Subject: Delta table saw problem

From: "Clifford A. Collins" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 02:00:41 -0500

My brother-in-law gave me his Delta Contractor saw (34-445) when he
received delivery on his General cabinet saw. However, it was missing
a few parts. So, like a good purest, I ordered them through an
authorized Delta distributor.

Two of the missing items were the wrenches for changing the blade
on the saw. One is to hold the arbor from rotating and the other is
for loosening the retainer nut. Problem: there is not enough
clearance between the arbor casting that holds the arbor bearings
and the cupped washer that clamps against the saw blade to allow
the wrench access to the arbor. See low-tech artwork below.

               +------ saw blade
      cupped   |
      washer   |        +-----cupped washer
        |      v        |
 nut    |     ||        v  +----- wrench suppose to fit in here
  |     v     ||           |
  v      /|   ||       |\  v
 +-+    / |   ||       | \  +------+
 | |   |  |   ||   +---+  |-|      |- 
 | |   |  |   ||   |   |  | |      |  <---arbor
 | |   |  |   ||   +---+  |-|      |-
 +-+    \ |   ||       | /  +-+  +-+
         \|   ||       |/     |  |  <--- arbor casting
              ||

Anybody had this problem? Yeah, I know, just stick a piece of wook
against the blade. But, I'm a purest and want the tools to do what
they were intended to do. Is it worth calling Delta?

Clifford

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From: "John Vreeland" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 10:29:44 -0700

The instructions that came with my 34-444 say to use the block of wood in
front of the blade to hold it while loosening the nut.  The came with only
one wrench for the nut.  The part number is: 1087708.  Your model would
probably use same wrench.

Clifford A. Collins <[email-masked]> wrote in article
<[email-masked]>...
>snip

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From: L Maleszewski <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 1997 18:59:06 -0500

Clifford,
Have the same saw myself & went to the book, since I don't recall ever
using a second wrench to change the blade.  I always use the 'block of
wood' method for this job.  I'm skipping right to step three since one &
two are common sense.  If you can't figure them out, get rid of the saw,
as you'd hurt yourself.  Anyway the book says;

3. "Place a block of wood against the front of the saw blade, and using
the arbor wrench supplied with the saw, turn the arbor nut toward the
front of the saw.  Remove arbor nut, blade flange and saw blade."

Reinstalling the blade makes no mention either.  Pure & simple sounds
like the method here.  Good Luck

Larry

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From: [email-masked] (Alan Murphy)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 03:54:00 GMT

Clifford,

One point of Safety to bring up... I know we have discussed this many
times before but it still is worth mentioning.

As a rule of thumb...the blade doesn't need to be any tighter than
what you can hold with your hand.. by this I mean tighting the nut
with a wrench and holding the blade with your hand... I use a glove
for obvious reasons

If your blade is sharp this is as tight as you'll ever need (including
dados)

Also it imparts a measure of saftey should the blade bind in a piece
of wood the blade will be loose enough that it will stop spinning and
allow the arbor to rotate till you cut the power.

Alan

***********************************************************
Jesus is My Favorite Carpenter, 
  and he doesn't use a blade
         guard either.

Alan Murphy
Las Vegas, NV

Everyone is entitled to my opinion.
***********************************************************