Subject: Tablesaws : Delta Contractor vs. Unisaw

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 01:32:30 -0600

First of all, let me relate to you my sad story. I have been struggling
for  several years with a low cost direct drive tablesaw. I have reached
the end of line with it, in so far as it is very difficult to get good
precision or accuracy out of this saw.

So now I am considering moving up. I have read the recent comparison of
"Contractor" saws in FWW 4/97 issue, but was left with the nagging
question as to how  good are these saws.

I realize that a the Unisaw is the standard here for most people. How
close can a contractor saw, such as the Delta 36-440, come to the Unisaw
in terms of accuracy and repeatability?

And how good are these saws for general woodworking, like cutting tenons,
ripping, etc?

Responses of any kind will be appreciated!

Bill

-------------------==== Posted via Deja News ====-----------------------
      http://www.dejanews.com/     Search, Read, Post to Usenet

---

From: [email-masked] (John Paquay)
Date: 28 Mar 1997 16:15:19 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] says...
>Responses of any kind will be appreciated!

Bill:
Since you've been through DejaNews, you've probably noted that
this is a long, wide, deep subject, and I empathize with your dilemma.

I've always had a Unisaw in my shop here at the University, and they
are in a class all their own.  When I finally had a chance to start
setting up a real shop at home, I bought a used Delta/Rockwell
contractor's saw (which was a complete mess, but the price was right...).
I spent the better part of a week getting the thing rehabbed, removing
rust, lubing, adjusting, all that sort of stuff, and found that while they're
not Unisaws, the overall design is quite similar, and they're well made --
well enough that I used that contractor's saw for about 7 years, and
made some very nice pieces with it. I replaced it a month ago with a
new Unisaw.

I may be oddly biased, being in the position of using both the Unisaw
and the contractor's saw in the same day, and having used both very
extensively, so I was always acutely aware of the differences between
the machines, and the limitations of the CS.  But if I had not had
the Unisaw to use as a benchmark, I may have never known how
different, as well as how similar, they are.  John Hofstad-Parkhill
points out very succinctly in another current thread that they both
cut wood.  It's pretty hard to argue with that.

The Unisaw does it better -- how much better is a matter of
some debate, but in my mind, the difference is huge.  The Unisaw
being so much bigger, heavier, and more accurately machined,
setup is a breeze, because your references (like the table top,
when setting a dado depth) are so much more reliable.  It also
runs much more smoothly, more quietly, and with far less vibration,
which are important factors to consider when you spend a lot of
time at the saw.  And if you want to cut thick hardwoods accurately,
the Unisaw has plenty of power, while the CS has definite limits.

But you can certainly do very high quality work using the CS.
It's fussier about getting things set up right.  It's more apt to
waver from those settings during use.  The arbor will have looser
tolerances for runout, so your jointer or handplaning skills become
more important.  It's power limitations are something to keep in
mind, although it has enough power to cut just about any 3/4"
hardwood you throw at it without complaining too much.  They
are built well, and will either take considerable abuse or perform
reliably for many, many years if cared for.  But, as in most
things, you get what you pay for.  The best analogy I can think
of is comparing a Ford Escort to a Lincoln, or a Beretta to a
Corvette -- or a Dodge Ram to a Dump Truck.

The fence upgrade options are definitely worth the price, and
give you pretty much the same benefits with either saw.

-- 
John Paquay
[email-masked],  [email-masked]
http://www.physics.purdue.edu/~jep/cshop.html
----------------------------------------------------
Without my wings you know I'd surely die...
            --Kansas, Icarus (Wings of Steel)
----------------------------------------------------

---

From: [email-masked] (JLHargr)
Date: 28 Mar 1997 18:48:33 GMT

Bill,

The step up from a direct drive saw to a contractor saw is great!  I have
a Delta contractor saw that is about 8 years old and it is in excellent
working order despite several move and being mishandled (dropped actually)
at the hands of a moving company.  

