Subject: Setting TS Rip Fence

From: "G. Vaughn" <[email-masked]>
Date: 1 Apr 1997 23:07:19 GMT

A friend and fellow woodworker (an ol' timer) once showed me how to set a
table saw fence for less bind or kickback.  After getting the arbor (blade)
parallel to the miter slots and setting the miter gauge accurately to 90
degrees, you set the rip fence so that it is approximately .002 wide at the
back of the table with respect to the front edge of the table.  In other
words, the trailing edge of the fence has a little clearance with respect
to the front edge.  I use a feeler gauge to set this offset from a  piece
of wood clamped to the miter gauge.

I recently purchased a Jet table saw to replace my 35 year old Craftsman
(actually I kept my old saw -- couldn't bring myself to part company with
an old friend).  I initially set up the saw per instructions, but after a
few cuts reset the fence with a little clearance.  Much better.

Any one else set their fence this way?

Ken Vaughn

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From: "Thomas G.Cavanagh" <[email-masked]>
Date: 2 Apr 1997 03:27:14 GMT

Yeah Ken it works for me.

G. Vaughn <[email-masked]> wrote in article
<01bc3ef2$34faf140$c60162cc@pentium100>...

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From: Robert Krecak <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 22:45:33 +0000

> Any one else set their fence this way?
Ken,
Absolutely!!! This is the method Forrest recommends with their blades. 
I'm using a Paralok rip fence on a Unisaw with a Forrest blade and a
custom made aluminum plate zero clearance insert like Norm Abrahm's. The
cuts are absolutely flawless on plywood across the grain. Opening the
fence 2-3 thousandths almost completely stops any burning on hardwoods.
Just be sure to remember to reset the rip fence if you put it on the
other side of the blade or you will have a potentially dangerous
kickback situation on your hands.

Bob Krecak