Subject: Crown Molding On the Tablesaw (Long)

From: [email-masked] (SFFLYER)
Date: 2 Apr 1997 16:59:08 GMT

Re: A previous post requesting info on cutting crown (cornice) with
tablesaw...

Success!  

FWW No. 105 (The one with the Tool Chest Masterpiece cover - got to wonder
about that cross-grain top...)), Pg. 22 has the complete trig breakout
(assumes 90 degree wall/ceiling and 90 degree wall/wall) plus abridged
version.  FH may have covered this, but I don't have the issue.  For
common angles:

For crown with a 52 deg angle between the ceiling and back of the molding
(this is standard for cyma reversa plus cove, etc.):

1.  Set the blade tilt for 33.9 deg and the miter  gauge to 31.6 deg.  
2.  With the molding face up on the table, miter gauge rotated
counterclockwise to set angle (as viewed above), and lower (wall) edge of
molding against the miter gauge, you should get a left outside cut to the
left of the blade, and a right inside to the right side.
3.   With the molding face up on the table, miter gauge rotated clockwise
to set angle (as viewed above), and upper (ceiling) edge of molding
against the miter gauge, you should get a right outside cut to the left of
the blade, and a left inside to the right side.

For crown with a 45 deg angle between the ceiling and back of the molding
(this is standard for most simple cove molding):

1.  Set the blade tilt for 30.0 deg and the miter  gauge to 35.3 deg.  
2.  With the molding face up on the table, miter gauge rotated
counterclockwise to set angle (as viewed above), and lower (wall) edge of
molding against the miter gauge, you should get a left outside cut to the
left of the blade, and a right inside to the right side.
3.   With the molding face up on the table, miter gauge rotated clockwise
to set angle (as viewed above), and upper (ceiling) edge of molding
against the miter gauge, you should get a right outside cut to the left of
the blade, and a left inside to the right side.

Or, just get a decent back saw and miter box...