4079 Article 4079 (130 more) in rec.woodworking: From: sbhattac@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU (Shankar Bhattacharyya) Subject: Re: Linseed Oil: What are the applications? Message-ID: <15250@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU> Date: 12 Aug 91 03:10:29 GMT References: <1991Aug8.155507.3214@newcastle.ac.uk> <1991Aug9.195200.12301@hubcap .clemson.edu> Organization: NYU Stern School of Business Lines: 26 In article <1991Aug9.195200.12301@hubcap.clemson.edu> hubcap@hubcap.clemson.edu (System Janitor) writes: >I wouldn't know linseed oil if it bit me on the butt, but... ...... >Turns out the rags they were using to rub in the linseed oil, which they >had (stupidly?) left in the house overnight had spontaneously combusted. > >So, maybe you can't light it easily with a match (``... not that easy to >ignite...'') but if this story is to be believed, then it is must be >chemically active in the presence of other common stuff (like whatever >these rags were made of). --MORE--(59%) Linseed oil is no more likely to ignite, under any circumstances, than any vegetable oil, excluding assorted second and third order effects. Nor is it likely to react with anything in the rags, unless someone has dosed the rags with some serious oxidant. But it is combustible, and, once ignited, will burn pretty much as will any cooking fat. However, if the oil is diluted with some solvent, to thin it, more or less spontaneous ignition is possible, given a small spark. But that should surprise nobody. That is a property of the thinning agent, not of the oil. In general, leaving rags around is probably not wise, particularly if they bear some oil or other combustible material. - Shankar End of article 4079 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4081 (129 more) in rec.woodworking: From: dolata@lead.uazaic.arizona.edu (Dolata) Subject: Re: How do I make small barrels? Summary: Coopering not easy... cheat! Message-ID: <1991Aug11.220754.1258@arizona.edu> Date: 12 Aug 91 05:07:53 GMT References: <1991Aug11.031151.9457@cis.ohio-state.edu> Sender: dolata@mercury.aichem.arizona.edu Distribution: world,local Organization: University of Arizona AI Chemistry Lab, Tucson, AZ Lines: 35 Nntp-Posting-Host: lead.aichem.arizona.edu Excuse me while I get on a soapbox - I have worked as a joiner/turner at a Renaissance Living History villiage. One of the comments that often amazes me is "They didn't have nails back then." If you will remember, that's how they joined Jesus to the cross! The point is that nails were hand made and correspondingly expensive, and so were used sparingly if wood joinery could be used instead. Okay, back down off the soapbox. --MORE--(41%) Cooperage is NOT an easy job. The carver from the Living History Village and I have spent many a pleasant, but frustrating hour, trying with varying degrees of success to make barrels and buckets. I have now made 1 watertight bucket (and about 10 that arn't), and a number of real bad barrels. They held water after a lot of shenanigans (melted wax inside), but they ain't good barrels. I have essentially given up on barrel making, at least for now. Amoung other problems, I don't have the tools. There are heading tools, and croizers, and all sorts of odd tools to make the various bits. BUT, perhaps your friend can do what I do, which is to cheat. Since I use my barrels mostly for black powder, shot, and such, they don't have to be very big (I don't want mroe than 10 pounds of powder around). So I cheat and make up a thick walled cylender out of at least 12 to 20 staves, and then turn it round and barrel shaped on the outside. I turn two large rebates on the head ends and simply set and glue the head into place. The fact that the interior is straight walled will not show up except with the closest of inspections. I use COPPER banding and copper nails to prevent sparking. My friend the carver uses the same technique for his wet barrels with one --MORE--(95%) minor modification... he sneaks a "wine-box" liner into it before he sels the head into place. End of article 4081 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4082 (128 more) in rec.woodworking: From: MTHEOBAL@cmsa.gmr.com Subject: Bartley Gel Stains Message-ID: <61058@rphroy.ph.gmr.com> Date: 12 Aug 91 13:34:24 GMT Sender: news@rphroy.ph.gmr.com Organization: GM Research Labs Lines: 21 Nntp-Posting-Host: cmsa.gmr.com * No brushes required! * No runs or sags! * No liquid to splash or spill! * No overpowering odor! * No sanding between coats! * Dries to the touch in minutes! * You can control color! * Actually repels dust between coats! * Doesn't turn end grain black! * No stirring...it doesn't settle in the can! Back to the subject at hand. Has anyone ever used this stuff? How does it compare to regular stain? Is it worth the price? 1/2 pint $5.95, pint $8.95, quart $14.95, gallon $39.95 --MORE--(64%) I've used this stuff on Bartley furniture kits that don't get a lot of abuse. All of the claims seem correct except for ACTUALLY repelling dust????? The material is a gel that you apply with a rag, then wipe off. I've had good control of color w/o problems with the end grain. Not being Homer Formby, I would use this material on any furniture not needing lacquer or polyurethane. To me, it is worth the price, and a 1/2 pint goes a long way. Mark Theobald End of article 4082 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] 4080 Article 4080 (128 more) in rec.woodworking: From: dolata@lead.uazaic.arizona.edu (Dolata) Subject: Re: Linseed Oil: What are the applications? Summary: Linseed oil reacts with Oxygen Keywords: Linseed Oil Message-ID: <1991Aug11.215019.1257@arizona.edu> Date: 12 Aug 91 04:50:18 GMT References: <1991Aug8.155507.3214@newcastle.ac.uk> <1991Aug9.195200.12301@hubcap .clemson.edu> Sender: dolata@mercury.aichem.arizona.edu Distribution: world,local Organization: University of Arizona AI Chemistry Lab, Tucson, AZ Lines: 19 > ignite...'') but if this story is to be believed, then it is must be > chemically active in the presence of other common stuff (like whatever > these rags were made of). Merck Index - 10'th Edition, entry 5335- Const. Glycerides of linolenic, linoleic, oleic, steric, palmitic and myristic acids. (Glyceride means the acid is chemically combined... don't worry about that part). The first few acids contain double bonds. Double bonds can react --MORE--(68%) with atmospheric oxygen, to give off a little heat. If that heat is trapped in a good insulator (loose rags), then the increased temperature causes the next molecule to react with oxygen just a little faster... eventually you pass the flash point and POOF... you got flames. The reaction is between the oil and the air. The rag provides insulation. Linseed oil is not dangerous on the surface of wood in normal usage. When I use linseed oil, I take the rags out to my fire pit and burn them in a controlled setting. End of article 4080 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4083 (127 more) in rec.woodworking: From: drew@drew.b17a.ingr.com (Drew Mills) Subject: Delta 34-670 (Was: Table Saw Motors) Message-ID: <1991Aug12.135806.7030@infonode.ingr.com> Date: 12 Aug 91 13:58:06 GMT References: <1991Jul29.162458.4164@mlb.semi.harris.com> <5650044@hplsla.HP.COM> <1991Aug7.220230.14466@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> <1991Aug8.164239.7872@amd.com> <2442@ec icrl.ocunix.on.ca> Sender: usenet@infonode.ingr.com (Usenet Administrator) Reply-To: drew@drew.b17a.ingr.com Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Cartographic Applications Lines: 34 -- The Delta 34-670 has been quoted at $350 at Home Depot. I got mine for $299 this past Christmas. The salesman told me that they lower their prices every Christmas season starting around the beginning of November. As far as working with the 34-670 goes, I'm very pleased. The stamped metal wings some folks have worried over are actually very sturdy. The steel used as a VERY heavy gauge and is attached very securely with some sturdy tightly threaded machine bolts. I originally had some problems getting the blade guard to line up with the kerf. It turns out the --MORE--(44%) problem was that I only tried to rotate the guard mount but in fact it has some room to maneuver left & right as well. The motor has plenty of power and the top is really sturdy. The fence is only pretty good. A couple of times I noticed that the back end didn't align itself as completely as it should have. I realize that having a high quality fence is greatly to be desired but I can live with 'only pretty good'. The fence is sturdy, aligns itself most of the time, and clamps down tightly. For $299, it was unbeatable. Some of you may remember a thread I requested last fall concerning whether to buy a used saw or an inexpensive new one. I simple could not find a good saw for $200-$300. When I found out the Delta was going on sale, I decided to go with it and I'm really happy I did. For anyone on a tight budget, I think you would be too. ________________________________________________________________________ / | \ | Drew Mills | Mail Stop: IW17A3 | | Cartographic Applications | E-Mail: drew@drew.b17a.ingr.com | | Intergraph Corporation | Telephone: (205) 730-1809 | | Huntsville, Alabama 35894-0001 | FAX: (205) 730-7629 | |--------------------------------------------------------------------------| | ...Consider yourself a disclaimee | --MORE--(97%) \________________________________________________________________________/ End of article 4083 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4084 (126 more) in rec.woodworking: From: wilson@schaefer.math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson) Subject: Re: Linseed Oil: What are the applications? Summary: dangers of oily rags Keywords: Linseed Oil, Spontaneous Combustion Message-ID: <1991Aug12.142447.22832@schaefer.math.wisc.edu> Date: 12 Aug 91 14:24:47 GMT References: <1991Aug8.155507.3214@newcastle.ac.uk> <1991Aug9.195200.12301@hubcap .clemson.edu> <1991Aug11.215019.1257@arizona.edu> Reply-To: wilson@math.wisc.edu (Bob Wilson) Organization: Univ. of Wisconsin Dept. of Mathematics Lines: 39 I'm no chemist, but I am a little worried that nobody seems to have pointed out that ANY oily rag is a potential danger due to spontaneous combustion. As I recall the story, the oil is always oxidizing. (Same process that makes your salad oil or butter go rancid...) The oxidation reaction generates heat. It also goes faster at higher temperatures, like most chemical reactions. Suppose you have oily rag crumpled up and thrown in corner: Down in the middle the reaction is going on, and generating heat. It is elsewhere too, but down in the middle it is also insulated by the rest of the rag. Thus the heat doesn't escape freely, and the temperature rises significantly. That --MORE--(43%) makes the reaction go faster, and you're into a cycle that can raise the temperature above the ignition point of the rag, the oil, or whatever else (sawdust?) is nearby. My old shop teacher, the books I have read, and I think even the Boy Scout Handbook, always DEMAND special treatment for oily rags. The desired treatment is either (1) put them in a small sealed container which can take some heat without melting or catching fire itself, e.g. an old paint can which has been thoroughly cleaned out, and with the top firmly in place, or (2) put them under water in a can or something. Option (1) smothers the reaction: The available oxygen gets used up soon, and stops the proceedings. Option (2) both keeps oxygen away and absorbs large amounts of heat. Of course (2) also makes it unlikely you will want to reuse the rags on the next day... I sometimes cheat, and just spread such a rag out flat in the middle of an open area of concrete. It presumably will oxidize but the heat generated will escape rapidly. Of course this also fills the area with more fumes than (1) or (2)... I want to _underline_ that this applies to ALL "oily" rags, not just to "boiled linseed oil". I don't know just what oils are included, so I play it safe and