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ANNOUNCEMENT: Permaculture Design Course
Fundamentals of Permaculture Design Course
August 5 - 12
Acorn Farms
Belleville Wisconsin
What is Permaculture ?
Permaculture is the design of agriculturally productive ecosystems. It is
the har-monious (and beautiful!) integration of landscape and people,
providing food, energy, shelter, and recreation in a sustainable way.
Permaculture design is a system of assembling information, energy, plants,
animals, and building materials into an evolving ecology patterned after
the systems of nature. It is the best of the old and the new, traditional
wisdom and computer networking. It is based on observing and working with
nature, it is different for each site and each client.
The Permaculture Design Course.
Permaculture education itself has evolved since the early 70's; over 300
design courses and many more weekend workshops have been held all over the
world. We will be using the 8 day format; this allows enough time to
present the basic principles of permaculture, as well as practical, hands
on exercises. A second 8 day course will be offered later and will
emphasize design methodology, broad-scale applications, farming, regional
planning, village development, and will be aimed at design and teaching
professionals.
What are the topics ?
Subjects include fundamentals of ecology, site development, plants,
animals, structures, zone and sector analysis, energy, water, and
appropriate use of tools. Emphasis will be placed on practical solutions!
Part of each day will be classroom discussion, held in shady pine grove,
part will be in small groups to focus on individual interests, including
mapping and drawing, basic construction techniques, solar design and
assembly, garden ecology, plant propagation, wildcrafting herbs and food
preservation, etc.
Who are the instructors ?
Peter Bane publishes the "Permaculture Activist," the permaculture journal
for North America. He has documented permaculture projects all over the
world. He now makes his home in the green hills of middle Tennessee, where
he is developing a forest farm and permaculutre settlement on 145 wooded
acres.
Chuck Marsh is a landscape horticulturist, permaculture
designer, and teacher in North Carolina. His interest is in developing
regionally adapted, agro-ecosystems. He has years of experience in site
analysis, design, and development.
Why Acorn Farms ?
Acorn Farms is located 20 miles southwest of Madison Wisconsin, in the
Driftless Bioregion. Located "on the edge" in many ways - the edge of the
great glaciers, providing a mix of steep topography, rolling hills and
fertile bottomlands, the edge of prairies, the edge of the great north
woods, and the edge of urban sprawl as Madison pushes outward. The
challenge is to provide sustainable solutions.how to produce the food,
fuel, and fiber our exploding population will require without compromising
the natural beauty and non-renewable resources this make this area so
attractive.
Acorn Farms is on the edge of its own development.orchard and asparagus
plantings began in 1986, small fruit and nuts have been added each year
since. Hundreds of varieties are on trial, searching for those best
adapted to this site. The home is a blend of passive solar, radiant slab,
and super-insulated technologies.80% of construction materials are
recycled.
Recommended readings:
Permaculture by Bill Mollison
Tree Crops by J.R.Smith
Your Edible Landscape by R. Kourik.
All books are available through the
Permaculture Activist (615) 583-2294
How much & where do I sign up ?
The 8 day course is $525.00. This fee includes tuition, superb vegetarian
meals, camping space, a subscription to the "Permaculture Activist," and
lots of fun. There will be four bedrooms available at additional cost.
There is a $50.00 discount for full payment by June 15. Some work-study
opportunites and barter are negotiable. Preregistration is $150.00,
non-refundable. If interested please contact:
Martin Jelenc c/o Acorn Farms
760 Hwy 92, Belleville WI 53508
(608) 832 - 6277, early morning is best
What should I bring ?
- A commitment to implementing
sustainable living practices
- Information on your bioregion and areas of interest
- Notebooks and pens
- Slides, photographs or videos of projects or ideas related to
permaculture
- Field guides and reference materials
- Lightweight comfortable work clothes
- Your own coffee cup
- Camping equipment
- Sun protection and mosquito repellant
- If you like, your bike, canoe, musical instruments or toys
- Please leave all pets at home!
Article 23589 of rec.gardens:
From: bromage@mdw010.cc.monash.edu.au (Mr D Bromage)
Subject: Straw Poll: sci.permaculture
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1993 00:47:20 GMT
Please note: This is NOT an RFD, simply testing the water.
