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by Jason Cole

Pierre Celis and his legacy
Pierre Celis’ name is relatively unknown to most beer drinkers. His lasting legacy, however, needs no introduction. As we sink deeper into our North Carolina summer, beer drinkers will search for a refreshing, thirst-quenching beer with a delicate flavor. A clean Belgian wheat beer, with its light crisp flavor and clean finish, hits the spot on those humid mid-summer days. If not for Celis, this perfect summer treat would be lost.

In 1950, the last brewery in Celis’ hometown of Hoegaarden shut its door, closing a chapter in the world of brewing. This small region’s specialty was a type of wheat beer using flaked wheat, barley, fruit and spices. The local yeast provided a tart, crisp profile to match the light grain and citrus flavors in the beer. With its light cloudy appearance, the locals called it “wit bier,” or “white beer.” As a boy, Celis worked in a local brewery, and some years after the last brewery closed and the style seemed extinct, he was determined to revive the beers of his homeland. In 1966, he opened a small brewery in his hometown. Recalling what he knew from his youth, Celis created a lasting impression on the beer world, and his beer, Hoegaarden, became a hit.

Sadly, Celis was not as good of a businessman as he was a brewer. After a fire destroyed much of the brewery, the under-insured Celis was forced to find investors. These investors pressured Celis into changes he felt were not in the best interest of the beer, and he sold his shares and let them take over.

Moving to Texas, Celis started a new brewery and a beer called Celis White. Celis was a pioneer for the blossoming craft-beer movement in America. His light, approachable beer won people over and introduced them to a craft, artisanal side of brewing – but yet again, business matters interrupted. Celis’ backers pressured him to make changes, and he again walked away from his beer.
Celis passed away on April 9, 2011. His work revived a lost style and helped a growing American industry find its way. From one beer in 1966 to hundreds of breweries brewing a version of Hoegaarden, the wit beer now is a standard. In North Carolina, we have beers like Weeping Willow Wit from Mother Earth Brewing or Triangle Brewery’s Wit in a can. There is always Hoegaarden, but if you want to try Celis’ recipe, seek out St. Bernardus Wit. This heavenly brew has Celis’ name on it, and it is fantastic.

To pair a dish with a delicate beer such as a Belgian wit, lighter fare is in order. Salads and seafood are a great accompaniment to the citrus-like flavors found in a wit beer. Crab cakes served with lemon and a beer tartar sauce are a great dish for a hot day. Try this recipe with any Belgian-style wit, and raise a toast to Pierre Celis, his beer, his legacy and the never-say-die attitude that brought us a summer quencher. Dank U Pierre!

Tartar Sauce

Ingredients:
1 cup mayonnaise or vegan substitute
¼ cup chopped dill pickles
¼ cup chopped onion
1 teaspoon fresh tarragon, finely chopped
2 tablespoons wit beer

Procedure:
Mix all ingredients together. Chill in refrigerator until ready to serve

Crab Cakes

Ingredients:
(makes about 10 small cakes, or 4-6 servings)
1 pound lump crab, picked
1 small red pepper, finely diced
1 small green pepper, finely diced
1 ear of corn
½ medium red onion, finely diced
2 eggs
1 cup panko
1 small lemon or orange pulp scooped out and chopped in little slivers, no pith (optional)
A few dashes of Tabasco sauce for heat

Procedure:
Sauté the onions, peppers and corn till tender and cool. Combine all of the ingredients together and mix through. Form into small patties. Fry in a skillet with butter, turning once. Cook until golden brown on each side. Arrange two cakes per plate and top with tartar sauce. Serve with a side salad and a Belgian wit beer such as Avery White Rascal, St. Bernardus Wit or Natty Greene’s Wildflower Wit.