I always turn the globe for the ornament first. The reason that I do the globe first is so that I can fit the icicle and the cap to the globe. Sometimes the shape of the globe is a bit off and the shape of the cap and icicle can be adjusted to visually change the appearance the globe and ornament. There is also the occasional catch or other unforeseen occurrence that changes the diameter of the holes in the globe that accept the tenons on the cap and icicle. The tenons can be turned to fit each globe thus insuring tight fit.
The diameter of the globes that I turn varies from 1.75 inches to approximately 3.0 inches. For a beginner I would suggest turning a globe approximately 2 to 2.5 inches. The larger the diameter the globe the larger the access hole can be. With the 1.75-inch globes I drill a 5/8-inch access hole, with the larger globes I drill a 3/4-inch hole. The woods that I like to use are Dogwood, Maple, Maple Burl and any other light colored wood that has an interesting grain pattern. Red Cedar makes an interesting globe. I like to use contrasting wood for the icicle.
The procedure for a glue block is similar to the above, with the exception that the blank is either glued to a glue block attached to a faceplate or to a block mounted in a chuck. When I am using expensive wood or small scraps I sometimes use a glue block in my chuck. The procedure for using a glue block is as follows: Mount a block of wood to either a faceplate or in a chuck. The next step is to turn it round and flatten the face for receiving the blank. The face of the glue block needs to be perfectly flat to insure good glue contact. The bottom of the blank also needs to be perfectly flat. I use a sanding station to flatten my blanks. Once the parts are flattened I then apply thick CA glue to the blank and center it on the glue block. I move it around to help spread the glue evenly. I then bring up the tailstock to hold the blank in place and add more glue to the outside of the connection if necessary and spray it with CA hardener. I let it harden for a minute or two and I am set to turn. When turning a glue block blank I like to leave the glue joint untouched. I like to part the finished piece off above the glue joint thus leaving the full surface of the glue up intact through out the turning process.
The next step is to begin hollowing. I open up the drilled hole with straight scraper or other hollowing tool. I then proceed to use the various bent hollowing tools to turn the inside of the globe to the proper thickness usually between 1/16 of an inch to 1/8 of an inch. I check the wall thickness frequently with my homemade gauges to insure that I do not turn it too thin. I also listen to the sound produced as I remove material, as this will also alert me when the wall thickness is getting too thin. Once the inside is turned to n even thickness, I then reduce the tenon to less than the diameter of the drill bit used to open up the ornament. As I am doing this I am also shaping the bottom of the globe and being careful not to be overly aggressive at this point. The next step is to finish sanding the globe. I sand from 120 grit all the way to 1500 grit. I then use the Mylands Finishing system to finish and polish the globe. To complete the globe, I remount the drill bit and carefully bore through the globe and remove it. I set it aside and prepare to turn the icicle and cap.
To turn the icicle and cap I start with a contrasting wood that is 1.5 X 1.5 X 5.5 inches long. I like to turn the blank between centers adding a tenon for mounting in a chuck. You can also turn the icicle between centers but it is more difficult to turn a delicate icicle between centers. Once mounted in the chuck, I mark the rough length of the icicle and proceed to turn a cone shape similar to sharpening a pencil. Remembering to leave enough room for the cap. In order to turn delicate icicle I turn the blank thinner than I think I should? The next step is to mark out your pattern changes as in most spindle work. I then use the gouge or skew to turn my pattern aware that I may have to adjust the pattern if my tool slips and removes wood from the wrong place. I do not measure my patterns. I space them out in a visually pleasing ratio. Each section of the icicle has to be sanded and finished as you complete it. It is very difficult to go back over a thinned section without risking snapping the icicle.
The bottom of the icicle needs to conform to the shape of the globe. I use the globe as a guide in turning the base of the icicle. Once this is turned I then turn a tenon to fit the hole in the globe and remove some of the material behind the base to match the curve of the globe bottom for a better fit. The icicle is then finished and parted off.
The cap is next. Before turning the tenon on the icicle I usually repeat the final curve of the base behind the tenon where the cap is going to be turned. As the globe is somewhat symmetrical this helps to get the cap started. I then turn a complementary curve for the cap leaving a bit of extra wood on top of the cap for a bead or some other decoration. Once the pattern is turned I use a skew to create a starting hole for a drill bit sized to the screw eyes that I am going to use for the top of the ornament. I then use a pair of vise grips to hold the drill bit and bore the hole. Next I turn the tenon to fit the hole in the globe. Once again I relieve the back of the cap to help the cap conform to the curve of the globe insuring a tight fit. I then sand and finish the cap and part it off.
To complete the ornament I dry fit the cap and icicle to check the fit. If they are not tight I use carving tools to improve the fit. Occasionally I need to increase the size of the hole in the globe to fit an oversized tenon. Sometimes material needs to be removed from behind the base to improve the fit. I have to be careful not to apply to much pressure or I might break the icicle or the cap, as they are fragile. I then use thick CA glue to glue the parts together being careful not to use too much glue, as the excess glue looks terrible. I do not use the accelerator as this turns the excess glue white and there is usually some glue on the out side of the ornament. The ornament is now finished and ready for display.