D5J6wM.7LI@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <3ka1mt$khf@newsgate.sps.mot.com> <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com

rcj@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com (R.C. Jones) wrote:
>
> 
> I have a Sears 3 hp air compressor that is about five years old.
> When I use it for extended buffing/polishing now, it generates
> an "expensive"  knocking sound that makes me think I'll need to
> get a new one soon.

The Sears compressors are not that hard to repair.  You can also
purchase new compressors to mount on your old tank.

Normally, they only make this kind of sound if you don't frequently,
every 100 hours or so, change the oil or the air filter.

Sometimes the reed valves need to be replaced because they break,
bend, and/or corrode.

best,

Mike


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:32 EST 1995
Article: 10616 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!decwrl!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: air compressor: quiet air supply
Date: 23 Mar 1995 01:34:13 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <3kqj6l$k5p@news1.svc>
References: <janecek-1503952118580001@janecek.tezcat.com> <D5J6wM.7LI@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <3ka1mt$khf@newsgate.sps.mot.com> <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com

rcj@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com (R.C. Jones) wrote:
>
> 
> I have a Sears 3 hp air compressor that is about five years old.
> When I use it for extended buffing/polishing now, it generates
> an "expensive"  knocking sound that makes me think I'll need to
> get a new one soon.

The Sears compressors are not that hard to repair.  You can also
purchase new compressors to mount on your old tank.

Normally, they only make this kind of sound if you don't frequently,
every 100 hours or so, change the oil or the air filter.

Sometimes the reed valves need to be replaced because they break,
bend, and/or corrode.

best,

Mike


From steamer@rain.org Sun Mar 26 11:50:33 EST 1995
Article: 10617 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.rain.org!coyote.rain.org!steamer
From: steamer@rain.org ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Info required !
Date: 23 Mar 1995 01:40:46 GMT
Organization: RAIN Public Access Internet (805) 967-RAIN
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <3kqjiv$mn1@news.rain.org>
References: <3kps7e$63p@emerald.tufts.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: coyote.rain.org
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

: HELICAL COIL OF STEEL WITH RECTANGULAR CROSS SECTION, which shall further 
: be reinforced with PVC TUBING.
	Clarification, please: does the coil have the rectangular 
cross-section, or is it the steel? If it's the steel, I know how, i.e. 
I've done it with copper. The trick is to make a mandrel for the winding, 
which would be carried out on a lathe and a "feeder box" through which 
the wire is inserted, to be fed onto the mandrel.   

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas		:	Co-founder of the 
Voice: 805-968-7534		:	    SBSMEEBBQ
FAX:   805-JOB-TWAT		:	-Call about our Newsletter!
	--------Decks a-wash in a sea of words!!--------
					


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:34 EST 1995
Article: 10618 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and dies
Date: 22 Mar 1995 01:11:52 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <3kntgo$kot@news1.svc>
References: <1995Mar16.193446.25449@schbbs.mot.com><3kaerj$bmg@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> <41@lathyrus.win-uk.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com

djenkins@lathyrus.win-uk.net (David William Jenkins) wrote:

> 
> That sounds like you're saying British, etc. tools are better that
> those from the US of A.  Personally, I would put all 5 countries
> equal in quality, if you choose reputable makes.  I have a varied
> collection of taps & dies, carbon steel and HSS, most of which
> come from those 5 countries.  








> 
Didn't say that at all.  At their best, they can match us on some items.

Mike


From jlake@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:35 EST 1995
Article: 10619 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: jlake@ix.netcom.com (Jon Lake)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: chemical etching question
Date: 23 Mar 1995 01:58:16 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 13
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3kqkjo$kkq@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
References: <janecek-1503952118580001@janecek.tezcat.com> <D5J6wM.7LI@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <3ka1mt$khf@newsgate.sps.mot.com> <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com> <3kqj6l$k5p@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-pa6-15.ix.netcom.com

I would like to make some small flat prototype parts and I think that
chemical etching would give me the best quality.  Are there any
"hobbiest" kits out there for chemical etching or should I try to
avoid doing this myself?  I would like the material to be copper, but
aluminum would work.  On occasion, I would like to make small, flat
springs out of spring steel shim stock, can I make them with chemical
etching?  Some of this stuff would be a little difficult to machine on
a mill.
Alternatively, if the experts recommend against a small shop attempting
this, is there anyone out there that does low, low volume chem etching
in the San Francisco Bay area?
TIA,    jon



From dfalk@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca Sun Mar 26 11:50:37 EST 1995
Article: 10620 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!paladin.american.edu!gatech!swrinde!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.mindlink.net!vanbc.wimsey.com!sqwest!dfalk
From: dfalk@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca (David Falk)
Subject: Re: knifemaking newsgroup?
Message-ID: <1995Mar22.191859.10094@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca>
Organization: SoftQuad Inc.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <3kl90v$9up@lehua.ilhawaii.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 19:18:59 GMT
Lines: 15

william c. wilson (wildbill@ilhawaii.net) wrote:

: Is there a seperate newsgroup for forging and stock reduction
: knifemaking? If so what is it called?

Nope, not yet anyway.  I tend to read both rec.crafts.metalwork
and rec.crafts.jewelry.  However, if you want to talk about some
some knifemaking, feel free to e-mail me.

Dave.
-- 
David Falk, Junior System Administrator, SoftQuad Inc.  <dfalk@sqwest.bc.ca>  
<!ENTITY Subliminal_Message    "Do a Nice Thing for Someone Today"  >
*My opinions do not represent those of SoftQuad Inc.*            IRC: Sutekh 
**KIMAGURE ORANGE ROAD... FOREVER****Linux, choice of a GnuType Generation**


From powers@cis.ohio-state.edu Sun Mar 26 11:50:38 EST 1995
Article: 10621 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!bounce-bounce
From: powers@cis.ohio-state.edu (william thomas powers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: knifemaking newsgroup?
Date: 22 Mar 1995 21:31:26 -0500
Organization: The Ohio State University, Department of Computer and Information Science
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3kqmhuINNc34@iguana.cis.ohio-state.edu>
References: <3kl90v$9up@lehua.ilhawaii.net> <1995Mar22.191859.10094@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: iguana.cis.ohio-state.edu

In article <1995Mar22.191859.10094@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca> dfalk@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca (David Falk) writes:
>However, if you want to talk about some some knifemaking, feel free to
> e-mail me.
>Dave.

*Don't you dare!* spill it out here where the rest of us knifemakers
can join in. It would be nice to read about more things I am interested
in!

BTW the person who stated that a project would be easy if you had some metal
working skills:  I can forge, forgeweld, pattern-weld, heat treat, cast,
file, buff and grind--somehow I don't think these apply to lathe work,
milling and other operations where the "bigger Hammer" weighs 35 pounds...
(this divirsion brought to you by OSU CIS software which will not allow
you to post a short comment to a longer quote)

Thomas
Columbus, OH



From janecek@tezcat.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:39 EST 1995
Article: 10622 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!tezcat.com!janecek.tezcat.com!user
From: janecek@tezcat.com (jim janecek)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: air compressor: quiet air supply
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 13:43:55 -0600
Organization: Personal Effects inc.
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <janecek-2203951343550001@janecek.tezcat.com>
References: <janecek-1503952118580001@janecek.tezcat.com> <D5J6wM.7LI@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <3ka1mt$khf@newsgate.sps.mot.com> <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: janecek.tezcat.com

In article <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com>,
rcj@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com (R.C. Jones) wrote:

> I have a Sears 3 hp air compressor that is about five years old.
> When I use it for extended buffing/polishing now, it generates
> an "expensive"  knocking sound that makes me think I'll need to
> get a new one soon.
>  Is there an FAQ on compressors? Could anyone recommend a preferred model?
> I've heard that the "beltless/oil-less" ones are not so good. Comments
> would be sincerely appreciated.


I probably have the same model you do, only mine is about 6-7 years old.

I've had no problems with it, have you ever changed the oil?
If you can't figure out what's causing the knocking, you could just wait
for it to fail, take it apart, (they're not that complex) and relace the
parts from SEARS....

If you still have the manual, if you don't I could copy the parts section
and send it to you.
You might spend $150 in parts, but that's cheaper than a whole new compressor.

I also mistakenly purchased one of the newer 3hp "oil-less" direct-drive
compressors and although its lighter (I move mine around a lot) it is the
NOISIEST thing I have ever heard.

If you wish to purchase another new belt-drive piston compressor, I'd go
with a 2-3hp version from Grainger.  They are very quiet and seem to be
much more reliable than the Devilbliss brand that Sears sells.

-- 
Jim Janecek
janecek@tezcat.com
Personal Effects inc.


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:40 EST 1995
Article: 10623 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.ultranet.com!pcm.ultranet.com!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: chemical etching question
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 21:47:33 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 35
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <ginger.125.00E25783@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <janecek-1503952118580001@janecek.tezcat.com> <D5J6wM.7LI@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <3ka1mt$khf@newsgate.sps.mot.com> <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com> <3kqj6l$k5p@news1.svc> <3kqkjo$kkq@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pcm.ultranet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

In article <3kqkjo$kkq@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> jlake@ix.netcom.com (Jon Lake) writes:
>From: jlake@ix.netcom.com (Jon Lake)
>Subject: chemical etching question
>Date: 23 Mar 1995 01:58:16 GMT

>I would like to make some small flat prototype parts and I think that
>chemical etching would give me the best quality.  Are there any
>"hobbiest" kits out there for chemical etching or should I try to
>avoid doing this myself?  I would like the material to be copper, but
>aluminum would work.  On occasion, I would like to make small, flat
>springs out of spring steel shim stock, can I make them with chemical
>etching?  Some of this stuff would be a little difficult to machine on
>a mill.
>Alternatively, if the experts recommend against a small shop attempting
>this, is there anyone out there that does low, low volume chem etching
>in the San Francisco Bay area?
>TIA,    jon

This is often done by scale modelers. Look at rec.models.scale. There have 
been a few discussions recently about this, including a pointer to a few 
places that will do custom work, one off.

I just tried to make an etched brass name plate for a model I just finished. I 
bought some transfer paper sold for making printed circuit boards, printed the 
design on my laser printer, then ironed it onto the brass. My results were 
poor. I got a lot of bluring of lines.  I intend to get back to this someday. 

Has anyone else used this transfer film?

The etching is easy- you can buy a bottle of the echant at Radio Shack stores, 
cheap- about $5. 


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Mar 26 11:50:41 EST 1995
Article: 10624 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: knifemaking newsgroup?
Message-ID: <1995Mar22.123647.9430@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 22 Mar 95 12:36:46 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <3kl90v$9up@lehua.ilhawaii.net>
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming
Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
Lines: 28


In article <3kl90v$9up@lehua.ilhawaii.net>, "william c. wilson" <wildbill@ilhawaii.net> writes:
|>
|>Is there a seperate newsgroup for forging and stock reduction
|>knifemaking? If so what is it called?

There's not a newsgroup that I know of, but there is a mailing list:

    A mailing list for knifemakers, knife collectors, and people interested
    in edged-weaponry martial arts and techniques is the "EDGE" mailing list.
    Requests to be added to this list should be sent to:

      EDGE-owner@HICOM.LUT.AC.UK

    Submissions to the list itself should be sent to:

      EDGE@hicom.lut.ac.uk

    Topics on this list have ranged across topics like discussions of the
    types of steels used in knives, and why select one over another; the
    qualities and selection of different types of pocket tools [such as the
    Gerber Multi-Plier, the Leatherman, the SOG Toolclip, etc.]; current
    sales on knives from mail-order or discount-house sources; why Japanese
    swords are made the way they are/were, and how to take care of such a
    sword; selecting modern reproduction swords for martial-arts purposes;
    and many other edged-weapon and edged-tool subjects.

Jim


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:50:42 EST 1995
Article: 10625 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lathe work needed
Date: 19 Mar 1995 06:12:33 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <3kgi0h$22p@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <phabibD5MHCy.7KA@netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Philippe Habib (phabib@netcom.com) wrote:
: I need a small part made on a lathe.  It needs to be a steel rod, either 7/8
: or on inch in diameter (It doesn't matter which, but it must be fairly
: precise)  with one end turned down and threaded with a 5/16" fine thread and
: the other end being either ground into two or four parallel faces, or made
: into a 6 sided hex cap so that it can be tightened.

: It would replace a 5/16 grade 8 bolt that holds the rotor onto a garden chipper.
: The round part would be in a pillow block to provide extra support for the 
: rotor and maybe help the engine last a bit longer.  I just had to replace a
: crankshaft that broke after 33 hours of use.

: Since it would be replacing a grade 8 bolt, it would have to be made of 
: something of similar strength.

: If you think you'd like to make this for me, please send me mail and we can
: work out the details in private mail.

Is this an "MTD" chipper?  This is also sold under the Craftsman brand at
Sears, and probably others?  Essentially a 5 or 8 HP Briggs & Stratton engine
directly bolted to a disc with two chipping blades, and a structure with
hammer-knives on the other side?  You need to use a bag to catch the chips?
I have one of these, too, and I was wondering how the engine could take
the forces applied to the shaft.  It seems that most of these things continue
to work without failure, so you might just have had a flawed crank from the
factory.  My pet peeve about the thing is the need to constantly sharpen the
chipper knives, which are not too easy to get out.  They really need a
sharpening after just two short sessions.  I have a lathe, but the part
you want probably needs heat treating after initial turning, and then a final
grind to dimension on the bearing surface.  I'm no expert on the heat 
treating.


From dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:43 EST 1995
Article: 10626 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!kaleka.seanet.com!dmauch.seanet.com!dmauch
From: dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Enco mill and CCNC
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 03:07:54 GMT
Organization: OSD, Inc.
Lines: 1
Message-ID: <dmauch.1.2F70E609@dmauch.seanet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dmauch.seanet.com
Summary: Enco quality and computer numerical control
Keywords: Enco mill cnc
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

Has any one


From dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:44 EST 1995
Article: 10627 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!kaleka.seanet.com!dmauch.seanet.com!dmauch
From: dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Enco Mill and CCNC
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 03:15:35 GMT
Organization: OSD, Inc.
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <dmauch.2.2F70E7D6@dmauch.seanet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dmauch.seanet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

 I ahev taken my new Enco milling machineie the 8X36 and converted it to CNC 
using the Cimple Computer Numerical Control concepts previoulsly mentioned.
I got the X and the Z axis running beautifully but the Y axis stepper motor is 
weak. I'll try treplacing it tonight
	While testing the X axis I noticed that the number of steps required to move 
1 inch was not what it should have been. Using a 2-1 ratio timing pulley and a 
200 step per revoltution motor with the enco X axis 5TPI it should have taken 
4000 step per inch. After playing with it I found that it only took 3930 steps 
per inch. I used a 1" long drift dial indicator for my checks. It did the same 
using the computer to control it or the manual crank. This leads me to believe 
that the pitcch is off on the leadscrew. I have found that on other enco stuff 
such as the mill drill table. 
	Has anyone else found the leadscrew pitch to be off? BTW the Y axis was right 
on.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:50:45 EST 1995
Article: 10628 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High speed bearings
Date: 19 Mar 1995 06:17:45 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <3kgia9$22p@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <joubert.38.2F64353C@cc.und.ac.za>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Pierre Joubert (joubert@cc.und.ac.za) wrote:
: Hi all

: I am building one of Kurt Schreckling's gas turbines and have come
: to the stage where I need to start thinking about bearings. I have odered

I replied before about the air bearing idea, but I'd like to know more about
the Kurt Schreckling gas turbine.  What size is this engine?  Is it for
model or larger aircraft?

Thanks.


From henry@chs.mb.ca Sun Mar 26 11:50:46 EST 1995
Article: 10629 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!news
From: henry@chs.mb.ca (Henry Kroker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hi-Freq module for mobile TIG
Date: 22 Mar 1995 02:38:54 GMT
Organization: Continental Healthcare Systems Canada, Inc.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3ko2ju$3c3@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca>
References: <3kj6hu$e1t@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
Reply-To: henry@chs.mb.ca
NNTP-Posting-Host: ubiserver.chs.mb.ca
X-Newsreader: xvnews 2.3 Beta PL4, use only for testing please.


>High frequency current is essential for TIG welding aluminum as the high 
>frequency current breaks up the oxide coating on the surface of the 
>aluminum.  Without the HF, you will have to break up the oxide 
>mechanically, which does not produce as sound a weld.

>Craig Hodne

Don't know much about TIG welding, but based on the repairs I'm doing to a sorched plasma, the 700 or 800 dollars Lincoln wanted for their attacment sounds like a good deal. The power board for this torch (a 40 amp unit ...SMALL) is $1200US. The sixteen power mosfets are 7.00 each US. This still leaves control, rectifiers, filtering, heatsink etc. I have to confess that I have considered this possibility myself, but the ecconomics seem a bit doubtfull.

The plasma torch i'm repairing has "fair" schematics with it. For a TIG attachment these could be simplified, but they give you some idea of what's involved with switching high power, at a high frequency.

I'm trying the repair, but the welding shop wrote it off.

I'd be interested in knowing of referance texts that dealt with both of these subjects (plasma high freq TIG) in depth, from a technical perspective. ie. physics and electronics. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
henry




From denatale@nando.net Sun Mar 26 11:50:48 EST 1995
Article: 10630 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!parsifal.nando.net!grail919.nando.net!user
From: denatale@nando.net (Rick DeNatale)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ticklevanian currency (was Re: The Feel of Aluminium)
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 21:50:17 -0500
Organization: News & Observer Public Access
Lines: 61
Message-ID: <denatale-2103952150170001@grail919.nando.net>
References: <3k7r2d$kvr@eplet.mira.net.au> <1995Mar18.003318.26764@ampakzo.uucp> <1995Mar20.062908.3543@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <3kli3m$18im@news.ccit.arizona.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grail919.nando.net
X-Newsreader: Value-Added NewsWatcher 2.0b24.0+

In article <3kli3m$18im@news.ccit.arizona.edu>, bill@tuson.SIE.Arizona.EDU
(Bill Ganoe) wrote:

> In article <1995Mar20.062908.3543@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman) writes:
> >bluejay@ampakzo.UUCP (Bluejay Adametz) writes:
> >>In article <3k7r2d$kvr@eplet.mira.net.au>,
kmurray@werple.mira.net.au   (Kevin Murray) writes...
>    [snip]
> >>---
> >>In the exotic land of Ticklevania, the price of three souvenir
> >>wristwatches is five Ticklevanian dollars and one pfennie (a
> >>common coin not to be confused with our penny). However, one
> >>souvenir wristwatch costs only one Ticklevanian dollar and five
> >>pfennies.  Assuming that the Ticklevanians are good
> >>mathematicians and fair in their business practices, what would
> >>you expect to pay for two souvenir wristwatches if you visited
> >>Ticklevania?? 
>    [snip]
> >Two Ticklevanian dollars, 10 pfennies.  The question is not how much
> >you pay for two, rather what is the cost each if you buy 3?  It seems
> >that either we have another coin, less than a fpenny or a dollar that
> >has something other than 100 fpenny in it.
> Looks to me like the Ticklevanian dollar is worth 3 2/3 pfennies.

No this would make the price of one watch 26/3 pfennies or 26 pfennies for 3,
but 3 cost 19 1/3 pfennies.  

I get 7 pfennies per Ticklevanian dollar by the following algebra

Given:

5D + 1P = 3W
1D + 5P = 1W

Pricing is fair so that the price of three watches should be equal to
three times the price of one so:

5D + 1P = 3(D + 5P)

Expanding:

5D + 1P = 3D + 15P

Gathering terms and simplifying:

2D = 14P 
1D = 7P   so 1 Ticklevanian Dollar = 7 pfennies!

Checking:

1W = 12P
3W = 35P + 1P = 36P = 3(12P) 

Q.E.D.

But what does this have to do with metalworking?

-- 
Rick DeNatale
Still trying to come up with a really cool Signature


From redman@gate.net Sun Mar 26 11:50:49 EST 1995
Article: 10631 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!tequesta.gate.net!sysop
From: redman@gate.net
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Enco Mill and CCNC
Date: 23 Mar 1995 04:14:41 GMT
Organization: CyberGate, Inc.
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <3kqsjh$26cm@tequesta.gate.net>
References: <dmauch.2.2F70E7D6@dmauch.seanet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jaxfl-1.gate.net
X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.82

In article <dmauch.2.2F70E7D6@dmauch.seanet.com>, dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch) says:
>
> I ahev taken my new Enco milling machineie the 8X36 and converted it to CNC 
>using the Cimple Computer Numerical Control concepts previoulsly mentioned.
>I got the X and the Z axis running beautifully but the Y axis stepper motor is 
>weak. I'll try treplacing it tonight
>        While testing the X axis I noticed that the number of steps required to move 
>1 inch was not what it should have been. Using a 2-1 ratio timing pulley and a 
>200 step per revoltution motor with the enco X axis 5TPI it should have taken 
>4000 step per inch. After playing with it I found that it only took 3930 steps 
>per inch. I used a 1" long drift dial indicator for my checks. It did the same 
>using the computer to control it or the manual crank. This leads me to believe 
>that the pitcch is off on the leadscrew. I have found that on other enco stuff 
>such as the mill drill table. 
>        Has anyone else found the leadscrew pitch to be off? BTW the Y axis was right 
>on.


Could your stepper motor be loosing/missing steps???  I have found that
too high of a move rate will cause missed steps, thus inacurate movement.
Also overloading can cause missed steps, as in too small of a power supply
or motor too small for application.

ED.
Redman@mailhost.gate.net


From mkline@analogic.com Sun Mar 26 11:50:50 EST 1995
Article: 10632 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!bilbo.analogic.com!not-for-mail
From: Michael Kline <mkline@analogic.com>
Subject: Re: Hi-Freq module for mobile TIG
Message-ID: <3147cb$de34.2f@bilbo.analogic.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 18:14:51 GMT
References: <3khnqn$46e@panix.com> <3kigbh$i8p$1@perth.DIALix.oz.au> <3kj6hu$e1t@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>
Lines: 26

hodne@cedar.cic.net (Craig Hodne) wrote:
> 
> High frequency current is essential for TIG welding aluminum as the high 
> frequency current breaks up the oxide coating on the surface of the 
> aluminum.  Without the HF, you will have to break up the oxide 
> mechanically, which does not produce as sound a weld.
> 
  I don't think this is exactly correct. In the TIG welding course
that I took it was explained that the high freq attachment kept
the argon ionized when the main AC power crossed through zero.
tests of aluminum welding with just an old Miller Buzz-box and
an air cooled TIG torch showed that without the high Freq attachment
you could still weld aluminum but the amperage had to be cranked up
so high that you burned thru anything less than 1/4" thick.

	I too would be interested in any schematics or documentation
on building a high freq attachment. I think I could build something
now that would generate the high voltage but I'm a little worried
about what it would do to me when I Zap myself as I know I will.
A high enough frequency should handle this aspect but I too am 
unclear as to how to couple the high freq in.

	Any knowledgable welder/electrical engineers out There?

					Mike
					Mkline@Analogic.com



From douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org Sun Mar 26 11:50:52 EST 1995
Article: 10633 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!nwcs!douglas.wiggins
From: douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org (Douglas Wiggins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Silica Gel
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 02:22:00 GMT
Message-ID: <9503211920572471@nwcs.org>
Organization: NWCS Online * Oregon USA
Distribution: world
References: <3jusif$fb5@sundog.tiac.net> <3ilebp$snq@nntp1.u.washington.edu> <tfoecke-27029
Lines: 71        

DW:From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)

This is taken from a quote from one of your responses; I don't know
who made the original statement:

DW:>>silica gel is intended for relatively small volumes.  Silica gel works by
DW:>>water diffusing into the silica gel forming a "deca-hydro" I think
DW:>>compound, but once it is saturated, it cannot hold any more water.  Warmer

Silica gel works because it is filled with tiny tunnels - the water
deposits on the surface of these tunnels, thus being trapped; at
least, that is what the manufacturer of silica gel products put
into their literature. The gel is formed by dumping water glass
(sodium silicate) into an acid (if memory serves).

Not especially important, but I understand that it is a mechanical
process.

DW:A company called Hydrosorbent sells silica gel desicant in several
DW:convenient sizes.  The nice thing about these is that they have an
DW:indicator to tell when they're saturated, and you can 'recharge' them in
DW:the oven.  I use the small aluminum packs for some of my tools, and

That indicator, which turns pink when the gel is damp and is blue
when dry, is cobalt chloride (a fairly cheap, slightly toxic,
chemical which was once included in chemistry sets for making
invisible ink - write with a dilute solution of and the faint pink
lines can barely be seen, but heating the paper with a light-bulb
turns the writing blue; it was also used for small, unglazed
ceramic animals which act as weather indicators, and it was used to
put an indicator spot onto thermometers - not accurate enough to be
useful, but interesting). An ounce of cobalt chloride crystals
might cost $20 from a chemical supply house, but it would be
several lifetimes supplies if used to color a few grains of silica
gel (only a small number of the silica gel particles are colored
with the indicator - it probably interferes with the adsorption
[and that is not a spelling error]). It should be possible, if a
person used much silica gel, to color one's own indicator particles
- the indicator gel costs a dollar or two more per pound, in my
experience.

You mentioned that silica gel can be recharged by heating in an
oven at low heat, but it should be noted that this only applies if
the container is up to it - if one tries to recharge the little
packets which come in bottles and are packaged with
moisture-sensitive equipment, the packets may melt.

DW:(like when I'm disassembling a target pistol) is to wear cotton 'inspection
DW:gloves' that have been lightly sprayed with a thin rust preventative oil.

DW:if concerned about what the oil does to your skin, you can wear latex
DW:gloves underneath the cotton.  It doesn't work well for really delicate

Latex will be attacked by most oils - it will not take long before
the gloves are shredded.

Concerning your post about protecting things from rust: I think I
read somewhere that paradichlorobenzene, the stuff used to
deodorize men's rooms and in moth-blocks, will replace the moisture
in an enclosed space with chlorinated organic vapor fumes.
Napthalene moth balls would probably do the same thing (only the
fumes would not be chlorinated, which shouldn't make much
difference). This would work on the principle of like dissolves
like (the organic component will not mix with the water component,
at least, in theory).

Just some points to ponder.

  -Douglas Wiggins zoron@nwcs.org, Portland, Oregon
---
 * OLX 2.2 TD * Custom Glassblowing - Testers for Perfume Sales


From douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org Sun Mar 26 11:50:53 EST 1995
Article: 10634 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!nwcs!douglas.wiggins
From: douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org (Douglas Wiggins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Casting bottle caps
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 02:39:00 GMT
Message-ID: <9503211920572472@nwcs.org>
Organization: NWCS Online * Oregon USA
Distribution: world
References: <3jmbo9$78l$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com>
Lines: 37        

71:Would be glad to help in more detail if you want.  I've made and used
71:many kind of home-made foundry tools and furnaces and have used many
71:kinds of fuels, and would be glad share my experiences.

I need to set up a casting system for the manufacture of small
screw-caps for use on cosmetic bottles; the materials cast will be
bronze and/or silver, using lost-wax investment and vacuum casting
(I have a centrifuge, but it does not allow heat to continue to be
applied to the sprue button after the metal is poured). The heat
source will be oxy-hydrogen, unless someone makes a better
recommendation (hydrogen is hard to beat, though - hot and clean).

I have viewed the tapes offered by Precious Metals West (they have
two tapes on casting that they provide free of charge; they didn't
ask for them to be returned, but I just copied the tapes they sent
and returned them to help them keep their costs down). That company
is strong on wanting to eliminate dangerous chemicals from the
alloys, and they pride themselves on having developed alloys which
don't require poisons to be bright. Anyway, they use vacuum pumps
on a manifold made of one-inch (25mm) ID pipe, and a vibrating
table with a vacuum dome to get the bubbles out of the investment.

I need to know how to get from the original to the investment,
which I think will involved tooling a threaded core slightly larger
than life-size, then making an original, which is used to make a
rubber mold, which is used to make wax models, which is then
embedded into the plaster. I am having trouble trying to figure out
how large to make the pattern and how to get it from that stage to
the wax models. I have had a core machined which is 1.5% larger
than life, but this is just guessing.

Perhaps you can suggest a book which will help me to figure out
what materials and equipment I should procure.

  -Douglas Wiggins zoron@nwcs.org, Portland, Oregon
---
 * OLX 2.2 TD * Lampwork for Aromatherapy & Perfume Retail Counters


From douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org Sun Mar 26 11:50:54 EST 1995
Article: 10635 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!nwcs!douglas.wiggins
From: douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org (Douglas Wiggins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: air compressor
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 03:09:00 GMT
Message-ID: <9503211920572473@nwcs.org>
Organization: NWCS Online * Oregon USA
Distribution: world
References: <3k07q0$sot@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Lines: 13        

TP:From: tpadill@aol.com (Tpadill)
TP:Question, I looking for information on using a refrigerator compressor to
TP:make an air brush air supply does anybody know of any refererences.

I have heard of using such a contraption for providing the air
needed for an air-propane torch; a bit of open-ended rubber tubing
was put on a T on the line with a partial restriction (clothes
pin?) to control how much air was bypassed out to the room. The
pressure for an airbrush would be slightly higher than for a torch.

  -Douglas Wiggins zoron@nwcs.org, Portland, Oregon
---
 * OLX 2.2 TD * Custom Glassblowing - Testers for Perfume Sales


From douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org Sun Mar 26 11:50:55 EST 1995
Article: 10636 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!nwcs!douglas.wiggins
From: douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org (Douglas Wiggins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Interesting web resou
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 06:49:00 GMT
Message-ID: <9503211920572474@nwcs.org>
Organization: NWCS Online * Oregon USA
Distribution: world
References: <darylb-100395180629@47.8.3.84> <1735AB7F3S86.PRUITER@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca> <1995Ma
Lines: 25        

DB:> I tried this and it didn't work.  However, dropping the "www." *did*

DB:The address worked for me as quoted. However when I got there they want you
DB:to fill out this form with your ID and passwords etc etc etc. Whats the
DB:point of that?

I am very glad that the Thomas Register is online, but it is very
scary when anyone asks for your passwords. There have been cases of
someone unscrupulous putting a seemingly valid option onto the net,
only to have it be just a trick to get the passwords of people who
might want to use that resource. I always give a different password
than my regular passwords for such things - something I will
remember, but not anything that I use elsewhere.

I am still looking for help in finding someone who can set me up to
make cast-metal screw-caps for small bottles (silver and/or bronze).
I need to know what kind of vacuum pump I need for the vacuum
casting and for removing the bubbles from the investment, and
generally need to know how to stay out of trouble.

Thank you, if you can help.

  -Douglas Wiggins zoron@nwcs.org, Portland, Oregon
---
 * OLX 2.2 TD * Custom Scientific Glassblowing to Specifications


From douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org Sun Mar 26 11:50:56 EST 1995
Article: 10637 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!nwcs!douglas.wiggins
From: douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org (Douglas Wiggins)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Pipe Locator
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 22:05:00 GMT
Message-ID: <9503211920572475@nwcs.org>
Organization: NWCS Online * Oregon USA
Distribution: world
References: <D54s8A.GpL@boss.cs.ohiou.edu> <D4L894.Mts@boss.cs.ohiou.edu> <3jibf6$b3a@usene
Lines: 27        

MK:From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
MK:>My father in law uses divining rods to locate electrical lines, water
. . .
MK:>While some people think that divining is an psychic ability, I believe
MK:>it is just using the electro-magnetic charge of whatever is in the line

MK:Then why does the technique work for your father-in-law and not for you?

MK:                                       Mark Kinsler
MK:                                      who started this whole thing...

Dowsing is a personal thing - if you can do it, you can do it. I
don't know if it can be taught. It does generally run in families,
but I doubt that the relation of father-in-law is strong enough to
expect much. My uncle can do it, and I can do it, and my
great-grandmother could do it, but I don't know of anyone else in
my family who can do it.

I do not believe that it is electro-magnetic, otherwise, how would
it work when the original dowsing rods (made of wood) were used?
And wood is just one of many substances used for divining rods.

Good luck.

  -Douglas Wiggins zoron@nwcs.org, Portland, Oregon
---
 * OLX 2.2 TD * Lampwork for Aromatherapy & Perfume Retail Counters


From npstewar@eos.ncsu.edu Sun Mar 26 11:50:57 EST 1995
Article: 10638 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!npstewar
From: npstewar@eos.ncsu.edu (Nathan Phillip Stewart)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Ticklevanian currency (was Re: The Feel of Aluminium)
Date: 22 Mar 1995 03:48:31 GMT
Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <3ko6mf$o8q@taco.cc.ncsu.edu>
References: <1995Mar20.062908.3543@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <3kli3m$18im@news.ccit.arizona.edu> <denatale-2103952150170001@grail919.nando.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c00313-11pa.eos.ncsu.edu

In article <denatale-2103952150170001@grail919.nando.net> denatale@nando.net (Rick DeNatale) writes:
>But what does this have to do with metalworking?

The Ticklevanian government changed the makeup of the fpenny (or was it
pfennie?) a few years back, and ruined a cheap & easy source of fpenny
stonze? 
N8



From thompson@psy.fsu.edu Sun Mar 26 11:50:58 EST 1995
Article: 10639 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!uwvax!uchinews!ncar!gatech!mailer.fsu.edu!nb2ppp10.acns-slp.fsu.edu!thompson
From: thompson@psy.fsu.edu (Ron Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: work holder for disk
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 22:56:44 GMT
Organization: Psychology Dept., FSU
Lines: 42
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <thompson.35.2F70AB26@psy.fsu.edu>
References: <3kq4mb$75e@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nb2ppp10.acns-slp.fsu.edu

In article <3kq4mb$75e@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> KEOliver@ix.netcom.com (Kevin Oliver) writes:
>Path: mailer.fsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
>From: KEOliver@ix.netcom.com (Kevin Oliver)

>Some background first; I am an attorney and green, rank 
>beginning, amateur machinist with a Sherline lathe and mill.  I need to 
>reduce the diameter of a metal disk about 1" in diameter by turning down 
>its entire edge.  I need to find a way to hold the workpiece without 
>drilling a hole in the piece. I tried superglue-ing the piece to a plain 
>arbor and running the live center up against it, but the result was a 
>lovely oval shape (not good.) It would be easier to get Rush Limbaugh to 
>the center than to center this setup.  I am hoping that some of the more 
>experienced machinists who read this group may be able to help me get on 
>the right track.
>Either email or post your ideas.
>Thanks, Kevin
>-- 


>KEOliver@ix.netcom.com


The method I use for turning disks is to first chuch a piece of aluminum 
rod in the three jaw and turn it flat then center drill it. cut it off at a 
distance past the center drilled hole. It is now a "button" with a recess 
in one  side. the piece remaining in the chuck is left in place and your 
disk is placed on it. now bring the tail stock up and with your live center 
inserted into the recess in the button press it against the disk. This 
clamps the disk in place. you need a fair amount of pressure to hold it 
there while cutting. In your case you may want to make tthe piece of 
aluminum rod the same size as your disk. When starting the cut aproach the 
disk with care. I have turned stacks of disks like this. You can start with 
square pieces of sheet metal as long as you turn the corners off with a care.

Ron



Ron Thompson                   |  Voice (904) 644-5563
Psychology Dept                |  Fax   (904) 644-7739
Florida State Univ             |  Amateur Radio N4FHO
Tallahassee, FL 33206-1051     |  Member Florida Flywheelers


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:50:59 EST 1995
Article: 10640 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!news.moneng.mei.com!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: High speed bearings
Date: 17 Mar 1995 20:17:47 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <3kcqpb$1cl@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <joubert.38.2F64353C@cc.und.ac.za>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Pierre Joubert (joubert@cc.und.ac.za) wrote:
: Hi all

: I am building one of Kurt Schreckling's gas turbines and have come
: to the stage where I need to start thinking about bearings. I have odered
: some bearings from the U.K rated at 80 000 RPM which should do the job
: although I would rather get them locally (South Africa) . My question is what
: industry or application uses these small high speed bearings ? . 
: Size = 8 ID x 16 OD x 5  Speed 90 000RPM +

Have you thought about AIR bearings?  The compressor of the engine would be
a perfect source of compressed air, all you need is a small air pump for
starting, then the compressor would take over.



From npstewar@eos.ncsu.edu Sun Mar 26 11:51:01 EST 1995
Article: 10641 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!npstewar
From: npstewar@eos.ncsu.edu (Nathan Phillip Stewart)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Interesting web resou
Date: 22 Mar 1995 04:05:44 GMT
Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos
Lines: 19
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3ko7mo$ohf@taco.cc.ncsu.edu>
References: <1735AB7F3S86.PRUITER@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca> <1995Ma <9503211920572474@nwcs.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: c00313-11pa.eos.ncsu.edu

In article <9503211920572474@nwcs.org> douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org (Douglas Wiggins) writes:
>I am very glad that the Thomas Register is online, but it is very
>scary when anyone asks for your passwords.

>might want to use that resource. I always give a different password
>than my regular passwords for such things - something I will
>remember, but not anything that I use elsewhere.


Noooooo - don't ever use your account password, or any password you
use elsewhere. Even if _you_ don't care about security on a particular
resource (fer' instance - local BBS', seldom used non critical things),
admin types do care (like campus admins being worried about folks who
never change their password from their SS#. A couple hundred accounts
as such is a security risk.)

Now back to metalwork.
Nathan



From murr@jazzmin.vnet.net Sun Mar 26 11:51:02 EST 1995
Article: 10642 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!ralph.vnet.net!jazzmin.vnet.net!not-for-mail
From: murr@jazzmin.vnet.net (murr rhame)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reading a Caliper (vernier scales)
Date: 23 Mar 1995 10:37:20 -0500
Organization: Vnet Internet Access, Inc. - Charlotte, NC. (704) 374-0779
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <3ks4jg$7po@jazzmin.vnet.net>
References: <3kruc3$ns8@linus.mitre.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jazzmin.vnet.net

bgiller@mitre.org (Bruce Giller) writes:

>I have a 6" caliper that measures in both inches and mm.  It is
>supposed to go down to the .001 level but I haven't figured out how to
>do that; I can get to the .1 level easy enough.

>The 'moving' part of the caliper has an inch long scale attached to it
>that starts with 0 and ends with 25 and says "1/1000"on the scale.  I
>use the 0 mark to figure out the .1 level  by where it lines up with
>the 'non moving' scale.  In between the .1 marks are four marks which
>correspond to a .025 level.  If the 0 lines up with one of these four
>marks, I just add .025 to the measurement.  But when it is inbetween,
>I'm lost.   I assume that the other marks on the 'moving'  scale are
>for the .001 level but I am unable to figure out how to read them.  Has
>anyone any experience with a caliper like this?

The second scale marked 0 to 25 is called the vernier scale.  With this
you can determine where the pointer is when it's between the .025 marks on
the fixed scale.  Say you have the pointer at 1.125" plus something less
than the next .025" mark.  Move up the vernier scale until you find a mark
that is exactly aligned with a mark on the fixed scale.  Add the number
from the verier scale to the number to the main scale reading in my
example of 1.125".  This will give you the .001" resolution.  It's a bit
easier to see the alignment if you look at the scale edgewise looking down
the marks....  This is a lot easier to explain with illustrations.  Most
any machinist text book should have a section on how to read a verier
scale.  

A dial caliper is easier to read.  Dials and digitals are not necessarily
more accurate.  If you do get a dial caliper look for a unit where the
dial is .100" per revolution.  The less expensive .200" per revolution
models are nearly as hard to read accurately as a vernier. 

- murr -


From dholly@psl.wisc.edu Sun Mar 26 11:51:04 EST 1995
Article: 10643 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!psl.wisc.edu!DHOLLY
From: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: 23 Mar 1995 15:35:56 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Physical Science Lab
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <3ks4gs$qfu@news.doit.wisc.edu>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net> <3kqvdl$83a@kelly.teleport.com> <3krtib$4q7@jazzmin.vnet.net>,<thompson.235.2F717D2D@psy.fsu.edu>
Reply-To: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: pslc.psl.wisc.edu

In article <thompson.235.2F717D2D@psy.fsu.edu>, thompson@psy.fsu.edu (Ron Thompson) writes:
[...]
>
>My understanding is that when you refer to "goverment work" is that you are 
>really doing personal work on goverment time. And for close enough for... I 
>understand that one to mean that if you are doing it for yourself you would 
>have taken more care but the sorry job you did is "close enough for 
>goverment work". 
>
>Ron
>
[...]

My understanding of the origin of "government job" is that it's what you
say in response to a co-worker who asks you what you're doing when you're
using company equipment to work on a personal project, as in "I wish I
could tell you what it is, but I can't -- it's a top secret job for The
Government."


                      ...when I sit down to write
Don Holly             my intentions are always blameless however deplorable
                      the ultimate effect of the act may turn out to be.
                                           --Joseph Conrad


From jaf@a2.cim.cdc.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:06 EST 1995
Article: 10644 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!cdsmail!a2.cim.cdc.com!jaf
From: jaf@a2.cim.cdc.com (James Foster x2912)
Subject: Re: Ticklevanian currency (was Re: The Feel of Aluminium)
Sender: usenet@cdsmail.cdc.com (John P Ehrenberg)
Message-ID: <D5wGIs.Mwr@cdsmail.cdc.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 15:32:51 GMT
References: <3k7r2d$kvr@eplet.mira.net.au> <1995Mar18.003318.26764@ampakzo.uucp> <1995Mar20.062908.3543@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <3kli3m$18im@news.ccit.arizona.edu>
Organization: Control Data Systems
Lines: 34

In article <3kli3m$18im@news.ccit.arizona.edu>, bill@tuson.SIE.Arizona.EDU (Bill Ganoe) writes:
|> In article <1995Mar20.062908.3543@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman) writes:
|> >bluejay@ampakzo.UUCP (Bluejay Adametz) writes:
|> >
|> >
|> >>In article <3k7r2d$kvr@eplet.mira.net.au>, kmurray@werple.mira.net.au   (Kevin Murray) writes...
|>    [snip]
|> >>---
|> >>In the exotic land of Ticklevania, the price of three souvenir
|> >>wristwatches is five Ticklevanian dollars and one pfennie (a
|> >>common coin not to be confused with our penny). However, one
|> >>souvenir wristwatch costs only one Ticklevanian dollar and five
|> >>pfennies.  Assuming that the Ticklevanians are good
|> >>mathematicians and fair in their business practices, what would
|> >>you expect to pay for two souvenir wristwatches if you visited
|> >>Ticklevania?? 
|>    [snip]
|> >Two Ticklevanian dollars, 10 pfennies.  The question is not how much
|> >you pay for two, rather what is the cost each if you buy 3?  It seems
|> >that either we have another coin, less than a fpenny or a dollar that
|> >has something other than 100 fpenny in it.
|> >-- 
|> >    - Barry Workman 
|> 
|> Looks to me like the Ticklevanian dollar is worth 3 2/3 pfennies.
|> 
|> -- 
|> Bill Ganoe -- U. of Arizona, SIE Dept **   Engineering:
|> bill@SIE.Arizona.EDU                  **      The ultimate art
|> 520.621.2528                          **      of the human mind.

Well, I still say it's 3 td, 3pf for two watches, which is the same
as what Barry said since there appear to be 7pf/td, and no, I can't
figure out what the h*ll this has to do with r.c.m either B^) 


From denatale@nando.net Sun Mar 26 11:51:07 EST 1995
Article: 10645 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!parsifal.nando.net!grail916.nando.net!user
From: denatale@nando.net (Rick DeNatale)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Watch glass and bezel
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 23:45:27 -0500
Organization: News & Observer Public Access
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <denatale-2203952345270001@grail916.nando.net>
References: <Zi55GFo.clica@delphi.com> <D5rB4J.43M@boss.cs.ohiou.edu> <1995Mar22.052200.20520@lofty.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: grail916.nando.net
X-Newsreader: Value-Added NewsWatcher 2.0b24.0+

In article <1995Mar22.052200.20520@lofty.com>, timj@lofty.com (Tim Jensen)
wrote:

> In article <D5rB4J.43M@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>, kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
(Mark Kinsler ) writes:
> >  Hokay, network: what's S. LaRose's phone #?  I'm sitting here
> > in Mississippi and my bookshelf is 800 miles away.
> 
>        234 Commerce Place
>        Greensboro, North Carolina 27420
>       
>        Phone# (919)-275-0462

A year or so ago North Carolina acquired a third area code and Greensboro
is now in area code 910, so if the above doesn't work try

   (910) 275-0462

-- 
Rick DeNatale
Still trying to come up with a really cool Signature


From aw955@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Sun Mar 26 11:51:08 EST 1995
Article: 10646 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!aw955
From: aw955@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Robert Hoover)
Subject: Cut a way of valve
Message-ID: <D5tvz0.MB2@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: aw955@freenet2.carleton.ca (Robert Hoover)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 06:13:48 GMT
Lines: 22


I am working on doing a cut-a-way for a complex numatic valve.

The nice thing is that the valve is a cylinder and all of its
componets are on center. My problem lies in how to do the cuting

so that the pieces in the valve will not fall out. I have thought
about cutting the valve in half +.10 " so that I actually have
some round edge to keep parts inside the valve. 

Also There are several parts that I would like to cut in place BUT
I am dealing weith several differnt metals. The main part of the
valve is Stainless Steel with several parts of the internals being
brass or sping steel. Would there be a problem cutting all these items
at one time ?

I would like to make sure I dont maul my only valve for this project
by trying to mix cutting differnt materials.