assume it is really ALL. That particularly includes all stains, varnishes, etc., that aren't water based, and all solvents such as mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, etc. There is a lot of new construction going on in our neighborhood, and --MORE--(92%) two "dumpsters" have caught fire in the last year due (officially) to oily rags thrown into sawdust (fuel, more insulation) by the floor finishing people. One nearly took out the new house it was next to. Regards, Bob Wilson wilson@math.wisc.edu End of article 4084 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4085 (125 more) in rec.woodworking: From: jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov (Jim Jagielski) Subject: Re: Bartley Gel Stains Message-ID: Date: 12 Aug 91 16:03:17 GMT References: <61058@rphroy.ph.gmr.com> Sender: news@dftsrv.gsfc.nasa.gov Reply-To: jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov (Jim Jagielski) Organization: NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center Lines: 30 MTHEOBAL@cmsa.gmr.com writes: >* No brushes required! >* No runs or sags! >* No liquid to splash or spill! >* No overpowering odor! >* No sanding between coats! >* Dries to the touch in minutes! >* You can control color! >* Actually repels dust between coats! >* Doesn't turn end grain black! >* No stirring...it doesn't settle in the can! --MORE--(47%) > Back to the subject at hand. Has anyone ever used this stuff? How does it > compare to regular stain? Is it worth the price? > 1/2 pint $5.95, pint $8.95, quart $14.95, gallon $39.95 >I've used this stuff on Bartley furniture kits that don't get a lot of abuse. Is it possible to put some poly over it to give it more protection? I've just finished a chest o' drawers and was interested in using a gel-type stain, such as Bartley or WoodKote... -- ============================================================================== #include Jim Jagielski NASA/GSFC, Code 711.4 jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov Greenbelt, MD 20771 "...there is no cannibalism in the British Navy. Absolutely none. And when I say none, I mean there is a certain amount..." End of article 4085 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4086 (124 more) in rec.woodworking: From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu) Subject: Re: Has anyone used Bartley Gel Stains? Message-ID: <1991Aug12.163814.1118@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> Date: 12 Aug 91 16:38:14 GMT References: Sender: Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu Distribution: na Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va. Lines: 15 In article mullins@convex.com (Don Mullins ) writes: > > I just recieved the lastest Bartley Kit Furniture catalog and it has an add > for their 'Gel Stain' in the back cover. Here's the hype: >...... > Back to the subject at hand. Has anyone ever used this stuff? How does it > compare to regular stain? Is it worth the price? > > 1/2 pint $5.95, pint $8.95, quart $14.95, gallon $39.95 > --MORE--(75%) Article 4087 (123 more) in rec.woodworking: From: MTHEOBAL@cmsa.gmr.com Subject: Bartley Gel Stains Message-ID: <61085@rphroy.ph.gmr.com> Date: 12 Aug 91 19:44:41 GMT Sender: news@rphroy.ph.gmr.com Organization: GM Research Labs Lines: 11 Nntp-Posting-Host: cmsa.gmr.com ------------------------- Original Article ------------------------- jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov (Jim Jagielski)asks: Is it possible to put some poly over it to give it more protection? I've just finished a chest o' drawers and was interested in using a gel-type stain, such as Bartley or WoodKote... -- I don't know the answer to this, but I suggest that you call Bartley to check compatibility with the different urethane finishes. Mark Theobald End of article 4087 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] 4086 Article 4086 (123 more) in rec.woodworking: From: sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu) Subject: Re: Has anyone used Bartley Gel Stains? Message-ID: <1991Aug12.163814.1118@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> Date: 12 Aug 91 16:38:14 GMT References: Sender: Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu Distribution: na Organization: Dept. of Systems Eng., U.Va. Lines: 15 In article mullins@convex.com (Don Mullins ) writes: > > I just recieved the lastest Bartley Kit Furniture catalog and it has an add > for their 'Gel Stain' in the back cover. Here's the hype: >...... > Back to the subject at hand. Has anyone ever used this stuff? How does it > compare to regular stain? Is it worth the price? > > 1/2 pint $5.95, pint $8.95, quart $14.95, gallon $39.95 > --MORE--(75%) I got some for my wife to use in refinishing a bunch of furniture. We've been pleased. Having the pigment suspended in the gel seems to avoid some of the problems with blotching and settling. It is not odorless by any means (not water-based either). My wife has used both the stain and varnish. End of article 4086 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4088 (122 more) in rec.woodworking: From: stanj@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Stan Jaffe) Subject: Re: Bench Top Bandsaws Message-ID: <4890159@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> Date: 12 Aug 91 16:03:59 GMT References: <11452@plains.NoDak.edu> Organization: HP Network Measurements Div, Santa Rosa, CA Lines: 16 In rec.woodworking, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes: It should be easy to find out the thickness of the blades made for your saw (if it's not on the blade's label or in the saw's manual try calling a place that sells both readymade and custom made blades - they should know). Or easier yet, measure the blade that came with the saw with a vernier caliper or micrometer. Stan Jaffe A.K.A. stanj@sr.hp.com HP Santa Rosa, Calif. --MORE--(87%) "Not responsible for any opinions but my own" ------------------------------------------------------------------ End of article 4088 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4089 (121 more) in rec.woodworking: From: ness@tc.fluke.COM (Jerry Ness) Newsgroups: rec.misc,rec.woodworking,misc.wanted Subject: Re: Clinton Engine parts suppliers ..... Message-ID: <1991Aug12.184537.20444@tc.fluke.COM> Date: 12 Aug 91 18:45:37 GMT References: <1991Aug7.203851.13562@icd.ab.com> <1991Aug9.185155.13587@crash.cts. com> Distribution: usa Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA Lines: 20 I am the owner of (drum roll+cymbals): Milwaukee Equipment Rotary Tiller (serial no. 314) It's powered by a Clinton 5 h.p. engine. The last time I called a small engine repair shop and asked about part for a Clinton the man on the other end laughed out loud!! Then informed me 'good luck they been outa business for over 20 years'! Briggs' are a whole ball game! I have a David Bradly 2 wheel garden tractor with a 1 1/2 hp briggs in it. I can still get parts for the engine. Getting parts for the 'drive train' is probably another story. It may never need drive train parts anyway 'cuz the trannie is 2 or 3 --MORE--(78%) Article 4090 (120 more) in rec.woodworking: From: smb@ulysses.att.com (Steven Bellovin) Subject: Re: Linseed Oil: What are the applications? Message-ID: <15325@ulysses.att.com> Date: 13 Aug 91 01:40:30 GMT References: <7027@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: netnews@ulysses.att.com Lines: 2 Last Thursday's NY Times (8/8/91) had an article on linseed oil in the Home section. End of article 4090 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4092 (119 more) in rec.woodworking: From: dunphy@col.hp.com (Dan Dunphy) Subject: Re: Re: Cedar Strip Canoe Message-ID: <19130031@col.hp.com> Date: 12 Aug 91 23:45:43 GMT References: Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division Lines: 29 / col:rec.woodworking / dunphy@col.hp.com (Dan Dunphy) / 5:43 pm Aug 12, 1991 / Ok, the real question. Are you guys paddlers who happen to be woodworkers, or woodworkers who happen to be paddlers, or perspective paddlers? I'm a long time paddler who wants to build a stripper, can't seem to find time. I did help a friend to do the outside glass in West System epoxy, about three years ago, and have a lot of glass experience, and some wood working experience. I've had pretty good luck using a sponge for a sanding block on coupound curved surfaces, doing auto body work. This might be a good way to do the finish sanding inside. --MORE--(72%) Where did you get your designs? I've considered the plans in Canoe, but have also read Canoecraft thoroughly. You could email me, or post here or to rec.boats.paddle. --- -- __ ___ | \ / \ |\ | (My advice is probably worth what you paid | | |___| | \ | for it!) |___/ | | | \| DoD #281 Dan Dunphy dunphy@col.hp.com ---------- End of article 4092 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4093 (118 more) in rec.woodworking: From: dunphy@col.hp.com (Dan Dunphy) Subject: Re: Re: Cedar Strip Canoe Message-ID: <19130030@col.hp.com> Date: 12 Aug 91 23:43:31 GMT References: Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division Lines: 24 Ok, the real question. Are you guys paddlers who happen to be woodworkers, or woodworkers who happen to be paddlers, or perspective paddlers? I'm a long time paddler who wants to build a stripper, can't seem to find time. I did help a friend to do the outside glass in West System epoxy, about three years ago, and have a lot of glass experience, and some wood working experience. Where did you get your designs? I've considered the plans in Canoe, but have also read Canoecraft thoroughly. You could email me, or post here or to rec.boats.paddle. --- --MORE--(82%) -- __ ___ | \ / \ |\ | (My advice is probably worth what you paid | | |___| | \ | for it!) |___/ | | | \| DoD #281 Dan Dunphy dunphy@col.hp.com End of article 4093 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4094 (117 more) in rec.woodworking: From: stanj@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com (Stan Jaffe) Subject: Re: After market rip fence Message-ID: <4890160@hpnmdla.sr.hp.com> Date: 12 Aug 91 17:36:35 GMT References: <10034@drutx.ATT.COM> Organization: HP Network Measurements Div, Santa Rosa, CA Lines: 40 In rec.woodworking, adp@druwy.ATT.COM (PessotA) writes: I'm in the market for an after-market rip fence for my 10" Craftsman table saw. (No snide remarks. It was a gift from my in-laws before I had any tools). I have a set of 3 good Frued carbide blades and am fairly comfortable with the results, but the rip fence is driving me crazy. I went down to Schlosser Tools here in Denver where they told me the Delta Unifence could not be put on a Craftsman saw. They also said the Beisemeyer would work, but I'd have to drill holes into the cast iron table top to get it to fit. I have a catalog from Tools on Sale that says the Unifence DOES fit other saws, including Craftsman. --MORE--(54%) Has anyone out there put an aftermarket fence on a Craftsman saw? What kind? How difficult was it to install? I know nobody will respond and admit they have a Sears table saw, but if you respond via e-mail. I will gladly post a summary after deleting all names to protect the innocent :-). Al Pessot AT&T Bell Labs Denver druwy!adp I have been told by several people that the fellow who runs Beisemeyer is very helpful and accessibly by phone. Try calling him to get the details on the Beisemeyer on a Craftsman. He may even give you information on his competitor's fences. BTW, I will admit to owning a (gasp) Craftsman table saw (1980) and would also like to find out details on putting a decent fence on it. It otherwise does an acceptable job. Stan Jaffe A.K.A. stanj@sr.hp.com HP Santa Rosa, Calif. --MORE--(94%) Article 4095 (116 more) in rec.woodworking: From: donb@crash.cts.com (Donald Bowen) Subject: Re: How do I make small barrels? Message-ID: <1991Aug12.221526.2838@crash.cts.com> Date: 12 Aug 91 22:15:26 GMT References: <1991Aug11.031151.9457@cis.ohio-state.edu> Organization: Crash TimeSharing, El Cajon, CA Lines: 16 Tell your friend to spend time in the library looking up