Homebrew Anemometer Dear Richard and the HP Crew, I enjoy seeing more information in HP about wind energy systems. I think your idea of installing a small wind generator to check a site's wind energy potential (#21, P. 78) is really good. After living with a small wind system for thirteen years, I've got a couple ideas to share. My first wind machine was a homemade unit. If you want a good, reliable, efficient unit homemade is definitely NOT the way to go. But if you want a good, hands on education in wind energy, the homebrew will really give you that. Just don't expect it to perform like a factory model and be prepared to give the project plenty of time. Another possibility for low cost site analysis is a homemade anemometer. I made one by attaching three sheet metal cones to a hub which is mounted on a small permanent magnet generator. Most any PM motor will work for the generator, though its best to use a slow speed unit. Remember too that it will be spinning day and night so one with ball bearings will probably last longer. Surplus Center and Fair Radio Sales Co. are two good sources of PM motors and Fair also has a good selection of meters. The output from the generator is connected through a series resistor to a milliammeter. If you use two different resistors and a switch you can have a high and low range. Ours reads 0-25 on low and 0-70 on high. You'll need to make your own dial for your meter, so one with a removable face is handy. Just flip it over and mark on it the wind speed scales you want. Determine the proper resistors by experimentation. I calibrated our unit by clamping it on the front bumper of our car, high enough above the hood to be in "clean" air. Note your readings as you drive at different speeds (this is a two person task). Do your calibration run before marking the meter as described above. Another way to calibrate would be to mount your unit next to a factory made one and note the readings. This would really be preferable to the car method. I calibrated ours using the car method though (did it on our way to church on a calm Sunday morning) and the readings correlate very closely with what is reported by the National Weather Service in our area. If you're looking for one more reason to buy a Fluke 80 series digital multimeter the anemometer project is it. By putting the Fluke in parallel with the milliammeter and switching to the min/max/avg. recording mode you now have some of the functions of a full blown recording anemometer. It will tell you the minimum windspeed, the peak gust, and calculate the average windspeed over the entire day. You'll need to make a conversion chart to convert your Fluke numbers to windspeed. I also made a cardboard face that lays over the Fluke's face so one can read windspeed directly from the bar graph. Hope this might be helpful to someone. Below is a diagram to show what the setup looks like. PLACE DIAGRAM HERE, IT IS ON HARD COPY Fair Radio Sales, POB 1105, Lima, OH 45802 Tel. (419) 223-2196 Surplus Center, POB 82209, Lincoln, NE 68501 Tel. 1(800) 228-3407 P.S. Thanks for the "Time Machine" in #21. Exactly what I was looking for. How did you know? I plan to build several. Just need more time for all these HP inspired projects. Bruce Johnson, 7605 N. Post Rd., Spencer, OK 73084 Hi, Bruce thanks for the flowers and the easy to build anemometer. I built one like you described and used old panty hose containers for the anemometer cups. Only problem was that the plastic used to make these egg-shaped containers is photosensitive and they fell apart in about a year. Bob-O and I buy alot of parts from Fair Radio Sales. They have great stuff, excellent service and bargain basement prices. Glad you liked the Time Machine. Feedback from readers on this circuit has been hot and heavy. We're glad to be of service. Richard. Outback Bucks Dear Home Power, I am interested in receiving copies of your design newsletter about the OOZIE backwoods electric vehicle project. Please let me know about any costs involved. You may be interested in the incentive which New South Wales State Energy Authority provides for remote power systems. Under a scheme known as the Remote Area Power Assistance Scheme anyone who is more than a $20,000 connection cost to a main supply is eligible for a 50% grant for the costs involved in providing remote power from renewables like sun, wind and water. We recently installed a $24,000 system including installation costs and an equipment room for which we received a grant of $12,000. Major components (solar panels, wind generator, water turbine, batteries, inverters and chargers) have to be Australian made. The Energy Authority decided it was to their financial advantage to do this as the average country consumer in N.S.W. costs the Authority about $3,000/annum in maintaining distribution lines, even though the consumer has to pay for their initial installation. Maybe this example can be used to persuade American Utilities to do the same. Write if you want more info and/or a contact. The State of Victoria have