	Many Thanks

	-R


From flint@uclaue.mbi.ucla.edu Sun Mar 26 11:51:09 EST 1995
Article: 10647 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!csulb.edu!library.ucla.edu!nnrp.info.ucla.edu!usenet
From: Flint Smith <flint@uclaue.mbi.ucla.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: HSM articles in n parts
Date: 22 Mar 1995 04:38:58 GMT
Organization: University of California, Los Angeles
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <3ko9l2$ps6@saba.info.ucla.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: holmes.mbi.ucla.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-URL: news:rec.crafts.metalworking#9503211920572471@nwcs.org

I just received my very first issue of Home Shop Machinist.
I was surprised to find that the articles have been divided
into a large number of portions.  Glancing through, I saw
a "part 6" and a "part 8".  At the rate of one issue each 
two months, these have been running for over a year!  This
seems excessive.

I skimmed the "part 6" about making miniature C-clamps and it
seemed complete.  What was part 5, and how did it relate to 
part 6?  The "part 8" is definately a work in progress.

One other thing, I think this month is March, but the cover of
the HSM says January/February.  Are thy always this late, or is
this a special service for new subscribers?

Flint



From walter@roadster.sps.mot.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:11 EST 1995
Article: 10648 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!spstimes.sps.mot.com!newsdist.sps.mot.com!newsgate.sps.mot.com!roadster!walter
From: walter@roadster.sps.mot.com (thomas walter x5955)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wanted: Steam Whistle Plans
Date: 23 Mar 1995 15:29:10 GMT
Organization: /usr/news/lib/organization
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <3ks446$uc0@newsgate.sps.mot.com>
References: <3kcigr$gp0@baja.pacificrim.net> <3kqdu9$jg@maple.enet.net>
Reply-To: walter@roadster.sps.mot.com (thomas walter x5955)
NNTP-Posting-Host: roadster.sps.mot.com

Noticed Guy Lautard wrote about the "Lunkenheimer" (something like that)
in one of the "Bedside Readers".  Hmm, did anyone buy the index?

I don't have the steam, but am tempted to run 25' of metal pipe up
through the house, to the whistle. Pull the air tank valve when it
is time for the kids to come home for dinner! :-)

--Tom Walter				walter@roadster.sps.mot.com
P.S. Any other HSM's in Austin, Texas  on the net? please email.




From timj@lofty.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:12 EST 1995
Article: 10649 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.ksu.ksu.edu!news.mid.net!krypton.hpc.sdsmt.edu!loft386!timj
From: timj@lofty.com (Tim Jensen)
Subject: Re: Watch glass and bezel
Message-ID: <1995Mar22.052200.20520@lofty.com>
Summary: S. Larose Address
Organization: Lofty Pursuits Public Access Unix for Rapid City, SD USA
References: <Zi55GFo.clica@delphi.com> <D5rB4J.43M@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 95 05:22:00 GMT
Lines: 23

In article <D5rB4J.43M@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>, kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler ) writes:
> >aneroid barometer that is a family heirloom. The glass broke
> >and the bezel has rotted away. The glass is 6.26 inches in
> >diameter, with the center about 1/4 inch higher than the edge.
> >The bezel should be chrome plated or polished metal, and hold
> 
> Everyone has probably already told you this, but the place to look is 
> S. LaRose, whose address (in S Carolina?) and telephone # I don't have
> access to because I'm not home.  They sell clock and watch stuff.  They
> should definitely have the glass, and possibly something close to the 
> bezel.  Hokay, network: what's S. LaRose's phone #?  I'm sitting here
> in Mississippi and my bookshelf is 800 miles away.
>                     
>                                            M Kinsler
> 
> 

       234 Commerce Place
       Greensboro, North Carolina 27420
      
       Phone# (919)-275-0462




From danw@panix.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:15 EST 1995
Article: 10650 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!panix!not-for-mail
From: danw@panix.com (Dan Wold)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anvil making Process
Date: 23 Mar 1995 00:37:27 -0500
Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC
Lines: 50
Message-ID: <3kr1en$ndh@panix.com>
References: <3kl5qp$kbb@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: panix.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

ErnieLeim (ernieleim@aol.com) wrote:
: I've had so many request for the specifics of my process that I thought
: I'd just post it here and save some time. My main inerest in promoting
: this is to see more good anvils out there for people to use rather than to
: sit in antique stores with outrageous prices on them. I don't realy price
: these to make much money . I basicly cover my costs by charging $2.00 /
: lb. for unfinished and $2.50 -$3.00 / lb. for finished anvils.

:  Okay 
: The process is actually rather simple in concept; it just deals with
: really thick steel in a rather nasty way.

: cents per pound. New steel costs  between 90 cents and $1.50 a pound.
: Layout your pattern on the steel and cut it out . Trust me, I have done a
: lot of oxygen cutting and I was unprepared for just how nasty cutting 4
: inch plate could be. It takes a steady hand and a very regular speed to
: get a cut that is even remotely nice. This process was so unpleasant that
: after cutting my first anvil I immediatly looked for a company with a
: computer controlled cutting torch.

I certainly agree that cutting 4" plate is tricky. However, since you're
going to be welding and grinding in later steps of the project I suggest
cutting 4 identical pieces out of 1" plate and welding them together. It not
hard at all to get a smooth accurate cut on 1" plate. Just use a large tip
and plenty of oxygen pressure. Prior to welding the slabs together you could
cut in a 1" square hole by slotting a middle slab.


 I decided that if I was going to do
: this for any o   ne else there was no way I would hand cut another anvil.
: After you have the cut blank  profile, you have to do a couple of bevel
: torch cuts by hand to give the shape to the horn. Also don't forget the
: hardy hole. The pritchel hole can be drilled (thank god). As well to start
: the hardy hole torch cut you should drill a hole to start the cut in.
: After all the torch work is done, knock off all the slag and scale .
:  Hence beginneth the grinding .

(lots of stuff snipped)

Ernie, 

If you went through this to create your own anvil I believe you deserve some
recognition or award. Perhaps "Metal-Smith of the Month"! :-)

-Dan
-- 
danw@panix.com
Daniel Wold                               239 City Island Ave,Bronx,NY,10464
finger danw@danw.dialup.access.net
Sysop: WORLD CITIZEN BBS  718-885-2346  14.4  24 hrs  FREE  Fidonet BahaiNet


From carla2@teleport.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:16 EST 1995
Article: 10651 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!psgrain!news.teleport.com!news.teleport.com!not-for-mail
From: carla2@teleport.com (Carla Fong)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: 22 Mar 1995 21:02:45 -0800
Organization: Teleport - Portland's Public Access (503) 220-1016
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <3kqvdl$83a@kelly.teleport.com>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: kelly.teleport.com
Keywords: slang

In <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net> murr@elvis.vnet.net (murr rhame) writes:

>Curious about the slang term "government work".  In every shop I've been
>in government work has been used to describe a machinist doing personal
>work. 

Is anyone >from the west half of the US or other countries familiar with
this slang? 

When I went to work for a large west coast electronics manufacturer in 
the late 1960's, the term "Government Project" or G-Job was well 
established. As it was my first job, I wasn't sure of the protocol or 
terminology, and thought my leg was being pulled when i was told to refer 
to personal projects as "Government" jobs.

As it turned out, it seemed that the entire company was oriented to 
turning out these projects in preference to the actual business of the 
company... 

The standing joke was "How many people work at X ?... Answer: "About half"
-- 
carla2@teleport.COM          God has angels to help with her work, 
                             The devil has politicians


From demers_bob@htc.honeywell.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:17 EST 1995
Article: 10652 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!src.honeywell.com!ronin.src.honeywell.com!user
From: demers_bob@htc.honeywell.com (Bob DeMers)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: AA products lathe
Date: 23 Mar 1995 15:08:58 CST
Organization: Honeywell Technology Center
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <demers_bob-2303951513540001@ronin.src.honeywell.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ronin.src.honeywell.com

This is the old craftsman lathe that was 'not' made by Clausing.  Does
anyone have a source for manuals, parts, etc.?  The Clausing parts guy
gave me the address of a person in Ann Arbor Michigan, but I thought I
would try the net as well.

I know that this has been discussed before, but I didn't own one then and
didn't keep any of the info (of course).  Maybe this is in the faq, or
could be added?

In case anyone is interested, the source I have for manuals is:

Jim Anderson
1642 Hillridge
Ann Arbor MI 48103

Send an 8 1/2" x 11" self-addressed-stamped-envelope with 2 stamps. 
Include the model number in the request and he will send a copy of the
manual, a list of customers, and a list of parts sources.

-- 
Bob DeMers 
Honeywell Technology Center
demers_bob@htc.honeywell.com


From walterh@webe.hooked.net Sun Mar 26 11:51:18 EST 1995
Article: 10653 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!its.hooked.net!webe.hooked.net!not-for-mail
From: walterh@webe.hooked.net (Walter Haefeker)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Plans and parts for scale steam engines
Date: 22 Mar 1995 21:33:25 -0800
Organization: hooked
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <3kr175$ht4@webe.hooked.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: webe.hooked.net

I'm looking for informatiuon on plans and parts for stationary steam
engines as well as HO scale steam locomotives. 
 
I heard that there used to be a company in England that made a HO scale
steam locomotive that ran for about 7 minutes on one head of steam. 
 
Walter


From hentelef@access.mbnet.mb.ca Sun Mar 26 11:51:20 EST 1995
Article: 10654 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!hentelef
From: hentelef@access.mbnet.mb.ca (Jacob Henteleff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: work holder for disk
Date: 23 Mar 1995 05:53:36 GMT
Organization: The University of Manitoba
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <3kr2d0$4f4@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca>
References: <3kq4mb$75e@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: access.mbnet.mb.ca


What a pleasant surprise to find a fellow attorney/chip maker out there! 
I am a Barrister & Solicitor in Canada and avid metal worker.

You didn't mention the material of the disk you are turning. If it is 
steel try soft soldering it to a steel bar that can then be chucked in the 
the lathe. Once the turning is done unsolder the part. I once did this to 
turn a cone shaped thrust washer for a Triumph TR6 gearbox. It worked 
like a charm.

For aluminum the idea of pressing it with a button is a good idea.

Jacob Henteleff


From KEOliver@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:21 EST 1995
Article: 10655 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: KEOliver@ix.netcom.com (Kevin Oliver)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cutting sheet metal (mild steel)
Date: 23 Mar 1995 22:10:23 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 16
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3ksrkf$f65@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
References: <3kdbbb$2ij$1@perth.DIALix.oz.au> <3kdv3u$6ti@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <xlch58D5wp6B.Mvz@netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dfw4-13.ix.netcom.com


>  Can I come over an watch when you machine magnesium at 20,000 rpm 
with
>a very fine feed, resulting in very fine chips?  
>

Please give your next of kin my business card before you do this.
-- 


KEOliver@ix.netcom.com

Tasteless Attorney at Law

My law firm doesn't like me stirring up trouble, so
don't pay attention to anything I have to say.


From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Sun Mar 26 11:51:22 EST 1995
Article: 10656 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!news.cerf.net!pelican!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: Steam Engine Wanted
Message-ID: <1995Mar23.061728.9745@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <D5uCwv.2yv@boi.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 06:17:28 GMT
Lines: 16

robc@boi.hp.com (Rob Cummings) writes:


>Does anyone out there have a small steam engine they would like to sell.
>I would like to find about a 5-10 hp engine to tinker with and possibly
>run a air compresser, generator, well pump, etc. E-mail to robc@hpbs4550
>.boi.hp.com
>Thanks a bunch
>Rob C

It may be the perspective, but 5-10 hp steam engines IMHO are not small.
I've just finished a small engine, maybe .1 hp on a good day.....
(27.3 cu in but Shearline will lete me enter it anyway)
-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From timj@lofty.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:23 EST 1995
Article: 10657 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!news.dell.com!loft386!timj
From: timj@lofty.com (Tim Jensen)
Subject: Re: air compressor: quiet air supply
Message-ID: <1995Mar23.042016.23078@lofty.com>
Organization: Lofty Pursuits Public Access Unix for Rapid City, SD USA
References: <janecek-1503952118580001@janecek.tezcat.com> <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 04:20:16 GMT
Lines: 30

In article <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com>, rcj@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com (R.C. Jones) writes:
> 
> I have a Sears 3 hp air compressor that is about five years old.
> When I use it for extended buffing/polishing now, it generates
> an "expensive"  knocking sound that makes me think I'll need to
> get a new one soon.
>  Is there an FAQ on compressors? Could anyone recommend a preferred model?
> I've heard that the "beltless/oil-less" ones are not so good. Comments
> would be sincerely appreciated.
> -- 
>   |___________________________________________________________________| 
> >>| Dik Jones, Earth Model Interpretation   Internet: rcj@Chevron.com |
>   | Chevron Petroleum Technology Company.        Tel:  (310) 694-7056 | 
>   | La Habra, California 90633-0446              Fax:  (310) 694-7063 |  

  

  Hmmm.. I have a Sears 5 hp model that has made an expensive sounding
knock right from the start :-) It seems to work ok for the price though.
  I would certainly stay away from the oilless direct drive compressors.
For quiet operation any of the good compressors with a cast iron pump
are ok. Expect to pay $1000.00 + for a good 3 hp. That's why I have a Sears
with an aluminum pump. Another idea might be to buy a good pump to put on 
your existing Sears tank. That's what I intend to if the pump on my Sears
ever quits. Devillbess(sp??) makes excellent pumps as does Gardner-Denver.
Sanborn pumps are good too, or at least they used to be. Check with 
W. W. Grainger. They sell compressors and pumps along with tons of other
stuff. Hope this helps

 


From timj@lofty.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:24 EST 1995
Article: 10658 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!news.dell.com!loft386!timj
From: timj@lofty.com (Tim Jensen)
Subject: Collets for MT 3 spindle
Message-ID: <1995Mar23.042821.23134@lofty.com>
Organization: Lofty Pursuits Public Access Unix for Rapid City, SD USA
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 95 04:28:21 GMT
Lines: 9


  I have a model 815 Logan lathe that I would like to equip with collets
and closure. The headstock spindle is threaded 1 1/2  8 t.p.i. with a
number 3 MT. Obviously 5C collets are too big for this spindle. What would
be my best choice for collets for this lathe? 

  Thanks, Tim Jensen




From tannerd@clipper.robadome.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:25 EST 1995
Article: 10659 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcomsv!uu3news.netcom.com!dodge!news
From: tannerd@clipper.robadome.com (David Tanner)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cutting sheet metal (mild steel)
Date: 23 Mar 1995 21:07:32 GMT
Organization: Siemens Rolm Communications, Inc.
Lines: 10
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3ksnuk$gg4@dodge.eng.sc.rolm.com>
References: <3kjtgr$ga1@fermat.mayo.edu>
Reply-To: tannerd@clipper.robadome.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: beetle.eng.sc.rolm.com

In article <3kjtgr$ga1@fermat.mayo.edu>, jcraighead@mayo.edu (Jim Craighead) writes:
> A router will turn too fast. Since most hand tools use a "universal" type
>of motor, you could use a lamp dimmer (check the current rating on your
>router and on the dimmer) to control the speed of the router. I would use
>a carbide bit.

I thought that carbide was much more brittle than hss. You never
have problems with the edge chipping?




From richley@parc.xerox.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:26 EST 1995
Article: 10660 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!news.pop.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!biosci!parc!richley
From: richley@parc.xerox.com (Ed Richley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: WANTED: How to WELD CAST IRON
Date: 20 Mar 1995 16:29:59 GMT
Organization: Xerox Palo Alto Research Center
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <3kkai7$sl9@news.parc.xerox.com>
References: <tkopeD5M563.A22@netcom.com> <3kdtjk$6gt@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: wren.parc.xerox.com

I've just recently been doing some nickel welding on cast iron. It's not
trivial, at least with an AC welder, but it's not terribly difficult, either.
I'm just now getting the hang of it (now that I'm done...). I used
Ni-99 rods because I needed machinability. There are also Ni-Fe rods,
which are less expensive but not machinable. The difficult part is patience.
You really have to let the casting cool down between passes, to prevent 
stress cracking and hardening. I don't exactly understand why this is the
case, but it seems to be true. Alternatively, there is (supposedly) a
way to preheat the casting, but I didn't have a large furnace. 

Also, there was an article in HSM (Jan/Feb 1991) about this. If anyone
needs this, I can copy it.

I'd like to hear anyone else's results.


Ed



From Wayne.Cochrane@telos.org Sun Mar 26 11:51:28 EST 1995
Article: 10661 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!ub!netfs.dnd.ca!dgbt!nott!torn!news.uunet.ca!uunet.ca!telos!Wayne.Cochrane
From: Wayne.Cochrane@telos.org (Wayne Cochrane)
Date: 23 Mar 95 16:21:06 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: cutting sheet metal (mild steel)
Message-ID: <354_9503231632@telos.org>
X-Mail-Agent: GIGO+ sn 127 at telos vsn 0.99 pl1
X-FTN-To: xlch58@netcom.com
Organization: TELOS Communications Inc.
Lines: 11

In [(INT) REC.CRAFTS.METALWORKING] on <23 Mar 95  18:39>, xlch58@netcom.com
wrote to All:

 xl> : I would not suggest  using a router on any other metal except maybe
 xl> : magnesium.

 xl>  Can I come over an watch when you machine magnesium at 20,000 rpm with
 xl> a very fine feed, resulting in very fine chips? 

And very likely a large flare.  That you won't put out!!!! That's the makings
for some real trouble.....


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:51:29 EST 1995
Article: 10662 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.mathworks.com!hookup!news.moneng.mei.com!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,comp.robotics,sci.electronics,sci.electronics.cad
Subject: Re: Need help on doing a NC retrofit to a SHERLINE mill
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking,comp.robotics,sci.electronics,sci.electronics.cad
Date: 17 Mar 1995 19:52:56 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <3kcpao$1cl@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <jay_d.17.00263D85@rmii.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:10662 comp.robotics:18468 sci.electronics:108790 sci.electronics.cad:2260

Jay de Halas (jay_d@rmii.com) wrote:
: Hi; 

: Can anyone give me pointers on doing a NC retrofit to a Sherline milling 
: machine? 


: **** I would like to talk to anyone who has an interest in homebrew NC. ****

I have a strong interest in homebrewing NC.  I have a manual Bridgeport mill.
I have the X/Y drives (motors, encoders, leadscrews) out of an Excellon
NC drill for PC boards, and want to mount it on the bridgport.  I have
decided to use an old PC as the controller, so I can read floppies from
other CAD programs.  I will use the National Semiconductor LM628/629
controller chip to control the motor drives.  the 628 has analog output,
the 629 is PWM, which is what I will use.  I have some new digital shaft
encoders I will put on the leadscrews to replace the resolvers, because
they are too expensive to read out.  It will have .0001" resolution.
I have a field of lighted pushbutton switches from an industrial controller
that I will use for mode selections, etc.

I have a few other projects that are already started, and so I need to
finish them first.  Then it will be on to the NC project.


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:30 EST 1995
Article: 10663 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Anvil making Process
Date: 20 Mar 1995 19:15:21 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 89
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3kl5qp$kbb@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I've had so many request for the specifics of my process that I thought
I'd just post it here and save some time. My main inerest in promoting
this is to see more good anvils out there for people to use rather than to
sit in antique stores with outrageous prices on them. I don't realy price
these to make much money . I basicly cover my costs by charging $2.00 /
lb. for unfinished and $2.50 -$3.00 / lb. for finished anvils.

 Okay 
The process is actually rather simple in concept; it just deals with
really thick steel in a rather nasty way.
Start with a pattern for your anvil . Either trace an existing anvil or
design your own. Next decide how heavy you want it to be. In general 4
inch plate yields an anvil of around 200 lbs., if you go by a 1905 anvil
pattern. So 3 inch yields 150 lbs.and 5 inch yields 250 lbs.
You will need an oxy acet. cutting torch capable of cutting the plate 
thickness you choose and 2 - 240 cu. ft. tanks of oxygen.
Go to a scrap yard nearby and find a chunk of steel that is big enough for
your pattern . Say about 30 inches by 18 inches by 4 inches. If you buy
new steel you will pay through the nose. Scrap runs between 10 and 20
cents per pound. New steel costs  between 90 cents and $1.50 a pound.
Layout your pattern on the steel and cut it out . Trust me, I have done a
lot of oxygen cutting and I was unprepared for just how nasty cutting 4
inch plate could be. It takes a steady hand and a very regular speed to
get a cut that is even remotely nice. This process was so unpleasant that
after cutting my first anvil I immediatly looked for a company with a
computer controlled cutting torch. I decided that if I was going to do
this for any one else there was no way I would hand cut another anvil.
After you have the cut blank  profile, you have to do a couple of bevel
torch cuts by hand to give the shape to the horn. Also don't forget the
hardy hole. The pritchel hole can be drilled (thank god). As well to start
the hardy hole torch cut you should drill a hole to start the cut in.
After all the torch work is done, knock off all the slag and scale .
 Hence beginneth the grinding .
Use a large right angle hand grinder to grind the rough shape of the
anvil. The better your torch cut was , the less grinding you have to do.
Don't worry about getting a perfect finish yet.
After you have all the rough grinding done you will need to hardface the
face of the anvil and also the top of the horn . To do this you will
either need a stick welder capable of at least 200 amps or a mig welder
capable of 200-250 amps and able to push .045 wire. .045 is the smallest
hard facing wire made due to the difficulty of drawing it any smaller. 

If you are stick welding it is best if you preheat the anvil to about 400
degrees F. This will help to prevent cracking of the hardface due to
cooling to fast. The weapon of choice is a propane weed burner since it
can't get it too hot. To check the temperature you should get a Tempilaque
stick . It's a kind of crayon that can be purchased in sets of temperature
ranges. When the crayon melts on contact you have reached the temp marked
on the stick. I believe you can get these from centaur forge. It is best
to lay down a layer of whats called build up rod . It's not as hard as the
true hard facing and acts as a kind of cushion . Also it's best to not to
build the surface too thick too fast. About an 1/8 inch at a time with a
thorough cleaning between layers. Once you have the desired coverage you
should bury the anvil in Lime or vermiculite to let it cool down slowly.

If you are using a mig welder, you can skip the preheat and slow-cool-down
stages since the hard facing wire is much more forgiving than the stick
rod. Also if you use a mig you can actually see what you are laying down
since there is no layer of slag to be chipped off between passes. But
still don't lay down too much in one place at a time. It's best to do
about 2 layers over the whole surface than try to lay it down all at once.
 
And the grinding beginneth yet again. Yeah verily.
Once the anvil has cooled down , grind , grind , grind  and , oh yes ,
grind some more, until you have the anvil of your dreams.
If you use a cup wheel on a 7 inch or 9 inch Right Angle grinder you will
find it easier to get a flat face . For the final polishing of the
surfaces invest in some "flapper" style sanding wheels of say 40, 60, and
100 grit . On a 4-1/2 inch right angle grinder they are just great for
finishing.

All that is left is to weld on a couple of feet to stabilize it and
possibly to mount it to your block and there you have it . So simple and
quick ( sarcasm).

Really it is a lot of work but you will get a really great anvil and there
aren't too many people who can honestly say they have made a real anvil.(
Rail road track doesn't count.)
 Good luck 

***********************************************************
*                    Ernie Leimkuhler                     *
*                 Stagesmith Productions                  *              *
               Custom Metal Fabrication                 *                 
   
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
*                      Renton, WA                         *
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
***********************************************************


From dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:32 EST 1995
Article: 10664 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!kaleka.seanet.com!dmauch.seanet.com!dmauch
From: dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Enco Mill and CCNC
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 01:51:13 GMT
Organization: OSD, Inc.
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <dmauch.7.2F722591@dmauch.seanet.com>
References: <dmauch.2.2F70E7D6@dmauch.seanet.com> <3kqsjh$26cm@tequesta.gate.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dmauch.seanet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]



>Could your stepper motor be loosing/missing steps???  I have found that
>too high of a move rate will cause missed steps, thus inacurate movement.
>Also overloading can cause missed steps, as in too small of a power supply
>or motor too small for application.

No. It is not losing steps. I manually turned the hand crank and found that 
turing the x axis dial .1 that the dial indicator moved .103.


From danw@panix.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:33 EST 1995
Article: 10665 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!panix!not-for-mail
From: danw@panix.com (Dan Wold)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Hi-Freq module for mobile TIG
Date: 20 Mar 1995 21:16:59 -0500
Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC
Lines: 56
Message-ID: <3klcur$jin@panix.com>
References: <3khnqn$46e@panix.com> <3kigbh$i8p$1@perth.DIALix.oz.au> <3kj6hu$e1t@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> <3147cb$de34.2f@bilbo.analogic.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: panix.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Michael Kline (mkline@analogic.com) wrote:
: hodne@cedar.cic.net (Craig Hodne) wrote:
: > 
: > High frequency current is essential for TIG welding aluminum as the high 
: > frequency current breaks up the oxide coating on the surface of the 
: > aluminum.  Without the HF, you will have to break up the oxide 
: > mechanically, which does not produce as sound a weld.
: > 
:   I don't think this is exactly correct. In the TIG welding course
: that I took it was explained that the high freq attachment kept
: the argon ionized when the main AC power crossed through zero.
: tests of aluminum welding with just an old Miller Buzz-box and
: an air cooled TIG torch showed that without the high Freq attachment
: you could still weld aluminum but the amperage had to be cranked up
: so high that you burned thru anything less than 1/4" thick.

I go along with Mike's analysis above. The effect of the main AC weld
current crossing through zero can be experienced by setting up to weld 1/8"
alum plate (for example) , run a bead with hi-freq on, then run a bead with
it shut off- it doesn't work very well as the arc stutters or shuts down
completely.

: 	I too would be interested in any schematics or documentation
: on building a high freq attachment. I think I could build something
: now that would generate the high voltage but I'm a little worried
: about what it would do to me when I Zap myself as I know I will.
: A high enough frequency should handle this aspect but I too am 
: unclear as to how to couple the high freq in.

I believe the hi-freq is coupled in with air-core coil transformer. About 5
or 6 years ago I had the cover off my old AIRCO AC-only "Heli-Arc" and
remember seeing an air-core coil about 4" diam and about 8" long. This coil
must be energized by another coil which produces the main boost to
hi-voltage. Maybe an automotive type spark coil would work?

In my shop I have a 375 amp Lincoln TIG. Without grounding my body to the
welding table I can start the hi-freq arc on my fingertip and pull it out to
about 1/2" before it breaks. After 3-4 seconds of arcing my finger will feel
warm but I don't get any sensation of electrocuting myself. This is a
very nice feature! And it never fails to impress visitors when I strike a
buzzing little arc on my finger. Another aspect of hi-freq is EMI or
radio-noise. My shop Lincoln seems to supress EMI very well. I play a radio
constantly and the lady in the antique store above me plays her TV all day
too, both without interference.  

: 	Any knowledgable welder/electrical engineers out There?

I've lost the owners manual to my TIG. :-(  Maybe someone has one they can
look at for schematics. 

-Dan
-- 
danw@panix.com
Daniel Wold                               239 City Island Ave,Bronx,NY,10464
finger danw@danw.dialup.access.net
Sysop: WORLD CITIZEN BBS  718-885-2346  14.4  24 hrs  FREE  Fidonet BahaiNet


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:35 EST 1995
Article: 10666 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade Anvils
Date: 23 Mar 1995 03:45:04 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 21
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3krceg$4hg@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <1995Mar22.182436.18243@ttinews.tti.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

As the instigator of this discussion I can say that I've mad eclose to 60
anvils , about 45 of them were Railroad anvils.
Your idea of inverting the rail to get a larger surface would probably
work except  for the fact that rail is flame hardened on top at the
factory . The base is left soft . Rail is basicly a 9230 steel ( manganese
- silicon ) It welds okay but depending on how hard the track was used the
top surface may be micro-fractured. If it is and you weld to it,  it will
probably crack if you don't preheat it to about 400 degrees F.
I'd say that it would give you a bigger face but you should try to find a
relatively new piece of rail or you will be grinding forever to get the
rust off the bottom.
 Good luck
***********************************************************
*                    Ernie Leimkuhler                     *
*                 Stagesmith Productions                  *              *
               Custom Metal Fabrication                 *                 
   
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
*                      Renton, WA                         *
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
***********************************************************


From thompson@psy.fsu.edu Sun Mar 26 11:51:36 EST 1995
Article: 10667 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!gatech!mailer.fsu.edu!ronpc.psy.fsu.edu!thompson
From: thompson@psy.fsu.edu (Ron Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 13:52:45 GMT
Organization: Psychology Dept., FSU
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <thompson.235.2F717D2D@psy.fsu.edu>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net> <3kqvdl$83a@kelly.teleport.com> <3krtib$4q7@jazzmin.vnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ronpc.psy.fsu.edu
Keywords: slang

In article <3krtib$4q7@jazzmin.vnet.net> murr@jazzmin.vnet.net (murr rhame) writes:

>carla2@teleport.com (Carla Fong) writes:

>>When I went to work for a large west coast electronics manufacturer in 
>>the late 1960's, the term "Government Project" or G-Job was well 
>>established. As it was my first job, I wasn't sure of the protocol or 
>>terminology, and thought my leg was being pulled when i was told to refer 
>>to personal projects as "Government" jobs.

>The usage seems to be pretty widespread with longstanding roots.  I had a
>little trouble with it when I was first heard it used in a shop class. 
>(Thought he was doing work for the school. :-)  This must be related to the
>phrase "close enough for government work".  If you have ever done actual
>US government contract work you know that the federal government is famous
>for over specifying everything.  Close enough for personal use makes much
>more sense. 

>- murr -

My understanding is that when you refer to "goverment work" is that you are 
really doing personal work on goverment time. And for close enough for... I 
understand that one to mean that if you are doing it for yourself you would 
have taken more care but the sorry job you did is "close enough for 
goverment work". 

Ron



Ron Thompson                      |     Internet:  thompson@psy.fsu.edu
Psychology Dept.                  |     Voice:     904-644-5563
Florida State University          |     FAX:       904-644-7739
Tallahassee,  FL 32306-1051       |     Amateur Radio N4FHO


From jhall@nbnet.nb.ca Sun Mar 26 11:51:37 EST 1995
Article: 10668 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news.unb.ca!nbt.nbnet.nb.ca!news
From: jhall@nbnet.nb.ca (John W.Hall)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steam Engine Wanted
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 10:03:29 -0400
Organization: NB*Net
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <3krv4f$r25@darwin.nbnet.nb.ca>
References: <D5uCwv.2yv@boi.hp.com> <1995Mar23.061728.9745@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jhall.nbnet.nb.ca
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent v0.38

barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman) wrote:

>It may be the perspective, but 5-10 hp steam engines IMHO are not small.

>    - Barry Workman 

Yes indeed! They are not for the livingroom! I once owned a "small"
mill engine of about seven hp.The idea was to run a cutoff saw for
stove wood and have fun blowing a whistle. The engine was a full load
for a half ton, size wise, and an overload weightwise, so it must have
been about fifteen hundred pounds and about seven by four feet. The
boiler I had was about three by five verticle and I could only get
enough steam to run at about 20 rpm, as I recall, Nowhere near enough
to do any work. It_was_fun though.:-) I ultimately traded the whole
rig for a lovely little twenty foot boat with a make and break engine.
That too is since gone :-(. I keep dreaming about building a boat
around a three or four horse steam engine, if I could ever find one.
Maybe fifteen years ago there was somebody down south (Florida?) who
offered a set of castings for something like a three horse verticle
but it was pricey.

-	John Hall



From dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:38 EST 1995
Article: 10669 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!kaleka.seanet.com!dmauch.seanet.com!dmauch
From: dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking,comp.robotics,sci.electronics,sci.electronics.cad
Subject: Re: Need help on doing a NC retrofit to a SHERLINE mill
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 14:31:28 GMT
Organization: OSD, Inc.
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <dmauch.5.2F718640@dmauch.seanet.com>
References: <jay_d.17.00263D85@rmii.com> <3kcpao$1cl@newsreader.wustl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dmauch.seanet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.crafts.metalworking:10669 comp.robotics:18471 sci.electronics:108806 sci.electronics.cad:2262

In article <3kcpao$1cl@newsreader.wustl.edu> jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) writes:
>From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
>Subject: Re: Need help on doing a NC retrofit to a SHERLINE mill
>Date: 17 Mar 1995 19:52:56 GMT

>Jay de Halas (jay_d@rmii.com) wrote:

>I have a few other projects that are already started, and so I need to
>finish them first.  Then it will be on to the NC project.
I have built several  (7) CNC machines. They all run on inexpensive software, 
a computer and a 3axis controller. I may be able to help




From gbb@tezcat.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:40 EST 1995
Article: 10670 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!tezcat.com!tezcat.com!gbb
From: gbb@tezcat.com (gary beggan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Would anyone recommend a Prazi Mill?
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 08:30:03
Organization: crao
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <gbb.1.00088080@tezcat.com>
References: <3kgdtl$6t2@rs10.tcs.tulane.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crao.tezcat.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

In article <3kgdtl$6t2@rs10.tcs.tulane.edu> pchin@mailhost.tcs.tulane.edu writes:
>From: pchin@mailhost.tcs.tulane.edu
>Subject: Would anyone recommend a Prazi Mill?
>Date: 19 Mar 1995 05:02:45 GMT

>Does anyone recommend a Prazi Mill?  I would like to know if it is 
>good machine and is it worth the price?  Thanks.
I have the 5 inch lath with the mill attachment and have found it to be 
excellent for making small engines.


From ian_kirby@uow.edu.au Sun Mar 26 11:51:41 EST 1995
Article: 10671 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!munnari.oz.au!mel.dit.csiro.au!its.csiro.au!dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!metro!wabbit.cc.uow.edu.au!mac1927.uow.edu.au!Ian Kirby
From: ian_kirby@uow.edu.au (Ian Kirby)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: "drilling" non-round holes (was: square drill bits)
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 08:14:47 +1000
Organization: University of Wollongong
Lines: 27
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <ian_kirby-210395081447@mac1927.uow.edu.au>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mac1927.uow.edu.au

  Most of the responses in the thread of square drill bits are close, but
not quite accurate in their ability to create a "shaped" hole.
  There is a way that very accurate holes can be created though.  The main
difference is that a single-point cutting edge is used, not a drill in the
conventional sense.
  Remember a toy called (in Australia, anyway) Spirograph?  Little plastic
gears with various pencil holes in them, running around other plastic
shapes with complementary teeth, and the pencil would draw all sorts of
shapes.  Well, certain configurations could be set up to draw very accurate
square, triangular, penta- and hex shapes.  If the pencil is replaced by a
single-pointy cutting tool, and downfeed applied in a pre-drilled hole, the
required shape can be cut.    
  These tools are called planetary cutter heads, or something similar, and
are available commercially, although very expensive.  They can be run in
ordinary drilling machine spindles, much like tapping heads, where the
outside of the tool is held to prevent rotation, while the spinle drives
the cutting edge shank via its gears.  The corners of the cut shape
frequently have a small radius.
  I cannot put my hands on the reference right now, but they do exist!
Regards, Ian.
-- 
Ian Kirby.                          Ph: +61 42 213353
Dept of Mechanical Engineering,     Fax:+61 42 213101
University of Wollongong.           Email: i.kirby@uow.edu.au
Northfields Avenue,
Wollongong. 2522.
NSW Australia


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:51:42 EST 1995
Article: 10672 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bay Area Engine Modelers Meeting
Date: 21 Mar 1995 19:42:38 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <3kna7e$8s3@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <3kar4o$pq7@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> <3kdtuo$aac@newsreader.wustl.edu> <3kn07c$p3t@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Mike Rehmus (mrehmus@grayfax.com) wrote:
: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
: >
: > : Items that will be shown:
: > 
: > : High-pressure way lube oiler for use with a grease nipple-equipped 
: > : Bridgeport. (made from a small grease gun a-la Lautard)
: > 

Thanks much for the info.  I thought about doing this, but didn't know
if the grease-gun pump would work well with the much thinner oil.  I will
modify one of these right now and try it.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:51:43 EST 1995
Article: 10673 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metal ball
Date: 21 Mar 1995 19:47:13 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <3knag1$8s3@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <D5srtu.4FJ@inter.NL.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Mark Bloemendaal (mbloemen@inter.NL.net) wrote:
: Hello, world

: I'm searching for a light hollow metal ball that can be attracted by 
: magnetism. The ball must have a diameter of about 5 to 8 centimetre and 
: must be as light as possible.

I believe Small Parts Inc. in Florida, has what you need.  Their address
and phone # has been posted here recently.  If you don't have it, send me
E-mail and I will get it for you tonight.



From rays@acad.stedwards.edu Sun Mar 26 11:51:45 EST 1995
Article: 10674 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!acad.stedwards.edu!rays
From: rays@acad.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne)
Subject: Re: cutting sheet metal (mild steel)
Message-ID: <1995Mar23.143145.13687@acad.stedwards.edu>
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 14:31:45 GMT
References: <3kdbbb$2ij$1@perth.DIALix.oz.au> <3kdv3u$6ti@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3kkv8f$rg1@news1.svc>
Organization: St. Edward's University
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Lines: 18

Mike Rehmus (mrehmus@grayfax.com) wrote:
: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) wrote:
: >
: > I use  a router all the time to cut alluminum. I use carbide bits and make
: > sure that the cutter is lubed with a wax cutting lube. I've taken some
: > pretty deep cuts on heavy plate and the most important thing to remember
: > is to maintain a slow steady feed. 



:   I use a carbide blade in my contractors saw or my radial arm saw
: to cut aluminum.  It is no harder than cutting Oak.

: Mike
The quy wants to cut mild steel.  This is quite different from aluminum.
Aluminum can be worked with many wood working tools, steel can't.




From jesus@tc.fluke.COM Sun Mar 26 11:51:46 EST 1995
Article: 10675 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!ub!news.kei.com!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!cornellcs!uw-beaver!fluke!jesus
From: jesus@tc.fluke.COM (Vincent Jesus)
Subject: Re: Tap and dies
Message-ID: <D5rILu.1wp@tc.fluke.COM>
Organization: Fluke Corporation, Everett, WA
References: <1995Mar16.193446.25449@schbbs.mot.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 23:29:50 GMT
Lines: 36

Jeff Hannon <jhannon@comspc.geg.mot.com> writes:

>Background: I'm pretty new to metalworking but have learned
>a lot by reading this group for about the last six months.

>I need to get a hand tap/die (3/8" - 14tpi) to do some engine
>rebuilding work that I'm doing. I would like to get something
>that is useful for future non-auto projects. Are taps/dies for
>aluminum different? (I have been told they are - my engine block
>is iron).

>I don't trust the quality of the taps I see at the auto parts
>stores or Sears, and I am completely overwhelmed by the
>number of different taps and dies in the Travers catalog I
>have.

>I'd like to buy good to high quality tools but I don't know what
>makes a good one and what doesn't in this case. What should I be
>looking for? Any brand/company recommendations? Should I go for
>one at a time as I need them or buy a set? I'm almost certain any
>set I buy wouldn't have the one I need for the next crisis.
>The most I could afford right now is around $200. 

>==
>Jeff Hannon
>Motorola Commercial Space
>jhannon@comspc.geg.mot.com

	Jeff,
   Your best bet is to buy HSS spiral point plug tap. Regardless os the 
material your tapping. The different types may only be beneficial in a 
production environment. You may also consider using tap magic( cutting 
fluid) to make hand tapping easier. They make these fluids for aluminum
and for steel. If you use the one for steel on aluminum it will eat the 
metal. Hope this helps.



From bronne@panesu.esu14.k12.ne.us Sun Mar 26 11:51:47 EST 1995
Article: 10676 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!trinews.sbc.com!news.mid.net!news.nde.state.ne.us!panesu.esu14.k12.ne.us!bronne
From: bronne@panesu.esu14.k12.ne.us (Brad Ronne)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Calling all Tinsmiths!
Date: 24 Mar 1995 01:02:15 GMT
Organization: Nebraska Dept. of Education
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <3kt5mn$duj@news.nde.state.ne.us>
NNTP-Posting-Host: panesu.esu14.k12.ne.us
Keywords: tinsmith
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2-E1]

I would like to find an e-mail addresses of those who know the tinsmith 
trade to be able to pose questions about tools and products.

--
						Brad Ronne
						bronne@panesu.esu14.k12.ne.us




From Wayne.Cochrane@telos.org Sun Mar 26 11:51:48 EST 1995
Article: 10677 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!scipio.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!news.bc.net!torn!news.uunet.ca!uunet.ca!telos!Wayne.Cochrane
From: Wayne.Cochrane@telos.org (Wayne Cochrane)
Date: 21 Mar 95 09:30:17 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: How Do I Make A Tiny Live Center?
Message-ID: <ade_9503210951@telos.org>
X-Mail-Agent: GIGO+ sn 127 at telos vsn 0.99 pl1
X-FTN-To: Lewis Cobb External
Organization: TELOS Communications Inc.
Lines: 9

Hi there, centers this size can be purchased at hobbie stores for about $20. if
this is not possible, one can be easily made in a machine shop..I teach at a
community college full time & also run two evening machine shop courses.  The
students for these evening classes are into everything..Projects just like
yours are very popular.  I've had two complete (less the ele. parts) lathes
built in these courses.  If you can't find someone to make this for you..why
not take one of the evening courses yourself..very rewarding to accomplish by
yourself parts that you need.   



From mbloemen@inter.NL.net Sun Mar 26 11:51:49 EST 1995
Article: 10678 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!sun4nl!mbloemen
From: mbloemen@inter.NL.net (Mark Bloemendaal)
Subject: metal ball
Message-ID: <D5srtu.4FJ@inter.NL.net>
Summary: looking for comp. who can make metal ball
Keywords: manufacturing metal ball
Organization: NLnet
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 15:46:41 GMT
Lines: 15

Hello, world

I'm searching for a light hollow metal ball that can be attracted by 
magnetism. The ball must have a diameter of about 5 to 8 centimetre and 
must be as light as possible.

Does anyone know a manufactor that can make such a ball. Or has anyone an 
other idea to get this ball.

response to: steven_hulst@cme.nl

Thanks to anyone who can help me out.

Greetings
Alfons van Hallem


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:50 EST 1995
Article: 10679 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metal ball
Date: 24 Mar 1995 02:08:26 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 26
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3ktr5a$le9@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <D5srtu.4FJ@inter.NL.net>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)

Alfons van Hallem wrote;

>I'm searching for a light hollow metal ball that can be attracted by 
>magnetism. The ball must have a diameter of about 5 to 8 centimetre and 
>must be as light as possible.

>Does anyone know a manufactor that can make such a ball. Or has anyone an

>other idea to get this ball.


Contact a local metal spinning shop . They can spin the ball out of steel
in 2 halves  and then have them TIG-welded at the equator. I've done this
before and it work perfectly.
Good luck


***********************************************************
*                    Ernie Leimkuhler                     *
*                 Stagesmith Productions                  *              *
               Custom Metal Fabrication                 *                 
   
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
*                      Renton, WA                         *
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
***********************************************************


From rshingav@diamond.tufts.edu Sun Mar 26 11:51:51 EST 1995
Article: 10680 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!emerald.tufts.edu!diamond.tufts.edu!rshingav
From: rshingav@diamond.tufts.edu (Rajesh Shingavi)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Info required !
Date: 22 Mar 1995 19:02:06 GMT
Organization: Tufts University
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <3kps7e$63p@emerald.tufts.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: diamond.tufts.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

hello,
  i am looking for all the possible methods available to manufacture a 
HELICAL COIL OF STEEL WITH RECTANGULAR CROSS SECTION, which shall further 
be reinforced with PVC TUBING.
   anybody knowing a current method of getting the final product, please 
contact Rajesh Shingavi at rshingav@diamond.tufts.edu

thanks a lot
rajesh



From KSXX30A@prodigy.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:53 EST 1995
Article: 10681 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!swiss.ans.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: KSXX30A@prodigy.com (Otto Hamann)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: STEEL "WORK ROLLS" FOR ALUMINUM!!!
Date: 23 Mar 1995 16:28:41 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 30
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3ks7jp$14vg@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: inugap3.news.prodigy.com
X-Newsreader: Version 1.2

SUBJECT: STEEL "WORK ROLLS" !!!   URGENT  

COULD ANYBODY PLEASE TELL ME WHERE CAN I HAVE MADE 
4  STEEL "WORK ROLLS" FOR COLD- ROLLING ALUMINUM INGOTS?

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS:

APROXIMATE WIEGHT OF EACH ROLL IS 900 KGS ( 1980 LBS )

THESE ROLLS ARE TO BE INSTALLED ON A 2-HIGH ROLLING MILL WITH
100 HP DRIVE 

SURFACE OF ROLLS :  "MILL FINISH"

FACE / SURFACE HARDNESS:  90 - 93 HSC (SHORE)

LENGTH OF FACE :  910 mm

I WILL TRULY APPRECIATE YOUR INFO.

OTTO HAMANN                                                     
(FAX: 305 271 9953)
-
       KSXX30A@prodigy.com
 

-
       KSXX30A@prodigy.com




From Wayne.Cochrane@telos.org Sun Mar 26 11:51:54 EST 1995
Article: 10682 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.starnet.net!wupost!news.utdallas.edu!corpgate!brtph500.bnr.ca!bcarh189.bnr.ca!nott!torn!news.uunet.ca!uunet.ca!telos!Wayne.Cochrane
From: Wayne.Cochrane@telos.org (Wayne Cochrane)
Date: 23 Mar 95 10:11:16 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: work holder for disk
Message-ID: <240_9503231109@telos.org>
X-Mail-Agent: GIGO+ sn 127 at telos vsn 0.99 pl1
X-FTN-To: Kevin Oliver
Organization: TELOS Communications Inc.
Lines: 30

Hi Kevin...You didn't mention a few things that might help.