cooper. Coopers were the people who made barrels which were the only water proof hay to ship anything. There are several tools and techniques used in cooper work. The staves (boards) are flat with a shape that when held in place with the hoops form the shape. The edges are planed to form a water tight joint. The ends must me exact size nd shape for the same reason. No nails were used because a nail means a hole. Cooper information can be had in one of the foxfire books. Several books are available in the library. Recently I was researching wagon building but found more about coopers. I have seen several museums with cooper shops. You could write old colonial Williamsburg to see what they have. The number I have is 804-220-7126. --MORE--(99%) DonB End of article 4095 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4096 (115 more) in rec.woodworking: From: phil@brahms.amd.com (Phil Ngai) Subject: Forrest Woodworker II Message-ID: <1991Aug13.042239.28150@amd.com> Date: 13 Aug 91 04:22:39 GMT Sender: usenet@amd.com (NNTP Posting) Organization: Advanced Micro Devices; Sunnyvale, CA Lines: 7 Has anyone found a good price on this? The 10" 40 tooth blade seems to go for about $99. Also, are the blade stiffeners worth getting? This would be used on a Grizzly G1022 contractor style saw. -- Stop casting porosity! What does that mean? End of article 4096 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4097 (114 more) in rec.woodworking: From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow) Subject: Re: Linseed Oil: What are the applications? Message-ID: <7027@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: 11 Aug 91 17:57:58 GMT Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Lines: 15 sbhattac@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU (Shankar Bhattacharyya) writes: > Linseed oil is no more likely to ignite, under any circumstances, than any > vegetable oil, excluding assorted second and third order effects. "Boiled" linseed oil--and most other "drying" oils--contain metallic driers such as cobalt, which increase the rate of oxidation. The faster the rate of oxidation, the faster the heat builds up, and if it's insulated by a nice crumpled-up rag... I spread my oily rags out flat to dry. That way the heat dissipates before it reaches dangerous temperatures. -- Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca End of article 4097 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Skipping unavailable articleArticle 4099 (112 more) in rec.woodworking: From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) Subject: Re: How do I make small barrels? Message-ID: <2458@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> Date: 12 Aug 91 19:25:53 GMT References: <1991Aug11.031151.9457@cis.ohio-state.edu> Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada Lines: 48 In article <1991Aug11.031151.9457@cis.ohio-state.edu> kronk@tortoise.cis.ohio-st ate.edu (david kronk) writes: >I have a friend who wants to make minature barrels (less than 2 ft high) for >display and use at musket rifle shoots. He says that the finished product >must not contain any nails or rivets (since they didn't have them in the >"olden days"), but that any modern technique can be used to make them. There's an article in Fine WoodWorking, #62 Jan/Feb 1987 entitled "Tight Coopering" which gives a fairly detailed description of how it is done. >The specific problems he has are these... How can the boards be bent? First you light a fire in your cresset (see the book). Then you put a end hoop around one end of the staves. Then you plant the cone shaped --MORE--(46%) assembly over the cresset and wait 10-20 minutes for the wood to soften. Then you have to compress the staves and start forcing the other hoops on. Commercial shops use power winches to close the barrel. It don't look easy. One of my rain barrels was left with water in it over the winter. Partially blew out the bottom. A friend and I partly disassembled the end, realigned the bottom plate, and then put the rings back on (we even had the right tools - caulking irons). Even tho the barrel was originally quite good, the results leaked like a sieve. Until I filled it with the flush water from the pool, and the crud sealed up the cracks long enough for the water to expand the wood. It's not particularly water-tight anymore... >What is the simplist method to produce a small quantity of identical barrels Buy them? ;-) >(can a mold be used)? --MORE--(79%) Wouldn't help. The real trick is shaving the staves properly. And using riven (not sawn) stave stock. >I think metal rings can be used (I don't know how else these barrels would work ). They did have blacksmiths after all. On the other hand, rivetted ash or hickory hoops were also used. -- Chris Lewis; UUCP: ...!{cunews,uunet,latour}!ecicrl!clewis; DOMAIN: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541 Psroff info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca Ferret mailing list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca End of article 4099 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4100 (111 more) in rec.woodworking: From: phil@brahms.amd.com (Phil Ngai) Subject: table saw guide Message-ID: <1991Aug13.055308.420@amd.com> Date: 13 Aug 91 05:53:08 GMT Sender: usenet@amd.com (NNTP Posting) Organization: Advanced Micro Devices; Sunnyvale, CA Lines: 180 Phil's (probably oversimplified) guide to table saws. Corrections and additions appreciated. TYPES OF TABLE SAWS The October 1990 issue of Better Homes and Gardens Wood magazine classifies table saws into three basic types, direct drive, contractor's style, and cabinetmaker's style. The direct drive mounts the blade on the motor spindle. They say motor vibration is transferred to the blade. The blade can not be adjusted as high because of the motor diameter. The contractor's style hangs the motor out the back and couples --MORE--(9%) it to the blade via a belt. The blade is mounted on a spindle which is held in place and adjusted via mechanisms which attach to the underside of the table. The motor in the back takes more floor space but you can raise the blade higher than you can with direct drive. The cabinetmaker's style also uses a belt (or two or three) to drive the blade but the blade spindle mechanism is attached to the machine's cabinet instead of the tabletop. This makes it a bit easier to adjust the blade parallel to the miter slots. So what, you say, what's the big deal of direct drive vs belt drive? In my opinion, it's not that one is so much inherently better over the other as the industry has come to use these features to segment the market. So if you buy a belt-drive saw, it will automatically come with a nice cast-iron table top and sturdy yet precise blade adjustment mechanisms. Another simplified way of evaluating what class a table saw falls into is its weight. The lowest cost saws generally weigh around 100 pounds or so. The next category up weighs 200-250 pounds. The highest class weighs around 400 pounds. You can probably make a reasonable prediction of a saw's stability from how strong the mechanisms are and the weight --MORE--(24%) is in turn a good indication of that. It is possible that a manufacturer simply made a very heavy but sloppy saw but such a product would probably not last long on the market. Note that the Delta 34-670 does not fall neatly in these categories. On paper it would appear to be a clever combination of several factors. It has a (high speed universal?) motor in the cabinet driving the blade via a (small cogged?) belt. This produces a machine which requires floor space of a direct drive with the blade height of a belt drive. The universal motor provides high power (although it does not seem to be rated for horsepower, it is rated at 15 amps which is generally regarded as 1.5 HP) with low weight and low cost. The 34-670 is very light (130 pounds) and very reasonably priced (probably less than $300 on sale for a 1.5 HP saw with a cast iron top and belt drive). I have not personally used one of these machines but many people seem to like them and only one person has complained about one which may be an older model. One possible disadvantage is that universal motors are often noisier than induction motors. TABLE TOPS Most machines are still made of the traditional cast-iron. Some new machines are made of alternative materials such as aluminum. In --MORE--(39%) general, such products seem targeted more at the construction industry where portability is very important. Examples of such products are the Makita 2708W, the Ryobi BT2500 and BT3000 and the Skil 3102. Cast-iron is still one of the best materials in terms of rigidity. MOTORS A table saw should be powered by a TEFC motor, totally enclosed, fan cooled, to keep out saw dust. The most powerful motor you can run on 115V is 1.5 HP, which will draw around 15 amps. Such a motor can cost $200 or more. Many such motors can be wired to run on 220V, it is recommended you do this if possible as it will allow the motor to run cooler and last longer. WHICH ONE SHOULD YOU BUY? That depends. Of course. For a first saw, a Delta 34-670 or a contractor's style saw is probably a good bet. There seem to be many contractor's style clones. Delta's is probably very well made, while the others may or may not be. Grizzly has a good reputation for a Taiwanese clone. Sears seems to have a mediocre reputation but I know many people who use them. Here are some typical price points: --MORE--(52%) PRICE SAW $300 Delta 34-670 $400 Grizzly G1022 $500 Sear's Best $600 Delta 34-444 There are many factors which affect your final price such as sales tax, shipping, fence upgrade, saw blade etc. GRIZZLY Many people seem to have this saw and be happy with it. It seems equivalent to Sear's Best at a savings of around $100 or so, but you should expect to spend some time assembling it and fiddling with it. I do not know if other products require assembly, I assume so judging from what I have heard. I believe owners of dangerous machinery like table saws must know how to check their machines and make their own adjustments so I do not consider a need to adjust the G1022 after assembly to be a disadvantage. The cost savings was computed by adding the FOB charges for the G1022 (about $50) to its cost and comparing it to the cost of the Sears table saw with sales tax. --MORE--(62%) SEARS Sears seems to have a nearly infinite variety of table saws. They can be distinguished by direct drive vs belt drive, aluminum vs cast iron top, and motor size, 1 vs 1.5 HP. When evaluating Sears HP ratings, always look for the real HP, or if that is missing, amperage. Sears likes to advertise a "developed HP" rating that is about as useful as the "music power" rating was in the audio field. Sear's top of the line table saw goes for around $500. DELTA I do not personally own any Delta equipment but they seem to set the standard in the industry. If price is not that important and quality is, you should probably buy Delta. ADJUSTMENTS A table saw is dangerous! Aside from the obvious hazard of cutting something you don't want, there is the danger of kickback, where the blade grabs the material being cut and throws it at high speed. --MORE--(72%) Kickback can be caused in two different ways. The first way is if the kerf closes on the blade. Many table saws have kerf splitters to prevent this. The second way is if the blade is not parallel to the motion of the material, whether guided by the fence or the miter gauge. Consider a fence guide operation. Suppose the blade is tilted with regard to the fence so that the back of the blade is closer to the fence than the front. Then as the wood moves back, it gets compressed between the blade and the fence. Soon the blade grabs it and throws it at a few hundred miles per hour. If the blade is tilted such that the front is closer to the fence than the rear, then the wood between the blade and the fence will not run into any problems but the wood being cut off may decide it wants to experience the joy of flight. Table saws come with guards to reduce