Subject: Wood Edging on Countertop

From: Scott N Rothermel <[email-masked]>
Date: 10 Feb 1997 04:06:41 GMT

Need info or ideas on attaching oak edging for countertop.  The edging 
is 1-1/2" by 3" and will be rabbeted so only 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 will show. I 
would like to know the best way to seal the edge where the laminate and 
oak meet. What is the best way to attach the edging? I was planning on 
putting screws in from the bottom. Also I was considering glueing the 
edging on, but will the oak pull away from laminate with humidity changes? 
 Can I seal the edge touching the laminate base before glueing?  This 
countertop is for a bar, not a kitchen setup.

T.I.A.

Scott

---

From: [email-masked] (David Roseman)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 15:52:54 GMT

>countertop is for a bar, not a kitchen setup.

You say "laminate", but don't identify the substrate or its thickness,
e.g. is it 3/4" veneer-core plywood, or 3/4" MDF or something else; is
it single or doubled?  I've done this using regular aliphatic resin
(yellow) glue, and simply pinned the rabbet with 1-3/16" 18 gauge
brads from underneath after clamping up.  You'll be finishing with a
water/alcohol resistent finish, I assume, so no need for epoxy or
resorcinal glues, or even the "waterproof" yellow glue like Titebond
II.  Screws are probably overkill, and unless you countersink and plug
them will be visible from underneath the bar when your guests are
trying to get up off the floor.  However, they will allow you to "pull
the joint home" top-to-bottom if you are short on clamps.  Just be
sure to over-bore the oak so the screw threads don't pull it away as
they tighten (an easy mistake to make if you're used to just driving
screws into softwood without pilot holes with a driver drill.  I've
also edgebanded doubled 3/4" veneer-core plywood with 1-1/2" square
stock using  biscuits, which helps with the alignment, tho this won't
give the tactal effect of a continuous 3" oak edge from underneath.  I
wouldn't worry at all about seasonal wood movement separating the oak
at the laminate edge.  You are fastening only on the narrow 1-1/2"
rabbet.  If it wants to move, the outer edge is not anchored.  dcr

---

From: [email-masked] (David Roseman)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 16:14:55 GMT

>countertop is for a bar, not a kitchen setup.

Further to my reply posted a few minutes ago, I think on reflection I
would indeed use a two-part epoxy glue, as no matter what finish you
put on the oak edgeband, you won't want the finish to cross the glue
joint onto the laminate. Otherwise, comments remain the same.  dcr

---

From: [email-masked] (David Roseman)
Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 16:10:31 GMT

---

From: [email-masked] (Trevor Galvin)
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:05:20 GMT

I'd glue and screw the edging on. The glue should be enough of a seal.
I'd use plenty of clamps to get a tight fit. You can seal all surfaces
except those that get glue before assembly. Some linseed oil brings
oak up to a nice finish.

Trevor

---

From: "Donn Busby" <[email-masked]>
Date: 12 Feb 1997 07:04:11 GMT

David, what I have done in the past that has eliminated any problem with
the junction of formica and edging is to glue the edging on first yellow
glue, sand it flush with the surface, then apply the formica.  At that
point you can route a profile into the edge, I usually just route a
chamfer.  The main downside to this technique is that the core of the
formica is visible, which you may or may not find objectionable.  This
black stripe can be avoided by using solid color formica, which is more
expensive.

David Roseman <[email-masked]> wrote in article
<[email-masked]>...