Anybody interested in a permaculture newsgroup? If so then offers of assistance
in writing a formal RFD and a charter are welcome.
Cheers
David Bromage _--_|\ bromage@ccds.cc.monash.edu.au
Department of Chemistry / \ bromage@monu1.cc.monash.edu.au
Monash University, \_.--.*/ Phone: +61 3 565 4513
Clayton, Victoria, 3168 v Fax: +61 3 565 4597
Australia
"I think thinking is so important" - Baldrick
Article 23657 of rec.gardens:
From: Libby Goldstein <libby@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 17 Oct 93 11:13 PDT
Subject: Permaculture Conf. On-Line
There is already a permaculture conference on line if you can access it.
ipc5.permacultu.
Article 4236 (40 more) in misc.rural:
From: gil@Gilsys.DIALix.oz.au (Gil Hardwick)
Subject: Re: fodder for ducks & geese
If you are raising ducks and geese, may I suggest a support enterprise
in aquaculture with a few pigs thrown in for good measure would offer
a highly sustainable nutrition cycle for the birds, especially suited
to a place like Hawaii.
Apart from your alfalfa and buckwheat for range feeding of the flocks,
water hyacynth can be grown on the pond surface (Chinese use floating
bamboo to contain it) which can be chopped up as fodder, and snails as
well as insects will populate the edges of the pond for your birds to
browse.
The flocks of grazing birds would also return nutrients to the ponds
to support a high volume of aquacultural production. A few pigs will
scavenge the area and keep it clean, providing your household with
pork at no extra burden on the nutrition cycle.
--
Gil Hardwick gil@Gilsys.DIALix.oz.au
Article 12134 (221 more) in rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: misc.rural,rec.gardens
From: rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au (Bob McKay)
Subject: Re: Growing fodder..
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 21:56:26 GMT
claird@NeoSoft.com (Cameron Laird) writes:
>In article <1992Nov18.090359.5839@news.Hawaii.Edu>
>yee@uhunix.uhcc.Hawaii.Edu (Jonathan Yee) writes:
>> Anybody have any experience growing fodder for farm animals?
>>Lately, for my newly established duck & goose enterprise I have decided to
>>try to grow my own feed -- at least as a supplement. I've so far sown
>>clover, alfalfa, & buckwheat seeds purchased at a health food store.
> .
>I haven't raised waterfowl, and I've never been to
>Hawaii, but I'd guess you've made some good choices.
Only just noticed this thread, but I can confirm that geese LOVE clover
(though if you use it as a forage crop, you'll need to keep a close eye on
them, as otherwise they'll eradicate it pretty successfully). Don't know
ducks, can't really comment (I thought ducks were pretty much carnivorous, but
it sounds like I'm wrong),
Cheers
Bob McKay
From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London)
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: Re: Small scale permaculture sources
Date: 16 Feb 1994 02:54:41 GMT
Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
-
Organizations:
Permaculture Association of North America
Friends of the Trees
Yankee Permaculture
Magazine:
Katuah Journal
Newsletters:
Permaculture Activist
International Permaculture
Permaculture Drylands Journal
The Permaculture Connection
North Carolina people involved in Permaculture:
Lee Barnes
Chuck Marsh
Harvey Harmon
Books:
by Bill Mollison:
Permaculture One
Permaculture Two
Introduction to Permaculture
Permaculture Design Manual
london@sunSITE.unc.edu
Article 160 of alt.co-evolution:
Xref: samba alt.sustainable.agriculture:526 alt.co-evolution:160
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From: joann@ariadne.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Jo Ann Malina)
Subject: Re: Planting onions by the phases of the moon.
Message-ID: <C0qopB.96D@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU>
Sender: news@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
References: <1993Jan12.042018.19292@samba.oit.unc.edu> <1993Jan12.042305.19622@samba.oit.unc.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 11:46:22 GMT
Lines: 36
In article <1993Jan12.042305.19622@samba.oit.unc.edu> london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London) writes:
>Article 12828 of rec.gardens:
>From: cs161fcd@sdcc10.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue)
>Newsgroups: rec.gardens
>Subject: Setting-out onions by the moon
>Keywords: moon lunar gravity onions alliums
>Date: 11 Jan 93 22:36:43 GMT
>Lines: 16
>
>What is the proper phase of the moon to set out onion bulbs by?
