Re: [compost_tea] When to add amendments to the soil
The first question is what nutrients does your soil require?
Although lab tests are not always accurate, they are the best we have.
I suggest Logan Labs.
Then, you need to figure out what to do with the results. I suggest M.
Astera's book, The Ideal Soil.
You can add compost all you want, but if your compost lacks the elements
needed to balance your soil, you'll never get the nutrients you want.
Then, add the amendments you need. The easiest way is usually the best
- till in organic fertilizers before planting. Be careful of
overwatering - you'll likely leach the amendments you have added.
You really need to be careful when adding organic fertilizers - more is
not better. You need to figure out exactly what you need, then add the
exact amounts calculated, then re-test next year. I love using foliage
kelp for micronutrients.
IMHO the best bet on biologically activating your soil is after the
minerals are already in place.
My organic fertilizer bill runs about $400 per year for a 3000 sq ft
vegetable garden. I am glad to pay it. It's a bargain. If you want
the best nutrition from your vegetables, you need to be sure the soil is
the best it can be. Good food is healing.
Erica
On 6/4/2011 8:24 AM, Stephen Steyn wrote:
>
> Ian;
>
> P and K are not micro nutrients. Plants (and animals) require these
> nutrient elements in larger quantities. As these elements are already
> in your soils (in all likelihood), your biological additions should
> make these more accessible to your plants over a period of time.
> I.e.: Once your soils are biologically more active. Chicken manure is
> a source you could consider, but if you're a composter, then you
> should be composting it, or composting it and using it in your worm
> bins. The other products can be added to compost too but many of them
> can for ease of work be added straight to the field. For example soft
> rock phosphate, although more soluble that rock phosphate, is still
> not very soluble. So you would need a large quantity and adding it to
> your compost would make your turner work so much harder for little
> added benefit. Feather meal, bone meal, blood meal, fish waste
> products are good sources of phosphates but are too expensive for
> broad scale farming unless you're organic. Cotton seed and soya
> oilcakes are way too expensive, and are best fed to your livestock
> (Assuming you have) rather than tossed on the soil or compost heap --
> unless you are making compost to be used as ACT where it may have a place.
>
> Lime is a slow working amendment and is dependent on microbial action
> as well as acidic conditions for release. Gypsum is a better calcium
> source given its solubility, but has no effect on pH if your soils
> require that correction. It's usually used in soils that have higher
> pH. The reason it has no effect on pH is because it contains lots of
> Sulphur. So if your soils are low in S and Ca, then it's a good
> choice. Also if you have a high Na problem, it will help to correct that.
>
> Phosphates at planting to bind sandy soil is a new one on me. Maybe
> you mean Magnesium. Magnesium should only be added to soils if you
> need them as they tighten your soils and make working them more difficult.
>
> Potassium is good during the season if your plant assay shows your
> plants to be deficient. Then a foliar application is very effective.
> Especially if you have high Na as the Na and K (Potassium) ions are of
> similar size (adjacent on the periodic table) and plants tend to take
> up Na instead of K even in high testing K soils if Na is high.
>
> As you can see, the subject is rather more complex than imagined at
> first blush. Giving blanket recommendations based on the vague
> information you have supplied would more than likely cause more
> confusion than anything else. Your best bet is to use the services of
> an agronomist or plant scientist to apply required amendments and then
> to discuss your biological ideas with them. There must be lots in Zim,
> or in SA.
>
> SS
>
> *From:*compost_tea_at_yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:compost_tea_at_yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *RTS Friction -
> Carruthers
> *Sent:* 02 June 2011 13:49
> *To:* ECO Compost tea
> *Subject:* [compost_tea] When to add ammendments to the soil
>
> Hi all this is slightly off group topic but in the range of what we
> generally try to emulate, there are so many well educated folk on this
> group so am taking the opportunity to glean some of your experiences.
>
> As most of us know, similarly to compost, vermicast is lacking in
> phosphates & potassium (important additions required for optimum plant
> growth). For gardening when is the best time to add these trace
> elements. I'm referring to amendments such as blood & bone meal, dry
> fish, rock phosphate, ash, chicken manure, feather meal, cotton seed &
> Soya cake etc.
>
> 1) Include steadily in the worm feed from the start
>
> 2) Mix into the VC prior to use/application
>
> 3) Mix in directly to the soil before VC application (how long before
> planting)
>
> 4) Or apply weekly in the watering/top dressing
>
> At present I lime directly two weeks before planting, am led to
> believe lime additions directly to Compost can lead to Ammonia (N)
> losses. Presume this would have the same effect in VC, unless of
> course the pH is low and adjustments need to be made. I add phosphates
> at planting to bind my sandy soil and reduce N losses.
>
> I add potassium half way through the growing period to boost flowering
> & fruiting. Am I on the right track?
>
> The conclusive answers to these questions I've failed to find on the
> net, look forward to any advice on this.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ian C
>
>
Received on Tue Jun 14 2011 - 13:46:10 EDT
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