Subject: Re: Water-based Urethanes (previously Diamond Finish, etc.)

From: [email-masked] (stev)
Date: 28 Mar 1997 07:25:08 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] says...
>
>I saw a note on Varathane's Diamond Finish and can add this:
>
>We tested it, and several similar products, on fir, oak and pine, both with
>and without stains. None added the richness we have come to like on top of
>bare wood. So we are staining first. You can use oil-based polyurethane as
>the first coat to get the old amber-hue. 
>
>We tried Zar, Zarathane and Sikkens' water-based urethanes and settled on
>Zar because it brushes on thicker, yeilding better a build. With
>Varathane's product, I had to put it on VERY thin to keep it from running
>and always needed three coats.

I put it down over a few coats of watco. The watco brings out the color,
especially in cherry. Now that I said that, someone suggest a good rub on
poly finish I can put on this dresser Im building. Otherwise, maybe Ill
try this Zar, cause like you say, the varathane is runny and brushing it
on vertical surfaces is a pain.

stev

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 07:56:44 GMT

>on vertical surfaces is a pain.

I prefer three "thin" coats to one or two thick ones, and since you
can recoat in two hours it's not a problem to do all in one day. I'd
have to agree that vertical surfaces are a bitch .

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From: [email-masked] (Bob Kopf)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 1997 18:54:31 -0500

In order to get the color I was after, I used alcohol based analine dyes
and pure pigments to get "just the right" color on our birdseye maple
floor.  I was origionally planning on just covering this with water based
poly but found that the the direct application of this material (brand
didn't seem to matter) turned my floor GREEN !!  Our final soulution also
added that richness I was looking for.  Before doing the poly, I sealed the
floor with a 12lb cut of amber shilac.  Since my "stain" was alcohol based,
I was able to stain and seal in one afternoon.  The next morning I was able
to put the first coat of poly down (after a quick rub with 400 grit
sandpaper-NOT STEEL WOOL when using WATER based poly--you don't want rust.)

I do think after seeing how the floor is wearing that the water based polys
need one more coat then their solvent based relatives.   My impression is
that the finish isn't quite as hard.  But, I have always waxed on top of
poly before and I didn't have time to do that this job.

In article <[email-masked]>, "Jim Rosenau"
<[email-masked]> wrote:

>> >> >The only downside is that it doesn't add the rich colour to
>light-coloured
>> >> >woods. But, that can be fixed by staining first. But, this can also
>be a
>> >> >--
>> 
>>
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