Subject: Re: Work Bench Finishes

From: [email-masked] (DavidSloan)
Date: 27 Mar 1997 13:48:00 GMT

<<
JPietrella writes
> I have just built a new wood working bench which is maple with a red oak
> end cap.  I am trying to figure out what I should use for a finish.  Any
> suggestions???????
>>

For a workbench finish I'm partial to an oil-varnish product called
WATERLOX. 

David Sloan
editor & publisher
American Woodworker magazine

---

From: [email-masked] (James DuPrie)
Date: 27 Mar 1997 19:37:12 GMT

I disagree...
	My "good" bench has the standard wax/turp/linseed finish. It isn't
any more slippery than my other benches (the polyurethane is *more* slick).
I don't have a Tung oil bench.
	The trick of using the drips ot keep the finish "fresh" works for wax 
too.... I also have gone for about 8 months without "refreshing" the wax finish -
it hasn't deteriorated all that much - possible because this finish gets pretty
good penetration. Most of the scrathes in the surface that actually expose
naked (un waxed) wood are at least 1/32 deep - anything less and the wood 
has been penetrated by the finish.....
		JD

 >I note a number of people have mentioned using wax, of finishes containing
 >wax. The slick finish wax gives while it lasts, which isn't long in a
 >shop environment, is exactly opposite to the purpose of workbench.

---

From: [email-masked] (Steven Bakalis)
Date: 29 Mar 1997 05:09:18 GMT

This is a perfect application for polyurathane. Its tuff, strong, clear,
resists water and solvents, and goes on easy.

Steven B.

---

From: [email-masked] (stev)
Date: 29 Mar 1997 07:07:07 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] says...
>resists water and solvents, and goes on easy.

But it doesnt repair easy. And if its on a workbench, it will get 
chipped, scratched, and generally mutilated or youre not doing much 
work on it. 

stev

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From: [email-masked] (Steven Bakalis)
Date: 31 Mar 1997 06:26:33 GMT

stev ([email-masked]) wrote:
: In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] says...
: >
: >This is a perfect application for polyurathane. Its tuff, strong, clear,
: >resists water and solvents, and goes on easy.
: >
: >Steven B.
: >

: But it doesnt repair easy. And if its on a workbench, it will get 
: chipped, scratched, and generally mutilated or youre not doing much 
: work on it. 

: stev

If and when your workbech gets chipped, scratched, and generally
mutilated, you'll need to do more to repair it than recoat the surface
with a little danish oil. With polyurathane if the gouge and or scratch
is deep you can pour the stuff in and fill the opening until it is
level with the surface and let it dry. You can't do this with an oil
finish.

Steven B.

---

From: [email-masked] (Bennett Leeds)
Date: 1 Apr 1997 17:32:23 GMT

Steven Bakalis writes
> resists water and solvents, and goes on easy.

When it does get damaged, it's hard to repair. If you need to reflatten
your bench, it's a pain to remove. It's also slippery. I believe
polyurethane is a poor choice of finish for a woodworking bench.

- Bennett Leeds
[email-masked]

Opinions are mine alone.

From Chuck Riccardo Wed Apr  2 12:13:57 EST 1997
Article: 193864 of rec.woodworking
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From: Chuck Riccardo
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: If you were NORM would you POST HERE ????
Date: 29 Mar 1997 00:24:35 GMT
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Okay, how about it? If you were Norm, would you post to this news group???

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From: Patrick Olguin <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 21:33:41 -0500

> level with the surface and let it dry. You can't do this with an oil

Can you do it with PU? I've had very bad luck trying to apply thick PU
finishes in one "pour". This might work with epoxy.

What I look for in a bench finish is something that will resist glue
spills long enough for me to wipe them off, and something that gives the
bench just a little lustre. It is, after all, a bench. Pure tung oil meets
those criteria.