     A] What type of metal is this?

     B] How long is it?..

     C] Is this object flat on both sides or dished?

     if it is flat on at least one side, 1" or less in thickness & made of a
magnetic material such as steel then we have a few options (sounds like a
lawyer) anyway two things that come right to mind.

     A] a magnetic chuck maybe used..

     B] Can you reverse your lathe chuck jaws to hold on the outside dia.

     C] If thick enough, you could drill & tap a few holding holes then bolt it
to the face plate or a "dummy plate" held in the 3 or 4 jaw chuck.



     With out more detail I believe we'll have to go to pre-court discovery or
something like that for further investication porceedings..wow

     Seriously, if you can provide any more info or help in future projects
feel free to drop a note.  

     I'm a Tool & Die Maker by trade, but employed at a local college as a
professor in the mechincal areas with esp. in the trades relating to my field.



From Barronr@cc.ims.disa.mil Sun Mar 26 11:51:55 EST 1995
Article: 10683 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!usenet
From: Barronr@cc.ims.disa.mil
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: lathe attaachments.
Date: 22 Mar 1995 21:04:47 GMT
Organization: InterServ News Service
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <3kq3df$84b@data.interserv.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 164.117.162.111
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

I am looking for the threading attachment and the slow speed pulley attachment
for the Unimat SL lathe.  Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

                                                                                           Reg Barron



From WQ@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:56 EST 1995
Article: 10684 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: WQ@ix.netcom.com (Scott Hirsch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Sources for bearings
Date: 22 Mar 1995 15:45:03 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 5
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3kpglv$893@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
References: <1735AB7F3S86.PRUITER@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca> <1995Ma <9503211920572474@nwcs.org> <3ko7mo$ohf@taco.cc.ncsu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-tf3-10.ix.netcom.com


Looking for bearing in the 1" to 2" range for a bearing rest on a lathe.  Need many.  Any suggestions on the most economical source for 
bearing?  Thanks.  Scott Hirsch, WQ@ix.netcom.com




From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:57 EST 1995
Article: 10685 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!olivea!decwrl!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Bay Area Engine Modelers Meeting
Date: 21 Mar 1995 16:51:56 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 34
Message-ID: <3kn07c$p3t@news1.svc>
References: <3kar4o$pq7@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> <3kdtuo$aac@newsreader.wustl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com

jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson) wrote:
>
> : Items that will be shown:
> 
> : High-pressure way lube oiler for use with a grease nipple-equipped 
> : Bridgeport. (made from a small grease gun a-la Lautard)
> 
> Gee, I would like to hear more about this.  I have one of those old 
> Bridgeports.
> 
> Thanks.

I took a conventional grease gun, a Plews mdoel 30-132,
the 1/2 size, operate with one hand type and modified it.

1 I first cut off the plunger that forces grease in the barrel
  into the pump.
2 Then I sealed the hole in the barrel cap where the plunger
  entered the barrel.
3 Then I used teflon tape to seal the barrel threads (2), and
  the tube from the pump body to the grease nipple socket (2).
4 Then I filled it with way lube, inverted the gun (it does not 
  have a pickup tube (yet)).
5 Lube the mill.

Works fine and, if I store it upright, does not leak any oil.

Next change is to add a pickup tube so that I can use it upright.

Mike

BTW, the next BAEM club meeting is a two-parter.  The first part is
a visit to Ocean Engineering, the people who made the video camera
systems that were used in the Titanic and Bismark searches.


From morle001@cerritos.edu Sun Mar 26 11:51:58 EST 1995
Article: 10686 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!news.Cerritos.edu!vax.cerritos.edu!morle001
From: morle001@cerritos.edu (Chris)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: extrusions wtd aluminium or SS
Date: 23 Mar 95 18:01:03 PST
Organization: Cerritos College, Norwalk CA
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <1995Mar23.180103.1@vax.cerritos.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: black.cerritos.edu

Hello....I am looking for a company that can do short run extrusions in
aluminium and also stainless steel.  Probably less than 100 lbs
Would you know the die charge ?


Thanks for your help...CHRIS


From rcook@BIX.com Sun Mar 26 11:51:59 EST 1995
Article: 10687 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: rcook@BIX.com (Rick Cook)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Forging a Froe
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 01:34:47
Organization: Galahad
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <3kq537$cjd@news1.delphi.com>
References: <801902550wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bix.com
X-Newsreader: Galahad 1.04

>I am probably going to regret this, but what is a froe anyway? 
>
>And while I am at it, a much more difficult question.  Why do I find 
>the look and sound of the word, irrespective of its meaning, so 
>peculiarly unpleasant?  I find it a sort of teeth on edge, finger-nails 
>on slate kind of word.  It just looks wrong somehow.  Am I alone in 
>this?  Will I be happier about it when I know what it means?
>
>--
>Charles Lamont
>
>
Makes you want to 'froe' up, eh?

A froe is a dull blade about two feet long and a couple of inches wide with
a handle set at right angles to the wide side L fashion. It is used to
split wood  along the grain by driving the froe into the wood with a club.

There's an entire tradition of woodworking that is based on splitting and
shaving the wood rather than cutting it.

--Rick Cook


From KEOliver@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:00 EST 1995
Article: 10688 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: KEOliver@ix.netcom.com (Kevin Oliver)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: work holder for disk
Date: 22 Mar 1995 21:26:35 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 21
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3kq4mb$75e@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dfw4-15.ix.netcom.com

Some background first; I am an attorney and green, rank 
beginning, amateur machinist with a Sherline lathe and mill.  I need to 
reduce the diameter of a metal disk about 1" in diameter by turning down 
its entire edge.  I need to find a way to hold the workpiece without 
drilling a hole in the piece. I tried superglue-ing the piece to a plain 
arbor and running the live center up against it, but the result was a 
lovely oval shape (not good.) It would be easier to get Rush Limbaugh to 
the center than to center this setup.  I am hoping that some of the more 
experienced machinists who read this group may be able to help me get on 
the right track.
Either email or post your ideas.
Thanks, Kevin
-- 


KEOliver@ix.netcom.com

Tasteless Attorney at Law

My law firm doesn't like me stirring up trouble, so
don't pay attention to anything I have to say.


From morle001@cerritos.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:02 EST 1995
Article: 10689 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!news.Cerritos.edu!vax.cerritos.edu!morle001
From: morle001@cerritos.edu (Chris)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: EDM saw info wanted
Date: 23 Mar 95 16:34:44 PST
Organization: Cerritos College, Norwalk CA
Lines: 3
Message-ID: <1995Mar23.163444.1@vax.cerritos.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: black.cerritos.edu

Hello....a couple of months ago there was a not about an EDM saw. Does anyone
have info on this ? Thanks.CHRIS



From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:03 EST 1995
Article: 10690 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!news.kei.com!ub!csn!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Patina Formulas
Message-ID: <1995Mar23.130814.9460@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 23 Mar 95 13:08:14 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <5+25WZo.jpfitz@delphi.com> <3kmfon$1b7@pipe6.nyc.pipeline.com> <vincent.j.miller.4.591.795795909@nd.edu>
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming
Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
Lines: 13


In article <vincent.j.miller.4.591.795795909@nd.edu>, vincent.j.miller.4@nd.edu (Vince Miller) writes:
|>I've archived all the discussions on this for the past year or so.  I'd like 
|>to edit into a useful file, but I doubt I'll ever get the time.  If anyone 
|>is up for this, let me know and I'll send it to you.

As it turns out, I've been doing exactly the same thing (gathering bits
from the archives on patinas), for a new section of the FAQ.  I'd be
glad if you'd send me your compilation, to be sure I haven't dropped any
good bits.  I'm not planning on including every bit of discussion since
the size is getting out of hand!

Jim


From lewcobb@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca Sun Mar 26 11:52:04 EST 1995
Article: 10691 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news.unb.ca!jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca!lewcobb
From: lewcobb@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Lewis Cobb External)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: 24 Mar 1995 13:04:20 GMT
Organization: University of New Brunswick, Fredericton, NB, Canada
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <3kug0k$irr@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net> <3kqvdl$83a@kelly.teleport.com> <3krtib$4q7@jazzmin.vnet.net>,<thompson.235.2F717D2D@psy.fsu.edu> <3ks4gs$qfu@news.doit.wisc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jupiter-alt3.unb.ca
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Up here in Canada (eh) I have only ever heard the term "close enough for 
government work" - I feel after reading this thread that a gap which has 
existed in my knowledge for many years has now been filled - hehe

Lewis
lewcobb@unb.ca


dholly@psl.wisc.edu wrote:
: In article <thompson.235.2F717D2D@psy.fsu.edu>, thompson@psy.fsu.edu (Ron Thompson) writes:
: [...]
: >
: >My understanding is that when you refer to "goverment work" is that you are 
: >really doing personal work on goverment time. And for close enough for... I 
: >understand that one to mean that if you are doing it for yourself you would 
: >have taken more care but the sorry job you did is "close enough for 
: >goverment work". 
: >
: >Ron
: >
: [...]

: My understanding of the origin of "government job" is that it's what you
: say in response to a co-worker who asks you what you're doing when you're
: using company equipment to work on a personal project, as in "I wish I
: could tell you what it is, but I can't -- it's a top secret job for The
: Government."


:                       ...when I sit down to write
: Don Holly             my intentions are always blameless however deplorable
:                       the ultimate effect of the act may turn out to be.
:                                            --Joseph Conrad


From amaranth@saturn.acs.oakland.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:05 EST 1995
Article: 10692 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!ulowell.uml.edu!vtc.tacom.army.mil!news1.oakland.edu!saturn.acs.oakland.edu!amaranth
From: amaranth@saturn.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cutting sheet metal (mild steel)
Date: 24 Mar 1995 13:41:45 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <3kui6p$ubd@oak.oakland.edu>
References: <3kjtgr$ga1@fermat.mayo.edu> <3ksnuk$gg4@dodge.eng.sc.rolm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: saturn.acs.oakland.edu

In article <3ksnuk$gg4@dodge.eng.sc.rolm.com> tannerd@clipper.robadome.com writes:
>In article <3kjtgr$ga1@fermat.mayo.edu>, jcraighead@mayo.edu (Jim Craighead) writes:
>> A router will turn too fast. Since most hand tools use a "universal" type
>>of motor, you could use a lamp dimmer (check the current rating on your
>>router and on the dimmer) to control the speed of the router. I would use
>>a carbide bit.
>
>I thought that carbide was much more brittle than hss. You never
>have problems with the edge chipping?
>

I've used a carbide tipped blade in a table saw for cutting aluminum and
brass.  The blade is rated for non-ferrous metals, in fact.  Slow,
steady feed is important for good results.  I still ended up chipping a
couple of teeth.  That might be less of a problem with a router.

For cutting sheet steel (1/8), I've used an abrasive cutoff blade in
a circular saw.  Worked pretty well and put up an impressive shower of
sparks.



-- 
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@oakland.edu    [Rochester, Michigan  USA]
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From jpolaski@mcs.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:06 EST 1995
Article: 10693 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!jpolaski.pr.mcs.net!user
From: jpolaski@mcs.com (Jim Polaski)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: lathe attaachments.
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 10:37:56 -0500
Organization: Polaski P/D/C
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <jpolaski-2103951037560001@jpolaski.pr.mcs.net>
References: <3kq3df$84b@data.interserv.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jpolaski.pr.mcs.net
X-Newsreader: Value-Added NewsWatcher 2.0b24.0+

In article <3kq3df$84b@data.interserv.net>, Barronr@cc.ims.disa.mil wrote:

* I am looking for the threading attachment and the slow speed pulley attachment
* for the Unimat SL lathe.  Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
* 
*                                                                                           
Reg Barron

====

Try getting catalogs from "Blue Ridge Tools" and "Campbell Tools" as they
have had Sl parts in the catalogs, but I'm not sure how much stuff isstill
available. Good Luck

-- 
jpolaski @mcs.com or jpolaski@aol.com
A photographer, musician,woodworker, graphic designer and computer consultant...Just being a traveler on the information highway!


From Don_Schmitz@transarc.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:07 EST 1995
Article: 10694 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!nntp.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!postman+
From: Don_Schmitz@transarc.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 09:11:18 -0500
Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <wjQhA6_SMV1bMrfvwB@transarc.com>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net> <3kqvdl$83a@kelly.teleport.com> <3krtib$4q7@jazzmin.vnet.net>,
 <thompson.235.2F717D2D@psy.fsu.edu>
 <3ks4gs$qfu@news.doit.wisc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: po6.andrew.cmu.edu
In-Reply-To: <3ks4gs$qfu@news.doit.wisc.edu>

>My understanding of the origin of "government job" is that it's what you
>say in response to a co-worker who asks you what you're doing when you're
>using company equipment to work on a personal project, as in "I wish I
>could tell you what it is, but I can't -- it's a top secret job for The
>Government."

The explanation I heard for this usage was that, at least in the USofA,
the government is supposed to be made up of "We the people...", hence
anything you do for yourself is also being done for the government.
In programmer circles, I've also heard the "close enough for government work"
become "close enough for rock-and-roll".

Don




From thompson@psy.fsu.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:08 EST 1995
Article: 10695 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!mailer.fsu.edu!ronpc.psy.fsu.edu!thompson
From: thompson@psy.fsu.edu (Ron Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Eisemann Magneto Co.
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 18:39:58 GMT
Organization: Psychology Dept., FSU
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <thompson.228.2F6F1D7D@psy.fsu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ronpc.psy.fsu.edu

Anyone know what happened to the Eisemann Co. I Think they are gone but I 
don't know when or if anyone carries replacement parts for their magnetos. I 
have one on a 4 cyl Kohler generator form 1926 and another that is built 
into my May tag 2 cyl from about 1940. Any info ?

thanks, Ron



Ron Thompson                      |     Internet:  thompson@psy.fsu.edu
Psychology Dept.                  |     Voice:     904-644-5563
Florida State University          |     FAX:       904-644-7739
Tallahassee,  FL 32306-1051       |     Amateur Radio N4FHO


From wildbill@ilhawaii.net Sun Mar 26 11:52:09 EST 1995
Article: 10696 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!lehua!usenet
From: "william c. wilson" <wildbill@ilhawaii.net>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: knifemaking newsgroup?
Date: 21 Mar 1995 01:09:51 GMT
Organization: InterLink Hawaii
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <3kl90v$9up@lehua.ilhawaii.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pm20.ilhawaii.net


Is there a seperate newsgroup for forging and stock reduction
knifemaking? If so what is it called?

Wildbill


From EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:10 EST 1995
Article: 10697 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!vmd.cso.uiuc.edu!EPLUS17
From: EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Entry level welding rig
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 95 09:28:53 CST
Organization: C.C.S.O.
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <1736B855D.EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu>
References: <101260008@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> <3ktpvo$l4g@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: vmd.cso.uiuc.edu

In article <3ktpvo$l4g@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) writes:
 
<lots of good stuff deleted>
 
>Buy your tanks if possible , if you rent them you will pay for them many
>times over . Also gas tanks don't realy lose value over time.
 
Around here, its difficult to get a tank filled by a supplier unless
its one of the supplier's tanks.  So, they offer a middle ground
betweem renting and buying; they call it "leasing."  For $160 plus
$18 for the argon, I got a 20 cu ft tank.  When the tank is empty, I
return the tank, get my $160 back...and start all over.  Financially,
it looks like I have bought a tank for $160, with refills at $18...
AND a guarentee that I can sell the tank back to them at anytime for
$160; I figure that the cost of having $160 tied up in a tank is
something like $8 per year in lost (after tax) investment income,
and, I agree, this is MUCH less than renting the tank.  Technically
though, the supplier owns the tank, and this is important to them.
 
Richard
 


From jwodke@efn.org Sun Mar 26 11:52:11 EST 1995
Article: 10698 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!news.uoregon.edu!mars.efn.org!usenet
From: jwodke@efn.org (James L. Wodke)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Help: Catalogs, Mail Order Houses
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 08:24:37 -0800 (PST)
Organization: Oregon Public Networking
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <3kuo9f$64k@mars.efn.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: net28.efn.org
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent v0.38

Just purchased a fine old Sears Atlas 12x48 lathe.
.
Doesn't have all of the tooling.  Local machine shop vendors are
catering to the "big guys".
.
Anybody have any information on tool catalogs, mailorder vendors or
other options, please drop me a line --> jwodke@efn.org.
.
Thanks.....

Jim



From xlch58@netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:14 EST 1995
Article: 10699 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!xlch58
From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: work holder for disk
Message-ID: <xlch58D5yD2J.27B@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <3kq4mb$75e@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> <3kr2d0$4f4@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca>
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 16:13:31 GMT
Lines: 9
Sender: xlch58@netcom12.netcom.com

Jacob Henteleff (hentelef@access.mbnet.mb.ca) wrote:

: What a pleasant surprise to find a fellow attorney/chip maker out there! 
: I once did this to 
: turn a cone shaped thrust washer for a Triumph TR6 gearbox. It worked 
: like a charm.

  What a pleasant surprise to find another TR6 Mechanic/chip maker.
I have a 73.  


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:15 EST 1995
Article: 10700 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: lathe attaachments.
Date: 24 Mar 1995 16:35:59 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <3kusdf$a35@news1.svc>
References: <3kq3df$84b@data.interserv.net> <jpolaski-2103951037560001@jpolaski.pr.mcs.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com

jpolaski@mcs.com (Jim Polaski) wrote:
>
> In article <3kq3df$84b@data.interserv.net>, Barronr@cc.ims.disa.mil wrote:
> 
> * I am looking for the threading attachment and the slow speed pulley attachment
> * for the Unimat SL lathe.  Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
> * 
> *                                                                                           
> Reg Barron
> 







Look in Model Engineer.  In some of the ads, there are claims of
SL attachments.
Mike


From janecek@tezcat.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:16 EST 1995
Article: 10701 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!tezcat.com!janecek.tezcat.com!user
From: janecek@tezcat.com (jim janecek)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anodizing aluminium????
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 11:12:58 -0600
Organization: Personal Effects inc.
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <janecek-2403951112580001@janecek.tezcat.com>
References: <237576074wnr@sywell.demon.co.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: janecek.tezcat.com

In article <237576074wnr@sywell.demon.co.uk>, ian@sywell.demon.co.uk wrote:

> Does anyone out there now anything about anodizing and dying aluminium 
> under home workshop conditions, both extrusions and machined components?
> 
> Two points:
>         I can not aford a temperature controlled bath..  :-(
>         I am *British* so American suppliers are close to useless.

Can you order a book over there in the UK?
You guys read, right, oh yeah, you wrote the post! ;->

Anyways I have a very good book called:

ARTISTS ANODIZING ALUMINUM- the sulphuric acid process.
by David LaPlantz
ISBN: 0-942002-03-2
I think its published by:
Press de LaPlantz inc.
po box 220 Bayside, CA USA 95524

Its about $20

The book is extremely thorough and contains several methods of anodizing
with lots of pictures and references.

It is intended for small individual pieces, such as you describe, at home
in the garage or basement.

-- 
Jim Janecek
janecek@tezcat.com
Personal Effects inc.


From murr@jazzmin.vnet.net Sun Mar 26 11:52:18 EST 1995
Article: 10702 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!ralph.vnet.net!jazzmin.vnet.net!not-for-mail
From: murr@jazzmin.vnet.net (murr rhame)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: 23 Mar 1995 08:37:15 -0500
Organization: Vnet Internet Access, Inc. - Charlotte, NC. (704) 374-0779
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <3krtib$4q7@jazzmin.vnet.net>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net> <3kqvdl$83a@kelly.teleport.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jazzmin.vnet.net
Keywords: slang

carla2@teleport.com (Carla Fong) writes:

>When I went to work for a large west coast electronics manufacturer in 
>the late 1960's, the term "Government Project" or G-Job was well 
>established. As it was my first job, I wasn't sure of the protocol or 
>terminology, and thought my leg was being pulled when i was told to refer 
>to personal projects as "Government" jobs.

The usage seems to be pretty widespread with longstanding roots.  I had a
little trouble with it when I was first heard it used in a shop class. 
(Thought he was doing work for the school. :-)  This must be related to the
phrase "close enough for government work".  If you have ever done actual
US government contract work you know that the federal government is famous
for over specifying everything.  Close enough for personal use makes much
more sense. 

- murr -


From mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:19 EST 1995
Article: 10703 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.ksu.ksu.edu!news.mid.net!crcnis3.unl.edu!unlinfo.unl.edu!mjj
From: mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu (michael jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tap and dies
Date: 24 Mar 1995 17:34:51 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <3kuvrr$c1o@crcnis3.unl.edu>
References: <1995Mar16.193446.25449@schbbs.mot.com> <3kmmq1$51q@crcnis3.unl.edu> <3kpnn4$196@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: unlinfo2.unl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Mike Rehmus (mrehmus@grayfax.com) wrote:
: mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu (michael jensen) wrote:
:  
: The difference between a good general purpose tap and die and one specifically made for 
: aluminum is moot when you are tapping by hand.

: Michael,

: After tapping with both types of tap into aluminum, I cannot agree 
: with you.  An aluminum tap takes much less torque to drive, the
: difference increases markedly with the size of the tapped hole.

: 1/4-20 is very noticable.  At 1/2 inch, the effect is startling.

: Mike Rehmus


Mike R;

     You have to take into account the original poster was originally 
going to use the tap and die for a iron engine.  In a perfect world we
would all have access to the tap or die designed for that material.  
My point, If you have limited funds you are better of with a general 
purpose tap and die then one specifically designed for a particullar 
material.  After all, if you have only a tap designed for cutting 
aluminum it will probabilty not work very well tapping stainless 
steel.  But, you could use that general purpose tap for stainless 
steel, aluminum, steel, etc..
     I stand by my point that it is a moot issue when you are tapping 
by hand using a good general purpose tap verse a aluminum tap.  If you are 
in a production enviroment that would be a different story 
altogeather. You will have reduced frictional forces using a aluminum 
tap to cut aluminum.  But a good general purpose tap that can cut 
steel will be strong enough to cut aluminum.  Also a general purpose 
tap is about 1/2 the price.

Mike J. 
     
     
--
Mike Jensen (MJJ@UNL.EDU) 
Chemistry Instrument Shop              
University of Nebraska - Lincoln
(402) 472-3542


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:20 EST 1995
Article: 10704 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: metal ball
Date: 22 Mar 1995 05:40:48 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <3kod90$ha3@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <D5srtu.4FJ@inter.NL.net> <3knag1$8s3@newsreader.wustl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

: Mark Bloemendaal (mbloemen@inter.NL.net) wrote:
: : Hello, world

: : I'm searching for a light hollow metal ball that can be attracted by 
: : magnetism. The ball must have a diameter of about 5 to 8 centimetre and 
: : must be as light as possible.

: I believe Small Parts Inc. in Florida, has what you need.  Their address
: and phone # has been posted here recently.  If you don't have it, send me
: E-mail and I will get it for you tonight.

Small parts, Inc. is at (US) 800-220-4242.  International callers can use
US 305-558-1255.

They call the items Stainless Steel Floats, Page 55 of their catalog.
Spherical floats are in 2", 3" and 4" diameters.
Tubular floats of 1.25" and 1.875" diameters are also available.


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Sun Mar 26 11:52:21 EST 1995
Article: 10705 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM!usenet
From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steam Engine Wanted
Date: 24 Mar 1995 17:55:02 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <3kv11m$m1@engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM>
References: <3krv4f$r25@darwin.nbnet.nb.ca>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com


A 5->10 hp steam engine doesn't _have_ to weigh 1000 lbs;
it's just that a lot of the old machinery was designed to 
run for many years.

Perhaps the easiest way of getting such an engine is to get
a hold of an old Wisconsin vertical twin industrial gas engine.
They're about 3.25 x 3.25 bore and stroke, and if you remove
the head & valves and make a simple slide valve head, you can
get a 5->8 hp steam engine (depending on rpm, etc) with minimal
machine work.  Be sure and run a non-detergent oil and change
it frequently.  If you use a poppet-valve head and high-pressure,
superheated steam you can get a lot more power, of course.

My 19' steam launch has an engine converted from a refrigeration
compressor; it is only 2x2.5 (two single acting cylinders) and
puts out 2 hp or so (pushes the boat at 6 mph) when fed with
125 psi, 475 F steam.

- Bart Smaalders






From bgiller@mitre.org Sun Mar 26 11:52:25 EST 1995
Article: 10706 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!world!blanket.mitre.org!linus.mitre.org!Bruce.Giller
From: bgiller@mitre.org (Bruce Giller)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Reading a Caliper
Date: 23 Mar 1995 13:50:59 GMT
Organization: The Mitre Corporation
Lines: 28
Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[7007]
Message-ID: <3kruc3$ns8@linus.mitre.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bgiller-mac.mitre.org
X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0@linus.mitre.org.
Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name.

I have a 6" caliper that measures in both inches and mm.  It is
supposed to go down to the .001 level but I haven't figured out how to
do that; I can get to the .1 level easy enough.

The 'moving' part of the caliper has an inch long scale attached to it
that starts with 0 and ends with 25 and says "1/1000"on the scale.  I
use the 0 mark to figure out the .1 level  by where it lines up with
the 'non moving' scale.  In between the .1 marks are four marks which
correspond to a .025 level.  If the 0 lines up with one of these four
marks, I just add .025 to the measurement.  But when it is inbetween,
I'm lost.   I assume that the other marks on the 'moving'  scale are
for the .001 level but I am unable to figure out how to read them.  Has
anyone any experience with a caliper like this?

I'm thinking of getting a dial caliper to help me with this problem;
any suggestions of a brand for intermittent use?  How are the
measurment tools from Harbor Freight and Salvage rated?

RE: Walker-Turner drill press spindle:
It turned out that the spindle itself was straight except for the
sections were the bearings sat; these were slightly out-of-round.  A
few rotations on a friends' lathe, and now the new bearings slip right
on.  Thanks for the help.


Bruce Giller

"Is dis a System????"   Mr. Natural


From dfalk@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca Sun Mar 26 11:52:26 EST 1995
Article: 10707 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!news.duke.edu!agate!news.mindlink.net!vanbc.wimsey.com!sqwest!dfalk
From: dfalk@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca (David Falk)
Subject: Re: Which Gas ? knifemaker
Message-ID: <1995Mar25.004018.5788@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca>
Organization: SoftQuad Inc.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <3kv9h9$49d@uuneo.neosoft.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 1995 00:40:18 GMT
Lines: 13

Vance Burns (dollar@starbase.neosoft.com) wrote:
: I am going to purchase a small rig to do some knife making. I would
: like to experiment with other gases besides Acetylene. 

What do you mean rig?  If you are setting up a heat treater or
a gas forge, give propane a try.

Dave.
-- 
David Falk, Junior System Administrator, SoftQuad Inc.  <dfalk@sqwest.bc.ca>  
<!ENTITY Subliminal_Message    "Do a Nice Thing for Someone Today"  >
*My opinions do not represent those of SoftQuad Inc.*            IRC: Sutekh 
**KIMAGURE ORANGE ROAD... FOREVER****Linux, choice of a GnuType Generation**


From hqb@netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:27 EST 1995
Article: 10708 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!zombie.ncsc.mil!news.duke.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!hqb
From: hqb@netcom.com (Henry Bibb)
Subject: Re: Eisemann Magneto Co.
Message-ID: <hqbD5yJwq.665@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <thompson.228.2F6F1D7D@psy.fsu.edu> <3kpd8o$huf@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 18:41:14 GMT
Lines: 12
Sender: hqb@netcom.netcom.com

You might post a query on rec.aviation.homebuilt, here on Usenet;
lot of expertise in scrounging up aviation-related bits over there.

Henry Bibb

GrantZ5906 (grantz5906@aol.com) wrote:
: These magnetos are still in use on many aircraft engines.  If the one you
: have is similar you may be able to find parts from aviation suppliers.  If
: you can get a copy of Trade-A-Plane just call those folks who deal in
: magneto parts.  This magazine should be available at you local airport. 
: Hope this helps.  Let me know .
: Grant Ziebell


From dollar@starbase.neosoft.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:28 EST 1995
Article: 10709 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!news.uh.edu!uuneo.neosoft.com!Starbase.NeoSoft.COM!dollar
From: dollar@starbase.neosoft.com (Vance Burns)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Which Gas ? knifemaker
Date: 24 Mar 1995 20:19:53 GMT
Organization: NeoSoft Internet Services   +1 713 968 5800
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <3kv9h9$49d@uuneo.neosoft.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: starbase.neosoft.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

I am going to purchase a small rig to do some knife making. I would
like to experiment with other gases besides Acetylene. 

I worked for B&R back in my youth and remember a vast network of gas
lines to supply Natural Gas to all the yards. It made the nicest cut 
on very thick stock. Question: Why don't most home cfaftsmen  use NG?

I talked to a welding supply house and he said I could use a fish-fry
setup to do some things. Not sure how that would go...

Is there an alternative to Acetylene? I plan to not only cut, but join
stainless, brass, and carbon steels. 
Thanks


From rshingav@diamond.tufts.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:29 EST 1995
Article: 10710 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!zombie.ncsc.mil!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!world!blanket.mitre.org!emerald.tufts.edu!diamond.tufts.edu!rshingav
From: rshingav@diamond.tufts.edu (Rajesh Shingavi)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: info required
Date: 24 Mar 1995 00:37:03 GMT
Organization: Tufts University
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <3kt47f$1es@emerald.tufts.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: diamond.tufts.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]



thanks for the suggestions....
one important thing about my last posting is that the cross section of 
the steel wire is rectangular, and the coil is circular.... it is 
spirally coiled, and a PVC tube covers it...i need to make hundreds of 
meters of those daily.

trying for more suggestions.
contact rshingav@diamond.tufts.edu

thanks
rajesh



From klopfer@natinst.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:30 EST 1995
Article: 10711 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!natinst.com!not-for-mail
From: klopfer@natinst.com (Mike Klopfer)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is there an archive site for this news group?
Date: 24 Mar 1995 21:37:54 -0600
Organization: National Instruments, Austin, TX
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <3l036i$rar@eagle.natinst.com>
References: <jay_d.19.00F6B519@rmii.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: eagle.natinst.com


I saw this on a previous post but haven't checked it out.

mike


Welcome!

The FAQ is posted once each month, and is kept on plains.uwyo.edu
in the METAL directory.  You'll also find the archives for the
group there.
 
Note that Plains is down on early Sunday morning and early Monday
morning (USA Mountain time).

Jim



From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:31 EST 1995
Article: 10712 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Lincoln Welder
Date: 24 Mar 1995 23:04:21 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 20
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3l04o5$5pr@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3ksu11$208s@ns4-1.CC.Lehigh.EDU>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

 John Caffrey wrote
>In reference to 110v Lincoln MIG welders; What is the difference between
the
>WELD-PAC 100, Which sells for $350 mail order, and the SP-100, which
retails
>for $525 at the weld supply stores?


The difference is that the weld-pac is designed for flux-core welding wire
and the SP-100 has the option of a gas bottle.
Hope this helps.
***********************************************************
*                    Ernie Leimkuhler                     *
*                 Stagesmith Productions                  *              *
               Custom Metal Fabrication                 *                 
   
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
*                      Renton, WA                         *
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
***********************************************************


From MicA@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:32 EST 1995
Article: 10713 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: MicA@ix.netcom.com (Michael Adams)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: converting  small lathe to cnc
Date: 25 Mar 1995 04:12:16 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 10
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3l0570$m1a@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-syr2-05.ix.netcom.com

Does anyone have advice to someone who is thinking of attaching stepper 
motors onto a small jet lathe? I have  motors from a milling setup that 
I could use. I currently use Bobcad software with a Bridgeport mill and 
it has a lathe section with that. I would use Indexer LPT with the 
controller.I'm afraid that the backlash on the lathe might be a problem 
among other unforseen things.
 I have a small shop with 10 employees that produces high end  
hammered copper lighting.I would be happy to share what I know with 
other craftspeople.
 Mike Adams


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:33 EST 1995
Article: 10714 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Magnesium, formerly The Feel of Aluminium
Date: 24 Mar 1995 23:10:36 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 25
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3l053s$5u6@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <D5x0F0.7vp@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

As to the machinability of magnesium.

It is very easy to cut but it must be cut with care . In my early years of
machining I had to remove the surface of large magnesium blocks used in a
water tank as sacrificial free ion magnets. I succesfully set fire to the
lathe 3 times  and can say that as long as the lathe is completely clean
and free from oil and a non-solvent based cutting fluid is used, you can
cut it quite easily. I used a water soluble cutting fluid in a very weak
mixture and it ended my lathe fires. 
Milling isn't  as much of a problem since the surface speed is lower.
The research professors were joking that if I continued , they were going
to put a suckling pig on the lathe and have a cookout.
Hope this helps.



***********************************************************
*                    Ernie Leimkuhler                     *
*                 Stagesmith Productions                  *              *
               Custom Metal Fabrication                 *                 
   
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
*                      Renton, WA                         *
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
***********************************************************


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:34 EST 1995
Article: 10715 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Entry level welding rig
Date: 24 Mar 1995 23:23:40 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 22
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3l05sc$65m@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <1736B855D.EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I'm curious as to how the gas supplier you refer to justifies that system.
According to DOT regulations , rental tanks and ownership cylinders are
required to be handled completely seperatly. A new 20 cu ft tank should
cost  about 50 bucks.
I have bought tanks in Indiana traded them in to a supplier in California
and taken the california tanks and traded them in in Seattle without any
problem. An ownership cylinder is a universal commodity. I've never heard
of any gas company refusing an ownership cylinder from some other
supplier. Rental tanks are a completly different deal and I know that 
suppliers won't touch anyone else's rental tanks with a ten foot pole.
However if you can find military tanks they might take them.
In other words I don't understand the deal you have and why you pay so
much for such a small tank.
***********************************************************
*                    Ernie Leimkuhler                     *
*                 Stagesmith Productions                  *              *
               Custom Metal Fabrication                 *                 
   
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
*                      Renton, WA                         *
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
***********************************************************


From rcj@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:35 EST 1995
Article: 10716 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!lhdsy1!rcj
From: rcj@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com (R.C. Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: air compressor: quiet air supply
Message-ID: <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com>
Date: 22 Mar 95 16:43:28 GMT
References: <janecek-1503952118580001@janecek.tezcat.com> <D5J6wM.7LI@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <3ka1mt$khf@newsgate.sps.mot.com>
Organization: Chevron Oil Field Research Co., La Habra, CA
Lines: 13


I have a Sears 3 hp air compressor that is about five years old.
When I use it for extended buffing/polishing now, it generates
an "expensive"  knocking sound that makes me think I'll need to
get a new one soon.
 Is there an FAQ on compressors? Could anyone recommend a preferred model?
I've heard that the "beltless/oil-less" ones are not so good. Comments
would be sincerely appreciated.
-- 
  |___________________________________________________________________| 
>>| Dik Jones, Earth Model Interpretation   Internet: rcj@Chevron.com |
  | Chevron Petroleum Technology Company.        Tel:  (310) 694-7056 | 
  | La Habra, California 90633-0446              Fax:  (310) 694-7063 |  


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:36 EST 1995
Article: 10717 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!toads.pgh.pa.us!news.pgh.net!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!news.ultranet.com!pcm.ultranet.com!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Enco Mill and CCNC
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 18:51:48 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <ginger.126.00090EDD@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <dmauch.2.2F70E7D6@dmauch.seanet.com> <3kqsjh$26cm@tequesta.gate.net> <dmauch.7.2F722591@dmauch.seanet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pcm.ultranet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

In article <dmauch.7.2F722591@dmauch.seanet.com> dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch) writes:
>From: dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch)
>Subject: Re: Enco Mill and CCNC
>Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 01:51:13 GMT



>>Could your stepper motor be loosing/missing steps???  I have found that
>>too high of a move rate will cause missed steps, thus inacurate movement.
>>Also overloading can cause missed steps, as in too small of a power supply
>>or motor too small for application.

>No. It is not losing steps. I manually turned the hand crank and found that 
>turing the x axis dial .1 that the dial indicator moved .103.

Are you sure of the dial indicator? Test it by holding it over a surface plate 
and measuring a block, which you can check with your mike.

Then of course, you have to believe your mike too :-)

Seriously, last night I was reading a MACHINISTS BEDSIDE READER, and he talks 
about the accuracy specs for Dial Indicators there, and according to Guy, they 
are only rated for about .5%, which is a half thou per rev. I know lots of 
people use Dials for long measurements, but they ought to be checked. Im going 
to do mine tonight, or next time I get into teh shop.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From darylb@bnr.ca Sun Mar 26 11:52:37 EST 1995
Article: 10718 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!newsjunkie.ans.net!fonorola!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!NewsWatcher!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (Daryl Bender)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 16:52:58 -0500
Organization: bnr
Lines: 18
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <darylb-240395165258@47.8.3.84>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net> <3kqvdl$83a@kelly.teleport.com> <3krtib$4q7@jazzmin.vnet.net>,<thompson.235.2F717D2D@psy.fsu.edu> <3ks4gs$qfu@news.doit.wisc.edu> <3kug0k$irr@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <3kug0k$irr@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>, lewcobb@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca
(Lewis Cobb External) wrote:

> Up here in Canada (eh) I have only ever heard the term "close enough for 
> government work" - I feel after reading this thread that a gap which has 
> existed in my knowledge for many years has now been filled - hehe
> 
> Lewis
> lewcobb@unb.ca
Snip

Well I'm Up here in Canada and I've heard of the term Government Job
(G-Job) many times. I however do not partake in such selfish endeavours for
it is frivolous waste of corporate time and resources (wink). 

 Mr G-Job
-- 
(still) Working, but not speaking for BNR.


From murr@elvis.vnet.net Sun Mar 26 11:52:38 EST 1995
Article: 10719 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!news.pop.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!ralph.vnet.net!elvis.vnet.net!not-for-mail
From: murr@elvis.vnet.net (murr rhame)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Government Work
Date: 22 Mar 1995 15:12:56 -0500
Organization: Vnet Internet Access, Inc. - Charlotte, NC. (704) 374-0779
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: elvis.vnet.net
Summary: How widespread is the term "government work"?
Keywords: slang

Curious about the slang term "government work".  In every shop I've been
in government work has been used to describe a machinist doing personal
work.  This is true in shops that have never had a government contract. 
I've asked folks about it who are from many states up and down the east
coast.  Every machinist I've asked is familiar with the term.  Is anyone
from the west half of the US or other countries familiar with this slang? 


- Murr "just did some government work after hours yesterday" Rhame


From xlch58@netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:39 EST 1995
Article: 10720 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!xlch58
From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: cutting sheet metal (mild steel)
Message-ID: <xlch58D5wp6B.Mvz@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <3kdbbb$2ij$1@perth.DIALix.oz.au> <3kdv3u$6ti@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 18:39:47 GMT
Lines: 9
Sender: xlch58@netcom12.netcom.com

ErnieLeim (ernieleim@aol.com) wrote:
: I use  a router all the time to cut alluminum
.......
: I would not suggest  using a router on any other metal except maybe
: magnesium. 


  Can I come over an watch when you machine magnesium at 20,000 rpm with
a very fine feed, resulting in very fine chips?  


From ian@sywell.demon.co.uk Sun Mar 26 11:52:40 EST 1995
Article: 10721 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ian@sywell.demon.co.uk (Ian Harris)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!swrinde!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!sywell.demon.co.uk!ian
Subject: Anodizing aluminium????
Organization: Who knows?
Reply-To: ian@sywell.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  18
X-Posting-Host: sywell.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 1995 20:21:21 +0000
Message-ID: <237576074wnr@sywell.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk

Does anyone out there now anything about anodizing and dying aluminium 
under home workshop conditions, both extrusions and machined components?

Two points:
	I can not aford a temperature controlled bath..  :-(
	I am *British* so American suppliers are close to useless.

Also, no comments about our tools, 
	Britool were around long before SnapOn!  ;-)
 
 _________________________________________________________ \\\\\  ///// __ 
| Ian Harris - ian@sywell.demon.co.uk                      <| . >< . |>   | 
|    "it takes forty men with their feet on the             \__/  \__/    |
|     ground to keep one man with his head in the air."         oo        |
|__________________________________________________________   \____/   ___|




From fwk@hogpb.ho.att.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:41 EST 1995
Article: 10722 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntpa!not-for-mail
From: fwk@hogpb.ho.att.com (-F.KERFOOT)
Subject: Re: Collets for MT 3 spindle
Message-ID: <D5wMzw.4D1@nntpa.cb.att.com>
Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration)
Nntp-Posting-Host: hogpb.ho.att.com
Organization: AT&T
References: <1995Mar23.042821.23134@lofty.com>
Distribution: usa
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 17:52:43 GMT
Lines: 24

In article <1995Mar23.042821.23134@lofty.com>,
Tim Jensen <timj@lofty.com> wrote:
>
>  I have a model 815 Logan lathe that I would like to equip with collets
>and closure. The headstock spindle is threaded 1 1/2  8 t.p.i. with a
>number 3 MT. Obviously 5C collets are too big for this spindle. What would
>be my best choice for collets for this lathe? 

Based on our recent discussion of the collets and spindle taper of the
South Bend 9" lathe, I expect that 3-C collets, as used in the 9" SB,
would be a reasonable choice. You might well be able to use the collet
closing sleeve from a 9" SB, which would be #3 Morse on the outside
and 3-C collet profile on the inside. The 9" SB also has a 1 1/2"-8
spindle thread, so the thread protector/closer remover from a 9" SB
may well also work. Using a 9" SB handwheel and drawbar tube would
depend on details like the spindel length and the bore through the
part which does not have the #3 Morse taper. 9" SB's are relatively 
common, so you may not have too much trouble finding the parts,
although their popularity may also make the parts more expensive.
3-C collets should not be too hard to find, although not as common as 5-C.

Frank Kerfoot
fwk@hogpa.att.com



From fredstan@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:42 EST 1995
Article: 10723 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: fredstan@aol.com (FredStan)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: 25 Mar 1995 04:49:28 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 25
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3l0ov8$a3v@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net>
Reply-To: fredstan@aol.com (FredStan)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I have been working in the military electronics industry for 13 or so
years and I never heard the term G-job until just recently from a
co-worker (over 20 years of military electronics history). I asked him
what that meant and he went into his usual long speal to explain which all
boiled down to mean that you were doing a personal project on govt. time
and probably using govt. parts and it was encouraged (unofficially)
because of the educational benefits. As I stated previously I never heard
the term G-job but I have seen it in practice, not so much in recent due
to economic stress in military companies in general trying to become more
competitive and get into comercial markets.

As far as the term "Good enough for Government work" that one I have heard
from day one and what it means usually is that you just kludged something
and it really doesn't have to be done right because it is for the
government. 99% of the time the person saying it really means "OK I
screwed up but I am not going to fix it, right now at least, but I do know
the proper solution" in my experience ? It also insinuates that you
shouldn't worry about it because the government will give us more funds to
fix it later anyhow !

Pretty bad attitude, But isn't it the american way ? (at least thats what
the rest of the world thinks about us !)[ wasn't it the Japanese prime
minister who made those regretfull statements, considering their current
economic down trend]
....Fred Stanford


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sun Mar 26 11:52:43 EST 1995
Article: 10724 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk (Charles Lamont)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!news.pop.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
Subject: Re: metal ball
References: <D5srtu.4FJ@inter.NL.net> <3knag1$8s3@newsreader.wustl.edu> <3kod90$ha3@newsreader.wustl.edu>
Organization: None
Reply-To: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  15
X-Posting-Host: abdab.demon.co.uk
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 1995 11:00:53 +0000
Message-ID: <853181237wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk


> > I'm searching for a light hollow metal ball that can be attracted by 
> > magnetism.

> They call the items Stainless Steel Floats, Page 55 of their catalog.

If they are austenitic stainless (18/8 typically) they will not be magnetic.
Martensitic stainless is magnetic, and generally has better machining and
mechanical properties, but it is not as corrosion resistant.

-- 
Charles Lamont




From thompson@psy.fsu.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:44 EST 1995
Article: 10725 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!mailer.fsu.edu!nb2ppp11.acns-slp.fsu.edu!thompson
From: thompson@psy.fsu.edu (Ron Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 1995 11:55:35 GMT
Organization: Psychology Dept., FSU
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <thompson.36.2F7404B2@psy.fsu.edu>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net> <3l0ov8$a3v@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nb2ppp11.acns-slp.fsu.edu

In article <3l0ov8$a3v@newsbf02.news.aol.com> fredstan@aol.com (FredStan) writes:


>I have been working in the military electronics industry for 13 or so
>years and I never heard the term G-job until just recently from a
>co-worker (over 20 years of military electronics history). I asked him
>what that meant and he went into his usual long speal to explain which all
>boiled down to mean that you were doing a personal project on govt. time
>and probably using govt. parts and it was encouraged (unofficially)
>because of the educational benefits. As I stated previously I never heard
>the term G-job but I have seen it in practice, not so much in recent due
>to economic stress in military companies in general trying to become more
>competitive and get into comercial markets.

>As far as the term "Good enough for Government work" that one I have heard
>from day one and what it means usually is that you just kludged something
>and it really doesn't have to be done right because it is for the
>government. 99% of the time the person saying it really means "OK I
>screwed up but I am not going to fix it, right now at least, but I do know
>the proper solution" in my experience ? It also insinuates that you
>shouldn't worry about it because the government will give us more funds to
>fix it later anyhow !