also recently introduced a scheme similar to N.S.W. but with a max grant of $3,000. You may also be interested in an Australian magazine called Soft Technology. c/o Alternative Technology Association, 247 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, Victoria 3001. Australia Cost $15.00 They would probably swap a subscription. Regards, Brian Woodward, Earthworks, Wollombi, N.S.W.2325, Australia Hello, Brian. I very pleased to hear that the government down under is supporting renewable energy technologies. Wish we could convince the White House to do the same. I've entered a free sub for Soft Technology in our international database in hopes they will return the compliment. Karen and I would dearly love to visit the outback of Australia and some day we will. We see that many countries without an extensively developed commercial power grid are surpassing what is being done here in the USA. I salute the gov't of NSW for their far-sighted support of RE. I'm slowly working on the OOZIE project, but nothing really has been accomplished yet other than design and dreams. I need the assistance of an electrical engineer who can design 5 to 10 horsepower electric wheel motors. Our design calls for a gross vehicle weight in the neighborhood of 3,000 pounds. Our current design holds twenty-four 51 Watt PV modules (12 on the roof and 6 on each flip-up rack covering the left and right sides). We're planning on driving the four wheel motors with high voltage via two inverters. OOZIE is tentatively scheduled for ÷ 800 pounds of sintered- plate aircraft nicads. Wheelbase from front to back is 118 inches (about the same configuration as a Toyota pickup). Since OOZIE is a real powerhouse, we designing it to interface with a home power system. Batteries, PVs and inverters can be shared with a building when OOZIE is parked. How about EV nuts, want to get in on the fun? Richard. Hiding HP This is our favorite magazine. Sometimes I wish we had two subscriptions because we fight over each new edition when we receive it. I get it and hide it in the bathroom so he doesn't take it away from me. Keep up the good work. And I hope there are some workshops this year close to us. Liz Ewell, POB 23, Silver Lake, OR 97638 Gee, Liz, it's great to hear we are so popular in your home. But instead of getting two subs just learn to share gracefully and get another year on your existing sub. Right, Kent?-KJS Hi. Liz. The HP crew will be at the Oregon Country Fair's Energy Park on July 12th-14th. Oregon Country Fair is located in a small town called Veneta, just outside of Eugene. Come and join in the fun! Richard. Plain Truth To Whom, Etc., Great magazine - just keeps getting better. Since the Iraq/Kuwait crisis began, increased attention is being directed toward alternative and renewable energy. Maybe now the utilities will factor in societal and environmental benefits and pay a rate that will sustain current and future installations. Meanwhile, we continue to dismantle the world's largest PV utility scale power plant (originally rated at 6.5 MEGAWATTS!) Lance Pierson, Assistant Plant Manager, Carrizo Solar Corp.,Star RT Box 3013, Carrizo Plain, CA 93453 Gee, Lance, the thought of all those PVs frying in the sunshine makes me shiver. I get dreams of electric heat and air conditioning. The utilities are slowly getting the message about renewables. Utilities can either change they way they make and distribute power, or they can go the way of the dinosaurs. The utility involved in Carizzo was PG&E which is one of the most forward thinking in the nation. While I'm sorry to see the project terminated, I know that those panels are finding their way into home power systems. Their loss is our gain. Richard Fixated Tracker Dear HP, I'd like to see you folks do an article on trackers. We live in cloudy western Washington, and I've been trying to figure out the hot set- up for areas like ours. I've got a basic concept, with a lot of fuzzy areas in the picture. According to some local sources, light levels on a typical cloudy day average about 15-30% of maximum. The logic goes like this: The light is so indirect and such a small fraction of max that you may as well simply mount PVs facing south at the proper tilt. Zomeworks track racks, which depend on the heat of the sun, may very well never fire up, remaining in a morning position. This would be worse than no tracker at all! I'm not clear on Robbins trackers, but my guess is that most if not all electro-mechanical trackers rely on direct sun. Which brings me to my next point: Not EVERY day is cloudy around here, contrary to what you may have heard. I'm sure that with a drill and some bits of metal, a person could come up with a device for pinning a Zomeworks at a noon-time position, then remove the pins on days which promise to be clear. Would this result in damage to the trackers internals? As you can see, one question leads to another. I've been told that your money would be better spent on more panels rather than a tracker, and I wonder how many people have and/or