the injuries caused by such accidents but it is best to prevent such accidents by adjusting your table saw correctly. There are two primary adjustments. They must be made in the correct sequence because of the three elements, miter slot, saw blade, and --MORE--(85%) fence, one does not move, namely, the miter slot. The first adjustment is to make the saw blade parallel to the miter slot. With direct-drive or belt-drive this requires loosening the motor mount or the saw blade spindle mount and aligning it to the miter slot. Since these mechanisms mount on the underside of the table, the adjustment can be inconvenient. A cabinetmaker's style saw is easier to adjust in this regard because the spindle mounts to the cabinet and you can simply loosen the table and adjust it from the top of the table. The second adjustment is to make the fence parallel to the saw blade (or the miter slot since they should both be parallel at this point). There are other minor adjustments which may be needed. If your saw is belt drive, you want to align the motor pulley with the saw blade spindle pulley. Some saws also have adjustments for how tightly the gears mesh. DISCLAIMER This information is presented for your use at your own risk. No warranty of any kind, express or implied, is made. If you do not know what you are doing, get professional help. Free advice is worth what --MORE--(98%) you paid for it, and I am not a wood working professional. -- Stop casting porosity! What does that mean? End of article 4100 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4101 (110 more) in rec.woodworking: From: shaw@hpfcdj.HP.COM (Shaw Moldauer) Subject: Re: After market rip fence Message-ID: <19670019@hpfcdj.HP.COM> Date: 12 Aug 91 15:33:02 GMT References: <10034@drutx.ATT.COM> Organization: Hewlett Packard -- Fort Collins, CO Lines: 25 >I'm in the market for an after-market rip fence for my 10" Craftsman >table saw. (No snide remarks. It was a gift from my in-laws >before I had any tools). I have a set of 3 good Frued carbide blades and >am fairly comfortable with the results, but the rip fence >is driving me crazy. I went down to Schlosser Tools here in >Denver where they told me the Delta Unifence could not be put >on a Craftsman saw. They also said the Beisemeyer would work, >but I'd have to drill holes into the cast iron table top >to get it to fit. I have a catalog from Tools on Sale >that says the Unifence DOES fit other saws, including Craftsman. >Has anyone out there put an aftermarket fence on a Craftsman saw? >What kind? How difficult was it to install? >Al Pessot --MORE--(66%) I put a Beis.. on my contractors saw. They want all sorts of info on the saw, but you end up drilling the table anyway. It was easy to install, took very little time, and ended up very square. The upgrade was well worth the time, effort, and $. The resulting table is around seven feet wide and six and a half deep (ie. no friends or rollers to cut full sheets). Also put router in the right side of table with an additional mitre slot. Can't comment on Unifence, but Beis.. should fit any saw. Several other fences would work also. -Shaw End of article 4101 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4102 (109 more) in rec.woodworking: From: jim@muvms3.bitnet Subject: Re: Finishing doors Message-ID: <58202@muvms3.bitnet> Date: 12 Aug 91 12:50:56 GMT References: <1991Aug8.155513.7866@Think.COM> Distribution: usa Organization: Marshall University Lines: 22 In article <1991Aug8.155513.7866@Think.COM>, steveo@think.com (stephen anthony) writes: > I have a couple of interior doors (6 panel pine; ie Bible & Cross) that I'd > like to finish such that the grain is noticable, but the color is a off > white. On an old NYW, Normie uses a alkyd paint and rubs the paint off > after it's set for a couple of minutes. IE, he uses the paint like a stain. > This seems to be the finish I'm after. > > Has anyone tried this? Comments on the procedure? Would I be better off > getting a can of Cabots (or some such brand) color stain and using that, > and if so, what about the finish? Should I varnish over it? > -- --MORE--(68%) Minwax has some new stain in pastel colors and one of them I believe is an off white. I am thinking of using later on 1 x 8 pine paneling in a family room. Let me know what you think of it if you choose to use it. -- Jim Richendollar BITNET: jim@marshall Mgr. Prog./Analysis & DBA Internet: jim@marshall.wvnet.edu Marshall University Computer Center Phone: (304)696-3203 Huntington, WV 25755-5320 FAX: (304)696-3601 End of article 4102 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4103 (108 more) in rec.woodworking: From: harris@sdd.hp.com (John Harris) Subject: Four Poster Bed Message-ID: <1991Aug13.083800@sdd.hp.com> Date: 13 Aug 91 15:38:00 GMT Sender: news@sdd.hp.com (Usenet News) Reply-To: harris@sdd.hp.com (John Harris) Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Division Lines: 20 Nntp-Posting-Host: hpsdl233.sdd.hp.com I am thinking of making a four poster bed. I have read a few articles from "Fine Woodworking" magazine but was wondering if anyone has any experience making this type of project? Specifically, I want to make period turned posts and not pencil posts. Are there any plans that anyone knows of? If not, how about a good book showing various styles or photos of reproductions? From what I have read, the posts should be about 3 inches in diameter. I will have to turn the posts in 2 sections and join them later. I read in "Fine Woodworking on Chairs and Beds" that the mortise should drilled first before the post is turned to make sure it is exactly in the middle. A steel plug can be used with a live center to mount --MORE--(89%) the post on the lathe. Has anyone tried this technique? Any advice would be appreciated. John Harris harris@sdd.hp.com End of article 4103 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4104 (107 more) in rec.woodworking: From: hamlow@sptekwv4.tek.com (Paul Hamlow) Subject: Re: Forrest Woodworker II Message-ID: <11443@orca.wv.tek.com> Date: 13 Aug 91 16:04:23 GMT References: <1991Aug13.042239.28150@amd.com> Sender: nobody@orca.wv.tek.com Reply-To: hamlow@orca.tek.com (Paul Hamlow) Organization: /usr/ens/etc/organization Lines: 15 I bought this blade at the woodworking show in Portland last fall. They had a discount if you bought two blades so a friend went in with me and we split the cost. I think I paid about $90. The blade works wonderfully on my Delta Contractors' saw. I didn't get the stiffeners but I think perhaps I should have. There is just the slightest amount of marking from the blade, but then I've never done a thorough adjustment on the saw so it may not be true. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --MORE--(81%) Paul Hamlow MS 60-850 | hamlow@orca.WV.TEK.COM | INTERNET Tektronix, Inc | (USA) (503) 685-2336 | VOICE P.O. Box 1000 | (USA) (503) 682-1500 | FAX End of article 4104 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4105 (106 more) in rec.woodworking: From: svr@gumbee.mlb.semi.harris.com (Susan Richmond) Subject: Refinishing cane and Rattan furniture Message-ID: <1991Aug13.174615.29195@mlb.semi.harris.com> Date: 13 Aug 91 17:46:15 GMT References: <1991Aug1.163606.11848@a md.com> Sender: news@mlb.semi.harris.com Distribution: usa Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL Lines: 15 Nntp-Posting-Host: gumbee.mlb.semi.harris.com I recently bought some rattan furniture at a garage sale. Some of it is the finely woven type with intricate detail and some is the thick cane type that has been moulded to body contours. The first thing I did was to wash it with water which left white patchy marks on areas that receive lots of wear such as arm rests... I now would like to strip and refinish it. Can anyone make a recommendation as to what type of stripper would not damage the cane and how can I remove shellac from fine detail. One piece has been stained a dark color and the other is --MORE--(92%) natural with shellac... Thanks in advance.... any help will be appreciated!! Susan r. End of article 4105 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4106 (105 more) in rec.woodworking: From: steinberg@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com Subject: Re: Delta 34-670 (Was: Table Saw Motors) Message-ID: <1991Aug13.130712.5379@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> Date: 13 Aug 91 18:07:12 GMT References: <1991Jul29.162458.4164@mlb.semi.harris.com> <5650044@hplsla.HP.COM> <1991Aug12.135806.7030@infonode.ingr.com> Lines: 18 I too own a 34-670, though the way I got it was a little different. A store here in Cleveland had a special offer (with coupon) of a "reconditioned" unit for $329, with a $99 Ryobi drill-driver thrown in to boot. So far I've used the Ryobi a lot more than the Delta, but I have to concur with some of the complaint posting. The motor is _deafening_ and the splitter is dangerous. I do have some questions. My fence rides on square channels - some pictures show tubular ones. Am I correct in assuming the new design is tubular? Also, the fence has an adjustment screw which the manual says nothing about - how should it be set? Since I haven't had any time to fiddle with it, I will reserve a final opinion on the saw for later. I do really like the Ryobi, however. --MORE--(91%) David Steinberg steinberg@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com "Man's Head Hits Wall - $10000 Falls Out" (real headline) End of article 4106 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4107 (104 more) in rec.woodworking: From: chrisi@lloyd.Camex.COM (Chris Ischay) Subject: Re: Linseed Oil: What are the applications? Message-ID: <2286@camex.COM> Date: 13 Aug 91 19:38:00 GMT References: <1991Aug8.155507.3214@newcastle.ac.uk> <1991Aug9.195200.12301@hubcap .clemson.edu> <15250@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU> Sender: news@Camex.COM Organization: Camex Inc., Boston MA Lines: 26 In article <15250@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU> sbhattac@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU (Shankar Bhattac haryya) writes: >Linseed oil is no more likely to ignite, under any circumstances, than any >vegetable oil, excluding assorted second and third order effects. Nor is it >likely to react with anything in the rags, unless someone has dosed the >rags with some serious oxidant. But it is combustible, and, once ignited, >will burn pretty much as will any cooking fat. >However, if the oil is diluted with some solvent, to thin it, more or less >spontaneous ignition is possible, given a small spark. But that should >surprise nobody. That is a property of the thinning agent, not of the oil. --MORE--(65%) This sounds like bad and dangerous information to me. While I have never had the pleasure of causing spontaneous combustion myself, I have put out fires that got started that way. Oily rags do indeed heat up when thrown in a pile. It has nothing to do with ignition from sparks. My understanding is that the oil oxidizes which lets off heat. More and more heat and whoosh you got a fire. Maybe this is the second or third order effect the writer refers to. I don't care what order effect it is when my back porch catches fire though. Any fireperson/woodworker/chemists out there? Chris Ischay chrisi@bos.camex.com End of article 4107 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4108 (103 more) in rec.woodworking: From: kilroy@gboro.glassboro.edu (Dr Nancy's Sweetie) Subject: What to say when someone wants to borrow tools? Message-ID: <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> Date: 13 Aug 91 06:06:39 GMT Organization: Glassboro State College Lines: 50 My father has a rather nice collection of woodworking tools; he has some Craftsman equipment purchased in the early '60s which is still like new. (His table saw, eg, looks like it just came out of the box, and his drill has only ever needed one repair: a new cord.) He often assists other people in planning home improvements (he is an engineer), and he has lent them his tools to work with. This has all gone