Subject: Re: Cutting a taper hole.

From: [email-masked] (James Kirkpatrick)
Date: 10 Aug 95 11:06:42 MDT

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] (Rick Cook) writes:
|>James Kirkpatrick wrote:
|>>Hard to be precise without actually seeing the parts, your lathe, your
|>>tools, etc.  Hope this helps!
|>>
|>What  about just fabricating a reamer with the appropiate taper?
|>
|>--RC

I'm speculating here, and digging out stuff I've read, but the
applicability of a taper reamer depends on many factors such as the
rate of taper.  For Morse, as an example, I've seen roughing and
finishing reamers which implies you would need to make two reamers
(maybe you could get by with one but I believe shallow taper reamers
may be subject to sticking (that's their job) and breaking the tool).
Blunt tapers might need to remove lots of material at one end, a job
reamers are not designed to do (may be OK for a one-off job).

And, making a reamer is more work than just chucking the part and boring
via the compound *if that will work.*

If the material is particularly hard, a reamer may not work well
no matter what.

Like I said, "Hard to be precise without actually seeing the parts,
your lathe, your tools, etc."

I'd be interested to hear the final solution, though.

Jim

---

From: [email-masked] (Tony Dathan)
Date: 12 Aug 1995 04:17:31 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, 
[email-masked] says...
>
>I don't know if I have my terms right but..
>
>I need to cut a tapered hole.  The taper I'm trying to cut if for a tie 
rod 
>end.  I will mesure the exact taper angle of the tie rod end tonight.  
What 
>I'm looking for is a idea of the kind of tool needed to cut this kind of 
hole.
>The hole needs to be cut into the spinde control arm.  I have both a 
mill and 
>a lathe to work with.
>Marc Davis
>Marc Davis

Marc,

I've had to do this job before! I had a grinding shop grind the taper on 
a prentice drill to match the taper of the ball joint. This eliminates 
the need for you to measure the taper and you can check the taper with 
bluing on the old joint. Also have them grind back the rake angles so the 
drill does not dig in and acts more like a reamer. Go slow and good luck!

Tony.