will make the wrong decisions in cloudy climes like ours? Bill Barmettler, POB 1462, Chehalis, WA 98532 Hi, Bill. Pinning the heat activated tracker in a south facing position is a fine idea and we've done this to a thermal tracker in our neighborhood. The site is high on a mountain in a windy location. During the deepest winter months the tracker doesn't get warm enough to work effectively. Check out the new two-axis, electric-activated Wattsun trackers. At this point in time, it is not cost effective to track any less than eight 50 Watt modules, with the exception of array direct water pumping. It's a matter of bucks for the tracker versus the extra power supplied by the tracked modules versus just spending the money on more modules. In order to be a candidate for a tracker, a site must have dawn to dusk sunshine. Richard Ground Loop Allow me to share with you a solution to the hum-m- audio problem in operating DC powered stereo hi-fi equipment on the same battery with an inverter. While my exact problem has not yet been described, anyone familiar with big ticket auto-sound equipment interfacing will be familiar with the problem - GROUND LOOP - and its solution: Radio Shack #270-054 audio system ground loop isolator. I hate Radio Shack products with a passion, but this item WORKS. I was running a DC powered VCR into a DC powered "mobile stereo receiver" (Radio Shack #STA-7M that has line-in and even mag. phono input). Every time I turned on the inverter (to run a color TV) an awful hum pounded through the woofers. I suspected magnetic pickup - whenever you run a square-wave inverter, you generate big pulses of EMF fields especially where the + and - conductors are separated - unavoidable at the battery (even a puny 50 watt inverter on 1080 A/H of battery). See CURRENTS OF DEATH by Paul Brodeur, 1989. I tried opening the ground connections of the audio leads at the VCR. This lowered the hum but now made a buzzing (electrostatic pickup of the 60 cycle fields). Physically separating the amp. from the VCR (which generates magnetic fields from its logic) and from the TV (generates magnetic fields at 60 cps and 15 kc from its deflection coils) gives some relief, but the longer audio cables pick up more noise if ungrounded. I saw this "audio system ground loop isolator" and when I read on the back of its card a description of the classic ground loop in interconnecting auto sound equipment, I knew it would work. It cured the problem 100%. It is designed for a high-impedance hi-fi stereo line input and has RCA plugs and jacks to go right into your amplifier's line inputs. I haven't tried it yet on magnetic phono input, but it may help there also. DC powered turntables need to have their green ground wire connected to the ground terminal of the amplifier to remove the high-pitched tone from the TT motor. Peaceful Sounds, S. Marshall, RD3 Box 30-A Dover-Foxcroft, ME 04426 Hey, great! The right tool for the right job, eh. I love it when something works like it's supposed to. This will make for easier listening in a lot of RE households. Thanks. -KJS Opinion vs Fact I would like to take exception to John Wiles column. As Chief Engineer and Installer for "Solar Energy Resources" here in Westcliffe, we deal with the NEC and Colorado Inspectors (Statewide) on a daily basis. We are not encountering the same situations he describes. It appears his column is both fact and opinion concerning the Code. As a service to your readers his column needs to be edited to include only fact and not opinion. Otherwise keep up the good work. Dale Haberkorn, 440 Bear Peak RD, Westcliffe, CO 81252 Well, Dale, Mr. Wiles is wholly responsible for the contents of his column, we do not edit it, nor do we always agree with it. -KJS Shedding Light First let me add my own kudos to all that you receive... your publication is of great value to me. I live in Puna, Hawaii, which I have been told is the largest community in the US that is off commercial power and water (about 40,000 souls). I own a home with rain catchment as a water source, about 200 watts of solar voltaic, four Trojan T-105s, a Honda 2200 for backup, and a Heart 600 watt inverter; propane stove and refrigerator; both propane and 120v fluorescent lighting. I'm writing to relate my experience with compact fluorescents, and to ask a few questions of you and your readers: I recently tested my 120v lighting system, with an eye to efficiency and cost. The results were: SMALL FIVE COLUMN GRAPH GOES HERE, IT IS ON HARD COPY The Panasonic was a compact "light capsule"; the Lights of America was a common ring-type fluorescent purchased at my local hardware store (price here could probably be reduced by 30 to 50% for mainland buyers). Both units came complete with ballast, and that is how the measurements were made. The "LoA" unit was definitely a more "fluorescent" color (i.e., not pleasing); it's lifetime is hard to determine from the "8 years" on the package. But... where is the greatest value? The "watts" were measured with my Heathkit DVM (it has a 2 amp