on rather well for over twenty years. However, the new next-door neighbor is, shall we say, less than competent. He borrowed my father's Craftsman Commercial Circular Saw (a very nice machine), and promptly ruined the plywood blade. He also sets saw down in the dirt without letting the guard swing back into position. --MORE--(36%) The one time I saw him use the saw he made a cut and then started to back the saw out without letting it come to a stop. Needless to say, he did not move it perfectly straight and the blade bit into the wood. The kick almost knocked him on the ground. With some good foresight, one can establish a policy of never lending power tools (I have done so after this weekend); but it is already well-known that my father *does* lend them. The new neighbors include one of my mother's customers and my sister-in-law's best friend, so saying "You are a bozo and I am taking my saw before you kill yourself" is not really an option. And while my father has four sons, saying "David has the circular saw, he's making a deck" is not really an option because my father is a lousy liar. (He has essentially no practice, being encumbered with scruples.) It might be possible for David to *take* the saw, making the statement true, but that is not entirely convenient should my father want it. My dad could *adopt* a "No Loans" policy, and provide some anonymous story of a person who used a tool incorrectly, but the reply would be "But I used it before and you saw how careful I was". So now we're back to where we started. I figured that some of you may have encountered situations like this before; --MORE--(80%) a person you have to live with and can't offend, but who does not read directions or care properly for tools. The only thing I can think of is to take the saw apart for maintenance purposes and never get around to reassembling it (until my father needs it, of course). Does anybody have any non-offensive ways to suggest to someone who believes himself highly skilled that he is actually incompetent? What do people do about lending tools? kilroy@gboro.glassboro.edu Darren F. Provine ...njin!gboro!kilroy "Neither a borrower nor a lender be." -- Polonius End of article 4108 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4109 (102 more) in rec.woodworking: From: marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (Randy Marks) Subject: Re: What to say when someone wants to borrow tools? Message-ID: <3820@shodha.enet.dec.com> Date: 13 Aug 91 22:18:12 GMT Sender: news@shodha.enet.dec.com Distribution: na Organization: Digital Equipment Corp. - Colorado Springs Lines: 22 >Does anybody have any non-offensive ways to suggest to someone who believes >himself highly skilled that he is actually incompetent? What do people do >about lending tools? I've never done this, but one possibility would be to lend the tool w/o blade/bit/etc. That way you are sounding cooperative (you are willing to lend the tool), but the borrower has to provide his/her own blades or bits. There would be a certain amount of contemplation that the potential borrower would then go through. Buying blades/bits for tools which you don't even own may cause the potential borrower to rationalize and end up buying the tool as well. After all, many power tools these --MORE--(72%) days come packaged with blades/bits/etc. Randy Marks (UUCP) {decvax,ucbvax,allegra}!decwrl!ssdevo.enet!marks (INTERNET) marks@ssdevo.enet.dec.com (domain-based INTERNET) marks%ssdevo.enet@decwrl.dec.com .......................................................................... From rare places come rare experiences. .......................................................................... End of article 4109 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4110 (101 more) in rec.woodworking: From: andy@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Andy Michael USGS Guest) Subject: Re: What to say when someone wants to borrow tools? Message-ID: <1991Aug13.202412.15633@morrow.stanford.edu> Date: 13 Aug 91 20:24:12 GMT References: <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> Sender: news@morrow.stanford.edu (News Service) Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 14 In article <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> kilroy@gboro.glassboro.edu (Dr Nancy's Swe etie) writes: >Does anybody have any non-offensive ways to suggest to someone who believes >himself highly skilled that he is actually incompetent? What do people do >about lending tools? The competency problem is tough, but I see no problem with lending tools to people without the blades. At least that leaves them responsible for the most easily ruined part. BTW, I have borrowed tools on this basis and didn't mind doing it. In fact I gave them the blade and an extra when I was done as a thank you for the tool. It's only a partial solution, but its all I can think of. --MORE--(99%) Andy End of article 4110 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4111 (100 more) in rec.woodworking: From: dgolber@aero.org (Dave Golber) Subject: Re: How do they do it in Scandinavia? Message-ID: <1991Aug14.005140.13776@aero.org> Date: 14 Aug 91 00:51:40 GMT Sender: news@aero.org Organization: The Aerospace Corporation Lines: 26 In article <3260090@hpdtczb.HP.COM> rog@hpdtczb.HP.COM (Roger Haaheim) writes: >I have just returned from Scandinavia and was thoroughly impressed by >the quality of finishes they have on their wood. Many of the houses use >wood throughout. Some of them have used finishes like I see in our >stores; linseed oil, tung oil, varnish, shellac, etc. > >However, in one house the wood walls and ceilings were absolutely >natural in color (no yellowing on application of the finish). The color >of the wood was exactly the same as a freshly planed board (pine). I >asked the owner what he or the contractor used to get such a beautiful >and natural finish. He didn't know how to translate the stuff into >english, and the closest he could come to describing it was that it was >some kind of soap, followed by an application of a very light oil. >Apparently the "soap" sealed the pores so that the oil would not --MORE--(78%) >penetrate and cause yellowing. > >Has anyone any idea of what he was describing, or how to get the same >quality finish? Norway: I think sometimes they just leave the wood bare. When and if it gets dirty, just sand it a little. I did hear about using a little oil with this sanding. I'll see if I can get some more info. Dave Golber End of article 4111 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4112 (99 more) in rec.woodworking: From: furlong@jgalt.cxn.dec.com (Alyn K. Furlong) Subject: Re: What to say when someone wants to borrow tools? Message-ID: <1991Aug13.180037@jgalt.cxn.dec.com> Date: 14 Aug 91 00:00:37 GMT References: <1991Aug13.15725.8516@biostr.washington.edu> <1207@gboro.glassboro.e du> Sender: news@shodha.enet.dec.com Reply-To: furlong@jgalt.cxn.dec.com (Alyn K. Furlong) Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation Lines: 14 On borrowing tools..... My Grandmother loaned her lawnmower to a 17 year old neighbor. The kid had his foot on the wheel when he pulled the starting cord. His foot slipped off the wheel, the lawnmower came up in the air and started, then came down on his foot. The foot was saved, but it was a mess. There were extensive medical bills. The kid's family sued my Grandmother and won! Still want to loan your tools to incompetents?!? --MORE--(91%) +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Alyn K. Furlong, self-opinionated End of article 4112 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4113 (98 more) in rec.woodworking: From: rog@hpdtczb.HP.COM (Roger Haaheim) Subject: How do they do it in Scandinavia? Message-ID: <3260090@hpdtczb.HP.COM> Date: 12 Aug 91 16:58:43 GMT Organization: HP Design Tech Center - Santa Clara, CA Lines: 17 I have just returned from Scandinavia and was thoroughly impressed by the quality of finishes they have on their wood. Many of the houses use wood throughout. Some of them have used finishes like I see in our stores; linseed oil, tung oil, varnish, shellac, etc. However, in one house the wood walls and ceilings were absolutely natural in color (no yellowing on application of the finish). The color of the wood was exactly the same as a freshly planed board (pine). I asked the owner what he or the contractor used to get such a beautiful and natural finish. He didn't know how to translate the stuff into english, and the closest he could come to describing it was that it was some kind of soap, followed by an application of a very light oil. Apparently the "soap" sealed the pores so that the oil would not penetrate and cause yellowing. --MORE--(93%) Has anyone any idea of what he was describing, or how to get the same quality finish? End of article 4113 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4114 (97 more) in rec.woodworking: From: kraig@biostr.washington.edu (Kraig Eno) Subject: Re: What to say when someone wants to borrow tools? Message-ID: <1991Aug13.15725.8516@biostr.washington.edu> Date: 13 Aug 91 22:13:16 GMT References: <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> Sender: news@milton.u.washington.edu (News) Organization: Univ. of Washington Lines: 44 In article <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> kilroy@gboro.glassboro.edu (Dr Nancy's Sweetie) writes: > Does anybody have any non-offensive ways to suggest to someone who > believes himself highly skilled that he is actually incompetent? What do > people do about lending tools? Personally, I never lend anyone my stuff (tools or otherwise) unless I'm prepared for the possibility that it won't come back. And Andy Michael's suggestion about lending the tool sans blade is a good one. That said, I think the best way to tell a person he's incompetent is to bite the bullet and say, "Here, let me help you with your project." It requires more time and care, but you get to go demonstrate the proper --MORE--(38%) technique and judge for yourself whether the borrower is doing it right. Moreover, any comments you have about his technique should appear constructive because your willingness to serve earns his respect. The drawback is that if he's totally incapable of learning the technique, you may end up having to do the whole job with him. (But using a circular saw properly really isn't that hard, is it?) If he says, "Oh, that's not the way I learned how to do it, I prefer the dangerous way" then you say "It's my tool, please do it my way anyhow". If he can't accept that, then it's probably not worth bothering with such a person. After all, it's YOUR tool and they should at least be grateful enough to comply with your wishes. If the neighbor thinks he doesn't have to be shown at all, then try this trick: "Have you ever used the Craftsman XQP-10? It's got some quirks that you should know about....I find I have best luck with it if I X" where X might be "don't leave it out in the rain" or "avoid sawing through nails" or "use both hands, placed here and here". Or all of the above. I'm not a good liar either (I'm like your dad, encumbered by scruples) but it's fun to act a little bit sometimes. The above is a good way to advise them about your particular expectations about your tools without commenting about their previous experience using similar tools. I do the --MORE--(85%) same thing when I let people drive my car ("this is the HF model, the engine is factory tuned for RPM's in the range of 2000-3000 and, unlike other cars you may have driven, you shouldn't drive THIS car at a constant 5000 RPM because blah blah blah techno-babble blah blah blah") Kraig Eno, kraig@biostr.washington.edu "Chimneys rise from man's domain, the sky returns the acid rain; Heaven's gift with human stain." -- Tom Howard End of article 4114 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4115 (96 more) in rec.woodworking: From: sbhattac@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU (Shankar Bhattacharyya) Subject: Re: Linseed Oil: What are the applications? Message-ID: <15314@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU> Date: 13 Aug 91 22:42:46 GMT References: <1991Aug9.195200.12301@hubcap.clemson.edu> <15250@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU> <2286@camex.COM> Organization: NYU Stern School of Business Lines: 39 In article <2286@camex.COM> chrisi@lloyd.Camex.COM (Chris Ischay) writes: >In article <15250@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU> sbhattac@sales.GBA.NYU.EDU (Shankar Bhatta charyya) writes: >>However, if the oil is diluted with some solvent, to thin it, more or less >>spontaneous ignition is possible, given a small spark. But that should >>surprise nobody. That is a property of the thinning agent, not of the oil. >This sounds like bad and dangerous information to me. While I have never >had the pleasure of causing spontaneous combustion myself, I have put out --MORE--(44%) >fires that got started that way. Oily rags do indeed heat up when thrown >in a pile. It has nothing to do with ignition from sparks. My >understanding is that the oil oxidizes which lets off heat. More and >more heat and whoosh you got a fire. >Maybe this is the second or third order effect the writer refers to. >I don't care what order effect it is when my back porch catches fire >though. >Any fireperson/woodworker/chemists out there? I posted the article that Chris Ischay responded to. I'm a woodworker/chemist. I based what I said on what I know about triglycerides, which is a fair bit, but I was not aware of the catalysts added to linseed oil to accelerate polymerization. It is quite possible that that makes enough difference to reaction rates that ignition is possible. Given how emphatic the response has been that fires are indeed possible from the heat of polymerization, with accounts of personal experience, I accept that my opinion of how pure linseed oil behaves has little to do with how the products used for finishing wood behave. That being the case, acting on my information would have been dangerous, for others as well as for me. --MORE--(94%) My apologies to the net. And, while it is embarrassing to be so publicly wrong, at least I'm wiser for the experience. - Shankar End of article 4115 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4116 (95 more) in rec.woodworking: From: wojcik@crl.dec.com (Ted Wojcik) Subject: Re: What to say when someone wants to borrow tools? Message-ID: <1991Aug13.235811.7564@crl.dec.com> Date: 13 Aug 91 23:58:11 GMT References: <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> <1991Aug13.15725.8516@biostr.washington.e du> Sender: news@crl.dec.com (USENET News System) Reply-To: wojcik@crl.dec.com Organization: DEC Cambridge Research Lab Lines: 28 In article <1991Aug13.15725.8516@biostr.washington.edu>, kraig@biostr.washington .edu (Kraig Eno) writes: > In article <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> kilroy@gboro.glassboro.edu (Dr > Nancy's Sweetie) writes: > > Does anybody have any non-offensive ways to suggest to someone who > > believes himself highly skilled that he is actually incompetent? What do > > people do about lending tools? > An auto mechanic father of a friend had a simple rule: you can't borrow, you ca n buy. --MORE--(48%) He'd sell you any tool in his box, on the spot, and replace it. He didn't get m any takers from what he told me. Wrenches are cheaper than power tools but if disco uraging borrowing is what you are after, it probably works in most cases. In the rest, you get to buy a new tool. Judging the competency of any individual strikes me as highl y subjective and opens up a Pandora's box of arguments and counter-arguments. You might as well consider it your moral responsiblility to protect the "incompetent" from themselves and do the work. I have a hard enough time keeping all of my fingers never mind protecting someone else from himself. -- Standard Disclaimer: The opinions expressed above are those of the author and do not represent the official views of Digital Equipment Corporation. Ted Wojcik, Systems Manager (and aspiring cabinetmaker) (wojcik@crl.dec.com) --MORE--(93%) Digital Equipment Corporation, Cambridge Research Lab 1 Kendall Sq. Bldg. 700 Flr. 2 Cambridge, MA, 02139, USA (617)621-6652 End of article 4116 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4117 (94 more) in rec.woodworking: From: morreale@bierstadt.scd.ucar.edu (Peter Morreale) Subject: Re: What to say when someone wants to borrow tools? Message-ID: <12521@ncar.ucar.edu> Date: 14 Aug 91 02:24:16 GMT References: <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> Sender: news@ncar.ucar.edu Reply-To: morreale@bierstadt.scd.ucar.edu (Peter Morreale) Organization: Scientific Computing Division / NCAR, Boulder Co. Lines: 58 In article <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu>, kilroy@gboro.glassboro.edu (Dr Nancy's Sw eetie) writes: > > > I figured that some of you may have encountered situations like this before; > a person you have to live with and can't offend, but who does not read > directions or care properly for tools. > In the past year I've finished the following jobs: 1) Complete kitchen remodel, including custom countertops, --MORE--(38%) electrical, and plumbing. (literally gutted the kitchen and started over) 2) 25' counter top for a real estate agent "friend". ;-) 3) Two kitchen counter-top replacements. 4) conversion of a closet into a desk system with shelves, counter-tops, etc.. 5) Partial remodel of a garage. 5) Yet another complete kitchen cabinet install (again with custom counter-tops) 6) finish-up of a vacation home. 7) several sets of oak shelves. With two exceptions, all were "free" jobs (for friends). Most all the "free" jobs began with the question "Hey Pete, could I borrow....." :-) --MORE--(64%) I'm afraid my solution is to offer to help, and use my tools myself. And since I was so busy, it was easy to turn down a couple of more requests.... I absolutely refuse to to lend out my tools. Before I started in computing a few years back, they were my lifeblood. On the other hand, I can't seem to say no very well either. I feel for your father. It's a tough spot to be in. Fortunately, I enjoy the work alot. (although I'm d*mm sick of contact cement and formica.... ;-) > "Neither a borrower nor a lender be." -- Polonius How true. -PWM ------------------------------------------------------------------ Peter W. Morreale email: morreale@ncar.ucar.edu Nat'l Center for Atmos Research voice: (303) 497-1293 Scientific Computing Division Consulting Office --MORE--(97%) ------------------------------------------------------------------ End of article 4117 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4118 (93 more) in rec.woodworking: From: u4944@snoid.cray.com (Charles Hubbert) Subject: Bridges, yard sized Message-ID: <204218.24262@timbuk.cray.com> Date: 14 Aug 91 01:42:18 GMT Distribution: usa Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Lines: 10 Originator: u4944@snoid I would like to build a bridge to the back part of our property. I need a length of probably 10', width of 6' - 8' (I'd like to pull a trailer over it), and it needs to be heavy enough to drive a garden tractor over. Can any one point me to plans or a book with ideas? Thanks... -- Chuck Hubbert u4944@snoid.cray.com tel# 313/574-8159 End of article 4118 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4119 (92 more) in rec.woodworking: From: hsc@stroid.sybase.com (Howard Cohen) Subject: Re: Linseed Oil: What are the applications? Message-ID: <14338@sybase.sybase.com> Date: 12 Aug 91 15:45:45 GMT References: <1991Aug07.200818.27120@sat.com> <1991Aug8.155507.3214@newcastle.ac. uk> Sender: news@Sybase.COM Organization: Sybase, Inc. Lines: 23 In article <1991Aug8.155507.3214@newcastle.ac.uk> D.I.Wood@newcastle.ac.uk (Iain Wood) writes: >tak@sat.com writes: >>What are the dangers? (I know about its inflammability) > >Linseed is not that easy to ignite, I would say the dangers were very >small. (Must admit I have never boiled my own though) > Perhaps the immediate flamability is not too serious, but linseed oil is known for a more insidious safety problem: spontaneous combustion. Linseed oil soaked --MORE--(56%) rags can spontaneously combust even in a closed container! I can't explain this, but I've been warned. As far as I know, a pile of linseed oil soaked rags is a fire hazard. Probably the best way to prevent them from spontaneously catching fire is to hang them outside on a drying line where there is a steady supply of air to prevent any combustible fumes from building up. I think that once the oil has dried in the rags, that they are no longer a hazard. Howard ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen hsc@sybase.com {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc Sybase, Inc. 6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 415-596-3406 End of article 4119 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4120 (91 more) in rec.woodworking: From: hsc@stroid.sybase.com (Howard Cohen) Subject: Re: Problem with cutting circles on my bandsaw Message-ID: <14372@sybase.sybase.com> Date: 13 Aug 91 16:29:27 GMT References: <31967@drilex.UUCP> <14247@sybase.sybase.com> <1991Aug9.153117.12277 @murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> <1991Aug9.154928.12446@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> Sender: news@Sybase.COM Distribution: usa Organization: Sybase, Inc. Lines: 30 In article <1991Aug9.154928.12446@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> sgs8r@kelvin.seas.Vi rginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu) writes: >Here's the problem. The blade seems to get pushed out of alignment, eventually >binding so I have to stop and back out. It is as if I'm trying to cut too small >a radius, or as if the blade has no set. The blade is the standard Delta 1/4", >and "seems" to have normal set (though I'm not sure what that is). And my >tension seems right (though I often forget to release it when I'm not using the >saw, so it may be a bit off). > --MORE--(49%) >Any suggestions? Thanks. > >-Steve Strickland > sgs8r@virginia.edu I haven't tried this, but I've seen such jigs. I'm guessing, but I wonder if the position of the pivot pin with regard to the blade is the source of the problem. If the pivot pin is slightly in front of the blade, the rotation of the wood I would think would tend to pull the blade to the right (toward the pivot pin). Similarly, if the pivot pin is slightly behind the blade, it would tend to push the blade the other direction. So observe which way the blade is being deflected, and change your pivot pin location accordingly. I see this as analagous to the problem of resawing on a bandsaw. Some blades tend to wander off in one direction. The solution is to feed the wood at an appropriate angle to compensate. I'd bet that your jig slides in the miter gauge slot to allow for just this kind of adjustment. Howard ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Howard "I wood if I could" Cohen hsc@sybase.com {pacbell,pyramid,sun,{uunet,ucbvax}!mtxinu}!sybase!hsc Sybase, Inc. 6475 Christie Avenue, Emeryville, CA 94608, 415-596-3406 End of article 4120 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4121 (90 more) in rec.woodworking: From: evh@genie.slhs.udel.edu (Troy Saville) Subject: Re: What to say when someone wants to borrow tools? Message-ID: <1991Aug14.025124.27756@genie.slhs.udel.edu> Date: 14 Aug 91 02:51:24 GMT References: <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> Organization: UDel, School of Life & Health Sciences Lines: 27 In article <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> kilroy@gboro.glassboro.edu (Dr Nancy's Swe etie) writes: > >My father has a rather nice collection of woodworking tools; he has some >Craftsman equipment purchased in the early '60s which is still like new. >(His table saw, eg, looks like it just came out of the box, and his drill > has only ever needed one repair: a new cord.) > >He often assists other people in planning home improvements (he is an >engineer), and he has lent them his tools to work with. This