>Pretty bad attitude, But isn't it the american way ? (at least thats what
>the rest of the world thinks about us !)[ wasn't it the Japanese prime
>minister who made those regretfull statements, considering their current
>economic down trend]
>....Fred Stanford


I think we pretty well have the same definitions. I can not remember the 
first time I heard the terms. My father was in the military and maybe that 
is where I first heard it. Places I have worked have always had ex-military 
people working there and I know at least some of them if not all used the 
term.

Ron



Ron Thompson                   |  Voice (904) 644-5563
Psychology Dept                |  Fax   (904) 644-7739
Florida State Univ             |  Amateur Radio N4FHO
Tallahassee, FL 33206-1051     |  Member Florida Flywheelers


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Sun Mar 26 11:52:45 EST 1995
Article: 10726 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!waldorf.csc.calpoly.edu!zimmer!news
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Subject: Re: The Feel of Aluminium
Message-ID: <D5wt17.GH6@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
Sender: Greg Lewis
Nntp-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu
Organization: CSU Fresno
References: <1995Mar18.003318.26764@ampakzo.uucp> <3kl5rt$quq@news.service.uci.edu> <1995Mar22.173301.4078@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 20:03:07 GMT
Lines: 28

In article <1995Mar22.173301.4078@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman) writes:
>dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu () writes:
>
[snip]

>Well now, the tale to tell...
>A friend was moving so had to get rid of a *LOT* of old stock from
>his garage.  He let it be known to all who cut metal that such was
>the case.  I went over to see what was there and off to the side was
>a couple of slabs of 5/8" aluminum.  All told, 13 lbs of the stuff.
>We all agreend that it's aluminum.  Not good for much as sheet stock
>(paint, holes drilled, dented, dinged), but should do fine for casting.
>Bought it.  Brought it home.  Started to scrape some paint off.  The
>scrapings didn't feel right.  Add heat and get BRIGHT WHITE BURN!
>Yeah, I have 13 lbs of magnesium.
>-- 
>    - Barry Workman 
>

Aren't VW blocks magnesium or some special alloy? I've been told they
aren't good candidates for home foundries... correct or no?


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing


From thompson@psy.fsu.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:46 EST 1995
Article: 10727 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!mailer.fsu.edu!nb2ppp11.acns-slp.fsu.edu!thompson
From: thompson@psy.fsu.edu (Ron Thompson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Does anyone have info...
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 1995 12:12:31 GMT
Organization: Psychology Dept., FSU
Lines: 42
Message-ID: <thompson.38.2F7408AE@psy.fsu.edu>
References: <rlinsch.1.0016626B@teleport.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nb2ppp11.acns-slp.fsu.edu
Keywords: castings,Breisch,engines,gasoline,

In article <rlinsch.1.0016626B@teleport.com> rlinsch@teleport.com (Roger  Linscheid) writes:

>Hi, 

>This is the first post from a new follower of this group, so please, be
>gentle!

>I was wondering if anyone knows how to reach the person or persons that are 
>selling the casting kits for the line of engines that were sold by Paul 
>Breisch.   It is my understanding that the gentleman passed away some years 
>back, but that his family was continuing to sell the internal combustion 
>engines line,  but the steam engines had been sold to another individual.

>My father (79 years young) has recently gotten the itch to build one similar 
>to the one I bought many years ago.

>Any information recieved will be greatly appreciated!

>P.S.  I checked in the FAQ for this info, but didn't find any references to 
>Mr. Breisch
                                                                            
                         
Thanx,>                                                                      
        >                                                                    
   R/L

Some where I have it . The sas engines went to one man and the steam engine 
went to someone else.



Breisch/Peters
Jay A. Peters
14 Marie Lane
Schwenksville, PA 19473



Ron Thompson                   |  Voice (904) 644-5563
Psychology Dept                |  Fax   (904) 644-7739
Florida State Univ             |  Amateur Radio N4FHO
Tallahassee, FL 33206-1051     |  Member Florida Flywheelers


From mrehmus@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:48 EST 1995
Article: 10728 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: mrehmus@ix.netcom.com (Mike Rehmus)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Collets for MT 3 spindle
Date: 23 Mar 1995 20:19:53 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 40
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3ksl59$59j@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
References: <1995Mar23.042821.23134@lofty.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-sj9-06.ix.netcom.com

In <1995Mar23.042821.23134@lofty.com> timj@lofty.com (Tim Jensen) writes: 

>
>
>  I have a model 815 Logan lathe that I would like to equip with collets
>and closure. The headstock spindle is threaded 1 1/2  8 t.p.i. with a
>number 3 MT. Obviously 5C collets are too big for this spindle. What 
would
>be my best choice for collets for this lathe? 
>
>  Thanks, Tim Jensen
>
>
>

Acorn collets or the double- angle collets made in Israel by ETM.  They 
each have twice the range of a 5C collet and are much shorter (same grip 
length though).  Rutland Tool lists 3 MT kits:


Model ER-32 for $386 that includes the 3 MT chuck holder and a set of 11 
collets from 1/8" to 3/4".

Model ER-40 for $570 that includes the 3 MT chuck holder and a set of 15 
collets from 1/8" to 1".

Or you can do what I did which is to make an adaptor that screws on the 
end of my lathe spindle and internally accommodates the back taper of the 
collet series I chose and an external thread for the ETR clamping nut 
that I bought from Rutland (cost about $50 with nut and wrench.)  Then 
each collet costs me $20.

The TIR is less than .001 four inches out from the collet on 1/2" stock.

Oh, BTW, my setup does not prevent me from using the full diameter of the 
spindle bore.

Best,

Mike


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:50 EST 1995
Article: 10729 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Enco Mill and CCNC
Message-ID: <1995Mar24.081238.9483@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 24 Mar 95 08:12:38 MST
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <dmauch.2.2F70E7D6@dmauch.seanet.com> <3kqsjh$26cm@tequesta.gate.net>
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming
Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
Lines: 13


In article <3kqsjh$26cm@tequesta.gate.net>, redman@gate.net writes:
|>
|>Could your stepper motor be loosing/missing steps???  I have found that
|>too high of a move rate will cause missed steps, thus inacurate movement.
|>Also overloading can cause missed steps, as in too small of a power supply
|>or motor too small for application.

This also points out the significant advantage of using a position sensor
and a closed-feedback loop, instead of the less-expensive open-loop design.
Missed steps would be noticed by the electronics, and retried.

Jim


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:51 EST 1995
Article: 10730 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: Steam Engine Wanted
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Message-ID: <D5woDn.K2D@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Sender: postmaster@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Organization: Ohio University, College of Engineerng & Technology
References: <D5uCwv.2yv@boi.hp.com> <1995Mar23.061728.9745@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <3krv4f$r25@darwin.nbnet.nb.ca>
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 18:22:34 GMT
Lines: 21

>
>>It may be the perspective, but 5-10 hp steam engines IMHO are not small.
>
>Yes indeed! They are not for the livingroom! I once owned a "small"
>mill engine of about seven hp.The idea was to run a cutoff saw for
>stove wood and have fun blowing a whistle. The engine was a full load
>for a half ton, size wise, and an overload weightwise, so it must have
>been about fifteen hundred pounds and about seven by four feet. The
>boiler I had was about three by five verticle and I could only get
>enough steam to run at about 20 rpm, as I recall, Nowhere near enough
>to do any work. It_was_fun though.:-) I ultimately traded the whole

This is an exceptionally interesting discussion for those interested in
the history of technology.  So "small: steam engines are big, and they need
a big, hot boiler to work.  An earlier post and its replies about the
dangers of home-made boilers were equally illuminating.  No wonder the
electric motor and internal combustion engine replaced steam for smaller
applications so quickly.  I suppose that we have to repeat the past in
order to understand it. 
                                                     M Kinsler



From jdc6@Lehigh.EDU Sun Mar 26 11:52:52 EST 1995
Article: 10731 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!news.pop.psu.edu!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!Lehigh.EDU!Lehigh.EDU!not-for-mail
From: jdc6@Lehigh.EDU
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Lincoln Welder
Date: 23 Mar 1995 17:51:13 -0500
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <3ksu11$208s@ns4-1.CC.Lehigh.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ns4-1.cc.lehigh.edu

In reference to 110v Lincoln MIG welders; What is the difference between the
WELD-PAC 100, Which sells for $350 mail order, and the SP-100, which retails
for $525 at the weld supply stores?
                                                            John Caffrey
                                                            jdc6@lehigh.edu


From dollar@starbase.neosoft.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:53 EST 1995
Article: 10732 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!news.uh.edu!uuneo.neosoft.com!Starbase.NeoSoft.COM!dollar
From: dollar@starbase.neosoft.com (Vance Burns)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Which Gas ? knifemaker
Date: 25 Mar 1995 14:29:26 GMT
Organization: NeoSoft Internet Services   +1 713 968 5800
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <3l19c6$nl1@uuneo.neosoft.com>
References: <3kv9h9$49d@uuneo.neosoft.com> <1995Mar25.004018.5788@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: starbase.neosoft.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

David Falk (dfalk@sqwest.wimsey.bc.ca) wrote:
: Vance Burns (dollar@starbase.neosoft.com) wrote:
: : I am going to purchase a small rig to do some knife making. I would
: : like to experiment with other gases besides Acetylene. 

: What do you mean rig?  If you are setting up a heat treater or
: a gas forge, give propane a try.

: Dave.
Sorry, by rig I mean cut/join stuff.


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:54 EST 1995
Article: 10733 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: Info required !
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Message-ID: <D5wnBy.J1G@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Sender: postmaster@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Organization: Ohio University, College of Engineerng & Technology
References: <3kps7e$63p@emerald.tufts.edu>
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 17:59:58 GMT
Lines: 10

>  i am looking for all the possible methods available to manufacture a 
>HELICAL COIL OF STEEL WITH RECTANGULAR CROSS SECTION, which shall further 
>be reinforced with PVC TUBING.

1) Buy some rectangular bar stock.
2) Coil it around a mandrel.
3) Remove the mandrel somehow.

                           M Kinsler



From xlch58@netcom.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:55 EST 1995
Article: 10734 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!xlch58
From: xlch58@netcom.com
Subject: Re: cutting sheet metal (mild steel)
Message-ID: <xlch58D602qp.4qE@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <3kdbbb$2ij$1@perth.DIALix.oz.au> <3kdv3u$6ti@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <xlch58D5wp6B.Mvz@netcom.com> <3ksrkf$f65@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 1995 14:25:37 GMT
Lines: 13
Sender: xlch58@netcom17.netcom.com

Kevin Oliver (KEOliver@ix.netcom.com) wrote:

: >  Can I come over an watch when you machine magnesium at 20,000 rpm 
: with
: >a very fine feed, resulting in very fine chips?  
: >

: Please give your next of kin my business card before you do this.
: -- 


My point was magnesium dust at elevated temps would make quite a show.
Believe me, I would find a safe vantage point for this demonstration.


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Sun Mar 26 11:52:56 EST 1995
Article: 10735 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 22:06:22 GMT
Subject: Entry level welding rig
Message-ID: <101260008@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!brooksp
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Lines: 26

I'm thinking of getting into metal working as a sidelight to woodworking, but
one of several questions that I have is about welding.  The last time I tried 
to weld anyghing, LBJ was president, and TIG wasn't available at my
highschool.  I've *seen* TIG welding, but we didn't have a rig in my basic
shop class.  I did a bit of gas welding, brazing, and made a botch at
arc welding.  However, I think I could do the latter, now...

The rig it's be looking for would be an entry level/general purpose welder.
I'd like it to be able to handle 1/4" steel at a minimum, though thicker
might be OK.  The ability to weld aluminum would be nice, though it's not
critical.  I haven't (yet) had the urge to build a bicycle, so I don't
need brazing ability, though I couldn't count that out.

So, a few questions:

1)  Is gas welding kind of obsolete for general purposes?
2)  If I go with MIG, I'd probably want to go with a gas shield, rather than
    flux core wire.  What's a practical amount of power to have for the
    1/4" stock?
3)  If I do want to braze, is gas still the only way to go?
4)  I get the idea that RF is necessary for aluminum welding.  Is this correct?

Thanks in advance for the answers.  

Pete Brooks



From darylb@bnr.ca Sun Mar 26 11:52:57 EST 1995
Article: 10736 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!NewsWatcher!user
From: darylb@bnr.ca (Daryl Bender)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: chemical etching question
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 18:04:53 -0500
Organization: bnr
Lines: 46
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <darylb-230395180454@47.8.3.84>
References: <janecek-1503952118580001@janecek.tezcat.com> <D5J6wM.7LI@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <3ka1mt$khf@newsgate.sps.mot.com> <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com> <3kqj6l$k5p@news1.svc> <3kqkjo$kkq@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca

In article <3kqkjo$kkq@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>, jlake@ix.netcom.com (Jon
Lake) wrote:

> I would like to make some small flat prototype parts and I think that
> chemical etching would give me the best quality.  Are there any
> "hobbiest" kits out there for chemical etching or should I try to
> avoid doing this myself?  I would like the material to be copper, but
> aluminum would work.  On occasion, I would like to make small, flat
> springs out of spring steel shim stock, can I make them with chemical
> etching?  Some of this stuff would be a little difficult to machine on
> a mill.
> Alternatively, if the experts recommend against a small shop attempting
> this, is there anyone out there that does low, low volume chem etching
> in the San Francisco Bay area?
> TIA,    jon

It's not that hard to do. Its usually called photochemical etching. It
works very well on copper and copper based alloys. You will need a UV light
source and you should see some discussion of that still lingering in this
group. You will need some resist, developer and etchant (ferric cloride)
usually found at an electronic parts store in the "do it yourself PCB"
section. The basic process is clean the metal, pour on resist (under red
light conditions) let dry (short 200oF bake in oven helps) (resist becomes
more light sensitive when dry) place your phototool on top of the metal &
held down with a piece of glass, expose under UV light source, remove glass
and phototool and develop coated metal (red light conditions end), rinse,
200oF bake in oven to harden coating, etch. If you can spray the etchant
hot it etches faster and undercutting (eating in then under causes fatter
lines) is minimized.
You can make phototools with a laserprinter that has been fed
transparencies. Also I have also sometimes sprayed the entire part with
black (or whatever) laquer. The paint bonds excellently to the etched lines
and elsewhere it is sitting on a resist coating. Take a wood block with
medium emery and sand away. The pattern literally emerges under the sanding
block. Just watch any wide etched areas (ie not lines) and sand carefully
around the edges. Then you sand finer and finer ending up with 0000 steel
wool. 
I'm not sure how well this process works on steel (likely different
chemicals for sure) but you could make your springs from berilium copper.
I feel you should also be ecologically responsible with the chemicals as
they are noxious (developer especially). Take them for proper disposal when
done. Don't dump them down the drain.

Daryl
-- 
Working, but not speaking for BNR.


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Sun Mar 26 11:52:59 EST 1995
Article: 10737 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Magnesium, formerly The Feel of Aluminium
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Message-ID: <D5x0F0.7vp@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Sender: postmaster@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Organization: Ohio University, College of Engineerng & Technology
References: <1995Mar18.003318.26764@ampakzo.uucp> <3kl5rt$quq@news.service.uci.edu> <1995Mar22.173301.4078@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <D5wt17.GH6@zimmer.csufresno.edu>
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 22:42:36 GMT
Lines: 6

I read a good British book referenced on this group: "Metals in the 
Service of Man".  It says that the flammability of magnesium is somewhat 
overrrated; that it can be cast and machined like anything else.  Matter 
of fact, he's pretty vehement on the subject, as I recall.
                                             M Kinsler



From steveskid@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:00 EST 1995
Article: 10738 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: steveskid@aol.com (SteveSkid)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Info: Sheldon Lathes
Date: 23 Mar 1995 17:53:03 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 6
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3ksu4f$c1o@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: steveskid@aol.com (SteveSkid)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

There is a Sheldon 8x20 lathe for sale in my local paper, I was
considering giving it a look.  Does anyone have any experience  with them?
 Is Sheldon still in business?  Are parts available?

Steve Skidmore
SteveSkid@aol.com


From wayneb@nyc.pipeline.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:01 EST 1995
Article: 10739 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.nyc.pipeline.com!not-for-mail
From: wayneb@nyc.pipeline.com (Wayne Beardsley)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: 25 Mar 1995 13:04:14 -0500
Organization: The Pipeline
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <3l1luu$o65@pipe6.nyc.pipeline.com>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net><3kvbom$clc@crcnis3.unl.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pipe6.nyc.pipeline.com

I first heard the term "Government Work" when I was working at Cornell
University's high energy physics lab in the late '60s. Most often used when
was someone was asked about a personal project they were working on, they
would reply: "can't talk about it, it's top secret government work". I
believe it probably came first from the guys working in defense contractor
R&D shops.


From jnaylor@southwind.net Sun Mar 26 11:53:02 EST 1995
Article: 10740 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!southwind.net!NewsWatcher!user
From: jnaylor@southwind.net (Jim Naylor)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: The Feel of Aluminium
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 23:25:41 -0600
Organization: entropya
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <jnaylor-2303952325410001@192.0.2.1>
References: <1995Mar18.003318.26764@ampakzo.uucp> <3kl5rt$quq@news.service.uci.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: onyx.southwind.net

In article <3kl5rt$quq@news.service.uci.edu>, dparsons@plasma.ps.uci.edu
() wrote:

> I have pondered the feel of aluminum a few times.  Have you ever noticed
> that aluminum looks very much like aluminum?  If it's polished or not
> on the rack, or under the bench, when you spy the stuff you instantly
> know that it is aluminum.  As a matter of fact I have wondered if you
> know that it is aluminum just before you see it.  It seems that way.  Now
> if you touch it it will go out of it's way to tell you that it is aluminum.
> To be precise it will go out of your way to tell you it is aluminum.  It
> seems to be exactly the correct weight to please the touch but too light
> to juggle spheres.  If it is cool when you pick it up, it will warm and if it
> is warm it will cool when you touch it, but the truth be known you can rarely
> ever touch it.
> 
> It is a jesting miracle, a true heart of plaid on a black velvet pillow.
> 
> Dave Parsons

Dave, et al

I'm new to this group and haven't done my normal minimum lurking, but
can't seem to restrain myself from responding to this piece, which strikes
to the very heart of its issue! Would you consider cross-posting it to
rec.arts.poetry?

Some of my most restful hours have been spent touring the Boeing Surplus
sales yard in Wichita, wondering where to start working those beautiful
"scraps".

-- 
Jim Naylor    (Lurkers Anonymous)             


From jjcrom@mail.envisionet.net Sun Mar 26 11:53:03 EST 1995
Article: 10741 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!usenet
From: jjcrom@mail.envisionet.net (Justin Crom)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Help: Catalogs, Mail Order Houses
Date: 25 Mar 1995 19:35:22 GMT
Organization: ENVISIONET, Inc. 
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <3l1r9q$3dq@nsgate.envisionet.net>
References: <3kuo9f$64k@mars.efn.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: slip3.envisionet.net
Mime-Version: 1.0
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.93.10

In article <3kuo9f$64k@mars.efn.org>, jwodke@efn.org says...
>
.
>Anybody have any information on tool catalogs, mailorder vendors or
>other options, please drop me a line --> jwodke@efn.org.

I've had great luck with Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools (304) 562-3538.  
Address is PO BOX 536-M, Hurricane, WV 25526-0536

They carry lots of neat tooling, supplies, and books.

Justin



From b-feen@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu Sun Mar 26 11:53:04 EST 1995
Article: 10742 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!ux4.cso.uiuc.edu!b-feen
From: b-feen@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Feen Ben J)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: 25 Mar 1995 19:54:32 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <3l1sdo$dqb@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net><3kvbom$clc@crcnis3.unl.edu> <3l1luu$o65@pipe6.nyc.pipeline.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ux4.cso.uiuc.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]


Funny...  I learned the term, "good enough for government work" in high school
theatre, and took it to mean,  "it's for the government, and I don't care if
it's right."  I used it today, in fact :-)

As for "close enough for rock n' roll", well, in the theatrical industry, this
refers to the quick 'n dirty jobs required of union stagehands doing rock
tours.

--
Benjamin Feen
Theatrical Technology major at large
b-feen@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu
Woo!


From steamer@rain.org Sun Mar 26 11:53:05 EST 1995
Article: 10743 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.rain.org!coyote.rain.org!steamer
From: steamer@rain.org ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Myford Super 7
Date: 25 Mar 1995 19:46:01 GMT
Organization: RAIN Public Access Internet (805) 967-RAIN
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <3l1rtp$di3@news.rain.org>
References: <D5yIns.Mu8@world.std.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: coyote.rain.org
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

	--Well, it'll handle something 7" dia., I guess. I've got a Super & 
and I've never had to nerve to try something that big, but it's just 
barely do-able. The gap in the bed really makes it possible. In reality 
it's more like a 5"(dia.) lathe, owing to the small distance from the top 
of the compound slide to the centerline of the chuck (exact distance 
escapes me)...
	--It's still the best darned lathe of its class on the market, 
IMHO: you can't go wrong with one of these. Put a decent size motor on 
it, in order to have good starting and running torque at the higher speeds.

-- "Steamboat Ed" Haas		:	Co-founder of the 
Voice: 805-968-7534		:	    SBSMEEBBQ
FAX:   805-JOB-TWAT		:	-Call about our Newsletter!
	--------Decks a-wash in a sea of words!!--------
					


From steamer@rain.org Sun Mar 26 11:53:06 EST 1995
Article: 10744 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.rain.org!coyote.rain.org!steamer
From: steamer@rain.org ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: EDM saw info wanted
Date: 25 Mar 1995 19:47:54 GMT
Organization: RAIN Public Access Internet (805) 967-RAIN
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <3l1s1b$di3@news.rain.org>
References: <1995Mar23.163444.1@vax.cerritos.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: coyote.rain.org
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

	--Maybe you are referring to wire EDM, which would amount to the 
same thing?

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas		:	Co-founder of the 
Voice: 805-968-7534		:	    SBSMEEBBQ
FAX:   805-JOB-TWAT		:	-Call about our Newsletter!
	--------Decks a-wash in a sea of words!!--------
					


From kamooni@pb2esac.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:08 EST 1995
Article: 10745 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!tandem!pacbell.com!pb2esac!kamooni
From: kamooni@pb2esac.com (Ken Moonitz)
Subject: Re: Collets for MT 3 spindle
Message-ID: <1995Mar23.173940.4905@pb2esac.com>
Organization: Pacific * Bell ESAC
References: <1995Mar23.042821.23134@lofty.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 17:39:40 GMT
Lines: 14

In article <1995Mar23.042821.23134@lofty.com> timj@lofty.com (Tim Jensen) writes:
>
>  I have a model 815 Logan lathe that I would like to equip with collets
>and closure. The headstock spindle is threaded 1 1/2  8 t.p.i. with a
>number 3 MT. Obviously 5C collets are too big for this spindle. What would
>be my best choice for collets for this lathe? 
>
>  Thanks, Tim Jensen
>
>

I would check out one of the collet chucks advertised in HSM.  They
use 5C collets which are cheap compared to 3C or AT collets.  Also 
you would not be limited to the spindle bore.


From dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:09 EST 1995
Article: 10746 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!kaleka.seanet.com!dmauch.seanet.com!dmauch
From: dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: converting  small lathe to cnc
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 1995 21:08:49 GMT
Organization: OSD, Inc.
Lines: 10
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <dmauch.12.2F748661@dmauch.seanet.com>
References: <3l0570$m1a@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dmauch.seanet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]


>Does anyone have advice to someone who is thinking of attaching stepper 
>motors onto a small jet lathe? I have  motors from a milling setup that 
>I could use. I currently use Bobcad software with a Bridgeport mill and 
>it has a lathe section with that. I would use Indexer LPT with the 
>controller.I'm afraid that the backlash on the lathe might be a problem 
> I too have a jet lathe if you hear of a good solution please pass it along. 
I have built several CCNC machines but the jet is not to easy without major 
mods.



From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:10 EST 1995
Article: 10747 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Entry level welding rig
Date: 24 Mar 1995 01:48:24 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 93
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3ktpvo$l4g@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <101260008@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Entry level welding rig

Okay first , Gas( Oxy- Fuel) welding is dead as the dodo as far as
industrial use goes . It is still very useful for custom fabrication in
small shops because it does so many things in a fairly elegant manner . It
just isn't fast enough for industrial purposes. However this can work to
your advantage since used rigs are readily available and gas is still the
cheapest . It is still the best way to braze or solder. They still use gas
to sweat bike frames together. Also only consider flux core wire for
occassional  use where a tank is just too hard to carry. 
 If you want to weld steel up to 1/4 inch but not a lot of 1/4 inch, go
for a small mig gun. A hobart handler 120 or miller 130 are both good
units for thin wall tube steel. I've had a handler for 2 years and love it
for small work and on site welding since it runs on 120 v house current.
You do need a clear 20 amp circuit or you'll pop a breaker.
They cost between $600 and $900 according to what package you get.
Don't bother with a cheap unit .They are nothing but agravation.
Theoretically you can weld thin alluminum with these but don't believe it.

For heavy steel and alluminum go for either a 170 amp or 250 amp mig .
With the 250 amp units you can weld unlimited thickness steel or aluminum
with multiple passes and you can buy wire in 45 lb. spools. Hobart ,
Miller and Lincoln all make good units The 170 amp units are nice for
intermediate stuff and I once rented a Hobart 170 to weld aluminum and was
very impressed. I lean towards Hobart or Miller. I own a Hobart Betamig
250. Great welder , but some people prefer the controls on the miller. You
can push alluminum wire through a regular mig but for extensive aluminum a
spoolergun is recommended since the wire is only pushed about 6 inches
instead of 12 feet. They can either be run off a mig power supply with an
additional panel or by a seperate power supply. 
170 amp units run about $1100 and 250 amp for  $1600.Spoolers run around
$800, and require small 1 lb. spools of alum. They run on 50 amp circuits
of 220volt single phase.

As for TIG , the only real contender in the entry level field is the
Miller Econ-tig. It is the first  Tig that is affordable for small shops .
It is a 150 amp tig and a 175 amp stick welder. Great machine . I've had
mine for about a year and couldn't live without it . It can weld anything
up to 1/4 inch steel or aluminum and occassional use on up to 3/8 inch.
I've welded steel , stainless steel, titanium, aluminum, copper and
inconel. 
A new unit with air cooled torch, one tank and foot control is about
$1600. It runs on a 50 amp circuit of 220 v single phase.

If you want to learn to weld , get real good with gas. I tell my students
to hold off on learning mig until they have gas under control , since it
gives you intense training in torch control and most important
...patience. And by the way skip stick welding unless you have to use it .
It just isn't worth it any more. 

As for gases; For steel 75% argon / 25% CO2 is the best general gas for
mig. For aluminum on mig; and steel and aluminum for tig run straight
Argon . For Stainless steel on tig run helium . 
If you own a few tanks , most gas suppliers will trade a bottle of one gas
for a bottle of another . Whenever I have had to Mig stainless I go and
swap one of my tanks for a tank of helium tri-mix. When I finish I swap it
back and only pay for the gas.
Buy your tanks if possible , if you rent them you will pay for them many
times over . Also gas tanks don't realy lose value over time.
I
Tank prices                  75/25               argon              
helium
30 cu.ft.      $50                $15                  $18                
  $20
64 cu.ft.      $80                  15                    18              
     20
120 cu.ft.    $110                20                    25                
   30
240 cu.ft.     $160               32                    45                
    55

Tanks under 120 cu.ft are usually chared a flat rate while those bigger
are charged by the cubic foot.
Hope this helps and isn't too much info. If you can find used equip  at
good prices stick with big names (miller, hobart, lincoln, airco, powcon)
or you will have a hard time finding parts.
 If you want to learn to weld I would suggest an evening course at your
local Junior Tech. college. It would give you a chance to try out the
machines without buying one and most instructors are really nice guys.





***********************************************************
*                    Ernie Leimkuhler                     *
*                 Stagesmith Productions                  *              *
               Custom Metal Fabrication                 *                 
   
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
*                      Renton, WA                         *
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
***********************************************************


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:11 EST 1995
Article: 10748 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anvil making Process
Date: 24 Mar 1995 01:58:54 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 40
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3ktqje$lab@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3kr1en$ndh@panix.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

danw@panix.com (Dan Wold) wrote:
>I certainly agree that cutting 4" plate is tricky. However, since you're
>going to be welding and grinding in later steps of the project I suggest
>cutting 4 identical pieces out of 1" plate and welding them together. It
not
>hard at all to get a smooth accurate cut on 1" plate. Just use a large
tip
>and plenty of oxygen pressure. Prior to welding the slabs together you
could
>cut in a 1" square hole by slotting a middle slab.


Nice idea except that it defeats the purpose of using a single slab.
Unless you have acces to a 20 ton press and can effectivley raise the temp
of your pieces to welding heat you will not get a solid anvil and it won't
ring. You may find that to be esoteric but I beg to differ. Most smiths
that do a lot of work will agree that the ring of an anvil directly
affects the amount of energy necessary to work the metal.

>If you went through this to create your own anvil I believe you deserve
some
>recognition or award. Perhaps "Metal-Smith of the Month"! :-)

 I did go through this and while I admit that I am about as crazy as they
come my main incentive was to avoid payung $1600 for the only good steel
anvil available from europe.

As for the award .             I would like to thank the
academy...........................


***********************************************************
*                    Ernie Leimkuhler                     *
*                 Stagesmith Productions                  *              *
               Custom Metal Fabrication                 *                 
   
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
*                      Renton, WA                         *
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
***********************************************************


From bobp@coho.halcyon.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:12 EST 1995
Article: 10749 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!nwnexus!news1.halcyon.com!coho!bobp
From: bobp@coho.halcyon.com (Bob Powell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: air compressor: quiet air supply
Date: 24 Mar 1995 07:03:54 GMT
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc.
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <3ktqsq$f7v@news1.halcyon.com>
References: <janecek-1503952118580001@janecek.tezcat.com> <D5J6wM.7LI@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <3ka1mt$khf@newsgate.sps.mot.com> <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com> <janecek-2203951343550001@janecek.tezcat.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: coho.halcyon.com

I've had a "PUMA" for 2 years, compressor made in Taiwan but has
a high-efficiency US-made induction motor.  Labeled 3 HP, draws
18A @ 120V, rated 4cfm @ 90psi.  Conventional belt-drive, oil in
the crankcase, works mounted over a 30 g horizontal tank, and
weighs a ton.  Very quiet, not at all unpleasant to have inside
the shop.  Cost $300 at a local contractor's tool store.  Seems
to be just right for my needs (nail guns, impact wrench, but no
"continuous drive" tools like die grinders).

janecek@tezcat.com (jim janecek) writes:

>In article <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com>,
>rcj@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com (R.C. Jones) wrote:

>> I have a Sears 3 hp air compressor that is about five years old.
>> When I use it for extended buffing/polishing now, it generates
>> an "expensive"  knocking sound that makes me think I'll need to
>> get a new one soon.
>>  Is there an FAQ on compressors? Could anyone recommend a preferred model?
>> I've heard that the "beltless/oil-less" ones are not so good. Comments
>> would be sincerely appreciated.


>I probably have the same model you do, only mine is about 6-7 years old.

>I've had no problems with it, have you ever changed the oil?
>If you can't figure out what's causing the knocking, you could just wait
>for it to fail, take it apart, (they're not that complex) and relace the
>parts from SEARS....

>If you still have the manual, if you don't I could copy the parts section
>and send it to you.
>You might spend $150 in parts, but that's cheaper than a whole new compressor.

>I also mistakenly purchased one of the newer 3hp "oil-less" direct-drive
>compressors and although its lighter (I move mine around a lot) it is the
>NOISIEST thing I have ever heard.

>If you wish to purchase another new belt-drive piston compressor, I'd go
>with a 2-3hp version from Grainger.  They are very quiet and seem to be
>much more reliable than the Devilbliss brand that Sears sells.

>-- 
>Jim Janecek
>janecek@tezcat.com
>Personal Effects inc.


From mascher@u.washington.edu Sun Mar 26 11:53:13 EST 1995
Article: 10750 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!mascher
From: mascher@u.washington.edu (Kelley Mascher)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Interesting web resou
Date: 24 Mar 1995 07:25:59 GMT
Organization: University of Washington
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <3kts67$24vk@nntp2.u.washington.edu>
References: <1735AB7F3S86.PRUITER@bcsc02.gov.bc.ca> <1995Ma <9503211920572474@nwcs.org> <3ko7mo$ohf@taco.cc.ncsu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nntp2.u.washington.edu

Ok, I can't take this thread anymore... and I can't resist it either.

The Thomas Register is NOT asking you for your account name and 
password. They simply want you to make one up for their security
purposes. Well, more likely so they won't try to get your 
mailing address more than once. Just use your imagination and
make up a name and password.

Sorry, I just couldn't take it anymore.

Kelley

npstewar@eos.ncsu.edu (Nathan Phillip Stewart) writes:

>In article <9503211920572474@nwcs.org> douglas.wiggins@nwcs.org (Douglas Wiggins) writes:
>>I am very glad that the Thomas Register is online, but it is very
>>scary when anyone asks for your passwords.

>>might want to use that resource. I always give a different password
>>than my regular passwords for such things - something I will
>>remember, but not anything that I use elsewhere.


>Noooooo - don't ever use your account password, or any password you
>use elsewhere. Even if _you_ don't care about security on a particular
>resource (fer' instance - local BBS', seldom used non critical things),
>admin types do care (like campus admins being worried about folks who
>never change their password from their SS#. A couple hundred accounts
>as such is a security risk.)

>Now back to metalwork.
>Nathan



From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Sun Mar 26 11:53:14 EST 1995
Article: 10751 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk (Charles Lamont)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
Subject: Re: Myford Super 7
References: <D5yIns.Mu8@world.std.com>
Organization: None
Reply-To: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  17
X-Posting-Host: abdab.demon.co.uk
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 1995 23:41:46 +0000
Message-ID: <54800857wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk

In article: <D5yIns.Mu8@world.std.com>
           jbottoms@world.std.com (John W Bottoms) writes:
> 
> I had assumed the Super 7 was a 7" lathe but I received an ad from
> a classified in HSM that said it was a 3 1/2" lathe. Are there 
> different ways of measuring this? (Diameter vs radius?)
> 
> -jb 

3 1/2 inch cetre height - UK designation.
7 inch swing (max dia over bed) - US designation, I think.
  
-- 
Charles Lamont




From carl620@delphi.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:15 EST 1995
Article: 10752 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!carl620
From: carl620@delphi.com (Carl Sutton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: knifemaking newsgroup?
Date: 26 Mar 1995 00:13:53 GMT
Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <9503251846591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1e.delphi.com
X-To: Carl Sutton <carl620@delphi.com>


> william c. wilson (wildbill@ilhawaii.net) wrote:
> 
> : Is there a seperate newsgroup for forging and stock reduction
> : knifemaking? If so what is it called?


    Not that I know of but there seem to be constant discusions
on the   rec.guns   Usenet group.

Hope this helps.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
===================================
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Perception/Awareness*Respect*Responsibility*Dignity*Communication
These are the Qualities that will make the Human Race Prosper
----------------------------------------------------------------------
     Carl Sutton  <Carl620@delphi.com>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
It is for Love of One's Self that One Respects and Love's his neighbor
It is the first step that makes the second possible
----------------------------------------------------------------------
PGP v2.6 Fingerprint:
95 f8 08 3B 05 E6 8A 35 0D 83 57 99 32 7B 0C 8E


From Wayne.Cochrane@telos.org Sun Mar 26 11:53:16 EST 1995
Article: 10753 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news.uunet.ca!uunet.ca!telos!Wayne.Cochrane
From: Wayne.Cochrane@telos.org (Wayne Cochrane)
Date: 25 Mar 95 18:19:46 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: EDM saw info wanted
Message-ID: <95e_9503251841@telos.org>
X-Mail-Agent: GIGO+ sn 127 at telos vsn 0.99 pl1
X-FTN-To: steamer@rain.org
Organization: TELOS Communications Inc.
Lines: 15

In [(INT) REC.CRAFTS.METALWORKING] on <25 Mar 95  19:47>, steamer@rain.org
wrote to All:

 st> From: steamer@rain.org ()
 st> Subject: Re: EDM saw info wanted
 st> Date: 25 Mar 1995 19:47:54 GMT
 st> Organization: RAIN Public Access Internet (805) 967-RAIN
 st> Message-Id: <3l1s1b$di3@news.rain.org>

EDM Electrical Discharge Machining..is sort of reverse arc welding.  The
electrode is the positive cut or formed into the shape you desire, any shape.
The part you want to "cut" is then negitively charged.  All takes place in a 
"dielectric fluid" like a basin or tub unit.  The disadvantage is..its
slow...the big advantage is it will "cut" through most any metel hard or soft
in any shape.  I have used it to cut gears, remove broken taps & such. 


From smloebl@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:18 EST 1995
Article: 10754 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!tcsi.tcs.com!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: smloebl@aol.com (Smloebl)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: cleaning oxydized copper
Date: 25 Mar 1995 19:10:11 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 4
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3l2bd3$jdq@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: smloebl@aol.com (Smloebl)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I have some copper pieces that are blackened with oxide
Can anyone suggest simple cleaning solutions that I can use to clean down
to the grains.  Using acid leaves some small pits which remain black
thanks 


From hayesp@delphi.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:19 EST 1995
Article: 10755 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: chatter on cut off tools
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 95 20:49:54 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <Rgw5-aq.hayesp@delphi.com>
References: <3john4$rhs@utopia.pinsight.com> <3jp12e$rdq@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <3jpr3n$e8r@news.rain.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com
X-To: <steamer@rain.org>

<steamer@rain.org> writes:
 
>: >I;m wondering how to eliminate chatter on parting tools ? I have tried 
>: >every thing from slow speed to fast speed . Lots of cutting oil and no 
>: >cutting oil. Any answers?
 
what material are you trying to cut? Generally you want to use the slowest
spindle speed possible for High Speed Steel Parting Tools, and as with any
machininngoperation,when your tool is surrounded on 3 sides with the part, use
LOTS of oilI find that grin
ding a "Hook" in the upper face of the tool is also helpful. Choke the tool up
in the holder as far as is possible while still reaching the cutting depth.
Squareness of your tool to the centerline is also increasingly critical as the
distance of plunge inc
reases. If none of this works for you you may want to think about buying a
Carbide Parting Tool. They are about $60, adn are available from MSC. Good luck!
 
Paul


From ernieleim@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:20 EST 1995
Article: 10756 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: cleaning oxydized copper
Date: 25 Mar 1995 19:50:04 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 24
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3l2dns$k3q@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3l2bd3$jdq@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

 smloebl@aol.com (Smloebl) wrote:


>I have some copper pieces that are blackened with oxide
>Can anyone suggest simple cleaning solutions that I can use to clean down
>to the grains.  Using acid leaves some small pits which remain black
>thanks 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hate to say this , but try tarn-x . the stuff actually works and is not
acidic. It is based on urea which pulls the oxygen out of the oxides.
I think you can still find it in hardware stores.

Hope this helps.


***********************************************************
*                    Ernie Leimkuhler                     *
*                 Stagesmith Productions                  *             
*                Custom Metal Fabrication                 *               
    
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
*                      Renton, WA                         *
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
***********************************************************


From barts@Eng.Sun.COM Sun Mar 26 11:53:21 EST 1995
Article: 10757 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!venus.sun.com!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM!usenet
From: barts@Eng.Sun.COM (Bart Smaalders)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Steam Engine Wanted
Date: 24 Mar 1995 18:25:53 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc.
Lines: 73
Message-ID: <3kv2rh$m1@engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM>
References: <D5woDn.K2D@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Reply-To: barts@Eng.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber.eng.sun.com

In article K2D@boss.cs.ohiou.edu,  kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler ) writes:
>>
>>>It may be the perspective, but 5-10 hp steam engines IMHO are not small.
>>
>>Yes indeed! They are not for the livingroom! I once owned a "small"
>>mill engine of about seven hp.The idea was to run a cutoff saw for
>>stove wood and have fun blowing a whistle. The engine was a full load
>>for a half ton, size wise, and an overload weightwise, so it must have
>>been about fifteen hundred pounds and about seven by four feet. The
>>boiler I had was about three by five verticle and I could only get
>>enough steam to run at about 20 rpm, as I recall, Nowhere near enough
>>to do any work. It_was_fun though.:-) I ultimately traded the whole
>
>This is an exceptionally interesting discussion for those interested in
>the history of technology.  So "small: steam engines are big, and they need
>a big, hot boiler to work.  An earlier post and its replies about the
>dangers of home-made boilers were equally illuminating.  No wonder the
>electric motor and internal combustion engine replaced steam for smaller
>applications so quickly.  I suppose that we have to repeat the past in
>order to understand it. 
>                                                     M Kinsler
>

This is a bit of a sweeping generalization.  Remember that if one
produces a steam engine and boiler _with_ _the_ _same_ _level_ _of_
_technical_ _sophistication_ as an internal combustion engine, you
end up with a much more comparable device.  Remember, the
early gas engines had similar power to weight ratios to steam engines.

By way of example, the steam engine in my boat uses technology & stress
levels from about 1880.  This implies 125 psi steam, not too much 
superheat, and a small water tube boiler.  The entire power plant
weighs over 400 lbs, and produces 2 hp.  Not much to compare with a 
Briggs and Stratton, although a lot more pleasant to sit next to
all day.

A friend of mine has chosen to build something else - he has a steam
outboard.  It uses a small flash boiler built from 1/8" pipe, burns
solid fuel and the entire things weighs just under 100 lbs.  It uses
poppet valves, turns 3000 rpm rather than the 500 or so mine does, and
pushes his metal jon boat faster than a 7 hp gas outboard.  The steam 
conditions at full power are something like 800 psi and 800 F, so stainless
valves, etc, are the order of the day.  

Now, keeping this thing stoked (the boiler is about 6" by 12" by 12") 
with pine cones, sticks, etc, is a busy task at full throttle, but it
will troll all day on a bag of wood scraps and smells a lot nicer than
a gas outboard while doing so.... 

Gas engines probably replaced steam engines so quickly because it was
possible to build them cheaply in small sizes and make them portable
for use around the farm, and they could get enough power out to make
planning boats possible.  The fact that you didn't need a licensed
steam engineer to run 'em didn't hurt either, and in those days
gasoline was a waste product from the production of kerosene for
cooking & lighting.  The gas engines were much more efficient than
the steam plants of the day, and the efficiency was "built-in";
in a steam plant the fuel efficiency depends a lot on insulation
and other installation details.

As to the dangers of home-made boilers, in small sizes this is greatly
over-rated.  Using reasonable engineering standards and water-tube 
construction, a reasonably skilled welder can produce a fine
boiler w/o undue risk to himself or by-standers.  The steamboaters
and live steam loco folks are good examples of this.

- Bart Smaalders








From jbottoms@world.std.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:22 EST 1995
Article: 10758 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!news.kei.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!world!jbottoms
From: jbottoms@world.std.com (John W Bottoms)
Subject: Myford Super 7
Message-ID: <D5yIns.Mu8@world.std.com>
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 18:14:16 GMT
Lines: 5

I had assumed the Super 7 was a 7" lathe but I received an ad from
a classified in HSM that said it was a 3 1/2" lathe. Are there 
different ways of measuring this? (Diameter vs radius?)

-jb


From pappaxmas@aol.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:24 EST 1995
Article: 10759 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: pappaxmas@aol.com (Pappa Xmas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: grinding, buffing on a wood lathe??
Date: 25 Mar 1995 22:15:30 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 5
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3l2m8i$m92@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: pappaxmas@aol.com (Pappa Xmas)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I seems to me that I could mount a grinding wheel to my woodlathe using a
work arbor...the tool rest would still serve as a tool rest.  Is this
common practice?  Am I going down a dangerious road?

Leonard, a novice


From jay_d@rmii.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:25 EST 1995
Article: 10760 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!swiss.ans.net!potogold.rmii.com!jay_d.lms.com!jay_d
From: jay_d@rmii.com (Jay de Halas)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Is there an archive site for this news group?
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 1995 13:09:52 LOCAL
Organization: Philips LMS
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <jay_d.19.00F6B519@rmii.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jay_d.lms.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

I was wondering if there was an archive site for this news group, and if so, 
where is it ?

Thanks !!

Jay de Halas
jay@rmii.com


From Wayne.Cochrane@telos.org Sun Mar 26 11:53:26 EST 1995
Article: 10761 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!news.uunet.ca!uunet.ca!telos!Wayne.Cochrane
From: Wayne.Cochrane@telos.org (Wayne Cochrane)
Date: 26 Mar 95 06:57:09 -0500
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: grinding, buffing on a wood lathe??
Message-ID: <a3d_9503260723@telos.org>
X-Mail-Agent: GIGO+ sn 127 at telos vsn 0.99 pl1
X-FTN-To: Pappa Xmas
Organization: TELOS Communications Inc.
Lines: 26

In [(INT) REC.CRAFTS.METALWORKING] on <25 Mar 95  22:15>, Pappa Xmas wrote to
All:

 PX> From: pappaxmas@aol.com (Pappa Xmas)
 PX> Subject: grinding, buffing on a wood lathe??
 PX> Date: 25 Mar 1995 22:15:30 -0500
 PX> Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
 PX> Message-Id: <3l2m8i$m92@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
 PX> Reply-To: pappaxmas@aol.com (Pappa Xmas)

 PX> I seems to me that I could mount a grinding wheel to my woodlathe using a
 PX> work arbor...the tool rest would still serve as a tool rest.  Is this
 PX> common practice?  Am I going down a dangerious road?

No its done all the time.  Its used on metal lathes to re-grind the dead & live
ceters as the compound can be used for the correct angle..