AC current range), assuming I had 120VAC from the inverter (actual measured was 128VAC... is this an artifact from the "modified sine wave" of the inverter?). The real point seems to me that, for about $9, the cheap ring lamp put out more than half again as much light as the expensive compact fluorescent, and the power usage was increased by less than 10%. To put things in perspective, I rarely need the large light output of the 22w ring fluorescent, and have just ordered $150 worth of smaller wattage compact fluorescents...but it is something to think about. I would also like to know if any readers have experience with very low scale hydroelectric power generation... I get around 200 to 260 inches of rainfall per year ; ten or even twenty inches of rain a day are not uncommon, and one to two inches per hour are not rare... I've calculated that, at one inch per hour, I am getting over 600 gallons per hour runoff from my roof, which has a height (head) of twenty feet above ground level... the power equivalent is about 30 watts... is there a practical way to convert this for charging my batteries? Looking forward to my next issue... Aloha e Mahalo Nui Loa Joel Aycock, POB 1659, Keaau, Hawaii 96749 How about it, readers? Anyone have low head, low flow hydro info? Richard Light Reading Dear Home Power, It is about time to renew my subscription for one year, I have enclosed a check # 340 for the amount of ten dollars. Thanks for all the good info in your magazine, Here is some info you can use, if it is useable in the magazine? I have done some testing on the new PL series like Osram F9TT/27K light bulbs, by running them on a 120 volt AC ballast made for this type of bulbs and on the 12 volt ballast from Sunalex Corporation I ordered from Real Goods. The table will show the results. I did use a Fluke DM. The input not regulated 118 volt grid power. The 12 volt battery 12.8 volts 20 Amp. Hr. INSERT GRAPH HERE, IT IS ON HARD COPY. It looks like the 12 volt DC system would be the winner, the power use of the 120 volt system is more than two times the 12 volt DC system. Chris Stehling, POB 1313, Phenix City, AL 36867 Yep, Chris, you're right the 12 VDC ballasts are indeed more efficient. PicoPower Dear Folks, I've read your magazine off-and-on for several years and have thoroughly enjoyed it. I especially appreciate your hands on approach and humor. If there is MICROpower and NANOpower there must be PICOpower! During my fourth year (winter) in the tipi, I looked up a small automobile bulb to a motorcycle battery and the seed was planted. This was to be my last winter living only by firelight and one kerosene lamp! I made up a small system that has worked perfectly for a year now. It consists of two Arco G 50/6 (six volt) panels wired in parallel - more about this later. This array puts out a whopping 2/3 amps at 7.3 volts, approx 5 watts. These are 'self-regulating' so I only usually see around 3 watts. I found a couple of hundred feet of 12/2, cut it in half and wired each panel separately to the control panel. I designed the control panel to be functional, a learning tool and fun, and it works! There are two 6v 10AH sealed gel batteries behind the panel. The batteries are individually switched and fused, the Arcos are also individually switched. The three meters are 0-500 milliamps (that's where most of my action takes place!), 0-3 AMPs and 0- 15 volts. With these I can measure the voltage and current of each panel separately and power drawn by each 'appliance'. I have five of six switched outlets used - 1/2 watt, 1.2 watt and 5 watt car bulbs, 6 watt fluorescent/flashlight from Radio Shack and AM/FM/Cassette player. Now to the answer - why a six volt system? My car is six volt (1961 Volks Bug) so I already had the three bulbs. The fluorescent from Radio Shack cost $15 (made to work from 4 'D' cells, it already had a jack for external power input). The cassette player was free ( a belt was broken - a local store had one for $4 ). It was made to run off of 5 'C' batteries and also came with an external jack. Interestingly, the jacks on the radio and flashlight were the same but in the radio the center contact is positive and in the fluorescent/flashlight the center is negative. Whew! I use both of these in the car sometimes so I used one plug with a polarity reversing switch marked appropriately. The panels were about $ 120 total, tripod mount free and easy, wire $0, batteries $40 total and the panel cost me around $75. So I've got a no-maintenance system that satisfies my needs perfectly. Thanks for your inspiration! The panel mounting tripod is simply three poles roped together. The angle of inclination is easily changed and it is very stable. My tipi works the same way - its called a 'three pole tipi' since the tripod is the foundation. The solar cooker has been a LIFE SAVER and is highly recommended for any alternative liver (and even non alternative ones). I recently added the mirrors and plywood top to my cardboard cooker for a little extra heat - now I get about 320ø full