The Spirit of the Chivas A chiva is a Colombian mountain bus. The chivas carry everyone and everything around the high Andes. Each chiva is different. No two chivas are painted the same, driven by the same chivero, or follow the same route. It's not really these Andean busses themselves that are so amazing but the spirit of the drivers and passengers. The chiva is an impossible collection of worn out, overloaded, ancient machinery. Things break on a regular basis and everyone expects the resulting delays. A chiva with a flat tire parks in the middle of a one lane road cut through impossibly steep terrain. All passengers are outside holding the chiva up while the chivero and his associate change the tire. All traffic is blocked in both directions. Everyone gets out of their vehicles and stands around talking. Someone starts coffee brewing. No one doubts that the chiva will be repaired. It's just a question of time and no one is in any hurry. The chiva riders are equipped for the long haul. The have brought warm clothes and blankets suitable for racing around mountain roads in an open sided bus. They have brought dinner, lunch, and breakfast for tomorrow. They have brought chickens, pigs, plants, corn, beans, and other stuff all lashed to the chivas top. They are enjoying the view and visiting with their neighbors. The chivero, an independent businessman, repairs his bus. He is assisted by his associate who helps maintain the bus, collects all the fares, and keeps a sharp eye pealed for any trouble. While the passengers relax, the chivero and his associate are doing whatever is necessary to breathe life back into the chiva. Roadside engine rebuilds with a crescent wrench and hammer are a snap for these fellows. When the chiva is fixed everyone reboards and the ride begins again. Since the chivas schedule is ñ two days, no one minds running through small villages at 2 AM with all the horns blaring. Everyone in the village awakes, and those taking the bus scramble to hop on as it races through town. On a chiva there is always room for one or two more. I learned a lot from the chivas. An optimistic, can-do spirit can accomplish the plainly impossible on a regular basis. And have fun doing it. Richard Perez See color photo of a chiva on page 101.