CAUTION is in respect to the lathe itself..in particularly the bed ways.  What
I usually do is lightly wet a shop rag in the coolant tank, then place it
across the bed.  This keeps the dust & floppy edges of the rag down as well as
protect the bed.  Also rem. to run spindle speed slow & have the grinding wheel
in reverse direction of lathe spindle or vise-versa. That way chatter will be
kept to a min. they won't what to "climb".  Also don't take a large "cut".
You'll find that a few thousands (extream light cut) will do wonders it also
will show where the high spots are & not damage wheel.



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:53:27 EST 1995
Article: 10762 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: chemical etching question
Date: 23 Mar 1995 06:40:53 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 29
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3kr55l$bhb@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <janecek-1503952118580001@janecek.tezcat.com> <D5J6wM.7LI@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU> <3ka1mt$khf@newsgate.sps.mot.com> <21212@lhdsy1.lahabra.chevron.com> <3kqj6l$k5p@news1.svc> <3kqkjo$kkq@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Jon Lake (jlake@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: I would like to make some small flat prototype parts and I think that
: chemical etching would give me the best quality.  Are there any
: "hobbiest" kits out there for chemical etching or should I try to
: avoid doing this myself?  I would like the material to be copper, but
: aluminum would work.  On occasion, I would like to make small, flat

This is very similar to the manufacture of printed circuit boards.  The metal
on a PC board is about .001 to .002 copper, laminated to a fiberglass
substrate.  What you want to do is exactly the same thing without the
substrate.  I have tried several processes, and had poor results.
The material I now use is "dry film resist", made by DuPont and others.
It is a standard material in the printed circuit industry.  It is hot-roll
laminated onto the copper, exposed to UV light through a photo-master,
and developed with Sodium Carbonate.  The copper is then etched with Ferric
Chloride, or similar acidic etchant.  (Alkaline etchants will dissolve
the resist.)  The resist is then stripped with Lye (I use Drano crystals,
making a new solution each time).  This process is discussed in newsgroup
alt.electronics.cad in much detail.  This process should work fine for you,
too.  Making the photo-master from a laser printer output is a little tricky.
I contact expose KODAK GLP-7 photoplotter film, and then may contact print
that again to get back to a positive.  Any high-contrast litho film will 
work.  It takes a lot of light to penetrate the laser printer paper, so
you might want to use laser transparencies.  You probably still need the
litho film, however, because the contrast ratio of laser printer output is
not as high as you might think.  Copying to the litho film greatly enhances
the contrast of the laser printed original.  If you have any questions,
E-Mail me.  Oh, yes, the dry film resist is available from suppliers to the
printed circuit board industry.  Kepro in St. Louis sells it, among others.


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:53:29 EST 1995
Article: 10763 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Enco Mill and CCNC
Date: 23 Mar 1995 06:51:48 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3kr5q4$bhb@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <dmauch.2.2F70E7D6@dmauch.seanet.com> <3kqsjh$26cm@tequesta.gate.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

: Could your stepper motor be loosing/missing steps???  I have found that
: too high of a move rate will cause missed steps, thus inacurate movement.
: Also overloading can cause missed steps, as in too small of a power supply
: or motor too small for application.

Yes, but it moved TOO FAR!  It only took 3930 steps for 1", instead of 4000.
Well, checking the leadscrew should be easy.  Move in + direction to get
dial indicator to an even mark.  Make a mark with felt-tip pen on lead-screw.
Have computer move 1.000 inch in same direction.  You should see the pen 
mark move exactly 5 revolutions and return the pen mark to exactly the same
position.  If it doesn't, then the computer or motor is the problem.  If it
does, then the lead screw may well be off.  If the computer is the problem,
see if there is a software compensation for lead screw errors.  You probably
want to set error compensation to 1:1 unless an error is found.  3930 rings
a bell, however.  Isn't a Meter 39.3 inches long?  Could this be a china
import, with metric screws and calibrated dials on the handwheels patched
to show thousandths?  I've got their china 3-in-1 mill/drill/lathe that is
made that way, but I know about it.  So, maybe the screw is a 5mm thread,
not a 5 threads / inch. 5 turns gives 25mm, not 25.4mm=1".


From hentelef@access.mbnet.mb.ca Sun Mar 26 11:53:30 EST 1995
Article: 10764 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!pipex!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!hentelef
From: hentelef@access.mbnet.mb.ca (Jacob Henteleff)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Little Engines
Date: 26 Mar 1995 15:39:26 GMT
Organization: The University of Manitoba
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <3l41re$7s4@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca>
References: <3l31a9$eam@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: access.mbnet.mb.ca


Sir! Try looking at a few copies of Live Steam for info an additional 
parts and plans. Also try running an ad in one issue. 

BTW if you are in any doubt about whether you got a good deal wait til 
you see current prices. If you are still in doubt I will buy then from you 
with no questions asked at the price you paid for them. :-)

Meanwhile do not make a decision in haste. I am at the expansion link 
stage of Petrolia, an LBSC 2-4-0 that was serialized form Oct. 1943 to 
June 1945. In other words it will be some time before I get around to 
another loco.

Jacob Henteleff, Editor for the Manitoba Live Steamers

jacob_henteleff@mbnet.mb.ca


From dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:31 EST 1995
Article: 10765 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!kaleka.seanet.com!dmauch.seanet.com!dmauch
From: dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Enco Mill and CCNC
Date: Sun, 26 Mar 1995 15:52:03 GMT
Organization: OSD, Inc.
Lines: 6
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <dmauch.15.2F758DA2@dmauch.seanet.com>
References: <dmauch.2.2F70E7D6@dmauch.seanet.com> <3kqsjh$26cm@tequesta.gate.net> <1995Mar24.081238.9483@roper.uwyo.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dmauch.seanet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]


>This also points out the significant advantage of using a position sensor
>and a closed-feedback loop, instead of the less-expensive open-loop design.
>Missed steps would be noticed by the electronics, and retried.

True but very expensive. Add at least $800 to the cost


From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:53:34 EST 1995
Article: 10766 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Reading a Caliper
Date: 24 Mar 1995 06:25:10 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <3ktok6$1bc@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <3kruc3$ns8@linus.mitre.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Bruce Giller (bgiller@mitre.org) wrote:
: I have a 6" caliper that measures in both inches and mm.  It is
: supposed to go down to the .001 level but I haven't figured out how to
: do that; I can get to the .1 level easy enough.

This is what is called a "vernier" caliper.  I've been using one so long I
don't know how I do it, I just do it.  But, this is how it works.
The scale should have three marks between each .1"  So it directly reads out
to .025", but only every .1" is marked with a number.  So, read the tenths,
then count how many marks are past the tenth, and add .025 (25 thousandths)
for each mark on the fixed scale to the left of the "zero" mark.
Now, for the vernier.  If the jaws are not on an exact spacing of some
multiple of .025", the "zero" mark will not line up with one of the marks
on the fixed scale.  Search down the moving scale "0 5 10 15 ..." until you
find one of the lines there that lines up exactly with a line on the fixed
scale.  The line on the moving scale which is most closely aligned with
a line opposite it is the amount to add to the reading already computed.
So, you add the whole inches, tenths, 25 thousandths, and then from 1 to
24 thousandths all together to get the complete reading.  It takes a bit of
practice.  Pull a hair from your head (I recommend finding a loose one) and
measure it.  Can your eye detect that the #1 line (just right of the zero)
is better lined up with the line above than the zero is?  That's how you
read .001"  Well, the problem with a vernier is that it takes a sharp eye,
and you can make addition errors.  The problem with a dial caliper is 
that the gear can jump a tooth due to a chip in the rack.  I strongly
recommend a "shielded rack" version.  Also, a vernier measures inches and
mm on two scales.  Only the fanciest dials have two pointers and racks for
both inches and mm.  If you have the money, the digital electronic calipers
are great.  But they are quite expensive.  A fine 6" vernier goes for $39,
a good dial for $59, but I no longer see any digitals for less than $100.


From frank@iris.superlink.net Sun Mar 26 11:53:35 EST 1995
Article: 10767 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!earth.superlink.net!iris!frank
From: frank@iris.superlink.net (Mid Atlantic Training)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Metal Lathe
Date: 26 Mar 1995 16:13:53 GMT
Organization: SuperLink Internet Services, NJ, USA
Lines: 32
Message-ID: <3l43s1$i1v@earth.superlink.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mars.superlink.net
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

For Sale Emco Maier Compact 8 Lathe
This is brand new used as floor demo only. One only available at dealer 
cost $2500 or best offer. Will deliver to New Jersey, Eastern PA, Metro NY 
at no charge.

Includes: Base unit, stand, milling drilling attachment, chucks and some 
tools. Call for more details. 

Swing over bed        8.2"
Center Height         4.1"
Swing over cross      4.6"
Feeds via lead screw  .0035" per rev std.
distance between centers  17.7"
spindle speeds        120/300/400/600/1000/2000
thread pitches        10 - 44 tpi

This is an opportunity to own a nice lathe at dealer cost! Call or E-Mail 
to discuss it.




--
-----------------------------------|---------------------------------------
 Frank Kaplan                      |    Suppliers of Technology Education   
 frank@mars.superlink.net          |  for Education and Training since 1987
 Mid-Atlantic Training             |
                                   |
 PO Box 1012                       |  We Support Technology Education
 East Brunswick, NJ 08816          |
 Tel 908-613-8093 FAX 908-254-3153 |
-----------------------------------|---------------------------------------


From howard@perth.DIALix.oz.au Sun Mar 26 11:53:36 EST 1995
Article: 10768 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!DIALix!not-for-mail
From: howard@perth.DIALix.oz.au (Howard Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Homemade Anvils
Date: 26 Mar 1995 14:48:49 +0800
Organization: DIALix Services, Perth, Australia.
Lines: 17
Sender: howard@perth.DIALix.oz.au
Message-ID: <3l32oh$kj1$1@perth.DIALix.oz.au>
References: <3kjqn2$c80@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3ki82j$1jv@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <1995Mar22.182436.18243@ttinews.tti.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: perth.dialix.oz.au
NNTP-Posting-User: howard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Pete Bellas (bellas@soldev.TTI.COM) wrote:
: While on the subject of homemade anvils I have a couple more questions.
: I am contemplating making an anvil out of railroad track. The problem is

: Questions, is railroad track heat treated at all? If not is there any way

It sure is !, BHP in australia have a patented process which substantially
hardens the upper surface making it a better rail.
The surface is heated to red heat by gas flame (i think) and it is immediately
quenched by liquid gas (co2 i think). 

also you could expect all that rolling stock passing over it to have work
hardened the surface as well.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Howard Jones, (howard@perth.dialix.oz.au)                      _--_|\
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu Sun Mar 26 11:53:37 EST 1995
Article: 10769 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.ksu.ksu.edu!news.mid.net!crcnis3.unl.edu!unlinfo.unl.edu!mjj
From: mjj@unlinfo.unl.edu (michael jensen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Government Work
Date: 24 Mar 1995 20:57:58 GMT
Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln	
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3kvbom$clc@crcnis3.unl.edu>
References: <3kq0c8$s6a@elvis.vnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: unlinfo2.unl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

murr rhame (murr@elvis.vnet.net) wrote:
: Curious about the slang term "government work".  In every shop I've been
: in government work has been used to describe a machinist doing personal
: work.  This is true in shops that have never had a government contract. 
: I've asked folks about it who are from many states up and down the east
: coast.  Every machinist I've asked is familiar with the term.  Is anyone
: from the west half of the US or other countries familiar with this slang? 


: - Murr "just did some government work after hours yesterday" Rhame

The term that I have heard used is G-job, short for a job for the 
Goverment.

--
Mike Jensen (MJJ@UNL.EDU) 
Chemistry Instrument Shop              
University of Nebraska - Lincoln
(402) 472-3542


From mrehmus@grayfax.com Sun Mar 26 11:53:38 EST 1995
Article: 10770 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!decwrl!svc.portal.com!usenet
From: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Little Engines
Date: 26 Mar 1995 06:24:09 GMT
Organization: Portal Communications (service)
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <3l31a9$eam@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jobe.shell.portal.com

I just purchase a few pieces of the 3/4 scale Hudson 4-6-4
locomotive that were purchased in 1971 from Little Engines.

I got the frames (bronze), drive boxes, equalizer levers,
6 drive wheels already machined, the domes for the boiler and
the smokestack.  Paid $55 for the lot.  Hope it is worth it.

Now I need to find the rest of the castings, construction
notes and drawings.

I know that Little Engines has had a few problems recently but
they are still alive if not completely well.  Last I heard, the
product line was divided between two new companies.

Does anyone have a line on where I might find the steam-side of
the new "little engines?"

Alternatively, does anyone have bits and pieces for this engine?

BTW, this engine completely dwarfs the TICH on which I am presently
working.  The Hudson's drive wheels are 5/7ths the height of the
entire TICH!

Best,

Mike Rehmus

mrehmus@grayfax.com
408 251-9959
408 251-0264 fax


From v040601@denab.stortek.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:11 EDT 1995
Article: 11065 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!stortek!denab.stortek.com!v040601
From: v040601@denab.stortek.com (Mark McDade (303) 673-6841)
Subject: Re: MIG Welders
Message-ID: <D6o67v.CuB@stortek.com>
Sender: news@stortek.com
Organization: StorageTek - TFTH
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <arlenac-0404951955030001@blv-pm0-ip4.halcyon.com> <janecek-0504951839200001@204.248.2.116>
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 1995 14:43:07 GMT
Lines: 27

Jim Janecek (janecek@tezcat.com) wrote:
: In article <arlenac-0404951955030001@blv-pm0-ip4.halcyon.com>,
: arlenac@halcyon.com (Arlen) wrote:

: > Has anyone had any experience with the small,wire feed MIG welders,either
: > the 110 volt units or the 220 volt models. I would be using it to weld
: > 3/4" and 1" square tubing and thin wall 1" round tubing.  Any comments
: > would be appreciated

I've worked quite a bit with a friend of mine to fix a cheap British
MIG unit - we've about given up.  The wire feed isn't smooth enough and
can't be controlled at slow speed.  The feed motor and drive should be
bigger and have constant torque at any speed.  Also, he replaced the
entire feed tube from the unit to the tip with an American one that's
smoother - that helped some but the wire feed is still not adequately
controllable for really precise work.

An unrelated problem was that the unit used huge amounts of expensive
shield gas.  I found a tiny Dwyer flow gage and put it in the
line and we could see that the regulator was set way too high (it's
been several months but my memory is that we ended up as low
as 0.8 cubic feet per hour when we were getting best results).

Mark McDade

mark_mcdade@stortek.com



From pate@vxc.uncwil.edu Tue Apr 11 23:15:13 EDT 1995
Article: 11066 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!sol.cms.uncwil.edu!anvil.ads.uncwil.edu!pate
From: pate@vxc.uncwil.edu (Bill Pate)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: re: chop saw/band saw
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 1995 16:34:55
Organization: University of North Carolina at Wilmington
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <pate.6.00109580@vxc.uncwil.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: anvil.ads.uncwil.edu
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

I have one of each type. The band saw gets much more use both in the 
'self-propeled' mode and upright with handheld  work.  It is especially useful 
for small pieces - I use it like a hack saw.   The chop saw will do things the 
band saw will not. For example, cutting hardened steel,  and cutting hot 
steel straight out of the forge.  

I also use the band saw for materials other than steel when the need arises.  
Get the band saw first, is my suggestion, and make sure you have a source for 
whatever length blade your's requires. They always break when the stores are 
closed.


From kimberln@crl.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:15 EDT 1995
Article: 11067 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!chicagokent.kentlaw.edu!iitmax.acc.iit.edu!uchinews!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!crl5.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: surplus property
Date: 7 Apr 1995 18:36:41 -0700
Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access	(415) 705-6060  [login: guest]
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <3m4pb9$nma@crl5.crl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl5.crl.com

Went to Westec recently and found that the US Gov has a homepage for 
defense surplus property disposal.  Machine tools, and about everything 
else, are listed in an on-line catalogue.

Try http://131.87.1.51 or http://www.drms.dla.mil.

JerryK


From rockwell@pcnet.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:17 EDT 1995
Article: 11068 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!pcnet.com!pcnet.com!not-for-mail
From: rockwell@pcnet.com (Toby Rockwell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Drop hammer forming ???
Date: 6 Apr 1995 07:18:43 -0400
Organization: PCNet, Connecticut's Internet Provider
Lines: 40
Message-ID: <3m0imj$d4t@pcnet1.pcnet.com>
References: <1995Apr5.232154.1@vax.cerritos.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pcnet1.pcnet.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Chris (morle001@cerritos.edu) wrote:
: HELLO....HAS ANYONE DONE ANY DROP HAMMER  work , at a small shop or at home ? I
: see in the old sheet metal books how they had drop hammers that they pulled up
: with a rope +pulleys.  then "let her rip !" 

At my shop we do drop hammer work every day.  Original machines were 
operated with a rope.  we have one such machine with a 90# hammer or head 
or punch.  that is no longer in use as it would never meet OSHA specs.  

Our other drop hammer is a Pneumatic Drop Hammer and is air operated with 
safety doors to protect the operator.  many old ones were foot 
activated.  Imagine getting a 90# weight dropped on your hand from 6' 
up?  ours is  double palm valve activated. 

: I need to do some forming and was
: wondering if I cold make a plaster pattern and drop it into rubber. Or is there
: a better way ?.......or maybe not....thanks....Chris

Our dies and punches are all made from steel.  the punches are generally 
softer than the dies, of course, and some of our oldest punches and 
dies are not hardened at all.  All are metal, however, I believe that 
plaster would disintegrate. 

I have never heard of much success with 
other materials tho I did speak to someone recently who was trying to do 
something with epoxy and a drop hammer.  

The blow can be set very light--which can be done with the air 
hammer to a very high degree, or with the rope hammer by simply being 
very careful not to whack real hard, but I still think that it would be 
easy to destroy punch and maybe die too.
  
I hope I have answered your questions, please feel free to ask again if 
you want to know more.  Barbara Rockwell
 
******************************************************************
*  Barb Rockwell                 |      rockwell@pnet.com        *
*  203-229-3333                  +      p00220@psilink.com       *
*  FAX: 203-635-6473             V      Kensington, CT  06037    *
*****-------+------->        terrapin      <---------+--------****


From brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:19 EDT 1995
Article: 11069 of rec.crafts.metalworking
From: brooksp@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Peter Brooks)
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 1995 22:43:23 GMT
Subject: Re: Myford ML-7 Lathe info Urgently Needed
Message-ID: <101260014@hpcc01.corp.hp.com>
Organization: the HP Corporate notes server
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!siemens!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.corp.hp.com!hpcc01!brooksp
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <D6Is5E.DKC@freenet.carleton.ca>
Lines: 8

I've an article in an old (pre-color) copy of Fine Woodworking about a
woodturner who uses a standard metal-turning lathe.  Unless one turned
green wood, there should be no trouble with rust.  Grit could be a
problem with abrasive woods, such as teak or particle board, for that
matter.

Pete Brooks



From jaf@a2.cim.cdc.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:20 EDT 1995
Article: 11070 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.kreonet.re.kr!insosf1.infonet.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!cdsmail!a2.cim.cdc.com!jaf
From: jaf@a2.cim.cdc.com (James Foster x2912)
Subject: Re: Brass pipe soldering
Sender: usenet@cdsmail.cdc.com (John P Ehrenberg)
Message-ID: <D6MCp3.41o@cdsmail.cdc.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 15:07:50 GMT
References:  <1995Apr4.125131.3374@news.uit.no>
Organization: Control Data Systems
Keywords: Brass pipe soldering
Lines: 22

In article <1995Apr4.125131.3374@news.uit.no>, stigo@stud.cs.uit.no (Stig Opdoehl) writes:
|> I'm in the process of rebarreling a paintgun. I need to solder a pipe (barrel) on top of
|> a second pipe (gun body). How should this assembly be alligned. 

Straight, I'd guess B^). Are you asking how it should be held in place? In soldering
musical instruments we had some specialized clamping fixtures, but the mainstay
was soft iron wire. I don't recall the gauge, but I'd guess around 20 or so. In this
case I'd put a loop around the pair of tubes every 2" or so and twist the ends snug
but not so tight you deform or dent the tubes. It dosen't take that much pressure
to hold them together. We used iron so in cases where the wire would run very close
to the solder seam we wouldn't run the risk of soldering the wire to the horn. 

|> On top of this double
|> pipe assembly a third pipe must be soldered vertically to the top pipe 9barrel). how can
|> this third pipe de soldered on without the heat un soldering the first pipe assembly
|> (barrel/body)? 

Put wet cloth strips along the body seam. Use a relatively hot flame to get the 
area up to soldering temperature quickly before too much heat spreads to the body.
Direct most of the flame at the base of the vertical tube. As soon as you're done
use a spray water bottle to cool the whole thing.  IMHO. YMMV.



From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Tue Apr 11 23:15:23 EDT 1995
Article: 11071 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!rochester!cornellcs!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!news.tc.cornell.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: Re: ???Welding Wire Ends, How Do I Do It???
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Message-ID: <D6p2GD.51v@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Sender: postmaster@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Organization: Ohio University, College of Engineerng & Technology
References: <D6KnCw.I03@ssbunews.ih.att.com> <3m1jd0$4f@igate2.cyanamid.com> <D6oBwG.18I@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 1995 02:19:24 GMT
Lines: 13

>Now that I think of it, how are all those small bars attached to the
>frame on wire closet shelves, and  refrigerator shelves??

When I taught a course for the industrial technology program at Ohio U 
last fall they made the mistake of giving me keys to all the machine 
rooms.  I had orders from Natalie to fix the thin wire rack on which we 
cool freshly-baked bread.  Without knowing what I was doing and guessing 
at pressure and current settings, I was able to use the big spot welder 
in the sheet metal shop to weld two joints back together.  I can barely 
distinguish my work from the factory welds.  So I guess they use electric 
spot welds.  It doesn't leave any marks or discoloration if you do it 
right and polish or plate the work after it's been welded.
                                                M Kinsler


From mbushore@icaen.uiowa.edu Tue Apr 11 23:15:26 EDT 1995
Article: 11072 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.uiowa.edu!icaen!icaen.uiowa.edu!mbushore
From: mbushore@icaen.uiowa.edu (Matt Bushore)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Mo' Welder Advice
Date: 8 Apr 1995 03:44:35 GMT
Organization: Iowa Computer Aided Engineering Network, University of Iowa
Lines: 38
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3m50r3$g60@news.icaen.uiowa.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: l-ecn014.icaen.uiowa.edu


	We have finally convinced the administration here at school
that we should be allowed to spend our student group money on buying
some equipment to build our mini-baja car.

We need
a welder
a bandsaw
a tubing miterer
a drill press.

	We are looking at, and have pretty much decided on one of those little
joint cutters they advertise in the back of racing magazines.  We are looking
for a drill press to mount it on, but aren't sure what speed range we need to
cut 1 inch holes in mild steel tubing (this is a question:) )

	Unfortunately, due to budget constraints, we are likely going to
end up with some of Enco's finest.

	The bandsaw will be mainly used to cut 1/8 plate steel, and tubing.
Again, this will likely end up being a sub $200 death machine. Opinions?


	What I am really at a loss for is the welder.  I have used a small
125v, 100 amp Mig in the past, and it will likely work for building our
rollcage and other assorted items.  I wasn't impressed with the machines, but
this comes after using the larger Miller with a good wirefeed, and good power.

	I have also been using a Tig here at school so far on the project,
and have really grown to like the way the welds look, and the controllability.
The problem being is that the Tig will be more expensive, and may require more
training to teach others how to use it effectively.  The Mig seems to be more
of a point and shoot item.

	Any advice or ideas on who to contact for more information?

Thanks,
Matt


From stigo@stud.cs.uit.no Tue Apr 11 23:15:28 EDT 1995
Article: 11073 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!news.pop.psu.edu!psuvax1!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!EU.net!dkuug!Norway.EU.net!trane.uninett.no!news.uit.no!stud.cs.uit.no!stigo
From: stigo@stud.cs.uit.no (Stig Opdoehl)
Subject: Brass pipe soldering
Sender: news@news.uit.no (News)
Message-ID: <1995Apr4.125131.3374@news.uit.no>
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 12:51:31 GMT
Organization: University of Tromsoe
Keywords: Brass pipe soldering
Lines: 9

I'm in the process of rebarreling a paintgun. I need to solder a pipe (barrel) on top of
a second pipe (gun body). How should this assembly be alligned. On top of this double
pipe assembly a third pipe must be soldered vertically to the top pipe 9barrel). how can
this third pipe de soldered on without the heat un soldering the first pipe assembly
(barrel/body)? Does anybody have a source of brass pipes with a inner diameter of .68"
+ - 0,3mm? 
Please E mail me.
stig 



From rogerm@fc.hp.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:30 EDT 1995
Article: 11074 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!simtel!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!rogerm
From: rogerm@fc.hp.com (Roger Mitchell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: welding gas bottle fittings
Date: 4 Apr 1995 14:23:12 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
Lines: 24
Message-ID: <3lrkog$qi0@tadpole.fc.hp.com>
References: <2609@sun3.IPSWITCH.COM>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hpmitc.fc.hp.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1.4]

Most welding supplies also carry the the fittings
needed to change standard regulators over to the
smaller cylinders. A 10 Cu Ft Oxygen tank will last
real quick, especially doing any cutting. You might
consider at least a B tank of Acetylene and about a 
70 Cu Ft Oxygen Cylinder. They are still easily
transportable and don't cost much more than the
smaller cylinders. It also cost just about as much
to refill a small cylinder as it does a larger one,
another factor to consider. For soldering you might
do with an air acetylene torch you might consider
a Bernz-O-Matic type torch with MAP gas. It burns 
almost as hot and is quite a bit safer. When using
acetylene, under no circumstances, operate the 
acetylene line above 15 PSI. If you do, you will
be asking for some serious trouble. Under those
conditions, Acetylene can explode by it self without
the presence of air or oxygen. I know of at least
one person who accidently killed him self in this
manner.
			Roger Mitchell
			Vice President and Master Mechanic
			Fort Collins Municipal Railway



From valenti665@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:31 EDT 1995
Article: 11075 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!chicagokent.kentlaw.edu!iitmax.acc.iit.edu!uchinews!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: valenti665@aol.com (Valenti665)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: FABA Meeting Tallahassee 4/8/95
Date: 5 Apr 1995 13:23:34 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 7
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3lujmm$408@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: valenti665@aol.com (Valenti665)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

There will be a great statewide meeting of FABA (Fla. Artist Blacksmith
Association) this comming weekend outside Tallahassee, Fla  with classes,
demonstrations,  sales, trading of tools, and etc..  Anyone interested
should E-mail me or call me for directions at 904-656-0179.  It will start
about 9 and run till 4 or so.  There is also a mountain man rendevous with
smiths and other period crafts people a few miles away;  it is going on
now and will continue thru Sunday.    Jeff in Tally


From drayegon@america.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:33 EDT 1995
Article: 11076 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!america.com!usenet
From: drayegon@america.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Metal Spinning Lathe: Wanted
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 95 11:15:51 EDT
Organization: PSS InterNet Services, InterNet in Fl 904 253 7100
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <NEWTNews.16637.797101023.drayegon@drayegon.america.com>
References: <3lk9oi$b9i@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: kirov.ppp
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
X-Newsreader: NEWTNews & Chameleon -- TCP/IP for MS Windows from NetManage


In article <3lk9oi$b9i@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, <fcdtinman@aol.com> writes:
>     Also, let's swap spinning skill
> stories.
> 
I used to be able to do some spinning but no equipment right now. Would you be 
able to spin some aluminum parabolic reflectors in the 3ft range?

If so how much would they run. I might have quite a few people intersted in 
them. If they could be done fairly reasonable.

tnx for you help Ray
drayegon@america.com



From pp000146@interramp.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:35 EDT 1995
Article: 11077 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!psinntp!interramp.com!usenet
From: pp000146@interramp.com (Carol & Pete Jobusch)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: FREE 2-1/2" Scale Narrow Gauge Railroad Catalog
Date: 5 Apr 1995 23:45:46 GMT
Organization: PSI Public Usenet Link
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <3lva3a$ls9@usenet.interramp.com>
References: <3l988k$3t0@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <839444410wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk> <D684Hw.GKz@nntpa.cb.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ip152.herndon2.va.interramp.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.99.2

I frankly welcome the presence of some "advertising" in the group,
such as this announcement by, one presumes, a fellow hobbiest who
is making the investment to fill a perecived void in the hobby.

The economics of such basement operations are not good -- his must
be a labor of love.

On the other hand --- this IS NOT an open invitation for commercial
junk mail --- just an indication of tolerance for the occasional post
by the collective community of small suppliers, 'cause, frankly,
it is probably the only way we will find out about their products.



From rbuxton1@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:36 EDT 1995
Article: 11078 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rbuxton1@aol.com (RBuxton1)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: chatter on cut off tools
Date: 6 Apr 1995 18:44:25 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 10
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3m1qs9$snr@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <Rgw5-aq.hayesp@delphi.com>
Reply-To: rbuxton1@aol.com (RBuxton1)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

There is something else you may consider.  I have heard it said that
mounting a cut off tool behind the work cures this problem.  The cross
slide needs to have T slots in it in order to mount such a cut off tool. 
Most of us do not have lathes with these slots.  I recently purchased a
casting to replace the cross slide on my lathe that will allow me to mount
the cut off tool behind the work.  I wish I could say it is finished and
give you the results, but perhaps knowing about the process, you can ask
and see if someone has used the setup.
Good Luck!
Rick


From rbuxton1@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:37 EDT 1995
Article: 11079 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: rbuxton1@aol.com (RBuxton1)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tool post grinder
Date: 6 Apr 1995 18:51:13 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 13
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3m1r91$squ@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: rbuxton1@aol.com (RBuxton1)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I just discovered this newsgroup, which is fortunate because I need
assistance with a project.  I am making the Tiny Power M1 5HP steam
engine.  I needed to make a smooth stainless steel shaft that runs in a
packing gland, so it has to be smooth.  I machined the necessary diameter
plus a couple of thousandths and set up the tool post grinder.  I am
unable to get a smooth finish.  My results appear to be many small flats
rather than a ground surface.  It looks like a harmonic pattern but there
was no sound to indicate that was the cause.  I tried many speeds and
feeds without any luck.  Needles to say, the part is now undersized, but I
would like to have an answer before I try again.  I would really
appreciate suggestions.  
Thanks
Rick


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:39 EDT 1995
Article: 11080 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!caen!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!pcm.ultranet.com!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is this stepper ok for CNC Sherline?
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 1995 07:49:50 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <ginger.135.0011C066@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <3lsibr$lnp@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca> <3m22ep$4oa@crl10.crl.com> <ginger.132.000F654C@pcm.ultranet.com> <dmauch.22.2F85D215@dmauch.seanet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pcm.ultranet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

In article <dmauch.22.2F85D215@dmauch.seanet.com> dmauch@dmauch.seanet.com (Daniel R. Mauch) writes:

>>I have a Sherline lathe with 80 oz-in steppers. 20 ohm coils, I run them at .5 
>>amp. very adequate power for a Sherline. Id guess the 150 oz-in would be to 
>>big, and the 4.5 amp sure makes the controller more money.


>What RPM are you getting from those motors and are they direct drive or do you 
>have a 2-1 reduction. What drivers are you using?

I havent measured RPM, but the tool feed is just right for cutting. I simply 
played with step rate until it was OK.  

I have motors directly coupled to the shaft- no pulleys or gears.

I use INDEXER.LPT software, and a 3 axis stepper board from American 
Scientific Instruments, 103 Morewood Dr, Smithtown NY 11781. 516/361-9499. 

I havent done any real usefull work with this, just making ships to prove it 
works. The real issue is decent software to generate the tool path. I tried 
DANCAM and it was so primitive I gave up.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:41 EDT 1995
Article: 11081 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: 5" grinder endorsement
Date: 9 Apr 1995 06:35:59 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 52
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3m8daf$f8r@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I just thought I'd pass this on to anybody interested.
I don't know how many Welder/Fabricator/Blacksmiths there are here but
this should interest all.
I have found that the most used tool in my shop is in fact a 4-1/2 in
right angle grinder. I've spent days doing finish work with one with any
number of discs or heads on it.
I have one that is now a random orbital and another that is dedicated to a
biscuit joiner. I have 3 more that get switched back and forth between
Grinding wheels , cuttoff wheels , flapper -sanding discs, wire wheels,
Scotch brite discs and sandind pads. I also have a pair of tungsten
carbide burr discs for shaping wood very quickly.

In the past I have always used SKIL grinders , Not that they are
necessarily the best , but they are affordable, at $80 a piece, easily
fixed, and fit my hand real nice. Since I've started using more aluminum I
noticed that the increase in friction has been making my little grinders
prettty hot.

( Now to the jist of my nub...so to speak....)

Porter Cable just started selling a 5 in. grinder that I finally decided
to try. 
Absolutly outstanding !!!
I don't think I've ever been so impressed with a new tool. Not only does
it have considerably more power but is only slightly larger, and has a
wonderful shaft lock button.
I suspect that it is in fact a Metabo (Rolls Royce of powertools) grinder
since it is made in Germany and bears a remarkable similarity to Metabo's
I've used in the past. At $110 it costs about $60 less than a Metabo 5 in.
and seems to be every bit as good.
So, for whatever my opinion is worth, I heartily endorse this little beast
to any in the market for a better hand grinder.

Happy grinding

PS It uses the now standard 5/8-11 shaft thread , so it is compatible with
most current attachments.



@---------------------------------------------------------@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
@---------------------------------------------------------@


From carl620@delphi.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:42 EDT 1995
Article: 11082 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!carl620
From: carl620@delphi.com (Carl Sutton)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
Date: 5 Apr 1995 23:59:39 GMT
Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <9504051945591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1f.delphi.com
X-To: Carl Sutton <carl620@delphi.com>

In article <ginger.128.000B34F9@pcm.ultranet.com>, ginger@pcm.ultranet.com
(Ron Ginger) writes: > In article <3lj49n$5ti@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) writes: > >From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)

> >Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
> >Date: 1 Apr 1995 03:53:11 -0500
> 
> >What are you talking about ? I have never heard of anyone pouring hot
> >metal into a rubber mold. The rubber molds are for the replication of
> >waxes to be used in investment casting. I can't think of any rubber that
> >can withstand the heat of molten tin let alone bronze.
> 
> .......rest deleted.
> 
> Yes, you certainly can cast SOME metal in rubber molds. Mostly pewter and 
> similar metas. Its widely used in the model business- like model boat kit 
> fittings, and in some jewelery and 'craft' products.


   Never heard of this happening in the years i've been in the jewelry
business 


> The rubber is supplied in sheet form, about 1/2" thick. The parts are laid out 
> on it, a parting dust applied, and another sheet of rubber placed on top. The 
> whole sandwich is then vulcanized in a hot press.


      Yes, and then the mold is carefully cut apart so that a negative image
is retained.  The rubber mold is then sealed shut and wax is forced into it.
The wax is then taken out and put in a flask where investment is poured around
it.  The wax is then burnt out in an oven and the plaster filled with the
desired metal.  The plaster is then quenshed and breaks apart, leaving the
desired piece.


> See any jewelery supply catalog for materials.

     See most jewelry making instruction books.

 
> Ron Ginger
> my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger
> 


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Tue Apr 11 23:15:43 EDT 1995
Article: 11083 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk (Charles Lamont)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
Subject: Re: Aluminum finishing on Lathe?
Organization: home
Reply-To: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  14
X-Posting-Host: abdab.demon.co.uk
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 1995 07:13:54 +0000
Message-ID: <290269250wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk


I found it very surprising when I first saw computer disks being made 
(the ancient 10" jobs, for "washing machine" drives).

The aluminium substrate was rough ground and then finish turned, with
a diamond tool.             ^^^^^                 ^^^^^^

The result was **flat**.  The lathe was highly specialised though.

--
Charles Lamont




From hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:45 EDT 1995
Article: 11084 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw2.att.com!nntpa!ssbunews!not-for-mail
From: hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.)
Subject: ???Welding Wire Ends, How Do I Do It???
Message-ID: <D6KnCw.I03@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
Sender: news@ssbunews.ih.att.com (Netnews Administration)
Nntp-Posting-Host: usgp4.ih.att.com
Organization: AT&T
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 17:02:56 GMT
Lines: 11

I'm working on a project duplicating bent-wire clamps. These clamps
are made of several pieces of 1/8 inch wire welded together somehow
to produce a nice clean piece.  The problem is that I can't figure
out how they were done. The welds where the end of one piece butts
up to the side of another ( T ) are solid , splash free, and barely
visible, almost like a spot weld. If I try to duplicate it, the 
welds are splashy, and unsightly. Should I try brazing them, or was
there some sort of unusual welding process used to create the 
originals?

                                      Larry Mayo


From gregben@netcom.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:46 EDT 1995
Article: 11085 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!gregben
From: gregben@netcom.com (Gregory Benjamin)
Subject: Re: Yet another MSC catalog
Message-ID: <gregbenD6pA8z.8Lv@netcom.com>
Organization: Laserlab, Inc.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <1995Apr5.100816.495@flying-disk.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 1995 05:07:47 GMT
Lines: 25
Sender: gregben@netcom22.netcom.com

Alan Frisbie (frisbie@flying-disk.com) wrote:
: I thought the MSC catalog selection (Not to mention their
: service) was "mind-boggling".

: Then MSC added their 250 page Welding catalog.

: Now, I have just received the MCS New Products catalog.
: It contains 500 pages of items (30,000 of them) that do
: not appear in the previous catalogs!

: 200 pages of threaded fasteners!
: 80 pages of tubing and fittings!
: More safety equipment, hand tools, power tools, material
: handling equipment, chemicals & lubricants, etc., etc., etc.

: The best keeps getting better!

I like the McMaster-Carr catalog better, though it has less
tooling, etc.

o-------------------------------------------------------------------o
| Gregory Benjamin       Laserlab, Inc.  precision laser photoplots |
|                        San Diego, CA   on film and glass made in  |
| gregben@netcom.com     619-558-1246    a class 1000 cleanroom.    |
o-------------------------------------------------------------------o


From darylb@bnr.ca Tue Apr 11 23:15:49 EDT 1995
Article: 11086 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!newshost.ndhm.gtegsc.com!gtewd.mtv.gtegsc.com!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.starnet.net!wupost!news.utdallas.edu!corpgate!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bcrkh13.bnr.ca!NewsWatcher!user
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: rotary phase converters
Message-ID: <darylb-050495173026@47.8.3.84>
From: darylb@bnr.ca (Daryl Bender)
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 17:30:26 -0500
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
References: <3lsdf0$1hv@rational.rational.com> <3luk43$plp@oak.oakland.edu>
Distribution: world
Organization: bnr
NNTP-Posting-Host: bcrkm52.bnr.ca
Lines: 38

In article <3luk43$plp@oak.oakland.edu>, amaranth@saturn.acs.oakland.edu
(Paul Amaranth) wrote:

> In article <3lsdf0$1hv@rational.rational.com> davide@rational.com (David Erickson) writes:
>
> snipped excellent info
> 
> BTW, the input phases are not 180 apart, your input power is single
> phase 220 since you're not referencing it to the neutral.  With 2 wires
> you get 1 phase, with 3, you can have 2 or 3.
>
> more snipped excellent info.
> 
He is partly right here in that a house typically receives two 120V inputs
that are 180¡ out of phase.When measured from +120 to -120  you get a
single phase 240. Essentially the same thing you said though.

-------------
                 )
                 )
                 )
                 )  ------------------------------------ +120 (or 120V with
zero phase angle)
                 ) (                 
                 ) (
                 )  ------------------------------------
                 )  ------------------------------------ tied to form
Neutral
                 ) (
                 ) (
-------------   ----------------------------------- -120 (or 120V with 180
phase angle)
         Tranformer
        on Hydro Pole

Daryl
-- 
Working, but not speaking for BNR.


From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:51 EDT 1995
Article: 11087 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!mozo.cc.purdue.edu!wizard.pn.com!sundog.tiac.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG Welders
Date: 5 Apr 1995 23:33:36 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 42
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3lvneg$etq@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <arlenac-0404951955030001@blv-pm0-ip4.halcyon.com>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Baby MIG welders ?

The miller 130 and hobart handler 120  are the only two worth considering.
They both come with a gas package and are both capable of good dependable
service with legit warranties and customer support. Both run about $600
for a package with a 34 cu.ft. tank of 75/25.
I love my handler 120 and I've had it for 2 years. The most important
thing to remember about baby MIGs is to let  them cool down between
passes.
The only people I know of who have managed to burn them up forgot this and
tried to weld 1/4 in. plate continuosly.
Also the longer they run the more amperage they draw, since the coil heats
up and gets less efficient, so if you want to do anything extensive you
should try to give it a clear 20 amp circuit.
 If you need the xtra power that a 220 volt machine would give then jump
up to the 170 amp machines. They run about $1100 but are a much more
serious machine. I once rented a hobart Betamig 170 and was very
impressed.
One of my most memorable welding experiences was welding at 2:30 AM on a
hard deadline project . I blew one of my basement fuses which also took
out half the lights. Instead of reseting the breaker I switched to another
outlet and after 10 min. POP!
I was standing in a pitch dark basement trying to figure out if I even had
a flashlight in the house that worked.
I currently own a Hobart Handler 120, Hobart Betamig 250, and a Miller
EconoTig.
Hope this helps



@---------------------------------------------------------@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
@---------------------------------------------------------@


From janecek@tezcat.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:53 EDT 1995
Article: 11088 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!tezcat.com!NewsWatcher!user
From: janecek@tezcat.com (Jim Janecek)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG Welders
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 1995 18:39:20 -0600
Organization: Personal Effects inc.
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <janecek-0504951839200001@204.248.2.116>
References: <arlenac-0404951955030001@blv-pm0-ip4.halcyon.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: janecek.tezcat.com

In article <arlenac-0404951955030001@blv-pm0-ip4.halcyon.com>,
arlenac@halcyon.com (Arlen) wrote:

> Has anyone had any experience with the small,wire feed MIG welders,either
> the 110 volt units or the 220 volt models. I would be using it to weld
> 3/4" and 1" square tubing and thin wall 1" round tubing.  Any comments
> would be appreciated

Although I don't own one, two friends of mine have HOBART HANDLERS, which
retail for about 500 bucks. (110v)  They are only available at welding
supply houses.

You can use them with both flux core wire and gas with reg. wire.

I'm not aware of any small cheap 220v models, 110v should have sufficient
amperage for what you are doing.

Also- some of the REALLY cheap 110v mig welders (that you buy at the
lumber yard or home center) don't have a trigger to feed the wire, you
have to strike an arc and then it feeds by itself.  Not a particularly
user friendly feature.

Has anybody had any experience with the really CHEAP mig welders from
Builder's Square or Home Depot or any place?

-- 
Jim Janecek
Personal Effects inc.
Chicago IL
voice: 312-733-7531
fax:   312-733-7517


From stltrans@crl.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:55 EDT 1995
Article: 11089 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl.crl.com!not-for-mail
From: stltrans@crl.com (Steven Marcotte)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Aluminum finishing on Lathe?
Date: 5 Apr 1995 18:17:51 -0700
Organization: CRL Network Services      (415) 705-6060  [Login: guest]
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <3lvffv$4h2@crl.crl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: crl.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

I'm trying to turn some automotive parts made out of cast aluminum on a 
Monarch Lathe.

I need a mirror like finish.  

Any good ideas about tooling??

I have seen a fixture designed to do the work that claims to come with a 
diamond cutting bit and a mister to achieve that desired finish.  Anyone 
heard of such a thing and where would you get the bit??

Thanks,
Steve Marcotte



From jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu Tue Apr 11 23:15:57 EDT 1995
Article: 11090 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!news.bu.edu!olivea!rahul.net!a2i!news.clark.net!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.starnet.net!wupost!newsreader.wustl.edu!coconut!jmelson
From: jmelson@artsci.wustl.edu (Jonathan M. Elson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Woodworking with metal tools (Re: Myford ML-7 Lathe info Urgently)
Date: 7 Apr 1995 22:42:55 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <3m4f5f$2qa@newsreader.wustl.edu>
References: <345997399wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk> <3lumsv$2mf@data.interserv.net> <3m1bu5$k6l@newsgate.sps.mot.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jmelson%@coconut.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

I built a CD cabinet from Walnut using a Bridgeport mill.  Each piece of
horizontal wood had 30 CD-case wide grooves cut in the top and bottom
(except the top and bottom piece, grooved only on one side).  The vertical
pieces had mortises for the horizontals.  The mortises were .002 narrower
than the horizontals, for an interference fit.  The whole thing was cut to
+/- .005" or better!  It was a perfectionist's delight.  The cutting tool
was a carbide router bit run at 2000 RPM (the fastest my 3-phase machine
likes to run on 1-phase power).  I have also done some minor woodwork
on my lathe.  The only caution is that wood likes to be worked at higher
speeds than metal, and so be careful about workholding.  Also it may be
necessary to cover the ways with rags to keep sawdust from accumulating.
It will be necessary to thoroughly clean the ways after the job is done.



From frisbie@flying-disk.com Tue Apr 11 23:15:59 EDT 1995
Article: 11091 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!sparky!kwiudl.kwi.com!netcomsv!uucp3.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Yet another MSC catalog
Message-ID: <1995Apr5.100816.495@flying-disk.com>
Date: 5 Apr 95 10:08:16 PST
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 20

I thought the MSC catalog selection (Not to mention their
service) was "mind-boggling".