sun. I've probably used it close to a hundred times and still going strong - just worn around the edges. I cook soups, stews, breads, cobblers, grains, beans and heat water in it. I use clear quart jars (wide mouth) so I can see the food bubbling away - always a thrill. Do you know of anyone with plans for a parabolic dish? Thanks. Mark Heinlein, POB 1764, Bend, OR 97709 Although I have heard that there are plans for parabolic dish cookers out there I don't have any specific leads or addresses. Sorry, Mark. It always is a thrill to cook solar. If more people tried it I sure more people would do it regularly. -KJS RICHARD, PLACE ANSWER HERE, PICTURES ARE IN WITH HARD COPY Under Spread of Sail Dear Folks, I will start with the usual thought that I do enjoy your publication and have used many of the ideas and suggestions that have been explained in the pages of your very informative magazine. I will shortly be moving aboard a cruising sailboat in the 35' to 40' length range. Many of the concepts that have been espoused by you are very applicable to marine use and I intend to use PV and Windpower for my electrical needs on board, including: refrigeration, fresh water maker, and inverter circuits for repairs and maintenance. Outside of a story about Mary Duffield and windpower on board her 35' boat, Agua Alegre, I have not seen any stories about marine applications of Alternate Energy. There are special problems with using electricity at sea but they can be solved with intelligence and patience. I hope that I have enough of both to be equal to the task but I do not have the research abilities that you folks exhibit with your survey of ideas, products and "Things That Work". I need your help and advice regarding a sewing machine useable for repairs, new "stuff" for the boat and her crew and probably for use as a money maker in out of the way ports for those sailors who do not possess such a useful tool. I would like information regarding power consumption; 100VAC (inverter power) and 12VDC. I have considered hand or foot power but that does not seem too practical for my circumstances. Any information that you or your readers can pass on will be much appreciated and used. Aloha, John L. Alton, POB 341, Pearl City, HI 96782 Smooth sailing, John. We do not get submissions about marine RE so we have not had many articles on it. I recommend Fritz Seyfarth's book 'In Pursuit of Adventure and Freedom' that is reviewed in this issue. Also , now any readers afloat can write directly to you with any info they have. When you get settled onboard and your system is working submit an article, you never know. -Kathleen Composting Toilet Dear HP, I have spent many winter evenings with your magazine, merrily bemused in the glow of a propane lamp while the old lead-bellied car battery slowly turns a tape. Being inclined to keep it simple, I don't plan to upgrade my "system", but I enjoy the information exchange and appreciate the way HP enables obscure individuals to locate one another. This brings me to my point, namely a letter in which someone mentioned a composting toilet made of a 50 gal. plastic drum. Of course, that letter eludes me now, but I'm quite sure it really did appear in a recent back issue. A friend was going to construct such a toilet here at the cabin but, instead, was struck by some sudden astrological imbalance and split, hammer in hand. To his credit, however, he did leave a pile of blue cider barrels in the hedgerow. Okay, these things happen on muddy roads. I can build it myself, but, it's a point of pride with me that the thing work when completed. Would the writer of the letter in the misplaced magazine, or anyone who has built one of these toilets that really works, please send me a simple drawing. Alternately, Kathy Engel, Temani Farm, Heverly Rd., Trumansburg, NY 14886 The only letter that mentions a composting toilet, Kathy, is the one from Larry and Marge Warnberg-Welling in HP #22. Sadly, it does not use 50 gal. plastic drums. Happily, it is reported to work well. If you are not tied into the drum bit you might try their version. Perhaps a knowledgeable reader will help out with an answer to your dilemma. -Kathleen Spread the News I was lucky enough to receive Home Power #1 and returned the subscription form along with an inquiry as to Home Power people in the Northeast. My letter was printed in HP #2. Also in it was an ad for Fowler Solar Electric in nearby Mass. With Jeff's help we have a system which powers our new log home. All our friends take the PV power as normal now, but they all went through the sudden realization that these lights and music and yes, even the washing machine, are all powered by the sun. It's a mind blower at first. Home Power is an excellent tool. Every issue I open answers some question for me. I attended the Appropriate Technology Associate's 2 week Solar Workshop at David Palumbo's Independent Power and Light, put on by Ken Olsen and Johnny Weiss. It was great. In fact, I even got my back in the photo on page 37 of HP 320 (I'm the one with