MIND OVER MATER
This time of year, few things are more important to discuss food-wise than tomatoes. One of them might be cucumbers.
Let’s cut to the chase: Cup your hand and pour a little coarse kosher salt into it until you’ve got about one-sixth cup. Dump that in a bowl. Do the same with some sugar, but make it about a one-fourth cup. Add 1 1/2 cups of white vinegar and 3 cups of water. Add some sliced cucumbers and put in the icebox. Keep doing that all summer until you get it right. Now, let’s talk tomatoes.
Aside from the life rope afforded by the various hothouse varieties we saw this spring, there were very few tomatoes available at local markets until mid-June. Then a trickle of big red standards and Cherokee purples started to flow in. Naturally, they were quickly snatched up, and if you weren’t an early riser you had to hit the Wednesday or Thursday afternoon markets to see any.
Now that trickle is a torrent. We are in full tomato harvest, and if you make it out to one of our local farmers’ markets – and some grocery stores – it’s possible to sample a growing array of heirlooms and specialty varieties. You still want to go early on Saturday or to the afternoon markets to get the best picks.
A snap survey of local tomato fans (and experienced marketeers) puts local favs German Johnsons and Cherokee Purples at the top of the list because of their texture and big flavor. Beefsteak also got a nod, of course, as did Yellow Pear, Ananas Noire, Red Lightening, Early Girl, Better Boy and “big, ugly heirloom.†Our friend Chris Toenes reminds us that one of the finest names for a tomato is the Paul Roberson Heirloom. Margot Lester adds one for the times: Mortgage Lifter.
If you’re in search of nature’s equivalent of a Starburst, the Eater suggests you think small. Nothing beats certain plum and cherry tomatoes in the flavor-packed category. Having a Sun Gold plant or two in a pot on the porch is like having your own summer candy machine.
CORE SOUND
Odd coincidence: Last month’s Eater column included a recollection about riding along in Eddie Willis’ crab boat. Well, shortly thereafter, Gerry Barrett stopped by to talk about his latest venture – a seafood version of a CSA (community supported agriculture) called Core Sound Seafood.
Barrett, formerly a Chathamite, is now a resident of Atlantic on Cedar Island and has been active in environmental and preservation of fisheries causes. He’s teamed up with Willis (who the Eater erringly referred to as the Big Man, when his real nickname is Mr. Biggs) for the effort, which is aimed to help support the centuries-old Core Sound fishing tradition. Core is the cleanest of our coastal sounds.
Prices range from $375.50 for a full 10-week share to $93.75 for a half share for five weeks.
Pickup is on Thursdays at Carrboro Plaza. More at coresoundseafood.org
