[compost_tea] When to add amendments & simple flow through worm bin [1 Attachment]
Thanks Steve for your comments and corrections on my ill-advised claims of =
phosphates for binding sandy soils much appreciated for steering me in the =
right direction.
My needs are only for a small urban garden I do have several bareneck fowls=
though kinder looks like a farm in the city. Passers by commenting on the=
compost smells emanating from my yard :-) well that's another story.
We have a weekend getaway near a local lake - Our caravan/cabin site is on =
the head waters which is very polluted (sewage) much the same as your Harte=
beestpoort dam. The soils are sandy & the water pH is very low (methane etc=
) consequently only the acid loving plants are growing as we pump directly =
from a well dug near the lake shore (to filter the scum/sludge).
I have started last year a water Hyacinth over red worm project out there t=
o improve the humic conditions in the sandy soil. Not easy when you have fo=
lk assisting that don't really have their heart in it. Compost layers have =
not been layered efficiently, worm bins don't get regular watering, fires a=
re left to run through the compost piles, really frustrating. However we ca=
rry on in an effort to keep our environment lasting a littler longer, in th=
e hope it rub's off on others.
Attached is the flow through commercial worm bin I started a few weeks back=
, has been put on the back burner for a bit hope it comes through as not su=
re if this forum accepts pics. You can see the breaker/scraper bar in the f=
ront & will have wooden ends with boat winches to pull the bottom scraper. =
My several smaller bins, tanks & old bath's are now becoming labor intensiv=
e to separate the castings.
Rgds
Ian C
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<snip>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Steyn To: compost_tea_at_yahoogroups.com
Ian;
P and K are not micro nutrients. Plants (and animals) require these nutri=
ent elements in larger quantities. As these elements are already in your so=
ils (in all likelihood), your biological additions should make these more a=
ccessible to your plants over a period of time. I.e.: Once your soils are =
biologically more active. Chicken manure is a source you could consider, bu=
t if you're a composter, then you should be composting it, or composting it=
and using it in your worm bins. The other products can be added to compost=
too but many of them can for ease of work be added straight to the field. =
For example soft rock phosphate, although more soluble that rock phosphate,=
is still not very soluble. So you would need a large quantity and adding i=
t to your compost would make your turner work so much harder for little add=
ed benefit. Feather meal, bone meal, blood meal, fish waste products are go=
od sources of phosphates but are too expensive for broad scale farming unle=
ss you're organic. Cotton seed and soya oilcakes are way too expensive, an=
d are best fed to your livestock (Assuming you have) rather than tossed on =
the soil or compost heap - unless you are making compost to be used as ACT =
where it may have a place.
Lime is a slow working amendment and is dependent on microbial action as =
well as acidic conditions for release. Gypsum is a better calcium source gi=
ven its solubility, but has no effect on pH if your soils require that corr=
ection. It's usually used in soils that have higher pH. The reason it has n=
o effect on pH is because it contains lots of Sulphur. So if your soils are=
low in S and Ca, then it's a good choice. Also if you have a high Na probl=
em, it will help to correct that.
Phosphates at planting to bind sandy soil is a new one on me. Maybe you m=
ean Magnesium. Magnesium should only be added to soils if you need them as =
they tighten your soils and make working them more difficult.
Potassium is good during the season if your plant assay shows your plants=
to be deficient. Then a foliar application is very effective. Especially i=
f
Received on Tue Jun 07 2011 - 03:28:58 EDT
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