no shirt). I was happy to see the article on Ken and Johnny in HP #21. They are good teachers. So any way, please renew my subscription for 2 years and send a gift sub. to the Mason Public Library for me. HP just keeps getting better. Keep on Shining! Thanks for all the help and inspiration. Dave Morrison, Jeds Ln, Mason, NH 03048 Thank you, Dave. We can't help but get better cause we have readers like you. There is nothing like being needed to make an idea/people/philosophy excel. -Kathleen Solar Wheelchair Dear folks, Nice magazine, saw it on the newsstand for the 1st time and it definitely piqued my interest. I work for a project promoting the use of adaptive equipment by persons with disabilities. A good portion of that equipment relies on batteries. I have a personal mad scientist vision of enabling wheelchairs to "go solar". I'm enclosing a check for the available back issues and a subscription to see what I've been missing. Keep up the good work. MaryAnn O'Toole, 5 Alicia Rd, Dorchester, MA 02124 To echo your own words, MaryAnn, keep up the good work. We salute you! - Kathleen Washington Whitewash Thanks for the great job! In the aftermath of our recent Middle Eastern show of stupidity, we are seeing a resurgence of the oil and nuclear option as our only viable sources of energy. Is it possible for you folks to get someone to write articles alerting voters/constituents to movements in Washington on energy policy. We all need to contact our representatives in government regarding our energy future. But, we, as AE advocates, need to know more about what's going on - specific bills and resolutions, etc. We must use the lines of communication open to us all. Vote, write, phone, ACT UP!!! Moby Wile, 765 Dirk Rd, Bellvue, CO 80512 Alison Heins and Karen Reidy, representing the faculty and students of Jordan College Energy Institute, recommend that you write to your Representative c/o US House of Representatives, Washington, DC 20515, and urge him to OPPOSE: House Bill H R 759 or any other proposals to develop the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge Any new start-ups, or relaxing of licensing procedures, of nuclear plants Relaxing emission standards for US automobile fleet Urge him to SUPPORT: House Bill HR 39 to preserve the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge as wilderness Increased funding geared toward renewable energy development and production Removal of subsidies to polluting energy industries Encouragement of renewable energy education at all levels Job and training incentives for workers in polluting energy industries to work in renewable energy production Contact your Senator, c/o US Senate, Washington, DC 2010 and urge him to OPPOSE: Senate Bill S.341, which closely parallels Bush's proposals Senate Bill S.109 which would allow leasing on the coastal plain of the Arctic Refuge and previously mention issues in Rep's letter Urge him to SUPPORT: Senate Bill S.39 to preserve the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge as wilderness and previously mentioned issues in Rep's letter Encourage a National Energy Policy with the lowest total economic, environmental, and social costs, based on three fundamental policies: 1. Energy efficiency (only 3 MPG better than todays auto fleet would save enough to displace all the oil we got from Iraq and Kuwait), and energy conservation (insulation can save 25-45% of the cost of home heating fuels) 2. responsible use of direct solar, wind, small hydro power, and other renewable energy sources 3. decreased reliance on fossil fuels and acceleration of nuclear power phase-out Now it's up to you, get those pens and pencils busy. Remember, they read the hand written letters first. -Kathleen Rookie Yearnings I have been reading Home Power since the first issue, so you know I love you. But somehow I still feel alone with my AE system. In 1987 I purchased two PV panels, hired a friend to wire my house and another to attach the panels. PRESTO! After 13 years, no more kerosene lamps. Over the years since then, I've bought additional items: besides 12VDC lights, a pump, a VCP, a fan. But I have NOT bought a charge controller, inverter, generator, or tracker. Not that I wouldn't like to have a better system. My little voltmeter is inadequate to my needs. Here is the problem: ignorance! What ARE the REAL BASICS of an AE system? I thought I'd just learn along the way, and I have learned a lot, but not enough. I see the need for knowing the stored AmpHours in my system. How awful it is for me to go all winter without that business about charging batteries to "the top" as I do in summer? What about those horrible gases that might kill me if I brought my batteries into the house instead of leaving them on the porch in winter's low temps.? This is basic stuff, I understand. Maybe you could get a couple of knowledgeable types to theorize about FIRST YEAR BASIC SYSTEMS. Of course I'm on an incredible shoestring budget so all costs MUST remain low. I would be very glad to read such ideas in good old