>Waning seems familiar to me, but I can't remember?
According to the section "Planting by the Moon" in my Jim Maynard's
Celestial Guide calendar, bulb and root crops should be planted in the
3rd quarter (week past full) or the 4th if necessary. He also gives
somewhat contradictory advice based on the sign the moon is in:
"Aries is a fire sign. When the moon is in Aries it is a dry and barren time.
Plant onions, cultivate what is already growing and kill weeds and insects."
Then he summarizes:
Best signs to plant in: Cancer, Scorpio and Pisces
Good signs to plant in: Capricorn, Taurus and Libra
Bad signs to plant in: Gemini, Leo, Virgo, Sagittarius, Aquarius and Aries.
Maybe planting onions in the "bad" sign of Aries will give you strong tasting
onions! Taurus and Capricorn are said to be the best for general root crops.
I would check the Old Farmer's Almanac, too.
*) *) *) *) *) *) *) *) *) *) *)!(* (* (* (* (* (* (* (* (* (* (* (* (*
Jo Ann Malina, Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
joann@unixhub.slac.stanford.edu -or- 415/926-2846
Neither Stanford nor the DOE would be caught dead with these opinions.
Nor do they consult me when formulating theirs.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
It ain't what they call you, it's what you answer to. -Bill Clinton
Article 12850 of rec.gardens:
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From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Setting-out onions by the moon
Keywords: moon lunar gravity onions alliums
Message-ID: <C0qxJ0.GI7@lysator.liu.se>
Date: 12 Jan 93 14:56:59 GMT
References: <43344@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>
Sender: news@lysator.liu.se
Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University
Lines: 24
cs161fcd@sdcc10.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue) writes:
>Quick Question:
>What is the proper phase of the moon to set out onion bulbs by?
>Waning seems familiar to me, but I can't remember?
Modern day people who like to do things by the moon, usually do things
that involve seeding (literally or figuratively) by the waxing moon,
harvesting on full moon and decaying/composting/pruning by the waning
moon. If you see someone wearing a pentacle, they will know more. The
pentacle is a symbol used by NeoPaganists in general. Check out
alt.pagan for more information about moon-phases aswell as pentacles.
>Also, while on the subject of onions, does anyone know about
>this thing that the Guatamalan Mayan descendants do called
>onion terracing?
Sorry, no idea.
--Ceci
--
=====ceci@lysator.liu.se===========================================
"The map is not the territory." Alfred Korzybski
===================================================================
Article 12855 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: samba!concert!gatech!emory!swrinde!news.dell.com!milano!cobweb.mcc.com!breland
From: breland@cobweb.mcc.com (Mark A. Breland)
Subject: Re: Setting-out onions by the moon
Message-ID: <1993Jan12.162854.9785@mcc.com>
Sender: news@mcc.com
Reply-To: breland@cobweb.mcc.com
Organization: MCC
References: <43344@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 16:28:54 GMT
Lines: 19
In article 43344@sdcc12.ucsd.edu, cs161fcd@sdcc10.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue) writes:
>
>Quick Question:
>
>What is the proper phase of the moon to set out onion bulbs by?
>Waning seems familiar to me, but I can't remember?
By old tradition (as documented in the Old Farmer's Almanac), a general rule of
thumb is to plant top-bearing crops (tomatoes, peppers, etc) during a waxing moon,
this includes both seeding and transplanting. Plant bottom-bearing crops (potatoes,
onions, carrots, etc) during a waning moon. Above ground fruit in waxing, below
ground fruit in waning.
---
Mark A. Breland - Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation (MCC)
Ada Fault Tolerance | voice: (512) 338-3509
3500 West Balcones Center Drive | FAX: (512) 338-3900
Austin, Texas 78759-6509 USA | internet: breland@mcc.com
Article 12858 of rec.gardens:
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Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Message-ID: <IfIj4iC00WBO41wZ5R@andrew.cmu.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1993 11:26:22 -0500
From: Ruth Kline <rk30+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Setting-out onions by the moon
In-Reply-To: <43344@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>
References: <43344@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>
Lines: 6
The old rule is that you plant root vegetables in the dark of the moon
-- but as far as I know, that applies only to planting seeds. I don't
think onion sets are particular about the moon phase, but it might be
fun to experiment by planting half of them in the waning moon and half
in the waxing moon.