has all gone >on rather well for over twenty years. > >However, the new next-door neighbor is, shall we say, less than competent. >He borrowed my father's Craftsman Commercial Circular Saw (a very nice --MORE--(68%) >machine), and promptly ruined the plywood blade. He also sets saw down in >the dirt without letting the guard swing back into position. How about saying "No, I don't lend my tools out anymore. because i lent them out once and they came back in less than ideal condition". And if he keeps pressing to borrow them, say 'I'd rather not'. "I didn't tell a lie, i just didn't tell the truth!" -- - Andy McMillions PDGA Super Tour, Sept. 14/15, 1st ST EVER held in region 1 evh@genie.slhs.udel.edu End of article 4121 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4122 (89 more) in rec.woodworking: From: styborsk@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Randy K. Styborski) Subject: Re: Has anyone used Bartley Gel Stains? Message-ID: <4920052@hpspkla.spk.hp.com> Date: 14 Aug 91 01:31:48 GMT References: Organization: Hewlett Packard Company, Spokane, Wa. Lines: 21 I am in the process of using Bartley Gel stain to finish Honduras Mahogany boards for a weather station plaque. It is going well and I like the product. I mixed the mahogany color with the cherry color to get a red-brown (personal favorite). I have noticed that if you work on a large area (even a small area :-() and don't wipe it soon enough it gets very tacky and hard to wipe (blotchy). It might be that my small tub of stain is drying out, though (I'm not sure). I called Bartley and found out that the proper thinner is mineral spirits, so I intend to lightly wipe a blotched board to try to even up the coat. I may also thin my working mixture to see if it helps. Overall, I must say that I am pleased with the results. It isn't foolproof, but it is pretty easy. The stain actually contains varnish too, so the results look pretty good from the second coat onward. Then you use --MORE--(81%) multiple coats of the stain to darken and varnish to add gloss. By the way, this stuff doesn't appreciably darken end grain that has been sanded to 320 grit (a nice change from Watco). P.S.- Honduras Mahogany is VERY nice to work with. A little soft, but very easily machined (hand tools). End of article 4122 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4123 (88 more) in rec.woodworking: From: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) Subject: Re: table saw guide Message-ID: <2470@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> Date: 14 Aug 91 05:48:19 GMT References: <1991Aug13.055308.420@amd.com> Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada Lines: 54 In article <1991Aug13.055308.420@amd.com> phil@brahms.amd.com (Phil Ngai) writes : Good summary of the BH&G Wood article. I studied it long and hard before finally deciding (and a sale at Canadian Tire helped). I was tending towards the General 350-1 (added advantage of being Canadian made), but it lists at 1300 US, which is more than a little steep. Another saw I liked was the new Delta cabinet makers saw (36-755?), but that was still 1200 CDN on sale. Looked high and low for a source of used General equipment, but everybody said that General's rep is such that no dealer in used equipment can keep 'em in his shop more than a day or two. The worst part of it was that the Wood article is absolutely riddled with typos (big hunks of the comparison table is scrambled (ie: the B&D cheapie --MORE--(39%) 8" saw puts out 7.5HP using 1A at 110 volts!), get model numbers wrong, and really doesn't say much at all about individual saws. Another error with the 34-670 was that the table claims it uses flat iron for the fence rails. Wrongo. Mine's tubular. >Note that the Delta 34-670 does not fall neatly in these categories. >The universal motor provides high power (although it does not >seem to be rated for horsepower, it is rated at 15 amps which is >generally regarded as 1.5 HP) with low weight and low cost. The book and plate rating for the motor is 2HP. Which is a little silly, but less silly than the idiotic router makers that claim 3HP off a 15A 110V circuit. I'm not sure that it's a universal motor - the table is rife with errors. Having a belt would suggest that it is an induction motor. >One possible disadvantage is that >universal motors are often noisier than induction motors. Mine's not that noisy. >GRIZZLY --MORE--(70%) >Many people seem to have this saw and be happy with it. It seems >equivalent to Sear's Best at a savings of around $100 or so, but you >should expect to spend some time assembling it and fiddling with it. I >do not know if other products require assembly, I assume so judging >from what I have heard. I believe owners of dangerous machinery like >table saws must know how to check their machines and make their own >adjustments so I do not consider a need to adjust the G1022 after >assembly to be a disadvantage. I've been hearing how people have to modify the thing to get it together. That doesn't count as "adjustments", more like post-manufacturing defect repair. -- Chris Lewis; UUCP: ...!{cunews,uunet,latour}!ecicrl!clewis; DOMAIN: clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541 Psroff info: psroff-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca Ferret mailing list: ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca End of article 4123 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4124 (87 more) in rec.woodworking: From: susan@uvmark.uucp (Susan Todhunter - (JWT)) Subject: Re: What to say when someone wants to borrow tools? Message-ID: <1991Aug14.035657.37527@uvmark.uucp> Date: 14 Aug 91 03:56:57 GMT References: <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> <1991Aug13.202412.15633@morrow.stanford.e du> Organization: Vmark Software, Inc. Lines: 17 (Deleted question about how not to lend expensive/dangerous tools to someone who handles them with neither care nor skill) Could your father TEACH this guy why he needs to handle the tools properly, and how to do it? If this is not possible, honesty might be the best policy, as in, "I am not comfortable lending you this tool because I have seen you use it in a manner I consider unsafe. I would not want to be--even indirectly--responsible for harm coming to you." -- --MORE--(91%) Susan Todhunter Internet: uvmark!susan@merk.com, UUCP: uunet!merk!uvmark!susan End of article 4124 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4125 (86 more) in rec.woodworking: From: jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov (Jim Jagielski) Subject: Re: Delta 34-670 (Was: Table Saw Motors) Message-ID: <213@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov> Date: 14 Aug 91 11:31:47 GMT References: <1991Jul29.162458.4164@mlb.semi.harris.com> <5650044@hplsla.HP.COM> <1991Aug12.135806.7030@infonode.ingr.com> <1991Aug13.130712.5379@iccgcc.decnet. ab.com> Sender: news@dftsrv.gsfc.nasa.gov Reply-To: jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov (Jim Jagielski) Organization: NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center Lines: 44 steinberg@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com writes: >I too own a 34-670 > The motor is _deafening_ and the splitter is dangerous. >I do have some questions. My fence rides on square channels - some pictures >show tubular ones. Am I correct in assuming the new design is tubular? Also, >the fence has an adjustment screw which the manual says nothing about - how >should it be set? --MORE--(33%) Yep, the newer 34-670 has a new fence system that allows for the fence to be moved to the left of the blade (which is required for raised panels on a table saw) without moving the rails... the old saw had rails that were maybe 27 inches, so if you couldn't rip 24" and then move the fence to the left without moving the rail... :( My first saw was the 34-670 and I still have the part's list for it. It was a nice saw with good enough power. Even though it's "belt-driven" (meaning simply that it's NOT a direct-drive, there's a belt that connects the motor to the saw arbor but all this is IN the motor housing), the mechanisms are closer to direct-drive saws. Still, vibration was relatively minimal. For all I asked it to do, it did fine. The one thing that did "concern" my was the blade speed: 5500RPM. A lot of wobble-dado blades as well as moulding heads are'd spec'd at this high a speed. I still used 'em, but boy that was stupid. As I recall, the fence (the "famous" Jet-Lock... Ack!) had two screws on the fence top front, one on the top back and the "tightness" screw on the front front. I never bothered with the back one, which just secured the back-clamp (which clamps the back rail) to the fence... all alignment was done with the top front ones. Of course, I had trouble keeping the thing aligned so maybe by tweaking that back-clamp, it may have been better... I doubt it though ;) I've seen this saw advertised for $299 at some sales... If you DEMAND Delta --MORE--(84%) and have only a few bucks, this might be a good choice, despite it's "limita- tions". -- ============================================================================== #include Jim Jagielski NASA/GSFC, Code 711.4 jim@jagubox.gsfc.nasa.gov Greenbelt, MD 20771 "...there is no cannibalism in the British Navy. Absolutely none. And when I say none, I mean there is a certain amount..." End of article 4125 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4126 (85 more) in rec.woodworking: From: luoni@bosco.mlb.semi.harris.com (Perry Luoni) Subject: Re: Problem with cutting circles on my bandsaw Keywords: table saw circles Message-ID: <1991Aug14.130653.14349@mlb.semi.harris.com> Date: 14 Aug 91 13:06:53 GMT References: <1991Aug9.153117.12277@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> <1991Aug9.154928.12 446@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> <14372@sybase.sybase.com> Sender: news@mlb.semi.harris.com Distribution: usa Organization: Harris Semiconductor, Melbourne FL Lines: 23 In article <14372@sybase.sybase.com> hsc@stroid.sybase.com (Howard Cohen) writes : >In article <1991Aug9.154928.12446@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> sgs8r@kelvin.seas.V irginia.EDU (Steve Strickland, sgs8r@virginia.edu) writes: >>Here's the problem. The blade seems to get pushed out of alignment, eventually >>binding so I have to stop and back out. It is as if I'm trying to cut too smal l >>a radius, or as if the blade has no set. The blade is the standard Delta 1/4", --MORE--(58%) >>and "seems" to have normal set (though I'm not sure what that is). And my >>tension seems right (though I often forget to release it when I'm not using th e >>saw, so it may be a bit off). >> >>Any suggestions? Thanks. >> My suggestion is if you have a table saw you can use it to cut circles with the same sort of jig as on the bandsaw. Basically it's just a board with a pin sticking up that the circle blank with a hole in the middle that fits over the pin and on the bottom of the jig a strip of wood that rides in the miter gauge slot. You just make many passes cutting off the corners and after a while you have a perfect circle. You can also do the same thing on a stationary sander but it generates a lot of sawdust. I have done the tablesaw circle thing and it works great. have fun. End of article 4126 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4127 (84 more) in rec.woodworking: From: solomon@math.indiana.edu (bruce solomon) Subject: Question about jointer usage Message-ID: <1991Aug14.133737.13622@cica.indiana.edu> Date: 14 Aug 91 13:37:37 GMT Sender: news@cica.indiana.edu (News System) Reply-To: solomon@ucs.indiana.edu Organization: Center for Innovative Computing Applications (CICA), Indiana Unive rsity Lines: 18 Nntp-Posting-Host: obsidian.math.indiana.edu I recently acquired a new joiner (Craftsman), and have started working with it. Often, though not always, the machine makes a noticeably deeper cut on the trailing inch or so of the workpiece. I've tried to remedy this by being careful not to push down on the trailing end. In