HP. Marilynn Walther, Address Withheld by Request RICHARD, PLEASE PLACE YOUR ANSWER HERE Overconsumption Dear Home Power, Your magazine is excellent. As a Journeyman Electrician, in the trade for over ten years, I have seen the industry change a lot, from modest (grid) availability to massive overconsumption. Electric this, electric that, etc. The future holds much change for us humans as a species on this planet, if we do not change our greedy, overconsumptive ways, we will soon, go the way of the dinosaurs, extinct. Solar photovoltaic and other forms of Alternative energy hold much promise and the only REAL solution to SURVIVAL! This is not some new fad, some scheme, some joke, some speculation, it is reality! Alternate power is THE ONLY WAY WE ARE GOING TO SURVIVE! But, I don't have to tell you that. Life can be so ironic, I spend all day installing grid- connected systems, with up to 600 Amp capacities, on homes for God's sake, and come home to my 6 Kyocera 51 watt panels, and smile, for the changes all start with each one of us, as individuals. Keep up the excellent work! PS Do you accept pix? Sincerely, Scott Jochim, Box 1224, Sandpoint, ID 83864 Yes, Scott, we do accept pix. There is no guarantee they will be published, of course, but we like'em. As for your other comments, I believe you have said it all. -Kathleen Hand in Glove Dear Friends, We'd like to order back issues: #4 & #16. Enclosed find $4.00. I'd like to encourage you to include info in small systems as often as possible, so that more people thinking of adding power to an "off the grid" lifestyle, see that small warp is possible. I remember seeing a mini- review of a mini system whose owner commented on the wonderful quality of life and light after graduating from kerosene to a one panel and DC electric system. He was really right - that transition is glorious - a day and night change to everyday reality. We've been living in an 18' canvas yurt for twelve years. I really remember when we made our first 6V system and had ELECTRICITY! We've slowly added to our system, but still our life goes on with one panel. And it's enough for us. We use up 5 gallons of propane every six weeks or so for our Paloma water heater and everything else we do with wood. I'm still washing clothes in buckets, but I wouldn't trade my lifestyle for another in America. (Where can I get a pair of those elbow length rubber gloves?). Anyway, my point is that off grid electricity can be available to lots more people if they think small, small. Small is not only beautiful, its simpler too. So keep up the good work. We think you're great and we read every issue as soon as it hits the table. God bless you always, may your missions be accomplished. Yours, Anne Shirako, POB 1004, Upper Lake, CA 95485 We salute you. It is a rare life that is uncomplicated in this day and age. The best that Bob-O can remember, he got the gloves from Industrial Safety and Supply in Lima, OH. We don't seem to have their catalog anymore. - Kathleen Convert Dear 24/32vdc Readers, I just finished reading my first issue of Home Power and am happily surprised at all the work and gains in the area of homestead power. I am an Electronic Technician in the US Coast Guard and after having spent a couple of years working on systems that used inverter for battery backups I had conjured many homebrew home power systems only to come back and discover that you all have been doing it for years (you see, Home Power never really hit the newsstands in Turkey or Japan). After reading this magazine I realize that I am in good company. Now to the point, I believe I have some help for the Stillmans of Huckleberry Homestead, and Thor Nordwall with the Ham Radio (issue #22), and perhaps, many other 24/32vdc users out there. The larger boats that I work with use battery banks wired for 24vdc for the engines and lighting then use a power converter for the radios and other electronics that run on 12vdc. The power converters that I use are are MOTOROLA model T1671A, input power of 24vdc or 32vdc of 6.5adc or 4.9adc respectively, and convert that to 13.6vdc at 8.5adc for "12vdc" equipment. On this 8.5adc we can run several pieces of equipment easily. A converter like this could be mounted unobtrusively at the end of a 24vdc line in a kitchen and/or other area that would use the majority of your 12vdc appliances. Of course, Thor, you couldn't run a 500 watt Linear Amp for a Ham setup with this unit. If your set up was to get that big, I would suggest using an inverter and running it off 120vac, the standard input for high power linear amps. Many larger motor vessels use either 24/32vdc battery configurations while still using 12vdc electronics. I would imagine, (though, don't quote me, I've only just begun to research homebrew power) that suppliers that cater to these vessels would also have many other options for power converters. I have also seen nautical catalogs with a variety of other 24/32vdc lighting possibilities. I hope I could be of help to some of you homesteaders out there as you have been