The saw is bone stock and will suit me just fine 'til I make my second
million and can afford a Unisaw to go with it.  The first million?  Oh, I
had to give up on ever making that. 

Regards,
Red

---

From: "John Hofstad-Parkhill" <[email-masked]>
Date: 29 Mar 1997 04:10:50 GMT

I had the 34-444, have the PM66

> in terms of accuracy and repeatability?

Very close indeed. I was able to mill onion skin shavings off the 34-444
with unifence with ease. The unifence is very good.

> And how good are these saws for general woodworking, like cutting tenons,

Excellent. 

The real difference I find between the two is the seemingly limitless power
of the 3hp motor and the smooth operation. Even with 4/4 (s2s) the 34-444
would slow down. This due to things like case hardening. With a good rip
blade, I've milled 8/4 red oak, slow but sure. The PM66 just finished going
through some 12/4 maple with ease. Now you may say that you don't forsee
yourself milling 8/4 or 12/4 stock. I said that too, a few years ago.

When you price one out, add in (as automatic) a link-belt and pully upgrade
($50). Also spend some $ on good blades, in ascending order Freud, CMT, and
Forrest.

When I got the 34-444 I opted for the 30" fence. I again figured that I'd
not need the extra reach. I was wrong, more times than I can count I ran
out of reach. Depends on the type of work you'll be doing of course, but
the footprint of a 50" fence isn't all that much to give up.

---

From: [email-masked] (Dory Joe)
Date: 31 Mar 1997 16:21:04 GMT

Like many woodworkers, I started with the contractors saw, and it is the
best saw for the money.  If you want to move up to a higher quality level,
there are now options other than the Unisaw.  For many years I hungered
for the Unisaw, but just could not justify the price difference.  Recently
I have noticed that Jet saws have been getting favorable press including
many in this group.  I resisted because I figured, just another knock off
>from  those guys "over there".  I was wrong.  After agonizing many months,
I bought the 2hp Jet cabinet saw.  I caught it on sale, and got the saw
with standard fence for under $900.00 with the Jet $40.00 rebate.  I
couldn't be happier!  The saw is smooth, quiet and cuts like a dream.  The
finish and fit are in my opinion just as good as Delta, and I have always
been a Delta man and have a shop full of their tools.  

Another reason to stretch for the cabinet saw is the advantage of dust
collection.  Eventually most people make this move.  Trying to efficiently
remove dust from a contractor say is futile.  All of us have tried, none
very successfuly.  The cabinet saw makes it possible.  Just some grist for
your mill.  Good luck, Joe

---

From: [email-masked] (Garrett Lambert)
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:14:16 GMT

No disagreement with your satisfaction with the Jet cabinet saw, but
don't compare it to a Unisaw. They are two very different machines.

Let me quote from a response I made a few weeks ago to a similar
misconception: 

Delta has three distinct consumer product lines (there are some larger
production models, as well): the contractor's saw, the cabinet saw,
and the unisaw. So does Jet.

The "10" Tilting Arbor Saw" or "cabinet saw" offered by Delta (model
36-755) is, in fact, mechanically and electrically closer to a
contractor's saw (34-444)  than to the Unisaw (34-763) which it
resembles in appearance only. 

The trunnions are the same as the contractor's - tube steel plus
narrow castings -  which are hung from the saw table. The Unisaw's
trunnions are more massive  castings - no tubes -  and are very wide
in order to be hung from the cabinet. 

The cabinet saw's motor is rated at 2 HP with a single V-belt, and the
contractor's at 1.5 HP with a single V-belt, whereas the Unisaw is
available with 3-5 HP motors, all of which come with 3 V-belts. 

However, the cabinet saw does have cast extension wings, a Unisaw-like
base cabinet, and the motor is suspended below the trunnions. The
contractor's saw has pressed steel extension tables, an open stand,
and the motor hangs out the back.

Now, if anyone can figure out the logic of Delta's product numbers, we
could start another thread.