Then MSC added their 250 page Welding catalog.

Now, I have just received the MCS New Products catalog.
It contains 500 pages of items (30,000 of them) that do
not appear in the previous catalogs!

200 pages of threaded fasteners!
80 pages of tubing and fittings!
More safety equipment, hand tools, power tools, material
handling equipment, chemicals & lubricants, etc., etc., etc.

The best keeps getting better!

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From mdemetz706@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:01 EDT 1995
Article: 11092 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!tcsi.tcs.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: mdemetz706@aol.com (MDemetz706)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Still looking for more Small Lathe Owners!
Date: 9 Apr 1995 10:45:48 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 2
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3m8rus$go0@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <jbezdek-2803951038110001@au-souk.me.utexas.edu>
Reply-To: mdemetz706@aol.com (MDemetz706)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I sold my Taig and bought a Sherline because it had more accessories. Aslo
more distributers and compatibility with their mill.


From WWEBSTER@BNR.CA Tue Apr 11 23:16:02 EDT 1995
Article: 11093 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!bnr.co.uk!corpgate!bcarh189.bnr.ca!bcarh8ab.bnr.ca!NewsWatcher!user
From: WWEBSTER@BNR.CA (Bill Webster)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tool post grinder
Date: Sun, 09 Apr 1995 10:53:06 -0500
Organization: Bell Northern Research
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <WWEBSTER-0904951053060001@47.220.3.174>
References: <3m1r91$squ@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 47.220.3.174

In article <3m1r91$squ@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, rbuxton1@aol.com (RBuxton1)
wrote:

 I machined the necessary diameter
> plus a couple of thousandths and set up the tool post grinder.  I am
> unable to get a smooth finish.  My results appear to be many small flats
> rather than a ground surface. 
> Rick

Sounds like the work piece wasn't centered, or, wasn't supported in the
tail stock.  You might try dressing the wheel, but that doesn't really
sound like it's the problem source.

Just my $02 worth.

regards.


From eds689@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:06 EDT 1995
Article: 11094 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ysu.edu!constellation!convex!insosf1.infonet.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.duke.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: eds689@aol.com (EDS689)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is this stepper ok for CNC Sherline?
Date: 5 Apr 1995 23:23:50 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 7
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3lvms6$en5@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3lsibr$lnp@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>
Reply-To: eds689@aol.com (EDS689)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

That's more than enough stepper for a Sherline!!  AMSI is Smithtown, NY
makes both Chopper Drives and Microstepping Drives, and they are
affordable($175).  They put out only 2.5 amps/phase, but they claim that
because their drive is current controlled, you can drive larger motors
with good results.  They are @ 516-361-9499.

Eric Schwartz EDS689@aol.com


From billg63475@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:09 EDT 1995
Article: 11095 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is this stepper ok for CNC Sherline?
Date: 8 Apr 1995 02:15:11 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 6
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3m59lf$pc2@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <dmauch.22.2F85D215@dmauch.seanet.com>
Reply-To: billg63475@aol.com (BILLG63475)

I also use 80 ozin motors on a sherline motors are 3.8 amp / phase and I
run them on 6 amp bipolar choppers set at 2 amps. I can run as fast a 6500
pps, but it is pretty hard on the mill! I normally run at 3500 pps max
rapid rate.

Bill


From lewcobb@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca Tue Apr 11 23:16:12 EDT 1995
Article: 11096 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!news.unb.ca!jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca!lewcobb
From: lewcobb@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Lewis Cobb External)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Is this stepper ok for CNC Sherline?
Date: 4 Apr 1995 22:48:27 GMT
Organization: University of New Brunswick, Fredericton, NB, Canada
Lines: 26
Message-ID: <3lsibr$lnp@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: jupiter-alt3.unb.ca
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Hi and thanks for reading this - I have a chance to buy a few stepper 
motors and am wondering if they would be suitable for a Sherline lathe 
CNC conversion project.  I don't own either at the moment but I expect 
that I will get a Sherline lathe before the end of the year and I'd want 
to CNC control it.

The motors are Slo-Syn (Superior Electric ) Model M063-FD09
The specs say 2.25V 4.6 A per phase and 200 steps/rev 150 oz-in torque

I am sure the torque is enough but not having a Sherline I am not sure if
they are too heavy for mounting on the machine - the mechanical specs are
as follows:

NEMA 23 Frame - 2 3/4 pounds weight, 2.22" inch square flange, and the motor
housing is 4 inches long by 2.625" diameter I think.

As well, if this is suitable, the 4.6A per phase certainly scraps the
motor driver board that I have seen the PCB board for on the Ualberta 
ftp site - it's only 1 amp per phase.  Is there a circuit or some 
guidelines around anywhere where I might get a start on a circuit for 
this motor?  I will be using Dancam once the whole mess is built...

Thanks very much for any help people can provide.

Lewis
lewcobb@unb.ca


From copsmith@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:14 EDT 1995
Article: 11097 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: copsmith@aol.com (Copsmith)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Wanted: Copper Sheets
Date: 9 Apr 1995 14:00:19 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 3
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3m97bj$jiq@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <8A6B55C.0261000F7C.uuout@corpsoft.com>
Reply-To: copsmith@aol.com (Copsmith)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

You can get 20 or 24 oz copper at sheet metal shops. They will probably
have some in their scrap bin. If it's not thick enough, you can sweat two
pieces together. If it is just decorative, this will work fine. 


From ayang@menger.eecs.stevens-tech.edu Tue Apr 11 23:16:15 EDT 1995
Article: 11098 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!stevens-tech.edu!news
From: Albert Yang <ayang@menger.eecs.stevens-tech.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tungsten
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 1995 01:31:33 -0400 (EDT)
Organization: Stevens Institute of Technology
Lines: 7
Message-ID: <Pine.SUN.3.90.950409013040.15447A-100000@menger.eecs.stevens-tech.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: menger.eecs.stevens-tech.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Does anybody know where I can get some tungsten?  I live around NYC and 
New Jersey.


Albert.

ayang@menger.eecs.stevens-tech.edu


From ernieleim@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:16 EDT 1995
Article: 11099 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: chop saw/band saw
Date: 4 Apr 1995 02:23:48 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 24
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3lqolk$q6n@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3lpavf$2508@nntp2.u.washington.edu>
Reply-To: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)

Cutoff bandsaw funny angle?

Well the blade stays in the same orientation but the angle is fine. All
the Encos come with an extra table plate you can attach to get a real
table for vertical work , but I found it wasn't necessary and was a real
pain in the ass to attach / detach.
The One limiting factor on these saws is that you are stuck with a 1/2 in.
wide blade.
The blade guides just aren't made to be adjusted for other widths.
You get what you pay for and how much can you really expect for $175.


@---------------------------------------------------------@
                    Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

                  Stagesmith Productions                                  
                                          
                 Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
               
*    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
                        Renton, WA                                        
   
*"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
@---------------------------------------------------------@


From gwhite@tiac.net Tue Apr 11 23:16:18 EDT 1995
Article: 11100 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!purdue!mozo.cc.purdue.edu!wizard.pn.com!dns.crocker.com!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!gwhite
From: gwhite@tiac.net (Doug White)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: chop saw/band saw
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 95 22:27:09 GMT
Organization: The Internet Access Company
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <3lsh41$8aq@sundog.tiac.net>
References: <3lpavf$2508@nntp2.u.washington.edu> <3lqolk$q6n@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3ls1cc$3mh5@nntp2.u.washington.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: gwhite.tiac.net
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3

In article <3ls1cc$3mh5@nntp2.u.washington.edu>,
   darkstar@u.washington.edu (Alden  Hackmann) wrote:
>ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) writes:
>
>>The One limiting factor on these saws is that you are stuck with a 1/2 
in.
>>wide blade.
>>The blade guides just aren't made to be adjusted for other widths.
>>You get what you pay for and how much can you really expect for $175.
>
>OK, so what's the next step up?  I've looked in vain in catalogs, etc - 
>there's a huge hole between the $175 piece-o-junk and the next saw, 
which 
>is usually $1000+.  I want to be able to use a 1/4" blade sometimes, but 
>can't justify spending that much more to be able to.  

I recently saw an ad for one that looked like it had a MUCH beefier base 
than the standard one.  It wasn't any more expensive than the higher 
prices I've seen for the El Cheapo model everyone is using.  
Unfortunately, I can't remember where I saw the ad.  I figured I'd wait 
until it had been out a while, and then check for a hands-on review here. 
I get about 20 catalogs a month, and I'm getting overwhelmed.  It may 
just be the same model with a better base, because that is the most 
common complaint about these things after the motor.  If I see the ad 
again, I'll post.

Doug White




From hayesp@delphi.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:20 EDT 1995
Article: 11101 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!willis.cis.uab.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: chatter on cut off tools
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 95 12:32:02 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <Rix+YAy.hayesp@delphi.com>
References: <3john4$rhs@utopia.pinsight.com> <3jp12e$rdq@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <3jpr3n$e8r@news.rain.org> <Rgw5-aq.hayesp@delphi.com> <3lddik$1bbe@tequesta.gate.net> <3lelng$i9o@news1.svc>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1g.delphi.com
X-To: Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com>

Mike Rehmus <mrehmus@grayfax.com> writes:
 
>
>The one thing I learned real fast, though, is to put the tool just
>slightly below center.  When you get chatter in one of these baby's,
>you really get chatter.  Unfortunately, chatter destroys carbide.
 
Putting your tool below center helps with the chatter, and on aluminum it is
effective, but in steel , this tends to break off the corners of the carbide
too as you pass the centerline (Y Dimension) of the workpiece. You need to be
very close to center. A
"trick" method to achieve this is to place a 6" scale between
the outer diameter of your workpiece and the cutting edge of the tool. Bring
your tool against the scal with just anough pressure to hold the scal in place.
Is the scale vertical? adjust your Tol Height until it is. You can hit the
Centerline with amazing
accuracy this way, assuming that your cross-slide is not "Hollowed Out" from
wear. Try it! It works great for all tools!.


From arlenac@halcyon.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:20 EDT 1995
Article: 11102 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!nwnexus!news.halcyon.com!blv-pm0-ip4.halcyon.com!user
From: arlenac@halcyon.com (Arlen)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: MIG Welders
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 1995 19:55:03 -0800
Organization: Home
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <arlenac-0404951955030001@blv-pm0-ip4.halcyon.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: blv-pm0-ip4.halcyon.com

Has anyone had any experience with the small,wire feed MIG welders,either
the 110 volt units or the 220 volt models. I would be using it to weld
3/4" and 1" square tubing and thin wall 1" round tubing.  Any comments
would be appreciated


From hayesp@delphi.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:22 EDT 1995
Article: 11103 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!Germany.EU.net!EU.net!uunet!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is L-163 Aluminum?
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 95 12:48:05 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <ZAzeIi9.hayesp@delphi.com>
References: <3l79kg$l2l@tadpole.fc.hp.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1g.delphi.com
X-To: Chris Helt <chris@fc.hp.com>

Chris Helt <chris@fc.hp.com> writes:
 
>English race car.  The aluminum is marked "L_163" and "RDUR_PECHINEY".  
>The markings are very faint and smeared, so give the name some latitude
>in my spelling.  The L_163 rings a bell as a european standard, but of 
>course I can not find any reference to it. The following information 
>or pointers as to where I might find it is appreciated.
>
>
>1) Is there a direct cross to a US alloy (ie 5052, 2024, 6061, etc)?
 
I have a Reynolds Aluminum Textbook that lists the following designations:
us designation		French		brittish	German
2024			u-u4g		H14		3.1355
				ALCuMg0.5
 
5052			A-G1		N4		3.3535
							AIMg3
 
6061			A-SG		H20		3.2315
							AIMgSi1
 
As for your l_163 designation I can find nothing, but this book was written in
1965, so there may be some newer materials/designations out there. If there are
other designations I can help you with, E-Mail me, and I will look them up.


From hayesp@delphi.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:25 EDT 1995
Article: 11104 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum Finishing and Polishing Frustrating as ---
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 95 12:58:21 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <ZA0cYU9.hayesp@delphi.com>
References: <brian_crowe-0104952302030001@dallas-1-9.i-link.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1g.delphi.com
X-To: Brian Crowe <brian_crowe@i-link.net>

Brian Crowe <brian_crowe@i-link.net> writes:
 
>As I polish and polish my aluminum, I have some real frustrations.  I want
>a mirror finish that I will later anodize clear.  I start out with 5" 220
>grit discs on a random orbit sander turning at 1700 RPM.  Go to 320, 400,
 
I was amazed at the success of using Water Soulable Cutting Oil (Straight,
without water added) on a Scotch-Brite pad for polishing in the lathe. Perhaps
you could adapt this method to your sander. It comes out like a Mirrir!
 
(mirror)
Good Luck!


From neidorff@uicc.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:26 EDT 1995
Article: 11105 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!mv!chillon!neidorff
From: neidorff@uicc.com (Bob Neidorff)
Subject: NH Auction Report
Message-ID: <D6Kp0o.AnK@uicc.com>
Originator: neidorff@makore.uicc.com
Sender: news@uicc.com (USENET News System)
Nntp-Posting-Host: makore.uicc.com
Organization: Unitrode Integrated Circuits Corp., Merrimack, NH
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 17:38:47 GMT
Lines: 77



New Hampshire Auction Report

I attended a fairly large machine shop auction in Manchester, NH.
The auction was run by a California firm Great American.  Very
unfriendly people.  I can think of many more pleasant auctions,
with better terms, better organization, more help from the staff,
and also perhaps...  

They sold equipment from Leighton Machine Company.  This was a 
"secured party sale", which means something like the bank was
liquidating assets to repay a debt.  Leighton was making 
"dials and cylinders for the knitting industry."  The facility 
had some pre-1940 large tools as well as some more modern CNC 
equipment.  Prices varied wildly.  I felt that I did OK.  I 
bought an indexing head for $20, miscellaneous lathe tools
for $5 (including a beautiful Jacobs No. 20N chuck), a lifetime
selection of dowel pins, taper pins, helicoil inserts, o-rings,
springs, bushings, etc in three beautiful cabinets for $20, a 
worn pedistal grinder for $15, and oxy-acetylene torches for $120, 
all plus 10% auctioneer's premium.

Here's a sampling of larger tool prices, before 10% auctioneer's 
premium (no sales tax in NH).  When you see a range, there was 
more than one and prices varied with people's mood and quality.

Never underestimate mood in these auctions.  Some great lots 
sleep, while others go to the sky when someone really needs it.
There was one incident where two people were bidding against
eachother for a hugh pile.  They bid the pile to $1600.  It
wound up that one person wanted the gears in the pile, while
the other wanted the carbide slitting saws.  Had they gotten
together or communicated better, they would have saved lots of
money.  After this lot sold, many more IDENTICAL gear lots went
unsold.  Seems that this one bidder had enough gears.  :-(


Bridgeport Series 1 CNC				$1900-$2500
Bridgeport Series 1				$1700-$2300
Thompson Horizontal Grinder			$1500
Delta Double Drill Press			$150-$250
DoAll MC1600 Bandsaw w/welder			$1000
20x48 18" Univ Horiz Boring Machine		$1375
Southbend 14" Lathe w/Turret & Compound		$1875
Electric Chain Hoist				$100-$150
Milwaukee Horiz Mill				$400
Darex Tool Sharpener (two holders)		$275
Pedestal Grinders				$15-$70
Norton Tool Grinder				$275
Black Diamond Drill Sharpener (one holder)	$300
Delta Tool Room Turret Lathe			$400	!
Hardinge Lathe					$2750-$5000
Meuser 3' Lathe					$2500
Warner Swasy No. 1A Lathe			$350
Vernier Calipers 30" to 60"			$15-$160
Black Granite Surface Plate 3'x4'x4"		$100
Moes Slot Miller				$1000
Superior/Boston Gear Cutter			$25-$1000
Bullard Vertical Turret Lathe			$500
Blanchard 42" Diameter Grinder			$15,000	!!!
L-TEC PCM Plasma Welder				$200	!
Linde UCC 305 Welder				$250
Lincoln TM-300 Arc Welder			$150
Miller CP-300 MIG Welder			$900
Miller Synchrowave 350 Welder			$1500
Dewalt 10" Radial Arm Saw			$140
American 36" Wood Bandsaw			$50	!!!
Heavy Duty 30"x38" 12" Table Saw		$150
Lot: 12" Brake, 9" Brake & Arbor Press		$175
Macintosh Plus					$175	:-)
DG Nova 4 Based Paper Tape Programmer		$125	:-)

-- 
Bob Neidorff; Unitrode I. C. Corp.  |  Internet: neidorff@uicc.com
7 Continental Blvd.                 |  Voice   : (US) 603-429-8541
Merrimack, NH  03054-0399 USA       |  FAX     : (US) 603-424-3460


From amaranth@saturn.acs.oakland.edu Tue Apr 11 23:16:28 EDT 1995
Article: 11106 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!uwm.edu!news.moneng.mei.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!ulowell.uml.edu!vtc.tacom.army.mil!news1.oakland.edu!saturn.acs.oakland.edu!amaranth
From: amaranth@saturn.acs.oakland.edu (Paul Amaranth)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum finishing on Lathe?
Date: 6 Apr 1995 13:10:10 GMT
Organization: Oakland University, Rochester, Michigan, U.S.A.
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3m0p7i$hrr@oak.oakland.edu>
References: <3lvffv$4h2@crl.crl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: saturn.acs.oakland.edu

In article <3lvffv$4h2@crl.crl.com> stltrans@crl.com (Steven Marcotte) writes:
>I'm trying to turn some automotive parts made out of cast aluminum on a 
>Monarch Lathe.
>
>I need a mirror like finish.  
>
>Any good ideas about tooling??
>

The latest issue of Strictly IC (which has a picture of a gorgeous 
Bentley BR2 in stainless steel on the cover) has an article on
finishing metal.  A summary of the article:  a lot of work.

If there's enough interest, I'll post a summary of the major points.

-- 
Paul Amaranth  Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
               (e-mail)     amaranth@oakland.edu    [Rochester, Michigan  USA]
   Mosaic page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html 


From v040601@denab.stortek.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:29 EDT 1995
Article: 11107 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!stortek!denab.stortek.com!v040601
From: v040601@denab.stortek.com (Mark McDade (303) 673-6841)
Subject: Mice/Positioning
Message-ID: <D6qAK8.Bs5@stortek.com>
Sender: news@stortek.com
Organization: StorageTek - TFTH
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 1995 18:12:08 GMT
Lines: 11

Hi People -

Anybody thought about the fact that computer mice are common, have
available software and resolve to 0.005 inches?  The resolution
might be increased with correct gearing and the result used as a
cheap feedback system for DIY CNC.

Mark McDade

mark_mcdade@stortek.com



From mike.demetz@betacon.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:30 EDT 1995
Article: 11108 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!willis.cis.uab.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!chicagokent.kentlaw.edu!iitmax.acc.iit.edu!uchinews!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.ip.net!global.gc.net!betacon!mike.demetz
From: mike.demetz@betacon.com (Mike Demetz)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is this stepper ok for CNC Sherline?
Date: Sat,  8 Apr 1995 02:15:31 GMT
Message-ID: <950407231714466@betacon.com>
Organization: Beta Connection! Elkhart, IN
Distribution: world
References: <3lsibr$lnp@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca>
Lines: 6         

My kit has 55 oz-in motors with an 80 oz-in on the Z axis. They are
5v@1a
will the 80 oz is 6V. He (Digital Microsystems) is now using 125 Oz-in
on Z and lathe Y. The latest Dancam shareware includes a driver board
layout and he has more in his full package. For 1A or less you can use
Sprauge ULN ICs.


From dholly@psl.wisc.edu Tue Apr 11 23:16:32 EDT 1995
Article: 11109 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!psl.wisc.edu!DHOLLY
From: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brass pipe soldering
Date: 6 Apr 1995 17:14:26 GMT
Organization: University of Wisconsin - Physical Science Lab
Lines: 27
Message-ID: <3m17hi$191q@news.doit.wisc.edu>
References: <1995Apr4.125131.3374@news.uit.no>,<D6MCp3.41o@cdsmail.cdc.com>
Reply-To: dholly@psl.wisc.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: pslc.psl.wisc.edu

In article <D6MCp3.41o@cdsmail.cdc.com>, jaf@a2.cim.cdc.com (James Foster x2912) writes:
>In article <1995Apr4.125131.3374@news.uit.no>, stigo@stud.cs.uit.no (Stig Opdoehl) writes:
[...]>
>|> On top of this double
>|> pipe assembly a third pipe must be soldered vertically to the top pipe 9barrel). how can
>|> this third pipe de soldered on without the heat un soldering the first pipe assembly
>|> (barrel/body)? 
>
>Put wet cloth strips along the body seam. Use a relatively hot flame to get the 
>area up to soldering temperature quickly before too much heat spreads to the body.
>Direct most of the flame at the base of the vertical tube. As soon as you're done
>use a spray water bottle to cool the whole thing.  IMHO. YMMV.
>

Or you could use two solders with a reasonable difference in their melting
temperatures.

Seems to me I was always taught that it's best to let soldered joints cool
slowly, as the strength of the solder increases significantly over a period
of seconds or more after it solidifies. (On the other hand, I'm never
patient enough to do this when I'm sweating water pipes, and I've never had
a problem...)

                      ...when I sit down to write
Don Holly             my intentions are always blameless however deplorable
                      the ultimate effect of the act may turn out to be.
                                           --Joseph Conrad


From shardy@spider.lloyd.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:33 EDT 1995
Article: 11110 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!willis.cis.uab.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!sac-co.k12.ca.us!lloyd.com!news
From: scott hardy <shardy@spider.lloyd.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Bladesmiths and knifemakers
Date: 10 Apr 1995 07:14:55 GMT
Organization: Lloyd Internetworking
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <3maltf$slo@spider.lloyd.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial03.lloyd.com

Do we have many blade smiths and knife makers out here??

If so, please email me as I am collecting address for later possible
mailing list.

S. Hardy
Bladesmith (ABS)
Photographer
computer jock



From jjohnson@oavax.csuchico.edu Tue Apr 11 23:16:34 EDT 1995
Article: 11111 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!usenet
From: jjohnson@oavax.csuchico.edu (JOHN JOHNSON)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Tender Tank Questions
Date: 10 Apr 1995 15:52:50 GMT
Organization: California State University, Chico
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <3mbk8i$5pr@charnel.ecst.CSUChico.EDU>
Reply-To: jjohnson@oavax.csuchico.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: oavax.csuchico.edu

I have some questions about the fabrication of the tender water tank on my live
steam locomotive.  I have thought about making it out of brass,  instead of
steel as it is on the prototype.  I think that brass would be easy to solder,
keep water tight, and not have the potential rust problem.   The problem that I
have now is how do I re-engineer the tank to work in scale.

First let me describe the project.  It is a 7 1/2 gauge model of  Western
Maryland Railway #6, a three truck Shay.  The water tank will measure 25.5
long, 15.6 wide, and 7 high on the model.  It rides above the third truck.  I
plan to make a seat cushion to set on the flat top of the water tank for me to
ride the locomotive.  

The prototype used 3/16 and 1/4 steel plate and 3/8 thick 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 angle
iron to fabricate the tank.  I would think that if I just scaled down these
thickness, that they would be too thin to hold my weight (165 lbs.) and could
easily dent.  How does one go about re-engineering such a project to work at
scale?  Would say 1/6 brass plate be strong enough, or should I go thicker? 
There is a series of internal baffles which I could make thicker to carry more
weight.  The prototype is riveted together.  I thought I could use escunsion
pins to represent the rivets and solder the entire tank together.  

I would be very interested in any help those in rec.crafts.metalworking would
be able to offer on these questions.  

Thank you.

John D.L. Johnson
California State University, Chico
jjohnson@pspo.csuchico.edu



From af815@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Tue Apr 11 23:16:35 EDT 1995
Article: 11112 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!bnr.co.uk!corpgate!bcarh189.bnr.ca!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af815
From: af815@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John Darlington)
Subject: Re: Myford ML-7 Lathe info Urgently Needed
Message-ID: <D6rs9M.3G0@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: af815@freenet3.carleton.ca (John Darlington)
Reply-To: af815@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John Darlington)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
References: <393142480wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk> <3m1bu5$k6l@newsgate.sps.mot.com>  <345997399wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk> <3lumsv$2mf@data.interserv.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 1995 13:32:09 GMT
Lines: 22

In a previous posting, Charles Lamont (Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk) writes:
> The point I was trying to make was that one would be ill advised to buy 
> a metalworking lathe if all one wants to do is woodwork.  This seemed, 
> from his original post, to be what John Darlington was proposing to do.
> -- 
> Charles Lamont

Charles,

	You are right. That is exactly what I proposed to do. I have picked up
the UNIMAT DB-200 to see if I can do what I want to do (mainly turn some wood
pens & pencils, which I may not be able to do because of the clearance between
centers, unless I want to turn each half separately, then I will take it back
& try to sell it to a metalworker/modelmaker).

Thanks to all who responded to my originall post, especially those who took the
time to respond directly by e-mail. You were all most generous with your time
& responses.

Regards,
JD



From dynalec@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:36 EDT 1995
Article: 11113 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: dynalec@aol.com (DYNALEC)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: CNC slant bed vs CNC swiss type lathe
Date: 10 Apr 1995 14:42:05 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 12
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3mbu5t$8v2@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: dynalec@aol.com (DYNALEC)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

We are a small manufacturing company in the process of updating our
machine shop. We are looking for a lathe that is easily programmable, has
a quick set up time and is good for runs between 20 to 5,000 pieces. We
have looked at Cinncinnati Micron, Bridgeport, Minyou,Hardinge, Hitachi
Seiki,Star,Traube and Citizen. One trouble were having is deciding if a
slant bed lathe with a sub-spindle can work on both ends of a part with
the same versatility as a swiss style lathe. It is our understanding that
excluding chucking applications a swiss style lathe is much more efficient
than a slant bed lathe given the same part in the same stock size. Is this
correct? Which machine has a longer set up time? Any advice received would
be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Greg C


From ixthos@access2.digex.net Tue Apr 11 23:16:37 EDT 1995
Article: 11114 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news1.digex.net!news3.digex.net!digex.net!not-for-mail
From: ixthos@access2.digex.net (Ixthos)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB a ROTARY TABLE...
Date: 10 Apr 1995 18:09:48 -0400
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Lines: 10
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <3mcabc$rg4@access2.digex.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: access2.digex.net


   Hi;

 I need a rotary table 6 - 8 inches vertcal/horizontal mount. Anybody 
have an extra???

 Thanks;

 C.W.



From carla2@teleport.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:39 EDT 1995
Article: 11115 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!psgrain!news.teleport.com!news.teleport.com!not-for-mail
From: carla2@teleport.com (Carla Fong)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG Welders
Date: 6 Apr 1995 11:54:55 -0700
Organization: Teleport - Portland's Public Access (503) 220-1016
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <3m1ddv$86s@kelly.teleport.com>
References: <arlenac-0404951955030001@blv-pm0-ip4.halcyon.com> <D6KzHL.JB2@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: kelly.teleport.com


>>Has anyone had any experience with the small,wire feed MIG welders,either
>>the 110 volt units or the 220 volt models. I would be using it to weld
>>3/4" and 1" square tubing and thin wall 1" round tubing.  Any comments
>>would be appreciated

I got one of the little Lincoln wirefeed machines that costco had for 
about $275 to supplement my shop welder. It's a flux core unit that works 
fine on sheet metal to about 3/16" in one pass, and will do acceptable 
work with multi passes on thicker material.

If this is going to be your only wirefeed machine, opt for the most 
amperage you can, and get the gas feed attachment so you can do real gas 
shielded welding. If you are mainly interested in portability, then the 
flux core/110 volt is a super deal.

BTW, the "hood" that comes with these machines is a joke, so get a good 
one and salvage the filter out of the one they give you in the kit. Throw 
the rest of it away...
-- 
carla2@teleport.COM          God has angels to help with her work, 
                             The devil has politicians


From mdelevie@wam.umd.edu Tue Apr 11 23:16:40 EDT 1995
Article: 11116 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!mdelevie
From: mdelevie@wam.umd.edu (Mark Y. deLevie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mo' Welder Advice
Date: 9 Apr 1995 11:58:28 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland College Park
Lines: 7
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3m8i54$ov4@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu>
References: <3m50r3$g60@news.icaen.uiowa.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rac2.wam.umd.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0]

Matt Bushore (mbushore@icaen.uiowa.edu) wrote:
: The problem being is that the Tig will be more expensive, and may require more
: training to teach others how to use it effectively.  The Mig seems to be more
: of a point and shoot item.

Isn't that the whole reason for the school's sponsorship / funding?  They're
*supposed* to have to learn things!  Go with the Tig, in my opinion.


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Apr 11 23:16:41 EDT 1995
Article: 11117 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anodzing info needed. Pleae!
Message-ID: <1995Apr10.113018.10019@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 10 Apr 95 11:30:18 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <3m196s$j1p@umcc.umcc.umich.edu>
Distribution: usa,world
Organization: University of Wyoming
Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
Lines: 14


In article <3m196s$j1p@umcc.umcc.umich.edu>, soko@umcc.umcc.umich.edu (Philip Sokolowski) writes:
|>There have been some interesting discussions on rec.sports.paintball lately
|>about anodizing.  It has been teh fad recently to get your gun "custom
|>colored" and it is expensive around here.  Now, as I understand, it is not
|>that difficult, noe expensive, so if anyone can send me some info on what
|>you need, and how to go about the process, please let me know!  I especially
|>need info on what metals can and can not be anodized, how to strip
|>anodizing, and what is required/where to purchase it.

A start would be to check out our FAQ.  It can be obtained at
plains.uwyo.edu, in the METAL directory.  Try part 5, question 29.

Jim


From ian@sywell.demon.co.uk Tue Apr 11 23:16:42 EDT 1995
Article: 11118 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ian@sywell.demon.co.uk (Ian Harris)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!sywell.demon.co.uk!ian
Subject: Re: What is L-163 Aluminum?
References: <3l79kg$l2l@tadpole.fc.hp.com> <ZAzeIi9.hayesp@delphi.com>
Organization: Who knows?
Reply-To: ian@sywell.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  28
X-Posting-Host: sywell.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 1995 18:00:14 +0000
Message-ID: <744512719wnr@sywell.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk

In article: <ZAzeIi9.hayesp@delphi.com>  PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com> writes:

> >English race car.  The aluminum is marked "L_163" and "RDUR_PECHINEY".  
> >The markings are very faint and smeared, so give the name some latitude
> >in my spelling.  The L_163 rings a bell as a european standard, but of 
> >course I can not find any reference to it. The following information 
> >or pointers as to where I might find it is appreciated.
> 

Sorry, I havn't got your orriginal posting and the "English race car." part 
is extremely intriuging being into British motorsport myself.

Anyway; L_163 -> have you tried looking for LM63?  All the aluminium 
designations that I am familiar with begin with LM ie LM25 etc but LM63 does 
not appear on my list which is by no means complete.  I have asked my father
who thinks it may be a designation for sheet forming metal - bodyshell?
Anyway, another avenue to search??
 
Hope this is of some help.

 _________________________________________________________ \\\\\  ///// __ 
| Ian Harris - ian@sywell.demon.co.uk                      <| . >< . |>   | 
|    "it takes forty men with their feet on the             \__/  \__/    |
|     ground to keep one man with his head in the air."         oo        |
| Phone: (01604) 642662                                       \____/      |
|_Snail: 16, Stonelea Road, Sywell, Northampton. NN6 0AZ. England_________|




From hinrichs@ils.nwu.edu Tue Apr 11 23:16:43 EDT 1995
Article: 11119 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!movietone.ils.nwu.edu!hinrichs.ils.nwu.edu!user
From: hinrichs@ils.nwu.edu (Tom Hinrichs)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Group in Skokie
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 01:42:35 -0500
Organization: Institute for the Learning Sciences
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <hinrichs-1104950142350001@hinrichs.ils.nwu.edu>
References: <1995Apr5.173102.11369@ultb.isc.rit.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hinrichs.ils.nwu.edu

In article <1995Apr5.173102.11369@ultb.isc.rit.edu>,
mds5597@vaxb.isc.rit.edu wrote:

>         Hello there.  I was wondering if there is a blacksmith or knife/sword
> making group in the Skokie, IL area.  I am moving there in the summer to study
> at a Rabbinical school.

If you hear of one, please let me know.  I live in Roger's Park right next
to Skokie and would be very interested learning more about blacksmithing.

- Tom

P.S.  I went to the 'Eigenfest' last summer in Amana Iowa & highly recommend it.
It's a free festival sponsored by ABANA and had a couple of dozen blacksmiths
demonstrating everything from horseshoe making to knife making.  And if
you've never seen an 'anvil shoot', that alone is worth the trip!


From bo1115@delphi.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:44 EDT 1995
Article: 11120 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: Bruce Olson <bo1115@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ???Welding Wire Ends, How Do I Do It???
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 95 11:37:54 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <xw79Ao6.bo1115@delphi.com>
References: <D6KnCw.I03@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1e.delphi.com
X-To: -Mayo,H.H. <hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com>

-Mayo,H.H. <hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com> writes:
 
>I'm working on a project duplicating bent-wire clamps. These clamps
>are made of several pieces of 1/8 inch wire welded together somehow
>to produce a nice clean piece.  The problem is that I can't figure
>out how they were done. The welds where the end of one piece butts
 
I have used a butt welder for bandsaw blades to weld 1/8 wire (steel) into
circles.  This worked very well and I was able to set the controls to
eliminate most of the flash with a small amount of swelling at the joint
where the metal ends met.  This machine was ideal in that it held the
ends in perfect alignment and had the required amperage settings.


From uety03@ux7.hrz.uni-dortmund.de Tue Apr 11 23:16:46 EDT 1995
Article: 11121 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!Germany.EU.net!Dortmund.Germany.EU.net!Uni-Dortmund.DE!ux7!uety03
From: uety03@ux7.hrz.uni-dortmund.de (ponner)
Newsgroups: rec.boats,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boatbuilding with exotic metals (and associated techniques)
Followup-To: rec.boats,rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 6 Apr 1995 15:27:05 GMT
Organization: HRZ, University of Dortmund, Germany
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <3m1189$pp5@nx2.hrz.uni-dortmund.de>
References: <3lpvk4$cep@news.alaska.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ux7.hrz.uni-dortmund.de
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.boats:68798 rec.crafts.metalworking:11121


: Anybody know how to build a sailboat hull that would need essentially
: no maintenance for 1,000 years? :-)
: I am interested in obtaining information on boatbuilding with exotic
: metals (and associated techniques) such as titanium.
: Anybody have any interesting pointers or thoughts?
: Aaron

I remember a german book "Korrosion auf Yachten" where a test somewhere
in south america was reported. They compared various metals in their 
underwater performance; best was "monel" alloy (60% nickel, 40% copper
or so). Needed *no* maintenance for years! (Don't expect a test over 
the period you mention :-)). Better than having me looking up the exact
source will be that some of you english-speaking newsreaders search for
that test. Post everything here if you're successful or not. Hope my hints 
help.

-Ulrich Sikkema using his boss' account 


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Tue Apr 11 23:16:48 EDT 1995
Article: 11122 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!waldorf.csc.calpoly.edu!zimmer!news
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Subject: Discount mail order bearings source?
Message-ID: <D6u5Mt.F93@CSUFresno.EDU>
Sender: Greg Lewis
Nntp-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu
Organization: CSU Fresno
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 1995 20:16:05 GMT
Lines: 15


As the header says, does anyone have a discount mail order bearings
source for standard size (not miniature... I know about Small Parts
Inc.) bearings. I tried to get a catalog from Bailey Sales, but they
won't send me one (:-(

I can pay retail right here in town, so discount is a part of the
request. THANKS!


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing


From jmg@dorsai.org Tue Apr 11 23:16:49 EDT 1995
Article: 11123 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org!news
From: jmg@dorsai.org (Jon Gellman)
Subject: Re: Brass pipe soldering
Message-ID: <D6uw85.44D@dorsai.org>
Sender: news@dorsai.org (Keeper of the News)
Organization: The Dorsai Embassy - New York
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #2.1
References: <9504092107591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 04:55:38 GMT
Lines: 19


>> In article <1995Apr4.125131.3374@news.uit.no>, stigo@stud.cs.uit.no (Stig
>Opdoehl) writes:
>
>> |> ...
>
>> |> On top of this double
>> |> pipe assembly a third pipe must be soldered vertically to the top pipe
>9barrel). how can > |> this third pipe de soldered on without the heat un
>soldering the first pipe assembly > |> (barrel/body)?


A way is to buy jewelers silver solder, which comes in at least 3 melting points, called
"soft, medium and hard". By using the hard first, you can then go down a grade and
 your first joint won't melt. You can assure not passing the melting point by placing
pieces of solder at the joints before, rather than touching it to the hot metal after, heating.

Jon Gellman		My computer is an old testament god,
jmg@dorsai.org		lots of rules and no mercy-Joseph Campell


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Tue Apr 11 23:16:50 EDT 1995
Article: 11124 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk (Charles Lamont)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!uwm.edu!news.moneng.mei.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
Subject: Re: Myford ML-7 Lathe info Urgently Needed
References: <3m1bu5$k6l@newsgate.sps.mot.com>  <345997399wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk> <3lumsv$2mf@data.interserv.net>
Organization: home
Reply-To: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  9
X-Posting-Host: abdab.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 1995 06:14:27 +0000
Message-ID: <393142480wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk

The point I was trying to make was that one would be ill advised to buy 
a metalworking lathe if all one wants to do is woodwork.  This seemed, 
from his original post, to be what John Darlington was proposing to do.

-- 
Charles Lamont




From chris@fc.hp.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:52 EDT 1995
Article: 11125 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!hplextra!news.dtc.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!chris
From: chris@fc.hp.com (Chris Helt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is L-163 Aluminum?
Date: 10 Apr 1995 20:48:46 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <3mc5je$8af@tadpole.fc.hp.com>
References: <3l79kg$l2l@tadpole.fc.hp.com> <niteowl-3003952338260001@rusxppp09.rus.uni-stuttgart.de>
NNTP-Posting-Host: wascal.fc.hp.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1.4]

Thank you for the replys (EMail and here) to my question.  Although I 
am still looking for a cross reference from and L_163 Aluminum to a 
US standard (5053, 6061, 3002, etc), the collective wisdom of the 
net again gave me some good pointers to which alloys would be the best
suited for my application (a race car tub or chassis).

Thank you again.



Chris Helt                               ICBD Design Center
Bldg. 2U-P3                              Hewlett-Packard Company
chris@fc.hp.com                          3404 East Harmony Road
(303) 229-3880                           Ft. Collins, CO  80525-9599
                                         Mail Stop 72


From hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:53 EDT 1995
Article: 11126 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntpa!ssbunews!not-for-mail
From: hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.)
Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
Message-ID: <D6u1Mt.y8@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
Sender: news@ssbunews.ih.att.com (Netnews Administration)
Nntp-Posting-Host: usgp4.ih.att.com
Organization: AT&T
References: <9504051945591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com> <BOULL.103.0008BE0B@agresearch.cri.nz> <Pine.SOL.3.91.950410085205.25480C-100000-100000-100000@comp>
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 1995 18:49:41 GMT
Lines: 15


>For years I have been casting pewter (tin/antimony) into silicone rubber
>molds made of the ordinary caulk which comes in tubes at Walmarts. It
>works fine for short runs and prototype castings and the detail is
>excellent. The only thing to avoid is causing stresses when the metal
>cools by designing molds that have sections of rubber that are surrounded
>by metal. 
>
>I have no idea how long you could use such a mold for long runs. 


How do you do this? What do you use to keep the stuff from sticking
to the pattern? I'm all ears.

                                              Larry Mayo


From KEOliver@ix.netcom.com Tue Apr 11 23:16:55 EDT 1995
Article: 11127 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: KEOliver@ix.netcom.com (Kevin Oliver)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Painting Brass
Date: 10 Apr 1995 21:33:37 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3mc87h$fa0@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dfw5-04.ix.netcom.com

I need to put a semiflat, durable paint finish on brass.  The surface 
does not need to be heat resistant, but needs to be pretty hard and 
reasonably resistant to abrasion.  I would like to know about surface 
preparation, painting and post painting sealing and curing. Thanks for 
your help.
Kevin.
-- 


KEOliver@ix.netcom.com

Tasteless Attorney at Law

My law firm doesn't like me stirring up trouble, so
don't pay attention to anything I have to say.


From BOULL@agresearch.cri.nz Tue Apr 11 23:16:56 EDT 1995
Article: 11128 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!comp.vuw.ac.nz!agresearch.cri.nz!BOULL
From: BOULL@agresearch.cri.nz (Lawrence Boul)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brass pipe soldering
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 08:36:53
Organization: AgResearch,  Lincoln.
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <BOULL.109.00089D9E@agresearch.cri.nz>
References: <9504092107591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: lin042.agrlinc.cri.nz
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]




>    I don't know if this will work or not, but on small pieces of jewelry, I
>use yellow ochre(sp) on the previous solder to keep it from un-soldering.


>Hope this helps

>Carl Sutton

Carl,

What exactly is yellow ochre? - I know its a paint pigment but I guess you are 
not using watercolours.  How does it work.  I do a lot of scratchbuilding of 
models in brass, which is not unlike jewellery.  Your tip could be handy if I 
had more info.

Lawrence :-{



From 74274.213@CompuServe.COM Tue Apr 11 23:16:59 EDT 1995
Article: 11129 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: John Tarrant <74274.213@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brake Presses
Date: 11 Apr 1995 02:05:58 GMT
Organization: via CompuServe Information Service
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <3mco66$6ih$1@mhadg.production.compuserve.com>
References: <3m1qq0$i1d@zaphod.develcon.com>

Dear Merlin,

I just ordered a 320 ton Accurpress for my shop.  Prior to 
ordering it I looked a several different makes but felt 
Accurpress would do the best job for me.  Would be happy to relay 
any info to you.

John T.


From sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Tue Apr 11 23:17:00 EDT 1995
Article: 11130 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!sorlin
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Where to get 1/32" drill bit?
Date: 11 Apr 1995 13:03:59 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <3mdunv$ln7@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: beauty.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu



Hi everybody.  Does anyone know where I can get a couple (I know
I'll break at least one) 1/32" drill bits?  Is there a mail order
place with a nice 800 number?:)  Any mail order place will do as
long as there isn't a large minimum purchase order.

I have looked at all of my local stores, and the smallest they all
carry is 1/16".  I have also looked in the dremel tool section and
can't find smaller bits.

I imagine I would need a special chuck or handle to hold this bit
too.

Thanks,

Steve


From odea56@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:17:01 EDT 1995
Article: 11131 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: odea56@aol.com (Odea56)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tungsten
Date: 10 Apr 1995 03:23:56 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 13
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3mamec$3kh@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <Pine.SUN.3.90.950409013040.15447A-100000@menger.eecs.stevens-t
Reply-To: odea56@aol.com (Odea56)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

There are several dozen sources of tungsten.  What from do you need it in.
 Welding tungsten is the most readily avalible.  It comes in several
legnths 3". 6", 7", 12", 18".  In most parts of the country your average
wqeling supply will only stock 6 or 7 inch legnths.  These rods
(electrodes) come in >020, .040, 1.16, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 1/4 inch
diameters

You can also have almost any size or shape made using powder metalurgy. 
Sheet is also avalible.  

Email me,  I'll be happy to find you a source once you know what you want

ODEA56@AOL.COM


From odea56@aol.com Tue Apr 11 23:17:03 EDT 1995
Article: 11132 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: odea56@aol.com (Odea56)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mo' Welder Advice
Date: 10 Apr 1995 03:24:17 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 42
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3mamf1$3kr@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3m50r3$g60@news.icaen.uiowa.edu>
Reply-To: odea56@aol.com (Odea56)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

My memory of A "Baja Car" is mostly open tube construction with minimal
sheet metal work.  BUY the TIG.

Mig is easy to learn but hell on complicated parts/joints.  If you were
going to do a lot of sheetmetal work, body and fender stuff, the MIG would
be the best choice because of the low heat input (distortion) and the high
speed (less work on long welds)

Tig however is far more versitile.  You do not have to buy a large spool
of alloy.  You have excelent control and can esily get into tight spaces. 
You will often get a better quality weld.  (whole lot of variables here). 


Try the Miller Econotig.  It sells for anywhere between $1200 to $1600
depending on where you live.

Good luck
ODEA56@AOL.COM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Original post:
	What I am really at a loss for is the welder.  I have used a small
125v, 100 amp Mig in the past, and it will likely work for building our
rollcage and other assorted items.  I wasn't impressed with the machines,
but
this comes after using the larger Miller with a good wirefeed, and good
power.

	I have also been using a Tig here at school so far on the project,
and have really grown to like the way the welds look, and the
controllability.
The problem being is that the Tig will be more expensive, and may require
more
training to teach others how to use it effectively.  The Mig seems to be
more
of a point and shoot item.

	Any advice or ideas on who to contact for more information?

Thanks,
Matt




From USERID@InforMNs.k12.MN.US Tue Apr 11 23:17:04 EDT 1995
Article: 11133 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!InforMNs.k12.MN.us!msp82-4.nas.mr.net!user
From: USERID@InforMNs.k12.MN.US ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Breisch model gas engines
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 11 Apr 1995 19:29:25 GMT
Organization: Internet for Minnesota Schools Project
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <USERID-270400035104@msp82-4.nas.mr.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: msp82-4.nas.mr.net

Several requests have been posted for information on the (late) Breisch
engines.
Here is the current address.

