Subject: teak

From: "BEN SIMPSON" <[email-masked]>
Date: 27 Mar 1997 17:04:00 GMT

My wife sat a hot pot on our teak dining table.  A spot was left which
looks now like a slightly bleached circle.  Any suggestions on how to fix
the problem?
respond to:  [email-masked]

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 12:59:47 UNDEFINED

In article <01bc3ad0$b7d48ca0$678593cf@default> "BEN SIMPSON" <[email-masked]> writes:
>From: "BEN SIMPSON" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: teak
>Date: 27 Mar 1997 17:04:00 GMT

>respond to:  [email-masked]

Another who wants free help, but won't even bother to check the NG for it.  

OK, Ben, here goes:  You can't fix it - you must replace it.  Use a spade bit 
and jigsaw to cut a square in the table.  Then get some new teak and cut to 
fit.

Rich

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From: "AD" <[email-masked]>
Date: 27 Mar 1997 23:22:11 GMT

Fortunately your wife's pot didn't turn the wood black which would have
indicated burning (carbon) about which little can be done without radical
"surgery" i.e.sanding right through the mark - sometimes quite deeply.

In your case, the mark is probably caused by a molecular change in the
sealer, which has gone from clear to white. Hopefully, you will be able to
get rid of this by using a VERY fine abrasive paper (180grit or finer) to
erase the surface mark, and then re-finish the spot. "Feather" the sealer
in to the old surface well, and you won't see the mark.

Better still, re-surface the whole table while you're about it and apply a
"bleached-mark resistant" POLYURETHANE sealer, and you won't even have to
worry about place-mats to protect your table for normal daily use.

Hop this helps.

Andrew Dunn

BEN SIMPSON <[email-masked]> wrote in article
<01bc3ad0$b7d48ca0$678593cf@default>...

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From: Bruce Taylor <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 14:48:39 -0500

> and jigsaw to cut a square in the table.  Then get some new teak and cut to

Rich's advice is nonsense - and I don't much care for his attitude,
either. The white circle is almost certainly a chemical change in
the finish. The answer might be as simple as waxing the whole table
with a good grade of furniture wax, or it might require refinishing
the table top. It certainly does NOT require reconstruction of the
wood surface.

				<Grumph...>
				Bruce Taylor
-- 
-------------------------------------------------
To reply, replace * with . in "Reply To:" address
... damn spammers...

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From: "John A. Zajac" <[email-masked]>
Date: 28 Mar 1997 02:16:34 GMT

A teak dinner table had wine stains where a glass spilled between the
padded leaves covering the wood.  We took it to a store in Cincinnati
(Otmar's) to see what they could do.  It was something unbelievably
inexpensive (like $25).  They took a fine-grained sandpaper and hand sanded
the table.  Then they oiled it.  It looks beautiful.  I wouldn't have
believed it.  It probably has a lot to do with all the oils in teak which
doesn't allow the stain to penetrate too deeply.  I don't know if your
situation is the same, but it is sure worth the try.

AD <[email-masked]> wrote in article
<[email-masked]>...
| Fortunately your wife's pot didn't turn the wood black which would have
| indicated burning (carbon) about which little can be done without radical
| "surgery" i.e.sanding right through the mark - sometimes quite deeply.
| 
| In your case, the mark is probably caused by a molecular change in the
| sealer, which has gone from clear to white. Hopefully, you will be able
to
| get rid of this by using a VERY fine abrasive paper (180grit or finer) to
| erase the surface mark, and then re-finish the spot. "Feather" the sealer
| in to the old surface well, and you won't see the mark.
| 
| Better still, re-surface the whole table while you're about it and apply
a
| "bleached-mark resistant" POLYURETHANE sealer, and you won't even have to
| worry about place-mats to protect your table for normal daily use.
| 
| Hop this helps.
| 
| Andrew Dunn
| 
| BEN SIMPSON <[email-masked]> wrote in article
| <01bc3ad0$b7d48ca0$678593cf@default>...
| > My wife sat a hot pot on our teak dining table.  A spot was left which
| > looks now like a slightly bleached circle.  Any suggestions on how to
fix
| > the problem?
| > respond to:  [email-masked]
| > 
|

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From: jason Steward <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 09:29:51 +0000

I find it unbelievable that anyone would want to apply polyurethane to 
teak.  This is an oil finish only type of wood.  If it is light 
colored teak (the whole table) use tung oil.  If it is dark, then 
boiled linseed oil.  First try roughing up the damaged area with 400 
grit sandpaper.  Dab a small amount of the oil on the area, and wipe 
off.  If this removes the blemish scuff the entire tabletop and apply 
oil, let sit for 15 minutes and wipe off.  If you want to increase the 
luster and protection for you table, apply many coats.  These coats 
should be applied at least 12 hours appart, but not more than 24 hours 
appart.  

jhs

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From: Dan Pressman <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 11:52:11 -0500

I agree with the second response below,  the first sentence would have
been Ok if it had been followed with a URL into FAQ.  Grumpy is ok if it
includes a shove in the wright direction.

Dan

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From: [email-masked] (BRADSTRUM)
Date: 1 Apr 1997 15:14:06 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>,
>worry about place-mats to protect your table for normal daily use.

Not on teak !!! Teak is too "oily" for a polyurethane finish.

Todd Bradstrum