Subject: Re: Finishing Teak

From: [email-masked] (SFFLYER)
Date: 31 Mar 1997 16:23:41 GMT

Rebecca Wittman's book 'Brightwork' has a complete discussion of
refinishing teak, to include stripping.  Summarizing her sections on teak:

1.  Use varnish/paint remover to get down to the wood.
2.  Use TEKA A-B teak cleaner to pull oxidized oil from the wood.  TEKA A
will turn the wood nearly black (actually the chemical reaction with the
oxidized oils in the wood).  Flushing with TEKA B (buy two or three times
as much B as A) will result in the golden color so common to new teak. 
Follow with cold water.
3.  Varnish with 8-10 coats of International Marine Schooner Varnish
(final two coats #60 Rubbed Effect for a satin finish), or use a tung
oil/teak oil finish for areas belowdecks.

I have used this approach on teak and holly veneered plywood used on cabin
soles that were so heavily discolored by suntan lotion/sun fading/abrasive
sand/motor oil that the broker refused to show the boat.

TEKA works using a chemical reaction versus simply bleaching the wood. 
There is some slight grain raising, but 220/320/400 always produced a
varnish-ready surface.

IMHO, noting comes close to a 10 coat marine varnish finish on teak.

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:10:35 GMT

Unless you keep the vessel under cover or have full time crew
varsished teak is a 'pain in the a__'.
There is NO question that,it is beautiful but who of us without 
unlimited resources can maintain it? That is, if you use your vessel
for any thing but a gin palace?
IMOP oiled teak is the most practical method of maintaining exterior
teak and also IMOP for interior teak.
I do not believe that the stain on the piece of furniture would be as 
serious if the original finish had been an oil finish and the repair
would be that much easier. But don't take my word for it!
"Common Sense is so..Uncommon"FLW
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From: [email-masked] (Garrett Lambert)
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 09:14:22 GMT

I suggested this a few months ago to someone who wanted to re-do a
teak swim deck on his boat.

I had the same problem you described and I tried every finish I could,
but no joy and lots of frustration. Then one day in desperation, I
tried a couple of coats of the cedar siding preservative I had on
hand. Perfect! I know it sounds too easy, but it held up beautifully,
and because it doesn't form a skin like varnish, it can easily be
re-coated. It finishes matte if that matters to you.

Ttry it on a piece of scrap and let it weather a bit. I suspect you'll
be a convert, too.

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From: [email-masked] (SFFLYER)
Date: 1 Apr 1997 16:16:39 GMT

>"Common Sense is so..Uncommon"FLW>

Thanks for your comments  - always appreciated!  I'm pretty sure that the
original thread was on a teak dining table, so the boat thing probably is
not that great a concern for the original questioner.  

However; with regard to teak finishing for marine environments:

Limited quantities of varnished exterior teak are reasonable provided the
initial finish is built up to adequate film thickness.  For Interlux
standard-build varnishes (Schooner, etc.), 8-10 coats are required (5-6
for fast build such as Interlux Gold).  From that point; however, two
coats/year are good enough to maintain an intact finish for 5-7 years
where I live (35 deg North Lat - Annapolis), and double that for a boat
with covers over the varnish.  Just scratch and patch on a yearly basis.  

I would never varnish anything other than cockpit rails, Dorade boxes, and
compass boxes due to safety concerns over footing.  IMHO, the best
treatment for teak decks and other horizontal surfaces is a weekly light
scrub (cross-grain) with TSP in salt water.  A washdown with Nature's
Bleaching Agent (sea water) is nice to keep things looking fresh.  Also
saves the inevitable yearly strip of oil as the deck starts to turn black
>from  oxidation and the stuff that eats oil.  Nothing is more fun than
hanging a skirt to protect gelcoat/paint/hardware and slopping on TEKA
A-B.  I'd rather varnish wood masts in a sandstorm.

Don't get me wrong - I love the look of oiled teak on a deck, but I could
never justify the time/expense on anything larger than what I could afford
to maintain myself.

Down below - another story.  Varnished cabin soles (raised holly strips
are pretty non-skid) with rubbed oil finishes are beautiful and relatively
easy to maintain.  I know the cabin sole sounds slippery, but with a
rubbed effect varnish (Interlux #60), it looks great and does a much
better job against damage by sand, grit, etc. than straight oil.

My father's Crealock 37 had a varnished tiller, two deck hatch frames, and
cockpit coamings - just enough brightwork to let you know he cared.  I did
his decks once a year (light sanding with 220 where needed and redoing
loose bungs).  I greatly preferred that work to the wash/wax necessary on
the topsides.

Once again - enjoyed your comments.

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 1997 16:35:34 GMT

OH BOY! did I gooof I never wished to imply that in discussing
teak care the Oiled Decks was included.
I agree 100% that plain bleached teak is the way to go.
Looks good and Feels good.
Yeech,Imagine wrestling some sheet or sail on a wet oiled deck?
Not too good methinks. I appologize for any misinformation and
misunderstanding my post may have caused.
"Common Sense is so..Uncommon"FLW
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