-- Ruth Kline, Carnegie Mellon University
Article 12828 of rec.gardens:
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From: cs161fcd@sdcc10.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Setting-out onions by the moon
Keywords: moon lunar gravity onions alliums
Message-ID: <43344@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>
Date: 11 Jan 93 22:36:43 GMT
Sender: news@sdcc12.ucsd.edu
Lines: 16
Nntp-Posting-Host: sdcc10.ucsd.edu
Quick Question:
What is the proper phase of the moon to set out onion bulbs by?
Waning seems familiar to me, but I can't remember?
Also, while on the subject of onions, does anyone know about
this thing that the Guatamalan Mayan descendants do called
onion terracing?
Thanks. xoxo
sean
--
sean maschue <smaschue@ucsd.edu>
Article 8066 of misc.rural:
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From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullys Maze)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Native plants that attract wildlife
Date: 15 Mar 1994 09:04:42 -0800
Organization: Stanford University
Lines: 145
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Message-ID: <2m4pra$8jh@morrow.stanford.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu
Okay, here I will post some information that may be useful. This is
mostly applicable to Calif.
NATIVE PLANTS THAT PROVIDE WILDLIFE HABITAT
Unless mentioned otherwise, the following lists are regarding the
value of the seed, fruit or berry of the plant mentioned
When Hummingbirds are mentioned, its the flower that has the nectar
TREES
Acer macrophyllum BIG-LEAF MAPLE Goldfinches, Bees, Raccoons
Aesculus californica CALIFORNICA BUCKEYE Hummingbirds
Alnus rhoombifolia WHITE ALDER Warblers, Goldfinches, Pine Siskins
Cedar Waxwings
Cornus nuttallii PACIFIC DOGWOOD Western Tanagers, Warblers, robins,
Thrushes, Woodpeckers, Tree Swallows, many others
Cupressus Governiana GOWEN'S CYPRESS Thrushes, Mockingbirds, Pigeons
Opossums, Coyotes
Juglans Hindsii BLACK WALNUT Jays, Pigeons, Squirrels
Lithocarpus densiflora TANBARK OAK Jays, Meadowlarks, Pheasants,
Pigeons, Titmice, Thrashers, Quail, Woodpeckers, Rabbits, Raccoons
Squirrels, Mice, Foxes
Pinus attenuata KNOBCONE PINE Chickadees, Doves, Finches, Jays,
Sparrows, Rabbits, Squirrels
Platanus racemosa CALIFORNIA SYCAMORE Goldfinches, Cedar Waxwings,
House, Purple finches, Pine Siskins, Red-Tailed Hawks, Woodpeckers
Populus fremontii FREMONT'S COTTONWOOD Foxes, Squirrels, Mice
Populus tremuloides QUAKING ASPEN Rabbits, Deer, Grouse, Opossum
Populus trichocarpa BLACK COTTONWOOD same, hairs on seeds used in
nesting materials
Pseudotsuga menziesii DOUGLAS FIR Deer, Squirrels, Woodrats
Quercus OAKS All species of oaks valuable to: Mallard, Clapper rails
Wooducks, Pheasants, Jays, Pigeons, Finches, Quail, Thrushes
Chickadees, Towhees, Grosbeaks, Nuthatches, Raccoons, Foxes
Also provide shelter, nesting sites and many insects for birds
Sequoia sempervirens COAST REDWOOD Jays, Pigeons, Wrens, Chickadees
Torreya californica CALIFORNIA NUTMEG Squirrels
SHRUBS
Adenostoma fasciculatum CHAMISE Bees, Goldfinches, Grosbeaks,
Raccoons, Deer, Woodrats, Mice
Amelancher pallida SERVICE BERRY Thrushes, other birds and mammals
Arctostaphylos MANZANITA Excellent for Quail, Doves, Mockingbirds
Robins, Thrushes, Cedar Waxwings, Grosbeaks, Finches, Towhees,
Sparrows, Raccons, Skunks, Squirrels, Coyotes, Deer, Hummingbirds
Atriplex lentiformis QUAIL BUSH Quail, Finches, Towhees, Sparrows,
Rabbits. Good shelter
Baccharis pilularis COYOTE BRUSH Deer, Butterflies
Berberis nevinii NEVIN'S BARBERRY Quail, Doves, Mockingbirds,