to me. With your help and support of quality publications like "Home Power" I too, will join the growing family of self sufficient home bodies. Thank you, Shannon Mackey, 1501 North Ave #5, Burlington, Vermont 05401 RICHARD PLEASE PLACE YOUR ANSWER HERE EV Info Dear Friends, I intend to build an EV and have rejected "conversion" of old, heavy, in efficient cars in favor of a light, streamlined, high performance 3-wheel EV. The only disadvantage of this approach has been the engineering, design, and development required. Now professionally designed and well-tested EVs can be built that are so superior to "conversions" that it is no contest. Consider this: The Doran EV is similar in size and shape to the Honda CRX, but is much lighter (!) at 1,490 lb., has about the same performance a $23,000 Alfa Romeo Spyder sports car at legal speeds (o-30 in 3.3 sec., 0- 60 in 10.9 sec.), has 10.2 cu. ft. of luggage space, an 85 MPH top speed for easy 2,650 RPM cruising at 55, goes 61 mi. city and 42 mi. freeway at 80% discharge, and does it all with NINE mundane golf cart batteries! Ain't efficiency wonderful? Besides being heavy, batteries are the main operating expense for EVs. These high-performance EVs should cost about one-third as much run as a "conversion". More fun, too! Plans and construction manuals are available from: Doran Motor Co., 3425 Ridgecrest Dr., Reno, NV 89512-1443 Info- $5, Plans- $39.95 + $4 postage Dolphin Vehicles, POB 110215, Campbell, CA 95011-0215 Info- $12, Plans- $40 Both also include plans for gasoline (YEECH!) versions. If you are really serious about EVs, obtain all information available, decide what finished product you really want, and do it right, whether conversion or scratch built. No electro-clunkers! Also, forget techno-nerd gimmicks like hybrids (for EV drivers who are nostalgic for noise, vibration, and poison gas). Finally Conrad Heins' ("Hydrogen As A Potential Fuel", HP#21) information is hopelessly out-dated. PV is potentially by far the cheapest source of electricity! After all, they are made out of sand, and require no maintenance or fuel. Texas Instruments has a PV panel made out of cheap (buck-a-pound) metallurgical silicon, and an Australian group expects PV electricity to cost half as much as from coal. Solar hydrogen could be a very cheap fuel within 10-years! Now we have the "laser cell" H2 fuel cell by Dr. Roger Billings that acts as its own electrolyzer, in reverse, when hooked up to electricity and water, producing its own fuel! Fossil fuel isn't the problem... it's fossil politicians! Lucian Holy, 8015 Spencer Hwy #58, Deer Park, TX 77536 Thanks, Lucian, I want an EV so bad I can taste it. Unfortunately, we live so far out of town that range is a problem for us. Plus, we live in the Siskiyou Mountains. EVs are the transportation of the near future and with a few more battery breakthroughs, they will see their day. Necessity is the mother of invention.- KJS. I'll second that! If necessity is the mother, then imagination is the father! With regard to Conrad Heins' article, we have received many comments such as yours. Please realize that much of what you read in HP is opinion. In HP22 we ran two much more positive article regarding hydrogen. See Karen's Tech Note article in this issue on the new TI process for making ultra cheap PVs. Richard. City Survival Home Years ago, in 1971, I wanted to build my home in our downtown area free of the power grid and be independent of utility bills. The building inspector refused to give me a permit saying it would hurt the resale value of the home. I gave in and conformed, holding out for a wood stove in the main living area. He thought I was crazy as "no one puts in a wood stove anymore". That was back before the energy crunch, gas shortage, price increases and energy awareness. I am still living in the same traditional house and have enjoyed that stove very much. Now there is a new technology on the scene, one which I like very much! It is called solar power. I am firmly hooked into the power grid like a Siamese twin joined at the vital organs. At this time it would be very expensive to cut the cord completely and it would change my lifestyle appreciably. As a self proclaimed survivalists, I have come to the realization that I cannot afford a separate get away nor do I want the responsibility and upkeep that such a facility would require. I have come to view solar power and especially solar generation of electricity as the salvation of the future. My immediate goal is to install enough cheap solar hardware and other goodies in my home so that if the electricity, gas, and water services were interrupted for a week or a month the house would still be a functioning liveable dwelling. Sincerely, J. D. Hooker (author of "City Fort"), 309 S Marina, Prescott, AZ 86303 It seems it is a question of WHEN the public utilities fail, not if. It is a real shame the building inspector was so short sighted. As a survivalists you would do well to get your solar stuff in gear. Anything is possible, read on.-KJS