Subject: Countertop cutting board inlay

From: [email-masked] (Rod B. Nussbaumer)
Date: 1 Apr 1997 23:18:02 GMT

Dear WouldWurkers:

I am planning to build a new kitchen countertop, and would like some 
advice on an idea I have.  The countertop will be a particle board or 
plywood substrate, with laminate top, and hardwood edging.  What I 
would also like is a hardwood (maple) cutting board inlaid into the 
counter. I am thinking the inlay should sit about 1/8" proud of the 
surrounding laminate. 

I am concerned that there are some serious problems with this plan.  
The two main problems that I see are:

1. The problem of sealing the joint between the wood and the countertop 
   substrate, to prevent water migrating in and destroying the substrate.

2. The problem of cross grain expansion of the inlay, within it's cutout.

The first problem I see as a matter of selecting the correct adhesive/
filler to mount the inlay in.  In addition, I have considered the 
possibility of inlaying a sub-substrate of solid wood, within the 
countertop.  The joint between this piece and the particle board/plywood 
substrate would be entirely concealed by the top layer of laminate.  The 
exposed inlay would then be mounted to that.

The second problem I can see a possible solution to, by first 
manufacturing the cutting board, probably an endgrain-up design, 
and then pre-saturate it in mineral oil, with the intention of having 
maximally expanded at installation.  Moisture content should probably 
be maintained by day to day use, supplemented by occasional oil 
treatments, as necessary.

An alternative solution to the expansion problem would be to use a kind 
of raised panel design, if I could think of a way to do it without 
having any kind of exposed groove or channel to collect food and glop.  
Another thought is to inlay it on three sides only, with the front edge 
exposed at the counter edge, thus allowing it to expand beyond the counter 
edge.

I am looking for some opinions on this plan; particularly solutions to 
the problems I've already thought of, and other problems I haven't 
thought of.  Perhaps this is a seriously bad idea, and should be just 
abandoned altogether.

Thanks in advance, folks.

        ---   rod.

-- 

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 Rod Nussbaumer, Programmer/Technologist     Internet: [email-masked]  
 TRIUMF --- University of British Columbia,     Phone: (604)222-7449
 Vancouver, BC, Canada.                           FAX: (604)222-7307
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From: [email-masked] (Trevor Galvin)
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 00:55:54 GMT

It's not a bad idea. I'd  go a bit furthur and have a scrap chute to
scrape of the discards into a bin built in. I'm not too fond of
garbage disposals. I'd formica the edges of the cut out for the board.
I'd want it to be able to be pulled out for sanding down or flipping
over so I'd have it resting on a ledge. As far as sealing the gap and
expansion I'd think on the lines of "O" ring material. I'd definately
go end grain exposure. I'd mix and match hardwood blocks using hard
rock maple for the main body and cherry for an outline. I'd use a
waterproof glue and instead of soaking it in mineral oil I'd use an
oil and beeswax paste such as Skidmores. I'd brings the wood up to a
beautiful finish, smells nice and is all natural and organic.

I've made a few end grain boards, never built one in though.

While you're at it why not have you knife holders built in to the
board. You'd want a first class set of knives. I'd recommend Sabatier
of France.

Trevor (just a been there, done that, and made a few mistakes, kinda
guy).       [email-masked]