Robins, Thrushes, Cedar Waswings, Grosbeaks, Finches, Towhees,
Sparrows Thrashers. Also good shelter
Calycanthus occidentalis SPICE BUSH Robins, Thrushes, Pheasants
Ceanothus WILD LILAC Quail, Hummingbirds, Bush-Tits, Mockingbirds,ds
Thrashers, Thrushes, Warblers, Grosbeaks, Finches, Juncos,
Rabbits, Squirrels, Bees, Butterflies, Hummingbirds
Clematis lasiantha and ligustifolia Hummingbirds
Cercis occidentalis REDBUD Goldfinches and Hummingbirds
Cornus stolonifera CREEK DOGWOOD Mockingbirds, Sparrows, Mourning
Doves, Cedar Waxwings, Woodpeckers, Pigeons, Raccoons, Deer
Diplacus aurantiacus ORANGE MONKEYFLOWER Hummingbirds
Diplacus puniceus RED BUSH MONKEYFLOWER same
Diplacus longiflorus SOUTHERN MONKEYFLOWER same
Eriogonum fasciculatum CALIFORNIA BUCKWHEAT Oregon Juncos, Towhees,
Squirrels, Bees, Butterflies
Galvezia speciosa ISLAND SNAPDRAGON Hummingbirds
Gaultheria shallon SALAL Thrashers, Chickadees, Thrushes, Finches
Heteromeles arbutifolia TOYON Cedar Waxwing, Towhees, Quail,
Mourning Doves, Wrentits, Finches, Robins, Pigeons, Western
Bluebirds
Isomeris arborea BLADDERPOD Hummingbirds
Lonicera hispidula CALIFORNIA HONEYSUCKLE Finches, Hermit Thrushes,
Rabbits, Hummingbirds
Lonicera interrupta same
Lonicera involucrata TWINBERRY same
Lupinus albifrons SILVER LUPINE Quail, Squirrels
Mahonia aquifolium OREGON GRAPE Cedar Waxwings, Robins, Pheasants
Mockingbirds, Finches, Deer. Good shelter
Myrica californica CALIFORNIA WAX MYRTLE Cedar Waxwings, Chickadees,
Towhees, Orioles, Wrentits, Warblers
Osmoronia cerasiformis OSO BERRY Mockingbirds, Pigeons
Prunus ilicifolia HOLLYLEAF CHERRY birds, small mammals and deer
Quercus durata LEATHER OAK same
Rhamnus californica CALIFORNICA COFFEEBERRY Pigeons, Jays, Robins,
Mockingbirds, Thrashers, Cedar Waxwings, Purple Finches
Rhamnus crocea REDBERRY same
Rhamnus ilicifolia HOLLYLEAF REDBERRY same, plus Quail
Rhus integrifolia LEMONADE BERRY Quail, Flickers, Finches, Pheasants
Juncos, Jays, Mockingbirds, Robins, Thrushes, Finches, Grosbeaks
Catbirds, Chickadees, Towhees
Rhus ovata SUGARBUSH same
Ribes aureum GOLDEN CURRANT Many birds eat berries, hummingbirds
Ribes californicum CALIFORNICA CURRANT same
Ribes malvaceum CHAPPARAL CURRANT hummingbirds
Ribes menziesii Quail, Thrashers, Robins, Thrushes, Finches, Towhees
Ribes sanguineum RED FLOWERED CURRENT Hummingbirds
Ribes speciosum FUCHSIA FLOWERED GOOSEBERRY same
Rosa californica CALIFORNICA ROSE Pine Siskins. Goldfinches, Quail,
Thrushes, Pheasants, Raccoons, good nesting sites
Rubus vitifolius WESTERN BLACKBERRY good for fruit and cover
Salix WILLOW Warblers, Thrushes, Fox sparrows, Finches
Salvia clevelandii CLEVELANDS SAGE Hummingbirds, Sparrows
Salvia leucophylla PURPLE SAGE same
Salvia mellifera BLACK SAGE same, also bees and finches
Salvia sonomensis CREEPING SAGE same
Sambucus glauca CALIFORNICA ELDERBERRY Pigeons, Wren-Tits, Mock-
ingibrds, Finches, Towhees, Robins, Deer
Symphoricarpos albus SNOWBERRY Hummingibrds, Mockingbirds, Towhees
Finches, Grosbeaks, Cedar Waxwings, Deer. Good cover
Trichostemma lanatum WOOLY BLUE CURLS Hummingbirds
Vaccinum ovatum HUCKLEBERRY Pigeons, Mourning Doves, Foxes, Raccoons
Opossum, Rabbits, Deer
Vitus californica CALIFORNICA WILD GRAPE all birds
PERENNIALS
Aquilegia formosa WESTERN COLUMBINE Hummingbirds, seeds eaten
by small birds
Aquilegia exima same
Cynoglossum grande WESTERN HOUNDS TOUNGE Hummingbirds
Delphinium cardinale SCARLET LARKSPUR Hummingbirds, Finches
Delphinium nudicale same
Eriogonum species BUCKWHEATS Butterflies, bees
Fragaria californica BEACH STRAWBERRY berries good food source
Heuchera maxima ISLAND ALUM ROOT Hummingbirds