fact, I try to ``pull'' the last few inches through, keeping downward pressure over the outfeed table only. This doesn't seem to help much, though. Can anybody explain to me what's happening? Is there an adjustment to the machine that I should make? Thanks. --MORE--(91%) --bruce solomon --math department --indiana university --bloomington, IN 47405 --solomon@ucs.indiana.edu End of article 4127 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4128 (83 more) in rec.woodworking: From: jbm@safn2.UUCP (John McClatchey) Subject: Re: Four Poster Bed Summary: experience Message-ID: <2052@safn2.UUCP> Date: 14 Aug 91 13:22:56 GMT References: <1991Aug13.083800@sdd.hp.com> Organization: Southern Aluminum Finishing, Atlanta, GA Lines: 36 In article <1991Aug13.083800@sdd.hp.com>, harris@sdd.hp.com (John Harris) writes : > I am thinking of making a four poster bed. I have read a few articles > from "Fine Woodworking" magazine but was wondering if anyone has any > experience making this type of project? I recently made a 4 poster bed out of mahogany as a wedding present for my sister. I used a plan in a book of lined drawings I have at home. I will get the reference if you want it. I modified the double-bed size to queen. > From what I have read, the posts should be about 3 inches in diameter. Mine were 3.5. --MORE--(41%) > I will have to turn the posts in 2 sections and join them later. I needed 3 sections. > I read in "Fine Woodworking on Chairs and Beds" that the mortise should > drilled first before the post is turned to make sure it is exactly > in the middle. A steel plug can be used with a live center to mount > the post on the lathe. Has anyone tried this technique? I read an article in Fine Woodworking specifically about turning posts. I did not have the lathe equipment to drill the end grain hole. So I followed a suggestion in the article and made a jig the diameter of the two pieces to be joined which had five 3/8" or 1/4" holes and one centering nail hole. Using the lathe center as a guide, this jig was centered on the end of each post section, and holes were drilled in the end grain using a portable drill. I had some grooved dowels left over from another project which worked nicely. The glued up posts look like a solid post. I did struggle to find a way to clamp them, and finally used wedges between the post and my saw table to raise the post to contact the ceiling. Make sure you plan the post joint to be hidden at the bottom of a turned 'v' in the post, so it will be hidden. I'm proud of the results, and more importantly, so is my sister. --MORE--(99%) John B. McClatchey End of article 4128 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4129 (82 more) in rec.woodworking: From: srbeckle@cbnewse.cb.att.com (steven.r.beckle) Subject: What to say when someone wants to borrow power tools Message-ID: <1991Aug14.142359.12088@cbnewse.cb.att.com> Date: 14 Aug 91 14:23:59 GMT Distribution: usa Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories Lines: 18 Fortunately I started out with "beater" tools, so if anyone wants to borrow one, they get to use the lower echelon of my collection. I can't think of a whole lot of different tools that someone could take home with them -- drill, circular saw, jigsaw. I make my decision on how much damage I think they could do to themselves or the tool. With my chainsaw, it's easy. I say I'll do it for you, since there's no way I'm getting sued by someone who's ignorant on how that thing can hurt you. Anything else I lend is something that I'm looking for an excuse to replace if it gets trashed. So, if I really want to keep it, it don't leave my house without me. Ed: Hey Fred, will you store my hammer in your garage? --MORE--(94%) Fred: Sure, how come? Ed: I like to keep all my tools in one place. End of article 4129 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4130 (81 more) in rec.woodworking: From: cxd@genrad.UUCP (Craig Dawson (508)369-4400 x2267) Subject: Biscuit Jointers Keywords: biscuit jointers best? ryobi freud etc Message-ID: <42912@genrad.UUCP> Date: 14 Aug 91 14:37:37 GMT Distribution: na Organization: GenRad, Inc., CSD, Concord, MA Lines: 23 This is probably a FAQ, but I haven't seen it. If someone has a thread on this you could post it or email me, whichever you see best. Otherwise what biscuit jointer do you have or think is the best of these three: Ryobi $230 Porter-Cable $220 Freud $170 Approx. prices from only one catalog. --MORE--(68%) Any info would be helpful. Thanks, Craig -- --------------------------------------------------------------------- UUCP : cxd@genrad.com (Craig Dawson) /\ US Mail : GenRad, 300 Baker Ave. MS#1, Concord MA 01742 /\ /\ CIS : [73467,1414] 73467.1414@compuserve.com \__/ End of article 4130 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4131 (80 more) in rec.woodworking: From: article@tc.fluke.COM (John F. Berkey) Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house Subject: Help and advice needed.... Keywords: flooring Message-ID: <1991Aug14.171850.1081@tc.fluke.COM> Date: 14 Aug 91 17:18:50 GMT Followup-To: poster Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA Lines: 55 I have a small problem that I hope you fine people out there in net land can help me with. (A little history first), Back in November, our mobile home was caught in a flood. After we were able to return to our house, I ripped up all of the carpet and went out and rented some propane heaters to dry the place out. Well, after removing all of the walls, and redoing the electrical and insolation, I found myself dealing with the flooring. The manufacture of the mobile, used 3/4 inch particle board for --MORE--(37%) the floor, I was a little worried that it might develop soft spots or even holes, that however did not occur, even warping is minable. So not really knowing what I was doing, I decided not to remove the old flooring but instead, lay 7/16 OSB or wafer board on top of the existing floor, note: I made sure to screw the new flooring into the floor joists, not just through the old floor. This seemed to work out ok, But due to the minable amount of warping that the old floor had, I'm having some problems getting it total flat. Now I'm not to worried about the areas that will have new carpet and pad, but in the kitchen, were we have to replace the cabinets, and new linoleum it needs to be vary even. I guess my question is: Is there any type of compound that can be trawled on, and then smoothed out? or ???? Any suggestions good bad or indifferent, are welcome.... Disclaimer: I never claimed to know what I'm doing, I'm new to --MORE--(72%) this. So If I should have done something totally different please let me know, that is how I well learn incase of a future flood. Thanks. John. -- John Berkey (article) Snail: Attn: John Berkey Chief Quality Specialist John Fluke Mfg, Co Service Equipment Group P.O. Box 9090 John Fluke Mfg, Co. Everett Wa. 98206 Mail stop 90 Phone: (206) 356-6192 Fax: (206) 356-6070 E-mail: article@tc.fluke.COM Disclaimer: All views and opinions stated here are my own, and in no way represent the views of my employer. End of article 4131 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4132 (79 more) in rec.woodworking: From: phil@brahms.amd.com (Phil Ngai) Subject: Re: What to say when someone wants to borrow tools? Message-ID: <1991Aug14.165926.22468@amd.com> Date: 14 Aug 91 16:59:26 GMT References: <1207@gboro.glassboro.edu> <1991Aug13.202412.15633@morrow.stanford.e du> <1991Aug14.035657.37527@uvmark.uucp> Sender: usenet@amd.com (NNTP Posting) Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. Lines: 15 susan@uvmark.uucp (Susan Todhunter - (JWT)) writes: >Could your father TEACH this guy why he needs to handle the tools properly, >and how to do it? Some people can be taught. Some people are clueless, seemingly born that way and incapable of change. I'd say that someone who trys to back out a running circular saw (one of the examples given) is very questionable. With tools like this, you can hurt yourself bad in the blink of an eye. Just imagine someone putting a board on their leg and trying to cut it. I've heard of it happening. --MORE--(96%) -- Stop casting porosity! What does that mean? End of article 4132 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] Article 4133 (78 more) in rec.woodworking: From: phil@brahms.amd.com (Phil Ngai) Subject: Re: table saw guide Message-ID: <1991Aug14.170413.25614@amd.com> Date: 14 Aug 91 17:04:13 GMT References: <1991Aug13.055308.420@amd.com> <2470@ecicrl.ocunix.on.ca> Sender: usenet@amd.com (NNTP Posting) Organization: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. Lines: 26 clewis@ferret.ocunix.on.ca (Chris Lewis) writes: >The worst part of it was that the Wood article is absolutely riddled with >typos (big hunks of the comparison table is scrambled (ie: the B&D cheapie Yes, I noticed that, was able to unscramble it, but then it cast doubt on the whole article. Sigh. >The book and plate rating for the motor is 2HP. Which is a little >silly, but less silly than the idiotic router makers that claim 3HP >off a 15A 110V circuit. I'm not sure that it's a universal motor - >the table is rife with errors. Having a belt would suggest that >it is an induction motor. --MORE--(73%) Is it possible for you to look and see if the belt has any kind of speed reduction? >I've been hearing how people have to modify the thing to get it >together. That doesn't count as "adjustments", more like post-manufacturing >defect repair. I haven't had to modify mine yet, but I think the fence is defective. The back of the fence doesn't "grip". -- Stop casting porosity! What does that mean? End of article 4133 (of 4211)--what next? [npq] ******** 221 unread articles in sci.energy--read now? [ynq] Time left = 90 minutes and 58 seconds UNC-OIT Bulletin Board System 1. Return to Main Menu 2. rn, standard news reader 3. nn, full screen news reader 4. Post news ===> 1 Time left = 90 minutes and 49 seconds UNC-OIT Bulletin Board System 1. Message System 2. File Access 3. Network News Access 4. Special Interest Groups 5. UNC Campus INFO System 6. User Options 7. Bulletins and Additional Information 8. Goodbye 9. On-line Information Systems ?. Help ===> 1 Record successfully written Time left = 90 minutes and 40 seconds Current message area = general You have the following messages: UNC-OIT Bulletin Board System 1. Return to Main Menu 2. Read Messages 3. Send Messages 4. Scan Messages 5. Change to a new Message Area 6. List BBS Users 7. Internet Mail ?. Help ===> 7 Reading in /usr/bbsfiles/usenet/Lawrence/London/Mail/mbox, message: 012 Folder is '=mbox' with 2 messages [ELM 2.3 PL11] 1 Aug 15 Dave Beverstock (31) Talk... 2 Aug 11 Raouls Used CamlSh (28) Re: pasture You can use any of the following commands by pressing the first character;d)elete or u)ndelete mail, m)ail a message, r)eply or f)orward mail, q)uitTo read a message, press . j = move down, k = move up, ? = helpCommand: QuitFolder unchanged. Time left = 90 minutes and 20 seconds Current message area = general You have the following messages: UNC-OIT Bulletin Board System 1. Return to Main Menu 2. Read Messages 3. Send Messages 4. Scan Messages 5. Change to a new Message Area 6. List BBS Users 7. Internet Mail ?. Help ===> 1 Time left = 90 minutes and 10 seconds UNC-OIT Bulletin Board System 1. Message System 2. File Access 3. Network News Access 4. Special Interest Groups 5. UNC Campus INFO System 6. User Options 7. Bulletins and Additional Information 8. Goodbye 9. On-line Information Systems ?. Help ===> 8 Are you sure you want to exit? (Y/n): y Would you like to leave a private message for the Sysop? (y/N): n The management welcomes any comments! Please visit again! Xyplex -011- Session 1 disconnected from BBS press to continue... UNC-CH Data Network - For information, contact OIT at 962-0273 1. Reserved for future help 2. Goodbye; Logout; I want out 3. OIT Extended Bulletin Board 4. OIT Convex (Gibbs) 5. OIT VAX 17. Other services - your choice 19. Set character to return here 20. Exit from menu Enter number of selection>