 								Breisch/Peters
>        Jay A. Peters
>        14 Maria Lane
>        Schwenksville, PA  19473
>        (610) 287-5179
>
>To order brochure about Breisch/Peters working model Gas Engines send $1.00
>to the above address
>


From flint@uclaue.mbi.ucla.edu Tue Apr 11 23:17:05 EDT 1995
Article: 11134 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!library.ucla.edu!nnrp.info.ucla.edu!usenet
From: Flint Smith <flint@uclaue.mbi.ucla.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
Date: 11 Apr 1995 02:52:06 GMT
Organization: University of California, Los Angeles
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <3mcqsm$jro@saba.info.ucla.edu>
References: <9504051945591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com> <BOULL.103.0008BE0B@agresearch.cri.nz> <Pine.SOL.3.91.950410085205.25480C-100000-100000-100000@comp> <D6u1Mt.y8@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: holmes.mbi.ucla.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1b3 (X11; I; IRIX 5.2 IP22)
To: hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com
X-URL: news:D6u1Mt.y8@ssbunews.ih.att.com

hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.) wrote:
>>...
>> The only thing to avoid is causing stresses when the metal
>>cools by designing molds that have sections of rubber that are surrounded
>>by metal. 

What do you mean by this?  Does having rubber surrounded by metal cause stress
or avoid causing stress?

What do you think of the earlier post suggesting using the high temperature
"copper" RTV rubber surrounded by the regular rubber?

How do you melt your pewter?  Do you have an easy way to keep the temperature
in a range that wont destroy the mold?  I guess it would be easy to overheat
the metal used in these rubber molds.

Sure sounds like a hacker-friendly method.

Thanks,
Flint Smith  flint@uclaue.mbi.ucla.edu



From howard@perth.DIALix.oz.au Tue Apr 11 23:17:06 EDT 1995
Article: 11135 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!DIALix!not-for-mail
From: howard@perth.DIALix.oz.au (Howard Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum finishing on Lathe?
Date: 7 Apr 1995 19:10:41 +0800
Organization: DIALix Services, Perth, Australia.
Lines: 23
Sender: howard@perth.DIALix.oz.au
Message-ID: <3m36jh$g2l$1@perth.DIALix.oz.au>
References: <3lvffv$4h2@crl.crl.com> <3m05i1$8ja@elvis.vnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: perth.dialix.oz.au
NNTP-Posting-User: howard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

murr rhame (murr@elvis.vnet.net) wrote:
: stltrans@crl.com (Steven Marcotte) writes:

: >I'm trying to turn some automotive parts made out of cast aluminum on a 
: >Monarch Lathe.

: >I need a mirror like finish.  

: >Any good ideas about tooling??

at the risk of seeming crude.......
I get polished finishes by using a nicely finished tool in hss, using
liberal amounts of mineral turpentine as the cutting fluid.
(on aluminium using turps gets a better finish ) pay attention to the 
top rake when grinding the tool, aluminium needs a fair amount.
I dont know whether "Brasso" is marketted in the usa but it polishes 
aluminium to a very high polish.....after making everything nearby black.
I am only using the technique for small spinner nuts on model aircraft
but the polish lasts for years.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Howard Jones, (howard@perth.dialix.oz.au)                      _--_|\
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Tue Apr 11 23:17:08 EDT 1995
Article: 11136 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!sorlin
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to get 1/32" drill bit?
Date: 11 Apr 1995 20:04:46 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <3mencu$p6b@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
References: <3mdunv$ln7@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu


As to not waste space here with more followups,
I was given a tip to find small drill bits at a model train
store.  And I did.


thanks,

steve


From palama@posso.dm.unipi.it Tue Apr 11 23:17:09 EDT 1995
Article: 11137 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!serra.unipi.it!newsserver.unipi.it!palama
From: palama@posso.dm.unipi.it (Antonio Palama')
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: rotary phase converters
Date: 07 Apr 1995 11:25:57 GMT
Organization: Universita' di Pisa
Lines: 57
Message-ID: <PALAMA.95Apr7132557@pappo.posso.dm.unipi.it>
References: <3lsdf0$1hv@rational.rational.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pappo.dm.unipi.it
In-reply-to: davide@rational.com's message of 4 Apr 1995 21:24:48 GMT

In article <3lsdf0$1hv@rational.rational.com> 
davide@rational.com (David Erickson) writes:


   I have a few questions about rotary phase converters.  I just finished
   wiring a magnetic starter and some outlets for mine, and the electrical
   connections surprised me.  There were only three connections inside the
   box on the phase converter - is this typical?  I had expected five
   connections (2 in and 3 out).  Instead there are 2 in and 1 out.  I
   thought a phase converter was a motor generator, but all it does is
   generate the third phase.  

The phase converter you describe is, most probably, of the Ferraris-Arno
type; in August 1994 I mailed an article to this newsgroup with the references
to the theory of the method and a practical discussion of how to implement it
using an ordinary 3-phase induction motor. I do not have a copy of that posting
handy but, should someone be interested, I could repost it next week.

   So, how does this third phase relate to the 220V input?  There is no
   way that the three phases are balanced... (how could they be, since the 
   input phases are already 180 degrees apart).  How many volts will there
   be between the two input phases and the generated phase?  How will this
   vary with load (i.e., is it a bad idea to have the phase converter
   running without any load, or with a very small load in relation to its
   size)?

   I'm going to run some experiments to find out, but I'd welcome hearing
   from any EE's who could explain some of the theory here. 

   Another thing that surprised me: I opened the box on top of the phase
   converter that holds the electrical components that generate the
   third phase.  All that was inside the box were two large capacitor
   banks.  Actually, I don't know if those banks were used in generating
   the third phase or in starting the phase converter.  Any information
   that could shed some light on this would be appreciated. 

A simplified theory of the method is the following:
One can write the single phase AC voltage as the sum of two 3-phase systems
of the same voltage and rotating in opposite directions. An asyncronous
induction motor running near syncronous speed (e.g. 2950 RPM for a 2-pole
50 Hz motor) has a very high impedence for the 3-phase system rotating in
the same direction of the motor and a very low impedence for the other one.
So one of the two 3-phase systems is short circuited by the motor while the
other one is left undisturbed.
The role of the capacitor is both that of starting the phase converter and that
of improving the balancing of the output 3-phase system. In theory one should
use a specific capacitance for every load on the converter but, in practice,
a reasonable compromise can be worked out.
This method is inehrently risky for the load motor since the 3-phase system
produced by the converter is unbalanced and this can overheat the load
motor. Nevertheless I had no problem using this type of converter in my 
workshop.

Good luck.

Antonio.



From BOULL@agresearch.cri.nz Tue Apr 11 23:17:10 EDT 1995
Article: 11138 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!comp.vuw.ac.nz!agresearch.cri.nz!BOULL
From: BOULL@agresearch.cri.nz (Lawrence Boul)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 1995 08:44:29
Organization: AgResearch,  Lincoln.
Lines: 60
Message-ID: <BOULL.103.0008BE0B@agresearch.cri.nz>
References: <9504051945591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: lin042.agrlinc.cri.nz
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

In article <9504051945591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com> carl620@delphi.com (Carl Sutton) writes:
>From: carl620@delphi.com (Carl Sutton)
>Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
>Date: 5 Apr 1995 23:59:39 GMT

>In article <ginger.128.000B34F9@pcm.ultranet.com>, ginger@pcm.ultranet.com
>(Ron Ginger) writes: > In article <3lj49n$5ti@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
>ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) writes: > >From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)

>> >Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
>> >Date: 1 Apr 1995 03:53:11 -0500
>> 
>> >What are you talking about ? I have never heard of anyone pouring hot
>> >metal into a rubber mold. The rubber molds are for the replication of
>> >waxes to be used in investment casting. I can't think of any rubber that
>> >can withstand the heat of molten tin let alone bronze.
>> 
>> .......rest deleted.
>> 
>> Yes, you certainly can cast SOME metal in rubber molds. Mostly pewter and 
>> similar metas. Its widely used in the model business- like model boat kit 
>> fittings, and in some jewelery and 'craft' products.


>   Never heard of this happening in the years i've been in the jewelry
>business 


>> The rubber is supplied in sheet form, about 1/2" thick. The parts are laid out
>> on it, a parting dust applied, and another sheet of rubber placed on top. The 
>> whole sandwich is then vulcanized in a hot press.


>      Yes, and then the mold is carefully cut apart so that a negative image
>is retained.  The rubber mold is then sealed shut and wax is forced into it.
>The wax is then taken out and put in a flask where investment is poured around
>it.  The wax is then burnt out in an oven and the plaster filled with the
>desired metal.  The plaster is then quenshed and breaks apart, leaving the
>desired piece.


>> See any jewelery supply catalog for materials.

>     See most jewelry making instruction books.

> 
>> Ron Ginger

I think you are at cross purposes here.  Ron is talking of the investment or 
lost wax process which is good for precious metals and high temp allows such 
as brass etc.  The  Process for pewter that is alluded to is quite different 
and generally produces a lower quality of casting (but not much lower).  This 
is a spin casting process using Rubber moulds as described previously.  If you 
want a lot of parts it can be very economic.  Here in NZ we get a 6" radius  
(I think) rubber made for around US$35.  Pewter is c. US$8 per kilo and there 
is a per spin charge of a couple of dollars.

Both processes are comonly used for producing model railway kitsets.

Lawrence


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Tue Apr 11 23:17:11 EDT 1995
Article: 11139 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!waldorf.csc.calpoly.edu!zimmer!news
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Subject: Laser cutting question
Message-ID: <D6svz7.8u8@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
Sender: Greg Lewis
Nntp-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu
Organization: CSU Fresno
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 1995 03:49:55 GMT
Expires: Tue, 30 May 1995 07:00:00 GMT
Lines: 17


I'm having a live steamer main frame laser cut from hot rolled plate.
A friend of mine says the cutting will leave very hard edges that will
be tough to machine, yet the guy at the company that will do the
cutting says no. Anyone have experience with this? I'll need to
machine the axle slots and lands for valve gear brackets, and drill
holes here and there through the cut edges. I've set up the edges to
have .050 machining allowance. Perhaps I should allow more so the
edges can be rough ground through the hard spots before machining.
Anyone have experience with this? THANKS!

___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010


From af815@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Tue Apr 11 23:17:13 EDT 1995
Article: 11140 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af815
From: af815@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John Darlington)
Subject: Re: Myford ML-7 Lathe info Urgently Needed
Message-ID: <D6uLwI.L5I@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: af815@freenet3.carleton.ca (John Darlington)
Reply-To: af815@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John Darlington)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 02:07:30 GMT
Lines: 53

In a previous posting, Reg Barron (BarronR@cc.ims.disa.mil) writes:
>>   . I have picked up>  the UNIMAT DB-200 to see if I can do what I want to do 
> (mainly turn some wood>  pens & pencils, which I may not be able to do because 
> of the clearance between>  centers, unless I want to turn each half separately, then 
> I will take it back>  & try to sell it to a metalworker/modelmaker).>  
>> >  Regards,
>>  JD 
>>  
>>>>>
> I understand that Blue Ridge Machinery sells extended (extra long) way bars, so 
> you may be able to replace the original ones and have enough 
> distance between centers to do pencils etc.   However, the original Unimat
> has a distance between centers of just under 7".   The mechincal pens & pencil in 
> my pocket are about 6".  So you may still be O.K.
>
>  Reg Barron
 
Reg,
	Thanks for the info on Blue Ridge you sent via e-mail. You are right
about the between centers being 6 & 9/10". The mandrel sold at Lee Valley is
set up so that you but a bushing on it, followed by a piece of wood for the 
lower section of pen, followed by the middle bushing, then the wood piece for
the upper pen section, and then the last bushing. Facing the lathe, the left 
(plain) end of the mandrel is secured in a Morse Taper which has been put in
the headstock and the right end of the mandrel (which is threaded and has a 
washer & nut to snug up against one of the end bushings & has a bit of a 
hollow end) is held lightly by a dead center.

On the Unimat DB-200, everything is the same except there is no Morse Taper so
the mandrel is held in the headstock by a drill chuck. Consequently, there is
not enough clearance for all those pieces. What I had to do was cut off a piece
of the mandrel (plain end) and I can only turn one half of the pen/pencil at
one time. 

I am sure this sounds very primitive to all you expert turners out there, but
after not being within shouting distance of a lathe since 1960, at 5:00 PM
Eastern Daylight Time yesterday, I had turned the top and bottom parts for a
ball-point pen out of a wood called Mopane. What with supper and 60 Minutes,
etc. I didn't get it assembled until about 12:00 midnight, but I was quite
pleased with myself.

Will I keep the Unimat DB-200?                       I'm not sure yet.
Will I call Blue Ridge about extension bars?         You bet!
Did I like turning that project?                     Absolutely.
Do I have any concerns?     			     Yes. I think that if
                                                     I'm going to add these
                                                     items to my craft shows,
                                                     I have to turn both parts
                                                     at the same time to make
                                                     it worthwhile.
Regards,
JD
    


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Tue Apr 11 23:17:14 EDT 1995
Article: 11141 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.kreonet.re.kr!insosf1.infonet.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.duke.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!pcm.ultranet.com!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is this stepper ok for CNC Sherline?
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 21:39:50 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <ginger.132.000F654C@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <3lsibr$lnp@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca> <3m22ep$4oa@crl10.crl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pcm.ultranet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

In article <3m22ep$4oa@crl10.crl.com> kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) writes:
>From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
>Subject: Re: Is this stepper ok for CNC Sherline?
>Date: 6 Apr 1995 17:53:45 -0700

I have a Sherline lathe with 80 oz-in steppers. 20 ohm coils, I run them at .5 
amp. very adequate power for a Sherline. Id guess the 150 oz-in would be to 
big, and the 4.5 amp sure makes the controller more money.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From dwarner@atlanta.com@atlanta.com Tue Apr 11 23:17:15 EDT 1995
Article: 11142 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!emory!metro.atlanta.com!news
From: dwarner@atlanta.com@atlanta.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Black (oxide?) finish on aluminum?
Date: 11 Apr 1995 03:51:33 GMT
Organization: Internet Atlanta
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <3mcuc5$97r@metro.atlanta.com>
Reply-To: dwarner@atlanta.com@atlanta.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: dwarner.atlanta.com
X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.09

Some years ago I had a small stamped aluminum tool with a flat black finish 
on it.  I discovered that this finish was extremely hard when I had to drill a
hole in it.  I seem to recall that this coating was aluminum oxide (makes 
sense, as it's used on sandpaper...)  

Anyway, is it possible to apply this surface treatment in a home shop 
situation?,  If so, how (or point me to some good reference material.

Thanks in advance.



From VBTM10A@prodigy.com Tue Apr 11 23:17:16 EDT 1995
Article: 11143 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!swiss.ans.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: VBTM10A@prodigy.com (Dennis Wodtli)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: COMPACT 8 QUESTION
Date: 7 Apr 1995 20:02:24 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 29
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3m45og$3ds@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>
References: <3lt7jc$nf4@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com> <3m2vs4$km2@news.xs4all.nl>
NNTP-Posting-Host: inugap4.news.prodigy.com
X-Newsreader: Version 1.2

A fellow who bought one 6 months ago says it will do 8 thru 56 TPI and 
the USA distributor says it will do 4 thru 64 TPI.  This is OK, it won't 
do every thread listed in the Machinery Handbook, but I don't use ALL of 
those threads, just the more common ones.

Know what you mean about those cheap lathes, had one for a month and 
experienced the problems.  Thought I could solve then, but when I 
discovered the spindle threads were part way between 8 TPI and 3mm, I 
gave up.  Fortunately, the company offered to refund my money, so it was 
a free education.

Thanks for the comments on the lathe, I think I' get it.



>There are cheaper lathes on the market; many are copies of the Compact 8.

>
>I am *very* glad that I purchased the original; it is a fine well made, 
solid
>(for its size) tool. I can't believe that I made do with cheap lathes 
for so
>many years... (also the resale value is probably good; I wonder about 
those
>cheaper lathes; what is the resale value of those?)
>
>John Stewart
>john@amanda.xs4all.nl



From adc@news.dorsai.org Tue Apr 11 23:17:18 EDT 1995
Article: 11144 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org!adc
From: adc@news.dorsai.org (Frank Didik)
Subject: Re: 5" grinder endorsement
Message-ID: <D6ut8v.1FL@dorsai.org>
Sender: news@dorsai.org (Keeper of the News)
Organization: The Dorsai Embassy - New York
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <3m8daf$f8r@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 04:46:06 GMT
Lines: 57

The Horbor Freight 4"  "cheapo" grinder which they sell for only $29 has 
worked very well for me.   It seems to be almost the same as the Makita 
version with the metal head.

 ErnieLeim (ernieleim@aol.com) 
wrote: : I just thought I'd pass this on to anybody interested.
: I don't know how many Welder/Fabricator/Blacksmiths there are here but
: this should interest all.
: I have found that the most used tool in my shop is in fact a 4-1/2 in
: right angle grinder. I've spent days doing finish work with one with any
: number of discs or heads on it.
: I have one that is now a random orbital and another that is dedicated to a
: biscuit joiner. I have 3 more that get switched back and forth between
: Grinding wheels , cuttoff wheels , flapper -sanding discs, wire wheels,
: Scotch brite discs and sandind pads. I also have a pair of tungsten
: carbide burr discs for shaping wood very quickly.

: In the past I have always used SKIL grinders , Not that they are
: necessarily the best , but they are affordable, at $80 a piece, easily
: fixed, and fit my hand real nice. Since I've started using more aluminum I
: noticed that the increase in friction has been making my little grinders
: prettty hot.

: ( Now to the jist of my nub...so to speak....)

: Porter Cable just started selling a 5 in. grinder that I finally decided
: to try. 
: Absolutly outstanding !!!
: I don't think I've ever been so impressed with a new tool. Not only does
: it have considerably more power but is only slightly larger, and has a
: wonderful shaft lock button.
: I suspect that it is in fact a Metabo (Rolls Royce of powertools) grinder
: since it is made in Germany and bears a remarkable similarity to Metabo's
: I've used in the past. At $110 it costs about $60 less than a Metabo 5 in.
: and seems to be every bit as good.
: So, for whatever my opinion is worth, I heartily endorse this little beast
: to any in the market for a better hand grinder.

: Happy grinding

: PS It uses the now standard 5/8-11 shaft thread , so it is compatible with
: most current attachments.



: @---------------------------------------------------------@
:                     Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

:                   Stagesmith Productions                                  
:                                           
:                  Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
:                
: *    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
:                         Renton, WA                                        
:    
: *"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
: @---------------------------------------------------------@


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Tue Apr 11 23:17:19 EDT 1995
Article: 11145 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning stainless steel
Message-ID: <1995Apr11.165821.10070@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 11 Apr 95 16:58:21 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <joubert.66.2F850B52@cc.und.ac.za> <1995Apr11.065526.1935@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <D6w1KB.IKL@dorsai.org>
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming
Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
Lines: 19


>CRS? (for us acronym impaired)

>From the FAQ:

23.  What is XYZ made of?

     3. Steels
              ...
        a. What is CRS?  Cold Rolled Steel.

        b. What is HRS?  Hot Rolled Steel.

        c. What is HSS?  High Speed Steel.

As for the annealing question, yes it's important, at least for copper,
but hopefully somebody else can address this re stainless steel.

Jim


From jmg@dorsai.org Tue Apr 11 23:17:24 EDT 1995
Article: 11146 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org!news
From: jmg@dorsai.org (Jon Gellman)
Subject: Re: Wanted: Copper Sheets
Message-ID: <D6uwGy.4A7@dorsai.org>
Sender: news@dorsai.org (Keeper of the News)
Organization: The Dorsai Embassy - New York
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #2.1
References: <8A6B55C.0261000F7C.uuout@corpsoft.com> <3m97bj$jiq@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 05:00:54 GMT
Lines: 12

copsmith@aol.com (Copsmith) wrote:
>You can get 20 or 24 oz copper at sheet metal shops. They will probably
>have some in their scrap bin. If it's not thick enough, you can sweat two
>pieces together. If it is just decorative, this will work fine.


Mcmaster-Carr Supply has a good variety by mail order, and they take credit cards.
Just sound like a big business if you aren't. Northeast location # 908-329-3200.
Their catalog has everything on the planet, really. No, REALLY.

Jon Gellman		My computer is an old testament god,
jmg@dorsai.org		lots of rules and no mercy-Joseph Campell


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Tue Apr 11 23:17:25 EDT 1995
Article: 11147 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: slinky
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Message-ID: <D6w4zy.JpK@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Sender: postmaster@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
X-Nntp-Posting-Date: Tue Apr 11 17:57:32 1995
Organization: Ohio University, College of Engineerng & Technology
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 21:57:34 GMT
Lines: 12

My mathematics professor has taken to fooling with a steel "Slinky" spring
toy at his desk.  We were looking at it today and the question came up:  
How are these things made?  (Prof said, "well, you'd start with a steel 
cylinder...").  The slinky consists of a flat-wound spring of fairly 
tough steel plated with what looks like cadmium.   
  I was speculating that the slinky might be made as follows: You'd start
with a round steel wire with the temper let down so it's soft.  Then wind
it into a spring and run it through rollers to give the wire a rectangular
cross-section and simultaneously work harden it to give a nice hard spring
wire.  Then you'd plate it. 
  Does anyone know if this sounds correct?  
                             M Kinsler


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Tue Apr 11 23:17:26 EDT 1995
Article: 11148 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk (Charles Lamont)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sunsite.doc.ic.ac.uk!doc.news.pipex.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
Subject: Re: Tender Tank Questions
References: <3mbk8i$5pr@charnel.ecst.CSUChico.EDU>
Organization: home
Reply-To: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  13
X-Posting-Host: abdab.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 06:47:16 +0000
Message-ID: <136543054wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk


I have checked up in Martin Evans' book "Manual of Model Steam 
Locomotive Construction" and his "Highlander" design in Model 
Engineer (1967) to see what he says about ride-on tenders of this sort 
of size.  He recommends an outer shell made of 1/16" mild steel, to 
carry all the scale detail and the weight, and inside it, a 
baffled, soldered 1/16" brass tank to hold the water.

--
Charles Lamont




From ixthos@access2.digex.net Fri Apr 14 20:20:20 EDT 1995
Article: 11114 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news1.digex.net!news3.digex.net!digex.net!not-for-mail
From: ixthos@access2.digex.net (Ixthos)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: WTB a ROTARY TABLE...
Date: 10 Apr 1995 18:09:48 -0400
Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA
Lines: 10
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <3mcabc$rg4@access2.digex.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: access2.digex.net


   Hi;

 I need a rotary table 6 - 8 inches vertcal/horizontal mount. Anybody 
have an extra???

 Thanks;

 C.W.



From carla2@teleport.com Fri Apr 14 20:20:22 EDT 1995
Article: 11115 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!psgrain!news.teleport.com!news.teleport.com!not-for-mail
From: carla2@teleport.com (Carla Fong)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: MIG Welders
Date: 6 Apr 1995 11:54:55 -0700
Organization: Teleport - Portland's Public Access (503) 220-1016
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <3m1ddv$86s@kelly.teleport.com>
References: <arlenac-0404951955030001@blv-pm0-ip4.halcyon.com> <D6KzHL.JB2@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: kelly.teleport.com


>>Has anyone had any experience with the small,wire feed MIG welders,either
>>the 110 volt units or the 220 volt models. I would be using it to weld
>>3/4" and 1" square tubing and thin wall 1" round tubing.  Any comments
>>would be appreciated

I got one of the little Lincoln wirefeed machines that costco had for 
about $275 to supplement my shop welder. It's a flux core unit that works 
fine on sheet metal to about 3/16" in one pass, and will do acceptable 
work with multi passes on thicker material.

If this is going to be your only wirefeed machine, opt for the most 
amperage you can, and get the gas feed attachment so you can do real gas 
shielded welding. If you are mainly interested in portability, then the 
flux core/110 volt is a super deal.

BTW, the "hood" that comes with these machines is a joke, so get a good 
one and salvage the filter out of the one they give you in the kit. Throw 
the rest of it away...
-- 
carla2@teleport.COM          God has angels to help with her work, 
                             The devil has politicians


From mdelevie@wam.umd.edu Fri Apr 14 20:20:24 EDT 1995
Article: 11116 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!mdelevie
From: mdelevie@wam.umd.edu (Mark Y. deLevie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mo' Welder Advice
Date: 9 Apr 1995 11:58:28 GMT
Organization: University of Maryland College Park
Lines: 7
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3m8i54$ov4@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu>
References: <3m50r3$g60@news.icaen.uiowa.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rac2.wam.umd.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0]

Matt Bushore (mbushore@icaen.uiowa.edu) wrote:
: The problem being is that the Tig will be more expensive, and may require more
: training to teach others how to use it effectively.  The Mig seems to be more
: of a point and shoot item.

Isn't that the whole reason for the school's sponsorship / funding?  They're
*supposed* to have to learn things!  Go with the Tig, in my opinion.


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Apr 14 20:20:25 EDT 1995
Article: 11117 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Anodzing info needed. Pleae!
Message-ID: <1995Apr10.113018.10019@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 10 Apr 95 11:30:18 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <3m196s$j1p@umcc.umcc.umich.edu>
Distribution: usa,world
Organization: University of Wyoming
Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
Lines: 14


In article <3m196s$j1p@umcc.umcc.umich.edu>, soko@umcc.umcc.umich.edu (Philip Sokolowski) writes:
|>There have been some interesting discussions on rec.sports.paintball lately
|>about anodizing.  It has been teh fad recently to get your gun "custom
|>colored" and it is expensive around here.  Now, as I understand, it is not
|>that difficult, noe expensive, so if anyone can send me some info on what
|>you need, and how to go about the process, please let me know!  I especially
|>need info on what metals can and can not be anodized, how to strip
|>anodizing, and what is required/where to purchase it.

A start would be to check out our FAQ.  It can be obtained at
plains.uwyo.edu, in the METAL directory.  Try part 5, question 29.

Jim


From ian@sywell.demon.co.uk Fri Apr 14 20:20:26 EDT 1995
Article: 11118 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: ian@sywell.demon.co.uk (Ian Harris)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!sywell.demon.co.uk!ian
Subject: Re: What is L-163 Aluminum?
References: <3l79kg$l2l@tadpole.fc.hp.com> <ZAzeIi9.hayesp@delphi.com>
Organization: Who knows?
Reply-To: ian@sywell.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  28
X-Posting-Host: sywell.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 1995 18:00:14 +0000
Message-ID: <744512719wnr@sywell.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk

In article: <ZAzeIi9.hayesp@delphi.com>  PAUL <hayesp@delphi.com> writes:

> >English race car.  The aluminum is marked "L_163" and "RDUR_PECHINEY".  
> >The markings are very faint and smeared, so give the name some latitude
> >in my spelling.  The L_163 rings a bell as a european standard, but of 
> >course I can not find any reference to it. The following information 
> >or pointers as to where I might find it is appreciated.
> 

Sorry, I havn't got your orriginal posting and the "English race car." part 
is extremely intriuging being into British motorsport myself.

Anyway; L_163 -> have you tried looking for LM63?  All the aluminium 
designations that I am familiar with begin with LM ie LM25 etc but LM63 does 
not appear on my list which is by no means complete.  I have asked my father
who thinks it may be a designation for sheet forming metal - bodyshell?
Anyway, another avenue to search??
 
Hope this is of some help.

 _________________________________________________________ \\\\\  ///// __ 
| Ian Harris - ian@sywell.demon.co.uk                      <| . >< . |>   | 
|    "it takes forty men with their feet on the             \__/  \__/    |
|     ground to keep one man with his head in the air."         oo        |
| Phone: (01604) 642662                                       \____/      |
|_Snail: 16, Stonelea Road, Sywell, Northampton. NN6 0AZ. England_________|




From hinrichs@ils.nwu.edu Fri Apr 14 20:20:28 EDT 1995
Article: 11119 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!movietone.ils.nwu.edu!hinrichs.ils.nwu.edu!user
From: hinrichs@ils.nwu.edu (Tom Hinrichs)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Group in Skokie
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 01:42:35 -0500
Organization: Institute for the Learning Sciences
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <hinrichs-1104950142350001@hinrichs.ils.nwu.edu>
References: <1995Apr5.173102.11369@ultb.isc.rit.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hinrichs.ils.nwu.edu

In article <1995Apr5.173102.11369@ultb.isc.rit.edu>,
mds5597@vaxb.isc.rit.edu wrote:

>         Hello there.  I was wondering if there is a blacksmith or knife/sword
> making group in the Skokie, IL area.  I am moving there in the summer to study
> at a Rabbinical school.

If you hear of one, please let me know.  I live in Roger's Park right next
to Skokie and would be very interested learning more about blacksmithing.

- Tom

P.S.  I went to the 'Eigenfest' last summer in Amana Iowa & highly recommend it.
It's a free festival sponsored by ABANA and had a couple of dozen blacksmiths
demonstrating everything from horseshoe making to knife making.  And if
you've never seen an 'anvil shoot', that alone is worth the trip!


From bo1115@delphi.com Fri Apr 14 20:20:29 EDT 1995
Article: 11120 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet
From: Bruce Olson <bo1115@delphi.com>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: ???Welding Wire Ends, How Do I Do It???
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 95 11:37:54 -0500
Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <xw79Ao6.bo1115@delphi.com>
References: <D6KnCw.I03@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1e.delphi.com
X-To: -Mayo,H.H. <hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com>

-Mayo,H.H. <hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com> writes:
 
>I'm working on a project duplicating bent-wire clamps. These clamps
>are made of several pieces of 1/8 inch wire welded together somehow
>to produce a nice clean piece.  The problem is that I can't figure
>out how they were done. The welds where the end of one piece butts
 
I have used a butt welder for bandsaw blades to weld 1/8 wire (steel) into
circles.  This worked very well and I was able to set the controls to
eliminate most of the flash with a small amount of swelling at the joint
where the metal ends met.  This machine was ideal in that it held the
ends in perfect alignment and had the required amperage settings.


From uety03@ux7.hrz.uni-dortmund.de Fri Apr 14 20:20:31 EDT 1995
Article: 11121 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!Germany.EU.net!Dortmund.Germany.EU.net!Uni-Dortmund.DE!ux7!uety03
From: uety03@ux7.hrz.uni-dortmund.de (ponner)
Newsgroups: rec.boats,rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Boatbuilding with exotic metals (and associated techniques)
Followup-To: rec.boats,rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 6 Apr 1995 15:27:05 GMT
Organization: HRZ, University of Dortmund, Germany
Lines: 18
Message-ID: <3m1189$pp5@nx2.hrz.uni-dortmund.de>
References: <3lpvk4$cep@news.alaska.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ux7.hrz.uni-dortmund.de
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.boats:68798 rec.crafts.metalworking:11121


: Anybody know how to build a sailboat hull that would need essentially
: no maintenance for 1,000 years? :-)
: I am interested in obtaining information on boatbuilding with exotic
: metals (and associated techniques) such as titanium.
: Anybody have any interesting pointers or thoughts?
: Aaron

I remember a german book "Korrosion auf Yachten" where a test somewhere
in south america was reported. They compared various metals in their 
underwater performance; best was "monel" alloy (60% nickel, 40% copper
or so). Needed *no* maintenance for years! (Don't expect a test over 
the period you mention :-)). Better than having me looking up the exact
source will be that some of you english-speaking newsreaders search for
that test. Post everything here if you're successful or not. Hope my hints 
help.

-Ulrich Sikkema using his boss' account 


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Apr 14 20:20:33 EDT 1995
Article: 11122 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!waldorf.csc.calpoly.edu!zimmer!news
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Subject: Discount mail order bearings source?
Message-ID: <D6u5Mt.F93@CSUFresno.EDU>
Sender: Greg Lewis
Nntp-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu
Organization: CSU Fresno
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 1995 20:16:05 GMT
Lines: 15


As the header says, does anyone have a discount mail order bearings
source for standard size (not miniature... I know about Small Parts
Inc.) bearings. I tried to get a catalog from Bailey Sales, but they
won't send me one (:-(

I can pay retail right here in town, so discount is a part of the
request. THANKS!


___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing


From jmg@dorsai.org Fri Apr 14 20:20:34 EDT 1995
Article: 11123 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org!news
From: jmg@dorsai.org (Jon Gellman)
Subject: Re: Brass pipe soldering
Message-ID: <D6uw85.44D@dorsai.org>
Sender: news@dorsai.org (Keeper of the News)
Organization: The Dorsai Embassy - New York
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #2.1
References: <9504092107591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 04:55:38 GMT
Lines: 19


>> In article <1995Apr4.125131.3374@news.uit.no>, stigo@stud.cs.uit.no (Stig
>Opdoehl) writes:
>
>> |> ...
>
>> |> On top of this double
>> |> pipe assembly a third pipe must be soldered vertically to the top pipe
>9barrel). how can > |> this third pipe de soldered on without the heat un
>soldering the first pipe assembly > |> (barrel/body)?


A way is to buy jewelers silver solder, which comes in at least 3 melting points, called
"soft, medium and hard". By using the hard first, you can then go down a grade and
 your first joint won't melt. You can assure not passing the melting point by placing
pieces of solder at the joints before, rather than touching it to the hot metal after, heating.

Jon Gellman		My computer is an old testament god,
jmg@dorsai.org		lots of rules and no mercy-Joseph Campell


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Fri Apr 14 20:20:37 EDT 1995
Article: 11124 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk (Charles Lamont)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!night.primate.wisc.edu!newsspool.doit.wisc.edu!uwm.edu!news.moneng.mei.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
Subject: Re: Myford ML-7 Lathe info Urgently Needed
References: <3m1bu5$k6l@newsgate.sps.mot.com>  <345997399wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk> <3lumsv$2mf@data.interserv.net>
Organization: home
Reply-To: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  9
X-Posting-Host: abdab.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 1995 06:14:27 +0000
Message-ID: <393142480wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk

The point I was trying to make was that one would be ill advised to buy 
a metalworking lathe if all one wants to do is woodwork.  This seemed, 
from his original post, to be what John Darlington was proposing to do.

-- 
Charles Lamont




From chris@fc.hp.com Fri Apr 14 20:20:39 EDT 1995
Article: 11125 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!hplextra!news.dtc.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!chris
From: chris@fc.hp.com (Chris Helt)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: What is L-163 Aluminum?
Date: 10 Apr 1995 20:48:46 GMT
Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <3mc5je$8af@tadpole.fc.hp.com>
References: <3l79kg$l2l@tadpole.fc.hp.com> <niteowl-3003952338260001@rusxppp09.rus.uni-stuttgart.de>
NNTP-Posting-Host: wascal.fc.hp.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1.4]

Thank you for the replys (EMail and here) to my question.  Although I 
am still looking for a cross reference from and L_163 Aluminum to a 
US standard (5053, 6061, 3002, etc), the collective wisdom of the 
net again gave me some good pointers to which alloys would be the best
suited for my application (a race car tub or chassis).

Thank you again.



Chris Helt                               ICBD Design Center
Bldg. 2U-P3                              Hewlett-Packard Company
chris@fc.hp.com                          3404 East Harmony Road
(303) 229-3880                           Ft. Collins, CO  80525-9599
                                         Mail Stop 72


From hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com Fri Apr 14 20:20:41 EDT 1995
Article: 11126 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntpa!ssbunews!not-for-mail
From: hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.)
Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
Message-ID: <D6u1Mt.y8@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
Sender: news@ssbunews.ih.att.com (Netnews Administration)
Nntp-Posting-Host: usgp4.ih.att.com
Organization: AT&T
References: <9504051945591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com> <BOULL.103.0008BE0B@agresearch.cri.nz> <Pine.SOL.3.91.950410085205.25480C-100000-100000-100000@comp>
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 1995 18:49:41 GMT
Lines: 15


>For years I have been casting pewter (tin/antimony) into silicone rubber
>molds made of the ordinary caulk which comes in tubes at Walmarts. It
>works fine for short runs and prototype castings and the detail is
>excellent. The only thing to avoid is causing stresses when the metal
>cools by designing molds that have sections of rubber that are surrounded
>by metal. 
>
>I have no idea how long you could use such a mold for long runs. 


How do you do this? What do you use to keep the stuff from sticking
to the pattern? I'm all ears.

                                              Larry Mayo


From KEOliver@ix.netcom.com Fri Apr 14 20:20:43 EDT 1995
Article: 11127 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: KEOliver@ix.netcom.com (Kevin Oliver)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Painting Brass
Date: 10 Apr 1995 21:33:37 GMT
Organization: Netcom
Lines: 15
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3mc87h$fa0@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dfw5-04.ix.netcom.com

I need to put a semiflat, durable paint finish on brass.  The surface 
does not need to be heat resistant, but needs to be pretty hard and 
reasonably resistant to abrasion.  I would like to know about surface 
preparation, painting and post painting sealing and curing. Thanks for 
your help.
Kevin.
-- 


KEOliver@ix.netcom.com

Tasteless Attorney at Law

My law firm doesn't like me stirring up trouble, so
don't pay attention to anything I have to say.


From BOULL@agresearch.cri.nz Fri Apr 14 20:20:45 EDT 1995
Article: 11128 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!comp.vuw.ac.nz!agresearch.cri.nz!BOULL
From: BOULL@agresearch.cri.nz (Lawrence Boul)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brass pipe soldering
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 08:36:53
Organization: AgResearch,  Lincoln.
Lines: 20
Message-ID: <BOULL.109.00089D9E@agresearch.cri.nz>
References: <9504092107591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: lin042.agrlinc.cri.nz
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]




>    I don't know if this will work or not, but on small pieces of jewelry, I
>use yellow ochre(sp) on the previous solder to keep it from un-soldering.


>Hope this helps

>Carl Sutton

Carl,

What exactly is yellow ochre? - I know its a paint pigment but I guess you are 
not using watercolours.  How does it work.  I do a lot of scratchbuilding of 
models in brass, which is not unlike jewellery.  Your tip could be handy if I 
had more info.

Lawrence :-{



From 74274.213@CompuServe.COM Fri Apr 14 20:20:48 EDT 1995
Article: 11129 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news
From: John Tarrant <74274.213@CompuServe.COM>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Brake Presses
Date: 11 Apr 1995 02:05:58 GMT
Organization: via CompuServe Information Service
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <3mco66$6ih$1@mhadg.production.compuserve.com>
References: <3m1qq0$i1d@zaphod.develcon.com>

Dear Merlin,

I just ordered a 320 ton Accurpress for my shop.  Prior to 
ordering it I looked a several different makes but felt 
Accurpress would do the best job for me.  Would be happy to relay 
any info to you.

John T.


From sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Fri Apr 14 20:20:51 EDT 1995
Article: 11130 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!sorlin
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Where to get 1/32" drill bit?
Date: 11 Apr 1995 13:03:59 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <3mdunv$ln7@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: beauty.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu



Hi everybody.  Does anyone know where I can get a couple (I know
I'll break at least one) 1/32" drill bits?  Is there a mail order
place with a nice 800 number?:)  Any mail order place will do as
long as there isn't a large minimum purchase order.

I have looked at all of my local stores, and the smallest they all
carry is 1/16".  I have also looked in the dremel tool section and
can't find smaller bits.

I imagine I would need a special chuck or handle to hold this bit
too.

Thanks,

Steve


From odea56@aol.com Fri Apr 14 20:20:54 EDT 1995
Article: 11131 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: odea56@aol.com (Odea56)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tungsten
Date: 10 Apr 1995 03:23:56 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 13
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3mamec$3kh@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <Pine.SUN.3.90.950409013040.15447A-100000@menger.eecs.stevens-t
Reply-To: odea56@aol.com (Odea56)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

There are several dozen sources of tungsten.  What from do you need it in.
 Welding tungsten is the most readily avalible.  It comes in several
legnths 3". 6", 7", 12", 18".  In most parts of the country your average
wqeling supply will only stock 6 or 7 inch legnths.  These rods
(electrodes) come in >020, .040, 1.16, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 1/4 inch
diameters

You can also have almost any size or shape made using powder metalurgy. 
Sheet is also avalible.  

Email me,  I'll be happy to find you a source once you know what you want

ODEA56@AOL.COM


From odea56@aol.com Fri Apr 14 20:20:57 EDT 1995
Article: 11132 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: odea56@aol.com (Odea56)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Mo' Welder Advice
Date: 10 Apr 1995 03:24:17 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 42
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3mamf1$3kr@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <3m50r3$g60@news.icaen.uiowa.edu>
Reply-To: odea56@aol.com (Odea56)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

My memory of A "Baja Car" is mostly open tube construction with minimal
sheet metal work.  BUY the TIG.

Mig is easy to learn but hell on complicated parts/joints.  If you were
going to do a lot of sheetmetal work, body and fender stuff, the MIG would
be the best choice because of the low heat input (distortion) and the high
speed (less work on long welds)

Tig however is far more versitile.  You do not have to buy a large spool
of alloy.  You have excelent control and can esily get into tight spaces. 
You will often get a better quality weld.  (whole lot of variables here). 


Try the Miller Econotig.  It sells for anywhere between $1200 to $1600
depending on where you live.

Good luck
ODEA56@AOL.COM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Original post:
	What I am really at a loss for is the welder.  I have used a small
125v, 100 amp Mig in the past, and it will likely work for building our
rollcage and other assorted items.  I wasn't impressed with the machines,
but
this comes after using the larger Miller with a good wirefeed, and good
power.

	I have also been using a Tig here at school so far on the project,
and have really grown to like the way the welds look, and the
controllability.
The problem being is that the Tig will be more expensive, and may require
more
training to teach others how to use it effectively.  The Mig seems to be
more
of a point and shoot item.

	Any advice or ideas on who to contact for more information?

Thanks,
Matt




From USERID@InforMNs.k12.MN.US Fri Apr 14 20:20:59 EDT 1995
Article: 11133 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!InforMNs.k12.MN.us!msp82-4.nas.mr.net!user
From: USERID@InforMNs.k12.MN.US ()
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Breisch model gas engines
Followup-To: rec.crafts.metalworking
Date: 11 Apr 1995 19:29:25 GMT
Organization: Internet for Minnesota Schools Project
Lines: 13
Message-ID: <USERID-270400035104@msp82-4.nas.mr.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: msp82-4.nas.mr.net

Several requests have been posted for information on the (late) Breisch
engines.
Here is the current address.

 								Breisch/Peters
>        Jay A. Peters
>        14 Maria Lane
>        Schwenksville, PA  19473
>        (610) 287-5179
>
>To order brochure about Breisch/Peters working model Gas Engines send $1.00
>to the above address
>


From flint@uclaue.mbi.ucla.edu Fri Apr 14 20:21:01 EDT 1995
Article: 11134 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!library.ucla.edu!nnrp.info.ucla.edu!usenet
From: Flint Smith <flint@uclaue.mbi.ucla.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
Date: 11 Apr 1995 02:52:06 GMT
Organization: University of California, Los Angeles
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <3mcqsm$jro@saba.info.ucla.edu>
References: <9504051945591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com> <BOULL.103.0008BE0B@agresearch.cri.nz> <Pine.SOL.3.91.950410085205.25480C-100000-100000-100000@comp> <D6u1Mt.y8@ssbunews.ih.att.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: holmes.mbi.ucla.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1b3 (X11; I; IRIX 5.2 IP22)
To: hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com
X-URL: news:D6u1Mt.y8@ssbunews.ih.att.com

hhm@usgp4.ih.att.com (-Mayo,H.H.) wrote:
>>...
>> The only thing to avoid is causing stresses when the metal
>>cools by designing molds that have sections of rubber that are surrounded
>>by metal. 

What do you mean by this?  Does having rubber surrounded by metal cause stress
or avoid causing stress?

What do you think of the earlier post suggesting using the high temperature
"copper" RTV rubber surrounded by the regular rubber?

How do you melt your pewter?  Do you have an easy way to keep the temperature
in a range that wont destroy the mold?  I guess it would be easy to overheat
the metal used in these rubber molds.

Sure sounds like a hacker-friendly method.

Thanks,
Flint Smith  flint@uclaue.mbi.ucla.edu



From howard@perth.DIALix.oz.au Fri Apr 14 20:21:04 EDT 1995
Article: 11135 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!DIALix!not-for-mail
From: howard@perth.DIALix.oz.au (Howard Jones)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Aluminum finishing on Lathe?
Date: 7 Apr 1995 19:10:41 +0800
Organization: DIALix Services, Perth, Australia.
Lines: 23
Sender: howard@perth.DIALix.oz.au
Message-ID: <3m36jh$g2l$1@perth.DIALix.oz.au>
References: <3lvffv$4h2@crl.crl.com> <3m05i1$8ja@elvis.vnet.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: perth.dialix.oz.au
NNTP-Posting-User: howard
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

murr rhame (murr@elvis.vnet.net) wrote:
: stltrans@crl.com (Steven Marcotte) writes:

: >I'm trying to turn some automotive parts made out of cast aluminum on a 
: >Monarch Lathe.

: >I need a mirror like finish.  