Heuchera macrantha ALUM ROOT same
Iris species seeds eaten by birds
Keckiella corymbosa BUSH PENSTEMON Hummingbirds
Keckiella cordifolia HEARTLEAF PENSTEMON same
Keckiella ternatus SAME
Mimulus cardinalis SCARLET MONKEYFLOWER Hummingbirds
Monardella macrantha MOUNTAIN PENNYROYAL Hummingbirds
Monardella villosa COYOTE MINT Hummingbirds
Penstemon centranthifolious, P. labrosus, P. newberryi, P. barbatus,
P. clevelandii Hummingbirds
P. heterophyllus, P. spectablis, P. speciosus, etc. Penstemon seed
eaten by small birds
Satureja mimuloides Hummingbirds
Wyethia helenoides GRAY MULE EARS seed good for birds and mammals
Zauschineria californica CALIFORNICA FUCHSIA Hummingbirds
For more information contact Karen Sullivan at 279-2868
Article 7985 of misc.rural:
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From: wagner@mala.bc.ca (TOM WAGNER, Wizzard of old Audio/Visual Equipment........Nanaimo Campus)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Pond Building
Message-ID: <1994Mar8.124903.3642@mallrc.mala.bc.ca>
Date: 8 Mar 94 12:49:03 -0700
References: <2lg3fn$fjl@bigblue.oit.unc.edu>
Distribution: usa
Organization: Malaspina College
Lines: 96
In article <2lg3fn$fjl@bigblue.oit.unc.edu>, rdrob@med.unc.edu (Ricky Roberson) writes:
> For quite some time now, I've been contemplating building/having a pond built.
> Is building a pond something that an individual with the proper equipment
> could do, or are there some "secrets" to building a pond.
>
> In short, does anybody know anything that might help me as far as pond
> construction goes? Any help would be appreciated. Please email or post
> to the the group.
>
> Rick
>
>
It goes without saying that the most important aspect to ponds is a source of
water. No pun intended but it goes a lot deeper than that. I just built a
80 by 40, 8 feet deep pond so we are talking about recent experience.
To line or not to line, that is the question...
I couldn't line the pond as it is 100% spring fed. To line it would prevent
any water supply at all. Most sources say to line it. Personally I believe
this depends on how much water will go through the pond. Being spring fed I
have considerable flow. I also live in a wet climate. Lining the pond to me
would only be a factor of the inhabitants. If I was raising Koy fish, a liner
or some sort is desireable as the fish like to burrow in the mud and I would
never see them. If you have a meager source of water and are subject to dry
spells a liner is essential. Don't use cheap plastic, if you are going to
keep water in it for the next few years, it will only be as good as the quality
put in. Personally I would opt for concrete (as most of the aquaculturalists
here at the college have done). It is possible to have a Gunnite spray liner
done without any work other than digging the hole. There has been considerable
comments on the availability of plastic materials for liners and as I do not use
one I will leave those comments to those that do.
Safety, or what if anything falls in...
I had my pond dug by a fellow who reclaims logging sites, so any pond he builds
are in the woods and are subject to animals falling in. Do not build steep
sides and bangs. Common sense will dictate what is too steep for any animals to
climb out (example, mine is cut unto a hill, so the bank here is deliberately
steep to prevent animals from even trying to get out that way. the rest is
contoured to lead any stray animals out). Also assume that it may become a
water hole so make provisions. This prevents watering in unsafe or unwanted
areas of the pond. Children are another problem again...
