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Re: Fertilizing a 100 years old sugar maple?
Todd M. Bolton <tmbolton@erols.com> wrote in article
<MOD$970927.5713@rec.gardens.ecosystems>...
>
> Don Chapman wrote:
> >
> > Todd M. Bolton <tmbolton@erols.com> wrote in article
> > <MOD$970925.14740@rec.gardens.ecosystems>...
> > >
> > > The arborist is probably correct about nutrient needs of the trees,
but
> > > I would also have a soil test done. Often soil ph will limit hte
amount
> > > of Iron and trace minerals that the tree can get from the soil. In
this
> > > case adjusting the ph, through the addition of lime to make it less
> > > acidic,(the more common problem) or (is it?) aluminum sulfide to
lower
> > > the ph may make these minerals available to the tree. The arborist
> > > should be able to tell you where to get a soil analysis done.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > I'm not sure about this approach for a mature tree. Trying to play
with pH
> > levels on a big scale is risky, and if someone happens to overdo some
> > chemistry the tree may be harmed. The fact that a tree is mature is a
> > pretty good indication that it is reasonably well-suited to the soil
> > conditions.
> >
> > A safer and gentler approach is to use compost as a mulch.
> >
> > I'd also not be inclined to take the advice of an "arborist". I know
quite
> > a few of them, and maybe one in five really knows much about soils.
Most
> > are tree trimmers or removers. Be sure to get a second or third
opinion
> > before pouring chemicals around a valuable old tree.
>
>
> Altering ph is a VERY common practice in any area that has lawns. IOW,
> all of suburban America. Check out the availability of lime and the
> frequency with which it is recomended for use on acidic soils by ag
> extention agents and any other professional dealing with soil
> conditions. I must question your calling pelletized limestone a
> "chemical." That a tree has reached maturity only indicates that the
> previously existing conditions satisfied the needs of the tree. It
> provides NO evidence of current conditions. Increased deposition of
> road salts due to a change in township policy could alter soil
> conditions within 2 years. Acid deposition due to an increase in coal
> fired power plants up wind will also have an impact over the last ten
> years, which is the amount of time it may take for a mineral deficiency
> to become evident. How much compost are you going to be able to
> introduce to a lawn area? What mineral components are going to be in
> that compost? How long will it atke for those minerals to make it inot
> the root zone of the tree? How much of those nutrients will make it
> throught the root zone of the lawn without being taken up by the grass?
>
> Mr. Chapman, And your qualifications are? A vegetable gardener,
> perhaps, who really understands the needs of woody vegetation? An
> arborist is, by definition, someone who specializes in trees. If the
> only arborists you know are wood-chuckers then I suggest you expand your
> horizons, meet some professionals, and lose your prejudice.
>
Easy does it, buckeroo!
I think my basic advice, if you take the time to read it, was:
A. When you're dealing with a valuable old tree, don't leap into soil
chemistry procedures without being REAL sure what you're doing.
B. Don't take the advice of just one person who labels himself an
"arborist". If you knew as many of them as I do, you'd probably understand
a little better why I suggested getting a second or third opinion.
C. If adjustment of the soil is needed, and if it can't be done by the
natural method of maintaining a mulch layer, then one should be very
careful about dosage of any modifying agent (Yes, I should not have used
the word chemical in that context).
Now, what is there about this advice you disagree with? And are you an
aborist, by chance?
--
Don Chapman
Bio/Organics Supply Center
Camarillo CA (Coast N. of LA)
<http://www.bio-organics.com>
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