: >Any good ideas about tooling??

at the risk of seeming crude.......
I get polished finishes by using a nicely finished tool in hss, using
liberal amounts of mineral turpentine as the cutting fluid.
(on aluminium using turps gets a better finish ) pay attention to the 
top rake when grinding the tool, aluminium needs a fair amount.
I dont know whether "Brasso" is marketted in the usa but it polishes 
aluminium to a very high polish.....after making everything nearby black.
I am only using the technique for small spinner nuts on model aircraft
but the polish lasts for years.
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Howard Jones, (howard@perth.dialix.oz.au)                      _--_|\
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Fri Apr 14 20:21:06 EDT 1995
Article: 11136 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!sorlin
From: sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to get 1/32" drill bit?
Date: 11 Apr 1995 20:04:46 GMT
Organization: The Ohio State University
Lines: 9
Message-ID: <3mencu$p6b@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
References: <3mdunv$ln7@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu


As to not waste space here with more followups,
I was given a tip to find small drill bits at a model train
store.  And I did.


thanks,

steve


From palama@posso.dm.unipi.it Fri Apr 14 20:21:08 EDT 1995
Article: 11137 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!maui.cc.odu.edu!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!serra.unipi.it!newsserver.unipi.it!palama
From: palama@posso.dm.unipi.it (Antonio Palama')
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: rotary phase converters
Date: 07 Apr 1995 11:25:57 GMT
Organization: Universita' di Pisa
Lines: 57
Message-ID: <PALAMA.95Apr7132557@pappo.posso.dm.unipi.it>
References: <3lsdf0$1hv@rational.rational.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pappo.dm.unipi.it
In-reply-to: davide@rational.com's message of 4 Apr 1995 21:24:48 GMT

In article <3lsdf0$1hv@rational.rational.com> 
davide@rational.com (David Erickson) writes:


   I have a few questions about rotary phase converters.  I just finished
   wiring a magnetic starter and some outlets for mine, and the electrical
   connections surprised me.  There were only three connections inside the
   box on the phase converter - is this typical?  I had expected five
   connections (2 in and 3 out).  Instead there are 2 in and 1 out.  I
   thought a phase converter was a motor generator, but all it does is
   generate the third phase.  

The phase converter you describe is, most probably, of the Ferraris-Arno
type; in August 1994 I mailed an article to this newsgroup with the references
to the theory of the method and a practical discussion of how to implement it
using an ordinary 3-phase induction motor. I do not have a copy of that posting
handy but, should someone be interested, I could repost it next week.

   So, how does this third phase relate to the 220V input?  There is no
   way that the three phases are balanced... (how could they be, since the 
   input phases are already 180 degrees apart).  How many volts will there
   be between the two input phases and the generated phase?  How will this
   vary with load (i.e., is it a bad idea to have the phase converter
   running without any load, or with a very small load in relation to its
   size)?

   I'm going to run some experiments to find out, but I'd welcome hearing
   from any EE's who could explain some of the theory here. 

   Another thing that surprised me: I opened the box on top of the phase
   converter that holds the electrical components that generate the
   third phase.  All that was inside the box were two large capacitor
   banks.  Actually, I don't know if those banks were used in generating
   the third phase or in starting the phase converter.  Any information
   that could shed some light on this would be appreciated. 

A simplified theory of the method is the following:
One can write the single phase AC voltage as the sum of two 3-phase systems
of the same voltage and rotating in opposite directions. An asyncronous
induction motor running near syncronous speed (e.g. 2950 RPM for a 2-pole
50 Hz motor) has a very high impedence for the 3-phase system rotating in
the same direction of the motor and a very low impedence for the other one.
So one of the two 3-phase systems is short circuited by the motor while the
other one is left undisturbed.
The role of the capacitor is both that of starting the phase converter and that
of improving the balancing of the output 3-phase system. In theory one should
use a specific capacitance for every load on the converter but, in practice,
a reasonable compromise can be worked out.
This method is inehrently risky for the load motor since the 3-phase system
produced by the converter is unbalanced and this can overheat the load
motor. Nevertheless I had no problem using this type of converter in my 
workshop.

Good luck.

Antonio.



From BOULL@agresearch.cri.nz Fri Apr 14 20:21:12 EDT 1995
Article: 11138 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!comp.vuw.ac.nz!agresearch.cri.nz!BOULL
From: BOULL@agresearch.cri.nz (Lawrence Boul)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 1995 08:44:29
Organization: AgResearch,  Lincoln.
Lines: 60
Message-ID: <BOULL.103.0008BE0B@agresearch.cri.nz>
References: <9504051945591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: lin042.agrlinc.cri.nz
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

In article <9504051945591.The_Win-D.carl620@delphi.com> carl620@delphi.com (Carl Sutton) writes:
>From: carl620@delphi.com (Carl Sutton)
>Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
>Date: 5 Apr 1995 23:59:39 GMT

>In article <ginger.128.000B34F9@pcm.ultranet.com>, ginger@pcm.ultranet.com
>(Ron Ginger) writes: > In article <3lj49n$5ti@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
>ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim) writes: > >From: ernieleim@aol.com (ErnieLeim)

>> >Subject: Re: Casting metal in rubber
>> >Date: 1 Apr 1995 03:53:11 -0500
>> 
>> >What are you talking about ? I have never heard of anyone pouring hot
>> >metal into a rubber mold. The rubber molds are for the replication of
>> >waxes to be used in investment casting. I can't think of any rubber that
>> >can withstand the heat of molten tin let alone bronze.
>> 
>> .......rest deleted.
>> 
>> Yes, you certainly can cast SOME metal in rubber molds. Mostly pewter and 
>> similar metas. Its widely used in the model business- like model boat kit 
>> fittings, and in some jewelery and 'craft' products.


>   Never heard of this happening in the years i've been in the jewelry
>business 


>> The rubber is supplied in sheet form, about 1/2" thick. The parts are laid out
>> on it, a parting dust applied, and another sheet of rubber placed on top. The 
>> whole sandwich is then vulcanized in a hot press.


>      Yes, and then the mold is carefully cut apart so that a negative image
>is retained.  The rubber mold is then sealed shut and wax is forced into it.
>The wax is then taken out and put in a flask where investment is poured around
>it.  The wax is then burnt out in an oven and the plaster filled with the
>desired metal.  The plaster is then quenshed and breaks apart, leaving the
>desired piece.


>> See any jewelery supply catalog for materials.

>     See most jewelry making instruction books.

> 
>> Ron Ginger

I think you are at cross purposes here.  Ron is talking of the investment or 
lost wax process which is good for precious metals and high temp allows such 
as brass etc.  The  Process for pewter that is alluded to is quite different 
and generally produces a lower quality of casting (but not much lower).  This 
is a spin casting process using Rubber moulds as described previously.  If you 
want a lot of parts it can be very economic.  Here in NZ we get a 6" radius  
(I think) rubber made for around US$35.  Pewter is c. US$8 per kilo and there 
is a per spin charge of a couple of dollars.

Both processes are comonly used for producing model railway kitsets.

Lawrence


From gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU Fri Apr 14 20:21:14 EDT 1995
Article: 11139 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!waldorf.csc.calpoly.edu!zimmer!news
From: gregl@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU (Greg Lewis)
Subject: Laser cutting question
Message-ID: <D6svz7.8u8@zimmer.CSUFresno.EDU>
Sender: Greg Lewis
Nntp-Posting-Host: zimmer.csufresno.edu
Organization: CSU Fresno
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 1995 03:49:55 GMT
Expires: Tue, 30 May 1995 07:00:00 GMT
Lines: 17


I'm having a live steamer main frame laser cut from hot rolled plate.
A friend of mine says the cutting will leave very hard edges that will
be tough to machine, yet the guy at the company that will do the
cutting says no. Anyone have experience with this? I'll need to
machine the axle slots and lands for valve gear brackets, and drill
holes here and there through the cut edges. I've set up the edges to
have .050 machining allowance. Perhaps I should allow more so the
edges can be rough ground through the hard spots before machining.
Anyone have experience with this? THANKS!

___________________________________________________________________
Greg_Lewis@csufresno.edu      	   	     They don't
Photojournalism sequence      	   	     Call this place
Department of Mass Communication   	     An institution
     and Journalism 	      	   	     For nothing
CSU Fresno, Fresno, CA 93740-0010


From af815@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Fri Apr 14 20:21:16 EDT 1995
Article: 11140 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af815
From: af815@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John Darlington)
Subject: Re: Myford ML-7 Lathe info Urgently Needed
Message-ID: <D6uLwI.L5I@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: af815@freenet3.carleton.ca (John Darlington)
Reply-To: af815@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John Darlington)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 02:07:30 GMT
Lines: 53

In a previous posting, Reg Barron (BarronR@cc.ims.disa.mil) writes:
>>   . I have picked up>  the UNIMAT DB-200 to see if I can do what I want to do 
> (mainly turn some wood>  pens & pencils, which I may not be able to do because 
> of the clearance between>  centers, unless I want to turn each half separately, then 
> I will take it back>  & try to sell it to a metalworker/modelmaker).>  
>> >  Regards,
>>  JD 
>>  
>>>>>
> I understand that Blue Ridge Machinery sells extended (extra long) way bars, so 
> you may be able to replace the original ones and have enough 
> distance between centers to do pencils etc.   However, the original Unimat
> has a distance between centers of just under 7".   The mechincal pens & pencil in 
> my pocket are about 6".  So you may still be O.K.
>
>  Reg Barron
 
Reg,
	Thanks for the info on Blue Ridge you sent via e-mail. You are right
about the between centers being 6 & 9/10". The mandrel sold at Lee Valley is
set up so that you but a bushing on it, followed by a piece of wood for the 
lower section of pen, followed by the middle bushing, then the wood piece for
the upper pen section, and then the last bushing. Facing the lathe, the left 
(plain) end of the mandrel is secured in a Morse Taper which has been put in
the headstock and the right end of the mandrel (which is threaded and has a 
washer & nut to snug up against one of the end bushings & has a bit of a 
hollow end) is held lightly by a dead center.

On the Unimat DB-200, everything is the same except there is no Morse Taper so
the mandrel is held in the headstock by a drill chuck. Consequently, there is
not enough clearance for all those pieces. What I had to do was cut off a piece
of the mandrel (plain end) and I can only turn one half of the pen/pencil at
one time. 

I am sure this sounds very primitive to all you expert turners out there, but
after not being within shouting distance of a lathe since 1960, at 5:00 PM
Eastern Daylight Time yesterday, I had turned the top and bottom parts for a
ball-point pen out of a wood called Mopane. What with supper and 60 Minutes,
etc. I didn't get it assembled until about 12:00 midnight, but I was quite
pleased with myself.

Will I keep the Unimat DB-200?                       I'm not sure yet.
Will I call Blue Ridge about extension bars?         You bet!
Did I like turning that project?                     Absolutely.
Do I have any concerns?     			     Yes. I think that if
                                                     I'm going to add these
                                                     items to my craft shows,
                                                     I have to turn both parts
                                                     at the same time to make
                                                     it worthwhile.
Regards,
JD
    


From ginger@pcm.ultranet.com Fri Apr 14 20:21:19 EDT 1995
Article: 11141 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.kreonet.re.kr!insosf1.infonet.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.duke.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!news.ultranet.com!pcm.ultranet.com!ginger
From: ginger@pcm.ultranet.com (Ron Ginger)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Is this stepper ok for CNC Sherline?
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 21:39:50 LOCAL
Organization: Pleasant Cove Models
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <ginger.132.000F654C@pcm.ultranet.com>
References: <3lsibr$lnp@sol.sun.csd.unb.ca> <3m22ep$4oa@crl10.crl.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pcm.ultranet.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4]

In article <3m22ep$4oa@crl10.crl.com> kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin) writes:
>From: kimberln@crl.com (J. Kimberlin)
>Subject: Re: Is this stepper ok for CNC Sherline?
>Date: 6 Apr 1995 17:53:45 -0700

I have a Sherline lathe with 80 oz-in steppers. 20 ohm coils, I run them at .5 
amp. very adequate power for a Sherline. Id guess the 150 oz-in would be to 
big, and the 4.5 amp sure makes the controller more money.


Ron Ginger
my signature is http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger


From dwarner@atlanta.com@atlanta.com Fri Apr 14 20:21:21 EDT 1995
Article: 11142 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!emory!metro.atlanta.com!news
From: dwarner@atlanta.com@atlanta.com
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Black (oxide?) finish on aluminum?
Date: 11 Apr 1995 03:51:33 GMT
Organization: Internet Atlanta
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <3mcuc5$97r@metro.atlanta.com>
Reply-To: dwarner@atlanta.com@atlanta.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: dwarner.atlanta.com
X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.09

Some years ago I had a small stamped aluminum tool with a flat black finish 
on it.  I discovered that this finish was extremely hard when I had to drill a
hole in it.  I seem to recall that this coating was aluminum oxide (makes 
sense, as it's used on sandpaper...)  

Anyway, is it possible to apply this surface treatment in a home shop 
situation?,  If so, how (or point me to some good reference material.

Thanks in advance.



From VBTM10A@prodigy.com Fri Apr 14 20:21:25 EDT 1995
Article: 11143 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!swiss.ans.net!prodigy.com!usenet
From: VBTM10A@prodigy.com (Dennis Wodtli)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: COMPACT 8 QUESTION
Date: 7 Apr 1995 20:02:24 GMT
Organization: Prodigy Services Company  1-800-PRODIGY
Lines: 29
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <3m45og$3ds@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>
References: <3lt7jc$nf4@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com> <3m2vs4$km2@news.xs4all.nl>
NNTP-Posting-Host: inugap4.news.prodigy.com
X-Newsreader: Version 1.2

A fellow who bought one 6 months ago says it will do 8 thru 56 TPI and 
the USA distributor says it will do 4 thru 64 TPI.  This is OK, it won't 
do every thread listed in the Machinery Handbook, but I don't use ALL of 
those threads, just the more common ones.

Know what you mean about those cheap lathes, had one for a month and 
experienced the problems.  Thought I could solve then, but when I 
discovered the spindle threads were part way between 8 TPI and 3mm, I 
gave up.  Fortunately, the company offered to refund my money, so it was 
a free education.

Thanks for the comments on the lathe, I think I' get it.



>There are cheaper lathes on the market; many are copies of the Compact 8.

>
>I am *very* glad that I purchased the original; it is a fine well made, 
solid
>(for its size) tool. I can't believe that I made do with cheap lathes 
for so
>many years... (also the resale value is probably good; I wonder about 
those
>cheaper lathes; what is the resale value of those?)
>
>John Stewart
>john@amanda.xs4all.nl



From adc@news.dorsai.org Fri Apr 14 20:21:28 EDT 1995
Article: 11144 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org!adc
From: adc@news.dorsai.org (Frank Didik)
Subject: Re: 5" grinder endorsement
Message-ID: <D6ut8v.1FL@dorsai.org>
Sender: news@dorsai.org (Keeper of the News)
Organization: The Dorsai Embassy - New York
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
References: <3m8daf$f8r@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 04:46:06 GMT
Lines: 57

The Horbor Freight 4"  "cheapo" grinder which they sell for only $29 has 
worked very well for me.   It seems to be almost the same as the Makita 
version with the metal head.

 ErnieLeim (ernieleim@aol.com) 
wrote: : I just thought I'd pass this on to anybody interested.
: I don't know how many Welder/Fabricator/Blacksmiths there are here but
: this should interest all.
: I have found that the most used tool in my shop is in fact a 4-1/2 in
: right angle grinder. I've spent days doing finish work with one with any
: number of discs or heads on it.
: I have one that is now a random orbital and another that is dedicated to a
: biscuit joiner. I have 3 more that get switched back and forth between
: Grinding wheels , cuttoff wheels , flapper -sanding discs, wire wheels,
: Scotch brite discs and sandind pads. I also have a pair of tungsten
: carbide burr discs for shaping wood very quickly.

: In the past I have always used SKIL grinders , Not that they are
: necessarily the best , but they are affordable, at $80 a piece, easily
: fixed, and fit my hand real nice. Since I've started using more aluminum I
: noticed that the increase in friction has been making my little grinders
: prettty hot.

: ( Now to the jist of my nub...so to speak....)

: Porter Cable just started selling a 5 in. grinder that I finally decided
: to try. 
: Absolutly outstanding !!!
: I don't think I've ever been so impressed with a new tool. Not only does
: it have considerably more power but is only slightly larger, and has a
: wonderful shaft lock button.
: I suspect that it is in fact a Metabo (Rolls Royce of powertools) grinder
: since it is made in Germany and bears a remarkable similarity to Metabo's
: I've used in the past. At $110 it costs about $60 less than a Metabo 5 in.
: and seems to be every bit as good.
: So, for whatever my opinion is worth, I heartily endorse this little beast
: to any in the market for a better hand grinder.

: Happy grinding

: PS It uses the now standard 5/8-11 shaft thread , so it is compatible with
: most current attachments.



: @---------------------------------------------------------@
:                     Ernie Leimkuhler                                      

:                   Stagesmith Productions                                  
:                                           
:                  Custom Metal Fabrication                                 
:                
: *    ABANA   SCA     AWS    USITT   IATSE local 15, 488   *
:                         Renton, WA                                        
:    
: *"Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" the bard  *
: @---------------------------------------------------------@


From jimkirk@uwyo.edu Fri Apr 14 20:21:34 EDT 1995
Article: 11145 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!roper.uwyo.edu!uwyo.edu!jimkirk
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Spinning stainless steel
Message-ID: <1995Apr11.165821.10070@roper.uwyo.edu>
From: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 11 Apr 95 16:58:21 MDT
Reply-To: jimkirk@uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
Sender: jimkirk@mallard.uwyo.edu (James Kirkpatrick)
References: <joubert.66.2F850B52@cc.und.ac.za> <1995Apr11.065526.1935@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us> <D6w1KB.IKL@dorsai.org>
Distribution: world
Organization: University of Wyoming
Nntp-Posting-Host: mallard.uwyo.edu
X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-24
Lines: 19


>CRS? (for us acronym impaired)

>From the FAQ:

23.  What is XYZ made of?

     3. Steels
              ...
        a. What is CRS?  Cold Rolled Steel.

        b. What is HRS?  Hot Rolled Steel.

        c. What is HSS?  High Speed Steel.

As for the annealing question, yes it's important, at least for copper,
but hopefully somebody else can address this re stainless steel.

Jim


From jmg@dorsai.org Fri Apr 14 20:21:37 EDT 1995
Article: 11146 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org!news
From: jmg@dorsai.org (Jon Gellman)
Subject: Re: Wanted: Copper Sheets
Message-ID: <D6uwGy.4A7@dorsai.org>
Sender: news@dorsai.org (Keeper of the News)
Organization: The Dorsai Embassy - New York
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #2.1
References: <8A6B55C.0261000F7C.uuout@corpsoft.com> <3m97bj$jiq@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 05:00:54 GMT
Lines: 12

copsmith@aol.com (Copsmith) wrote:
>You can get 20 or 24 oz copper at sheet metal shops. They will probably
>have some in their scrap bin. If it's not thick enough, you can sweat two
>pieces together. If it is just decorative, this will work fine.


Mcmaster-Carr Supply has a good variety by mail order, and they take credit cards.
Just sound like a big business if you aren't. Northeast location # 908-329-3200.
Their catalog has everything on the planet, really. No, REALLY.

Jon Gellman		My computer is an old testament god,
jmg@dorsai.org		lots of rules and no mercy-Joseph Campell


From kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu Fri Apr 14 20:21:40 EDT 1995
Article: 11147 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!bobcat!kinsler
From: kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu (Mark Kinsler )
Subject: slinky
X-Nntp-Posting-Host: bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
Message-ID: <D6w4zy.JpK@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
Sender: postmaster@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
X-Nntp-Posting-Date: Tue Apr 11 17:57:32 1995
Organization: Ohio University, College of Engineerng & Technology
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 21:57:34 GMT
Lines: 12

My mathematics professor has taken to fooling with a steel "Slinky" spring
toy at his desk.  We were looking at it today and the question came up:  
How are these things made?  (Prof said, "well, you'd start with a steel 
cylinder...").  The slinky consists of a flat-wound spring of fairly 
tough steel plated with what looks like cadmium.   
  I was speculating that the slinky might be made as follows: You'd start
with a round steel wire with the temper let down so it's soft.  Then wind
it into a spring and run it through rollers to give the wire a rectangular
cross-section and simultaneously work harden it to give a nice hard spring
wire.  Then you'd plate it. 
  Does anyone know if this sounds correct?  
                             M Kinsler


From Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk Fri Apr 14 20:21:45 EDT 1995
Article: 11148 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
From: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk (Charles Lamont)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sunsite.doc.ic.ac.uk!doc.news.pipex.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!abdab.demon.co.uk!Charles
Subject: Re: Tender Tank Questions
References: <3mbk8i$5pr@charnel.ecst.CSUChico.EDU>
Organization: home
Reply-To: Charles@abdab.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Newswin Alpha 0.7
Lines:  13
X-Posting-Host: abdab.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 06:47:16 +0000
Message-ID: <136543054wnr@abdab.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk


I have checked up in Martin Evans' book "Manual of Model Steam 
Locomotive Construction" and his "Highlander" design in Model 
Engineer (1967) to see what he says about ride-on tenders of this sort 
of size.  He recommends an outer shell made of 1/16" mild steel, to 
carry all the scale detail and the weight, and inside it, a 
baffled, soldered 1/16" brass tank to hold the water.

--
Charles Lamont




From kopfj@aimnet.aimnet.com Fri Apr 14 20:21:49 EDT 1995
Article: 11149 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!aimnet1.aimnet.com!usenet
From: kopfj@aimnet.aimnet.com (John O. Kopf)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Where to get 1/32" drill bit?
Date: 11 Apr 1995 23:52:42 GMT
Organization: Aimnet Information Services
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <3mf4ob$blo@aimnet1.aimnet.com>
References: <3mdunv$ln7@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dial-cup1-21.iway.aimnet.com
X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0.5@dial-cup1-21.iway.aimnet.com
X-Authenticated: kopfj on POP host aimnet.aimnet.com

In article <3mdunv$ln7@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
sorlin@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Steven J Orlin) writes:

> Hi everybody.  Does anyone know where I can get a couple (I know
> I'll break at least one) 1/32" drill bits?

Check out your local hobby store, where they are likely to have drill
bits from #61-#80.  The number 66= .033, #67 = .032, #68 = .031 -- take
your pick.  You didn't say what material you're drilling, but if soft
you can use a pin-vice; if hard you'll probably want power.  In order
to hold them in a chuck, you can wrap soft copper wire around the shank
for the chuck-jaws to "bite" into.

JK


From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Fri Apr 14 20:21:53 EDT 1995
Article: 11150 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: turning brake rotors?
Message-ID: <1995Apr11.064937.1677@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <3lndbv$3f8@news1.halcyon.com> <1995Apr7.040705.5170@acad.stedwards.edu>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 06:49:37 GMT
Lines: 78

rays@acad.stedwards.edu (Ray Spinhirne) writes:
 
>Bob Powell (bobp@coho.halcyon.com) wrote:
>: Given a lathe big enough to mount them, what's involved in "turning"
>: disc brake rotors?  Workholding tips?  Smoothness of finish surface
>: required?  Any non-obvious details?

>: I think a real "brake lathe" uses a mandrel.  By default I'd try
>: clamping each side in turn against a faceplate, probably using a
>: drawbar through the spindle since the rotor covers the entire slotted
>: area of the faceplate.  Alternately I could make a mandrel and spin it
>: between centers.  Either way the swing-over-carriage is not enough to
>: cut both sides in one mounting.

>: Also assuming it's important to get it right the first time, to remove
>: as little material as possible, while cutting deep enough to leave a
>: true surface as well as a finish surface.  So suggestion of feed, speed
>: and cutter material also appreciated.

>: thanks

>: Bob

>I did the 10 inch disks from my daughter's car on my 11 inch lathe.
>The particular model was easier than some because the disk
>were not part of the hub but simple bolted between the wheels and
>the hub.  I make a mandrel by press fitting a disk larger than the
>center of the brake disk on  to a 1.5 inch bar.  ( I used the low tech
>"hit it with the 8lb hammer" method to press the mandrel disk onto the
>bar.)  After the mandrel was together it was turned true between centers
>and the the brake disk was attached.  I had a 1.25 tap and die so the
>I simple threaded the end of the bar and made a nut to hold the disk.
>You may have to use a different arrangement depending upon the configuration
>of the brake disk.

>There was not room enough to move the carriage
>under the disk drum.  However I could turn both sides (one at a time)
>by removing the mandrel and placing the carriage first on one side
>and then the other.  The specs for this disk called for max runout
>of .003 (not too hard) but only .0008 for thickness change.  I don't
>think I could get this precise if I had to remount for the second
>cut.  

>The disk material itself is some sort of cast and it turns very
>easyly.  I took light cuts and finished up with the slowest feed available.
>Even so this produced a surface like a phonograph record and the
>brakes went "thump thump thump" as the pads moved (in or out ) radially
>on the drums for the first few stops.  I remembered later having
>seen something on one of those "fix you car yourself" TV shows that
>it was recommended to run a sander (or grinder?) lightly over the
>disk after turning to avoid this problem.  I don't think that with the
>very light cuts I made this was a real problem.  It actually took me
>longer to design and make the mandrel than it did to turn the disks.
> 
>Given that the dealer wanted $400 for the job and the replacement pads
>cost less that $100 for all 4 wheels I thing it was worth the weekend
>time I spent.  (Beside it was a good excuse to get my daughter to
>help me in the shop.)

>I think that if you are reasonably careful you could do a safe job 
>yourself.  The typical person I see working in the brake section of
>a repair shop doesn't exactly inspire confidence in having it
>done by a "professional".  A repair manual on the particular
>model involved would be a good investment.

>Have fun and good luck.

>Ray Spinhirne
>Director Computer Services
>St. Edward's University

The commercial "lathes" for disk truning has dual tools and an
even cut is made on both sides of the disc at the same time.  The
disc itself is mounted on a mandril with a slight taper as a forcing
cone if this is of any help....
-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us Fri Apr 14 20:21:55 EDT 1995
Article: 11151 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!grian!barry
From: barry@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us (Barry Workman)
Subject: Re: Spinning stainless steel
Message-ID: <1995Apr11.065526.1935@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
Organization: College Park Software, Altadena, CA
References: <joubert.66.2F850B52@cc.und.ac.za>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 1995 06:55:26 GMT
Lines: 24

joubert@cc.und.ac.za (Pierre Joubert) writes:


>Hi all ,

>I would like to spin some stainless steel @ 1mm thick.
>Does anybody know the process as I would like to do
>it the right way but at home on my lathe. I would also like to
>know what tool I should use to press the steel onto the mould.
>Do I heat the steel first ? Any help with this would be greatly 
>appreciated.

>Thanks 
>Pierre

Most metal spinning tools can be made from CRS.  Polish the working
end as best you can -- I have mirror finishes on my "good" tools --
and use a good bar soap for a lube.  Realize that you will get some
streaching of the metal as you spin it.  SS is harder to work than
other metals but practice in aluminum, copper, or brass will teach
you a lot.
-- 
    - Barry Workman 



From chrsgson@deepcove.com Fri Apr 14 20:21:56 EDT 1995
Article: 11152 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!scipio.cyberstore.ca!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!Kaos.deepcove.com!Kaos.deepcove.com!not-for-mail
From: chrsgson@deepcove.com (Chris Youngson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Electro-Stripping
Date: 29 Mar 1995 11:19:40 -0800
Organization: DeepCove BBS
Lines: 5
Message-ID: <3lcbsc$2gp@Kaos.deepcove.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.deepcove.com
X-Newsreader: NN version 6.5.0 #6 (NOV)


There is a company in my city that use electrolysis to remove rust, etc. 
from steel car parts and like. Is this process doable in the home shop? 
what chemicals, etc. are necessary? Any suggestion would help. Thanx 
73 DE VE7CST


From chrsgson@deepcove.com Fri Apr 14 20:22:00 EDT 1995
Article: 11153 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!scipio.cyberstore.ca!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!Kaos.deepcove.com!Kaos.deepcove.com!not-for-mail
From: chrsgson@deepcove.com (Chris Youngson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Ultrasonic cleaning
Date: 29 Mar 1995 11:26:14 -0800
Organization: DeepCove BBS
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <3lcc8m$2tv@Kaos.deepcove.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.deepcove.com
X-Newsreader: NN version 6.5.0 #6 (NOV)


Does anyone have any suggestions on building an ultrasonic cleaner, such 
as those used by gunsmiths, etc? How would you go about building the 
oscillator? Thanx 73 DE VE7CST


From chrsgson@deepcove.com Fri Apr 14 20:22:03 EDT 1995
Article: 11154 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!scipio.cyberstore.ca!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!Kaos.deepcove.com!Kaos.deepcove.com!not-for-mail
From: chrsgson@deepcove.com (Chris Youngson)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Industrial Footage
Date: 29 Mar 1995 11:32:32 -0800
Organization: DeepCove BBS
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <3lcckg$3ag@Kaos.deepcove.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost.deepcove.com
X-Newsreader: NN version 6.5.0 #6 (NOV)


I am looking for a source for industrial film footage from the first half 
of this century. WWII aircraft production, arsenals, Singer, Ford, South 
Bend, you name it. Also pictures. Can also be foriegn. 73 DE VE7CST


From BarronR@cc.ims.disa.mil Fri Apr 14 20:22:05 EDT 1995
Article: 11155 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.interserv.net!usenet
From: BarronR@cc.ims.disa.mil(Reg Barron)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Myford ML-7 Lathe info Urgently Needed
Date: 10 Apr 1995 11:55:03 GMT
Organization: InterServ News Service
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <3mb6an$bm8@data.interserv.net>
References: <D6rs9M.3G0@freenet.carleton.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 164.117.162.111
X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.)

>   . I have picked up>  the UNIMAT DB-200 to see if I can do what I want to do 
(mainly turn some wood>  pens & pencils, which I may not be able to do because 
of the clearance between>  centers, unless I want to turn each half separately, then 
I will take it back>  & try to sell it to a metalworker/modelmaker).>  
> >  Regards,
>  JD 
>  
>>>>
I understand that Blue Ridge Machinery sells extended (extra long) way bars, so 
you may be able to replace the original ones and have enough 
distance between centers to do pencils etc.   However, the original Unimat
has a distance between centers of just under 7".   The mechincal pens & pencil in 
my pocket are about 6".  So you may still be O.K.

                                                                                         Reg Barron



From mrducati@aol.com Fri Apr 14 20:22:07 EDT 1995
Article: 11156 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: mrducati@aol.com (MrDucati)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Plans for plastic injection molding machine
Date: 12 Apr 1995 01:17:56 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 11
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3mfnq4$b07@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
References: <arlenac-0504952336550001@blv-pm5-ip3.halcyon.com>
Reply-To: mrducati@aol.com (MrDucati)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

Arlen,

I've seen a commercial drill press mounted injection press, I think it's
in a catalog buried somewhere in my garage.

For anyone interested, I got the address for the Morgan press.

Morgan Industries, Inc.
3311 East 59th St.
Long Beach, CA  90805
1-800-222-6929


From joubert@cc.und.ac.za Fri Apr 14 20:22:10 EDT 1995
Article: 11157 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.alpha.net!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ee.und.ac.za!nntp.und.ac.za!cc.und.ac.za!joubert
From: joubert@cc.und.ac.za (Pierre Joubert)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: test don't read
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 1995 13:45:35 GMT
Organization: University Of Natal (Durban)
Lines: 8
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <joubert.69.2F89367F@cc.und.ac.za>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 146.230.64.100
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

test test test


Pierre Joubert
University of Natal
South Africa
E-mail: joubert@cc.und.ac.za



From coristew@uoguelph.ca Fri Apr 14 20:22:12 EDT 1995
Article: 11158 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!ccshst05.cs.uoguelph.ca!ccshst01.cs.uoguelph.ca!coristew
From: coristew@uoguelph.ca (Cori Stewart)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rubber Mold Directions
Date: 11 Apr 1995 14:15:26 GMT
Organization: University of Guelph
Lines: 122
Message-ID: <3me2tu$gep@ccshst05.cs.uoguelph.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ccshst01.cs.uoguelph.ca
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

By popular demand (from email I've been sent) I will post the complete 
directions I was given for making rubber molds for casting pewter or 
other metals which melt at a similar temperature:

Materials needed:

  Permatex RTV "copper" high temperature caulking (comes in a tube @ $8)
  vaseline
  mineral spirits
  normal indoor/outdoor clear caulking
  plaster of paris
  plasticine

Proviso: PLease understand that I havent completed a full process yet, 
and at a point I will be simply quoting the man that gave me the 
instructions.  Also, this method is from my perspective, casting pendants 
which are flat backed.  this method can be easily adapted for small 
scultures etc...

Method:

1. Find a vessel suitable for casting.  The vessel should have straight 
sides so that you can remove one half of the mold, turn it upside down 
and put it back into the vessel to cast the other half.  I have cut the 
bottom off of a plastic bottle, so I have a round vessel, whose 
cross-section looks roughly like this:
                                       |               |
                                       |               |
                                       |               |
                                       |               |
                                       |               |
                                       \_______________/

If you can find a square vessel (shouldnt be hard, i  just didnt have the 
patience to look beyond home) all the better, because then you can stand 
your mold up when casting with no need to prop it.

2. EMbed about 2mm of the flat back of your original (my originals are made 
of a polymer clay ... brandname: FIMO) into plasticine.  Remember to also 
embed a spru and funnel at the top touching the side of the vessel

     |               |               ----------
     |               |             /     \/     \
     |               |            /      ||      \
     |               |           |      -  -      |
     |___--^-~--_____|           |    /      \    |
     |   -------     |           |   |        |   |
     \_______________/            \   \      /   /
                                   \    ----    /
                                     ----------
3. Using an old paint brush, mix a small portion of vaseline and mineral 
spirits in a 50/50 ration, to get a kind of mucous-like (yuck) 
consistency.  Paint this, thinly on all surfaces you will apply the 
rubber: on the original (in all nooks and crannies) and over the 
plasticine and sprue.  You dont need t opaint the sides of the vessel, 
but it may help if you wish to be diligent.

4. Again, using an old paint brush, brush the high temperature caulking onto 
your original and the plasticine and the sprue in a THIN coat.  You 
should still be able to see some detail on your original, even though 
much of it will be masked.  Let this cure for four hours.

5. Brush on a thick coat of the high temperature caulking.  You should at 
this point be able to see no detail, just a blob covered with caulking.  
Let this cure overnight.

6. Brush on another thick coat if you think it necessary and let this 
cure throughout the day (or overnight whatever).

7. Using a caulking gun, pump in a load of indoor/outdoor caulking, 
filling the vessel all around the original and the sprue, until you are 
satisfied.  Let this cure overnight.
     |               |
     |               |
     |---------------|
     |___--^-~--_____|
     |   -------     |
     \_______________/

8. Take the whole concoction out of the vessel and remove the pasticine.  
Be careful not to remove the original from the rubber. Fill the bottom of 
the vessel with plaster of paris and let set overnight.

9. Put a small amount of indoor/outdoor caulking into the vessel, 
covering the dried paster of paris so there will be a bond between the 
dried silicon and the paster.  Turn your silicon rubber & original mass 
upside down and place it into the vessel as shown below.
     |               |
     |               |
     |____-------____|
     |    --=-v--    |
     |_______________|
     \_______________/

10. Repeat the steps 3-7 on the underside of the original.  Make sure 
that your sprue and funnel are still in place.  You may have to do some 
build up with plasticine or other found-things to make this (I should 
havementioned this before, but since you are diligent and reading this 
whole thing before you try it, things should work out just fine right?)

11. Let the whole thing cure for FOUR DAYS.

12. Take it apart and inspect your mold.  You may wish to build up the 
funnel more with the indoor/outdoor caulking.  It doesnt matter if the 
hot metal touches the indoor/outdoor caulking, its just that if you used 
it for the mold itself, you would lose detail very quickly casting after 
casting, because it is a lower grade of caulking.

You may also cut any of the silicon (indoor/outdoor and high temperature 
alike) with Xacto tools if you need to augment your sprues or funnels, or 
if you need to make air ducts in your mold in difficult places.

Note About Plaster:  This is to help the rubber hold it's shape.  If you 
really want, you could devise a way to cover the whole thing with a 
plaster shell.  I dont know how necessary this is, I've only theorized.  
You see, I really havent got past step 8.

This really is all I know.  You'll have to post questions about this here 
to the experts.

T. Shawn Johnson
(using Cori's account)


From ifjad@orion.alaska.edu Fri Apr 14 20:22:14 EDT 1995
Article: 11159 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!news.alaska.edu!orion.alaska.edu!ifjad
From: ifjad@orion.alaska.edu
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Wanted:ENCO MAIER CNC5 to buy
Date: 11 Apr 95 22:43:34 AST
Organization: University of Alaska
Lines: 4
Message-ID: <1995Apr11.224334.1@orion.alaska.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.alaska.edu

Wanted: used ENCO MAIER CNC5 w/software in good working condition. For serious
offers or information on such equiptment please send email to:
IFJAD@ORION.ALASKA.EDU. 
Thank You. Joe Davis


From bobp@chinook.halcyon.com Fri Apr 14 20:22:15 EDT 1995
Article: 11160 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!nwnexus!news1.halcyon.com!chinook!bobp
From: bobp@chinook.halcyon.com (Bob Powell)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: turning brake rotors?
Date: 12 Apr 1995 06:27:58 GMT
Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc.
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <3mfrte$fc@news1.halcyon.com>
References: <3lndbv$3f8@news1.halcyon.com> <1995Apr7.040705.5170@acad.stedwards.edu> <1995Apr11.064937.1677@grian.cps.altadena.ca.us>
NNTP-Posting-Host: chinook.halcyon.com


Thanks for the various follow-ups to my original query
about turning brake rotors on a home-shop lathe.

As for my subsequent experience ... I quickly determined the
rotors were already too thin to turn.  But more significantly,
it was apparent that the wheel hubs were warped and/or out
of round, and that may have caused some of the brake problems.

As an experiment, I made a pair of cone mandrels and chucked
the wheel hubs on the bearing cupss.  Was then able to indicate
on the hub flange and verify a slight warp.  Successfully
cut about .003" from both sides of the hub flange, and would
have put it all back together (with new rotors) but then 
decided the hubs were too trashed to be worth wasting the
$$ for new rotors and wheel bearings on.  Still, had a lot
of fun doing the setup for that, new territory for me.

BTW, pretty sure the hubs as well as the rotors were simple,
if high quality, cast iron.

Bob


From youngj@foodsci.purdue.edu Fri Apr 14 20:22:17 EDT 1995
Article: 11161 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!wizard.pn.com!mozo.cc.purdue.edu!news
From: John Young <youngj@foodsci.purdue.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Tender Tank Questions
Date: 11 Apr 1995 14:13:05 GMT
Organization: Purdue University
Lines: 14
Message-ID: <3me2ph$f9q@mozo.cc.purdue.edu>
References: <3mbk8i$5pr@charnel.ecst.CSUChico.EDU>
NNTP-Posting-Host: fspc41.foodsci.purdue.edu

jjohnson@oavax.csuchico.edu (JOHN JOHNSON) wrote:
>
> I have some questions about the fabrication of the tender water tank on my live
> steam locomotive. 
>
> [Stuff Deleted]
My 1 1/2" live steam tender tank was made by another person 
(He would make one for you, I think).
I weigh 275 pounds and I ride on it with no problems. It has a frame
made from steel angle iron with steel plates riveted or screwed on.
 It is leak-proofed by a coating inside which is designed to
be used in the gas tanks of antique cars. It is white in color and
works quite well. If you would like more information, e-mail me.



From palama@posso.dm.unipi.it Fri Apr 14 20:22:18 EDT 1995
Article: 11162 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!serra.unipi.it!newsserver.unipi.it!palama
From: palama@posso.dm.unipi.it (Antonio Palama')
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Rotary phase converters
Date: 12 Apr 1995 06:56:46 GMT
Organization: Universita' di Pisa
Lines: 92
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <PALAMA.95Apr12085646@pappo.posso.dm.unipi.it>
NNTP-Posting-Host: pappo.dm.unipi.it

This is a reposting of an article which I mailed to this newsgroup
in august 1994.
------------------------------------------------------------------

There have recently been some questions in this newsgroup about 
the conversion of single phase to 3-phase power and specifically 
about the use of an asyncronous induction motor as a phase 
converter. I have been using this conversion technique for a 
long time in my workshop where my lathe, shaper and drill press 
have retained their original 3-phase motors and are powered by a 
single conversion system.

This conversion technique is known in the electrical literature 
as "Ferraris-Arno Conversion". The best theoretical analysis I 
know of this subject is in:

BROWN J.E., and RUSSELL L.R.: "Symmetrical-component analysis 
applied to phase convertors of the Ferraris-Arno type" 
Proceedings I.E.E. Paper no. 2704 U Oct. 1958 (105 A, p. 538).
Reading requires some electrical engineering background.

For the practical point of view, here is a description of what I 
did in my workshop where 220 V 50 Hz power is available.

1) I found an old induction motor at the local junk yard whose 
rated power was close to the power of the machine's induction 
motor (work motor). This motor was used as the converter (pilot 
motor). 

2) I connected both the work and the pilot motor windings so that 
the rated 3-phase voltage (hot wire to hot wire) was 220 V.

3) I wired the motors in the following way:
Let R,S,T be the leads of the pilot motor and X,Y,Z the work 
motor's ones. 
I connected R,S to the power mains through a single phase (2 wires) 
switch S1. 
I connected a tentative capacitance (about 50 microF) across S 
and T. This capacitance was made up by connecting capacitors in 
parallel; the capacitors were old, single-phase motor, NON 
ELECTROLYTIC startup capacitors; their voltage rating was above 
400 V AC.
I connected R,S,T to X,Y,Z through a 3-phase (3 wires) switch S2, 
as such I used the normal machine switch.

4) I tested the start-up of the pilot motor:
With S2 OPEN I closed S1 and verified that the pilot motor 
started and reached synchronous speed in a short time. When it 
didn't start or the run-up time was too long I increased the 
capacitance.

5) I tested the start-up of the work motor:
With S1 closed and the pilot motor running, I closed S2 and 
observed the start-up of the work motor. I exchanged any 2 of 
X,Y,Z when the work motor started in the wrong direction. In all 
my experiences the work motor started without problems and with a 
good starting torque.

6) I measured the unbalance of the work motor currents:
I used a clamp AC ampere meter to measure the currents in leads 
X,Y,Z. Unbalance could also be measured through the voltages 
X-Y, Y-Z, Z-X but this was a measure much less sensitive than the 
above.

7) I fine tuned the capacitance:
I experimented with different capacitors connected in parallel 
to the start-up ones with the work motor running at average load 
and with the aim of reducing the unbalance to a minimum i.e. making 
the currents in leads X,Y,Z as equal to each other as possible. This 
usually required a substantial increase of the capacitance above what 
was required for the pilot motor's start-up. Typical best balanced 
currents were in the ratio 4:4:5. In my workshop I had to compromise a 
little in this fine tuning since a single pilot motor had to serve 3 
different work motors.

8) When I operate my machines I close S1 first and, once the 
pilot motor has reached synchronous speed, I close S2. One WRONG 
procedure that could seriously overload both motors and which I 
am very careful to avoid is to close S2 first and S1 second.

9) I never asked the work motor to deliver full rated power 
for a long time. The unavoidable unbalance in the work motor 
currents implies overheating and hence reduction of the available 
maximum power. Being afraid of burning my motors, I use to 
monitor their temperature during operation.

This summarizes my experience, the technique worked for me but 
it is not risk-less. If you decide to give it a try use your own 
judgment and do it at your own risk.

Ciao Antonio.



From frisbie@flying-disk.com Fri Apr 14 20:22:20 EDT 1995
Article: 11163 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!nntp-hub2.barrnet.net!nntp-sc.barrnet.net!news.fujitsu.com!amdahl.com!amd!netcomsv!uucp3.netcom.com!flying!frisbie
From: frisbie@flying-disk.com (Alan Frisbie)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: rotary phase converters
Message-ID: <1995Apr11.141346.497@flying-disk.com>
Date: 11 Apr 95 14:13:46 PDT
References: <3lsdf0$1hv@rational.rational.com>
Organization: Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
Lines: 27

In article <3lsdf0$1hv@rational.rational.com>, 
davide@rational.com (David Erickson) writes:

> I have a few questions about rotary phase converters.  

Call GWM Corporation (see below) and ask for a copy of
their booklet, "Understanding and Selecting a Phase Converter".
While it *is* a sales tool and will try to steer you towards
their higher-end models, it does do a decent job of explaining
how phase converters work.    You will also get a selection
of sales literature, but that is educational as well.

        GWM Corporation (Gerhard Werner Motorwerke)
        P.O. Box 705
        Peculiar, MO 64078

        816-380-7247 (Voice)
        816-887-3889 (FAX)
        800-437-4273 (Voice)

When I retire, I hope I can find a place to move to with
as good a name as "Peculiar".   :-)

--  Alan E. Frisbie               Frisbie@Flying-Disk.Com
--  Flying Disk Systems, Inc.
--  4759 Round Top Drive          (213) 256-2575 (voice)
--  Los Angeles, CA 90065         (213) 258-3585 (FAX)


From richtw@cyberspace.com Fri Apr 14 20:22:22 EDT 1995
Article: 11164 of rec.crafts.metalworking
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!pirates!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!hookup!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!cyberspace.com!cyberspace.com!not-for-mail
From: richtw@cyberspace.com (Richard T Wurdack)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: slinky
Date: 12 Apr 1995 00:13:43 -0700
Organization: C y b e r S p a c e - (206) 505-5577
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <3mfuj7$5jl@case.cyberspace.com>
References: <D6w4zy.JpK@boss.cs.ohiou.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: case.cyberspace.com
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Mark Kinsler (kinsler@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu) wrote:
:   I was speculating that the slinky might be made as follows: You'd start
: with a round steel wire with the temper let down so it's soft.  Then wind
: it into a spring and run it through rollers to give the wire a rectangular
: cross-section and simultaneously work harden it to give a nice hard spring
: wire.  Then you'd plate it. 
:   Does anyone know if this sounds correct?  

That sounds like it woul