How to attact birds...
Do not put in any feeders. I did, the only activity is coons. Your pond
location will dictate if birds will be attracted to it. A pond in trees will
not attract wild ducks (etc). They do not like to be trapped on the water. If
the pond is out in the open it will surely attract birds. If they come and
you want to feed ok. Scatter feed only. Remember, they will rapidly become
"welfare cases".
Test the water...
Where your water comes from will determine its suitability for fish and the
type. It will also give you an indication of where it is being fed from. I
know of one pond that is totally useless as the neighbors septic systemy hits
it almost directly.
To fish or not to fish, another question...
Fish of some sort are in my opinion essential. The "invertibrate population"
will start almost immediately. Bird droppings transplant all sorts of parasites
and insects. By far the worst is mosquitos. Fish are your best control of this
nuisance.
Check your local fish and game regulations, you may need a permit for some types
of fish. In my area "hobby ponds" are licensed free, but must be inspected.
The major concern is the possibility of your stock escaping into local streams.
You may have to dam the pond outflow and restrict drainage.
How hot does the water get in summer...
If you live in a hot area, you will have problems in the summer. Algae will
thrive. Whis will deplete the oxygen in your pond and do all sorts of nasty
things. Even though some fish thrive on algae aeration will be necessary to
keep trout happy.
My biggest problem will be keeping the wife out of it. This is a definate no
no. Ponds are great to look at but as healthy places to swim they are out.
anyhoo, enuff for now...
One thing sure, they are sure fun. I spent the whole weekend on mine building
bank control on the outflow where we want to walk. Sure can take up ones time.
--
____________ ____________ ____ _____
/_____ ____/ / _______ / / \ ,' /
/ / / / / / / /\ \ ,' ,'/ /
/ / / / / / / / \ \,' ,' / /
/ / / / / / / / \ ,' / /
/ / / /______/ / / / \,' / /
/__/ /___________/ /__/ /_/
_____________________________________________________
/____________________________________________________/
Proud owner of a dog, cat, bird, old Tractor and a British
Car "If Lucas Electric made guns wars wouldn't start"
Article 7985 of misc.rural:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!mala.bc.ca!wagner
From: wagner@mala.bc.ca (TOM WAGNER, Wizzard of old Audio/Visual Equipment........Nanaimo Campus)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Pond Building
Message-ID: <1994Mar8.124903.3642@mallrc.mala.bc.ca>
Date: 8 Mar 94 12:49:03 -0700
References: <2lg3fn$fjl@bigblue.oit.unc.edu>
Distribution: usa
Organization: Malaspina College
Lines: 96
In article <2lg3fn$fjl@bigblue.oit.unc.edu>, rdrob@med.unc.edu (Ricky Roberson) writes:
> For quite some time now, I've been contemplating building/having a pond built.
> Is building a pond something that an individual with the proper equipment
> could do, or are there some "secrets" to building a pond.
>
> In short, does anybody know anything that might help me as far as pond
> construction goes? Any help would be appreciated. Please email or post
> to the the group.
>
> Rick
>
>
It goes without saying that the most important aspect to ponds is a source of
water. No pun intended but it goes a lot deeper than that. I just built a
80 by 40, 8 feet deep pond so we are talking about recent experience.
To line or not to line, that is the question...
I couldn't line the pond as it is 100% spring fed. To line it would prevent
any water supply at all. Most sources say to line it. Personally I believe
this depends on how much water will go through the pond. Being spring fed I
have considerable flow. I also live in a wet climate. Lining the pond to me
would only be a factor of the inhabitants. If I was raising Koy fish, a liner
or some sort is desireable as the fish like to burrow in the mud and I would
never see them. If you have a meager source of water and are subject to dry
spells a liner is essential. Don't use cheap plastic, if you are going to
keep water in it for the next few years, it will only be as good as the quality
put in. Personally I would opt for concrete (as most of the aquaculturalists
here at the college have done). It is possible to have a Gunnite spray liner
done without any work other than digging the hole. There has been considerable
comments on the availability of plastic materials for liners and as I do not use
one I will leave those comments to those that do.
Safety, or what if anything falls in...
I had my pond dug by a fellow who reclaims logging sites, so any pond he builds
are in the woods and are subject to animals falling in. Do not build steep
sides and bangs. Common sense will dictate what is too steep for any animals to
climb out (example, mine is cut unto a hill, so the bank here is deliberately
steep to prevent animals from even trying to get out that way. the rest is
contoured to lead any stray animals out). Also assume that it may become a
water hole so make provisions. This prevents watering in unsafe or unwanted
areas of the pond. Children are another problem again...
How to attact birds...
Do not put in any feeders. I did, the only activity is coons. Your pond
location will dictate if birds will be attracted to it. A pond in trees will
not attract wild ducks (etc). They do not like to be trapped on the water. If
the pond is out in the open it will surely attract birds. If they come and
you want to feed ok. Scatter feed only. Remember, they will rapidly become
"welfare cases".
Test the water...
Where your water comes from will determine its suitability for fish and the
type. It will also give you an indication of where it is being fed from. I
know of one pond that is totally useless as the neighbors septic systemy hits
it almost directly.
To fish or not to fish, another question...
Fish of some sort are in my opinion essential. The "invertibrate population"
will start almost immediately. Bird droppings transplant all sorts of parasites
and insects. By far the worst is mosquitos. Fish are your best control of this
nuisance.
Check your local fish and game regulations, you may need a permit for some types
of fish. In my area "hobby ponds" are licensed free, but must be inspected.
The major concern is the possibility of your stock escaping into local streams.
You may have to dam the pond outflow and restrict drainage.
How hot does the water get in summer...
If you live in a hot area, you will have problems in the summer. Algae will
thrive. Whis will deplete the oxygen in your pond and do all sorts of nasty
things. Even though some fish thrive on algae aeration will be necessary to
keep trout happy.
My biggest problem will be keeping the wife out of it. This is a definate no
no. Ponds are great to look at but as healthy places to swim they are out.
anyhoo, enuff for now...
One thing sure, they are sure fun. I spent the whole weekend on mine building
bank control on the outflow where we want to walk. Sure can take up ones time.
--
____________ ____________ ____ _____
/_____ ____/ / _______ / / \ ,' /
/ / / / / / / /\ \ ,' ,'/ /
/ / / / / / / / \ \,' ,' / /
/ / / / / / / / \ ,' / /
/ / / /______/ / / / \,' / /
/__/ /___________/ /__/ /_/
_____________________________________________________
/____________________________________________________/
Proud owner of a dog, cat, bird, old Tractor and a British
Car "If Lucas Electric made guns wars wouldn't start"
Article 7980 of misc.rural:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel!olivea!news.bbn.com!sher
From: sher@bbn.com (Lawrence D. Sher)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Pond Building
Date: 8 Mar 1994 16:22:22 GMT
Organization: Bolt Beranek and Newman (BBN)
Lines: 33
Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <mnp9huINNjou@news.bbn.com>
References: <2lg3fn$fjl@bigblue.oit.unc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: reilly.bbn.com
In article <2lg3fn$fjl@bigblue.oit.unc.edu> rdrob@med.unc.edu (Ricky Roberson) writes:
>For quite some time now, I've been contemplating building/having a pond built.
>Is building a pond something that an individual with the proper equipment
>could do, or are there some "secrets" to building a pond.
>
>In short, does anybody know anything that might help me as far as pond
>construction goes? Any help would be appreciated. Please email or post
>to the the group.
(I'm assuming that by "pond" you do not mean a 10' wading puddle.)
Secrets? It depends on whether you want it done well or not.
I'd suggest that you contact the local branch of the US Soil
Conservation Service for advice. They may be able to point you at good
pond builders too.
Some things to think about:
Local and state regulations
Seasonal ground water levels
Pollution from surface streams or run-in
Wind scouring of the surface
Where to put the spoil
Overflow provisions
Overhanging vegetation
Biological overgrowth
Liability issues
.----------------------------------------------------------------
/Internet email: sher@bbn.com
Larry Sher < US Mail: BBN, MS 6/5B, 10 Moulton St., Cambridge, MA 02138
\ Telephone: (617) 873 3426 FAX: (617) 873 3776
`----------------------------------------------------------------